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joe_padavano last won the day on October 14 2017

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About joe_padavano

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  1. joe_padavano

    Oddball 4 cylinder engine?!

    First of all, the cylinders aren't "drilled out of the block". The block is cast with openings where the cylinders go. This rough opening is final machined to the finished bore dimension, but the amount of metal removed is on the order of thousandths of an inch. Are you sure that in the darkness, your "not drilled" cylinders were simply two holes with the pistons at top dead center?
  2. joe_padavano

    1938 Olds for sale

    Body style? Condition? Model? I guess the OP could have posted a less informative ad, as he DID at least include the year...
  3. joe_padavano

    Another battery disconnect question

    This is like asking a religion or politics question - or worse, like asking which way the toilet paper should hang off the roll! I look at it this way. If you disconnect the hot side, a tool dropped against the + terminal will still arc to ground. If you disconnect the negative side, that is not a possibility. The latter seems safer to me.
  4. joe_padavano

    1969 Cutlass 350 engine advice

    Understand about the "mightaswells" (which is why my 67 Olds isn't together yet...). A friend of mine just had his 69 F-85 engine replaced by Gunther's Machine in Walkersville, MD. I don't know the cost, but they did nice work. I had all my machine work done by Gunther's also.
  5. joe_padavano

    1969 Cutlass 350 engine advice

    I've owned and built Oldsmobiles for nearly half a century and I've never heard or a spun cam bearing. Unless the cam was excessively tight in the bearing or oil was cut off, I don't know how you'd even do that. $10K sounds really high. I just got through rebuilding an Olds 455 - forged aftermarket pistons, hardened seats, oversize valves, teflon seals, Clevite bearings, custom cam and lifters, roller rockers, roller timing chain, Mellings oil pump and pickup - and I don't have $5K in it with all the machine work. Of course, I did assembly and installation myself. 350 Olds blocks can be had for $100-200.
  6. joe_padavano

    1935 Lincoln power brakes

    So per the writeup in Post #4, Matt's first photo is the Regulator Valve and his second photo is the Automatic Control Valve. The Regulator Valve allows the operator to select the amount of "power" in the power brakes (25%, 50%, 75%, or 100%). The Automatic Control Valve is what routes vacuum to the booster when the pedal is depressed. I'm willing to bet that the nut you see on the Automatic Control Valve isn't fastening the brake rod, it's likely a packing nut holding a packing seal in place around the rod.
  7. joe_padavano

    Hirsch vs Por15 gas tank sealer

    I've had good results with KBS Coatings version, but frankly, these products are all pretty much the same chemically.
  8. I don't know who "they" are, but Summit Racing (as only one example) sells clamps for 3/8" ID hose for $3 for a set of four. Sets to fit 1/4" and 5/16" hose are similarly priced.
  9. joe_padavano

    Chevy Dipstick Questions

    This isn't a normal wear item. Local parts stores won't stock them. On the other hand, this is a small block Chevy. EVERYONE sells parts for these. Check repro parts vendors like LMC Truck, Brothers Trucks, Classic Industries, etc, etc.
  10. joe_padavano

    Amusing vehicle advertisement

    There is no upside to engaging a seller such as this. This is yet another example of wrestling with a pig. All you'll do is waste time and aggravate yourself.
  11. Here is yet another example of why it is not a good idea to provide technical information when one does not fully understand the particular car being asked about (and I put myself in that group, by the way). A little research shows that the 1977 Seville has TWO electric fuel pumps, a low pressure boost pump in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame rail. The line that the OP has replaced is a LOW PRESSURE line - about 15 PSI - from the boost pump to the high pressure pump. The fuel line and clamps he has used will be more than adequate for that application. This, by the way, is why the OP correctly pointed out that the old hoses were comparable to the new low pressure hose. Problem solved.
  12. I'm pretty sure that was written by corporate lawyers who have no clue as to the difference between a 15 PSI throttle body injection system, a 50 PSI port injection system, or a 3,000 PSI direct injection system. Of course, this whole diversion is irrelevant to the OP's car, since that Seville is NOT a throttle body injection system.
  13. Until the added wall stiffness of the tube wall prevents the clamp from tightening properly on the barb fitting. Proper systems engineering seeks to ensure that ALL parts of a system are matched for an application. Selectively "upgrading" one part without properly accounting for it elsewhere is not necessarily a system upgrade. How many disk brake conversion threads on this forum have pointed that out?
  14. The hose neither knows nor cares if the car is EFI or not. All it cares about is operating pressure. GM's Throttle Body Injection systems operated at 15 PSI. "Standard" fuel hose is SAE 30R7, which is rated at 50 PSI for diameters up to 3/8" and 35 PSI over that. This is more than adequate for TBI systems at 15 PSI. 30R9 is rated at 180 PSI and 300 degrees. That's overkill for 15 PSI.
  15. That car is NOT throttle body injection. TBI systems used only 15 psi and regular hose would be fine. Your PORT injection is higher pressure and needs EFI hose.