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joe_padavano last won the day on March 10

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About joe_padavano

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  1. There were no hydraulics in the 1957-59 Ford retractables. The mechanism was entirely mechanically driven with electric motors, ball screws, and drive cables that look like speedo cables.
  2. The rubberized asphalt product is similar to a material used by GM, so there is precedent. It is also used by hot rodders as a low-buck substitute for a real acoustic barrier layer. Just be aware that while it MAY be an adequate deadener for you, it is not as effective as a multi-layer acoustic barrier. Also, the asphalt can soften and outgas in the sun. Your money, your ears and nose, your call.
  3. X2. This product is routinely used on the backside of door panels with no problems. Get the small wooden roller to press it down securely. The biggest problem with using it in doors is often getting the factory applied spray-on dum-dum off, since that surface is usually too rough for the Dynamat to adhere properly.
  4. There are probably a dozen different vendors of "Dynamat-like" products on the market. They are all basically the same. They are NOT the same as the bubble wrap product. I deal with launch acoustics for space launch vehicles in my real job. The most effective way to kill acoustic transmission is to throw mass at the surfaces that are being excited. These Dynamat-like products have multiple layers of foam and high density viscoelastic material that both increases the mass of the panels and deadens the sound. The multiple layers also help because acoustic transmission changes when density changes and the break between the viscoelastic layer and the foam causes the acoustic waves to be reflected instead of transmitted. The lightweight bubble wrap does none of this. It might help with thermal problems, but not acoustics. Dynamat and others now sell a variety of products with specialized purposes such as thermal insulation or whatever. I have not tried these others.
  5. If your goal is simply to reduce noise and heat, there are a number of products like DynaMat that stick to the interior surface, or spray-on products like Lizard Skin. These don't add any structural benefit, only thermal and acoustic protection. Damping body panel resonances does make the car seem more "solid" however. If you are actually talking about structural reinforcements, then I echo the other comments in this thread: why? Is there some specific deficiency you are trying to correct?
  6. The Oldsmobile style 8.5" axle used from 1971-up is the same as the Chevy axle except for the change from the C-clip axle retention to the pressed-on bearings and retainers for axle retention. The actual differential, gears, pinion bearings, and pinion flange are exactly the same. Only the axle shafts and wheel bearings are different, and this has nothing to do with the OP's pinion seal leak. Yes, this axle uses a crush sleeve. There's a high probability that the crush sleeve is now over-crushed, which means that pinion bearing preload is wrong. Unfortunately, fixing this requires taking the axle completely apart.
  7. I'm guessing "TC" is a Chrysler TC by Maserati. To the OP: why do you "assume" it's a CV joint? The CV joint is probably the least likely part to cause that. Far more likely are ball joints, bushings, hub bearings, tie rod ends, or steering rack. Why guess? Check the front end and steering for wear.
  8. I've shipped five cars cross country in the last seven years. Only one of those ran. Expect to pay twice the original quote by the time the car actually gets picked up. Fees ranged from $900 for the runner to $1800 for the most recent non-runner.
  9. Stop wasting your time. There is only one manual you should consult, this one. Spend the money and get an original paper copy, not a reprint or CD. There were no electronic originals, so any CD, download, or reprint is a copy of an original, and detail is lost in the copy process.
  10. The Calais and Supreme are the same car with different trim levels. It wasn't until the 1985 model year that the Calais became a FWD model.
  11. Yes. The most obvious difference is that Oldsmobiles of that vintage had the headlights further inboard. The Caddy lights were right at the outer edge of the fenders, apparently to clear that very wide grille.
  12. It's the Cadillac of Oldsmobiles - a 1941 Caddy to be exact.
  13. The seller is going to be sadly disappointed
  14. This entirely depends on the asking price. If the price reflects the risk to the buyer, then OK. Otherwise, the car will rot.
  15. I don't disagree with that statement, but I sure didn't get that from your prior post.