Rivman

Members
  • Content Count

    750
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

351 Excellent

About Rivman

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/99Rivman

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

2,876 profile views
  1. I know this conversation does not belong here, but I’ll reply one more time anyway. Everything you say is all fine and good in theory, and yes, there are a lot of Rivieras misrepresented at ROA meets, that’s for sure. But, I guess only someone that is concerned with EVERY tiny detail, and, their main goal is to win an award, would complain? It is supposed to be a “fun” day at the show at an ROA meet, however, when one-member requests his car to be in the “Original” class, and another member complains, very loud complaints from what I understand, so the first member is moved to the “modified” class to appease the complaining member. Does what you say above mean the member that requested to be in a certain class stays there, and the complaining member is told to just stop complaining? OR, does this “judging committee” you mention, not sure exactly who that might be, put the car where the complaining member feels it “should” be, and then the member that asked for a certain class is the unhappy member? I guess requesting a certain class would be great in a perfect world, however, even in the ROA, there are complainers, that just can’t leave things alone and let everyone have a good time and enjoy themselves.
  2. I was quoting the Riviera Owners Association "Car Show Guidelines" more than any of the other automobile clubs "Judging Guidelines."
  3. Nah, don't have them contact me, I can only speak about the years that I own, the ones that I can verify info locations. I am no expert, that's for sure, I just only post what I can verify as correct.
  4. Looks Great Steve, Congratulations! I am guessing this would be one for the CUSTOM Class? I'm thinking a change like that would "be difficult and expensive to convert back to stock." Not that anyone would want to, to be sure, just sayin'
  5. Thanks for posting it on FB Kevin, and great members showcase article in the latest Riview too. I have the meet info posted above, in the pinned threads, with links to the fillable PDF registration form included in that post. But, thanks for putting it on FB, I'm pretty sure it is already there, maybe not a complete as you posted though.
  6. I wasn’t going to comment here since the question was about a ’68 and I figured someone, like Mike, with a ’68 would be able to answer Valtalma’s question best. However, since you asked Ed, and just to let you know, a good bit of the info you posted above is incorrect. I understand you were just posting info you found, but it doesn’t help if the info is wrong. Their statements below both of the first two pictures, actually the first three, is incorrect, they say “production code” between the “forward branches”, and it is actually between the rear branches. And, the second picture says 1968-72, and that is wrong. In late ’71 the VIN location changed, and in ’72 it changed again. I can’t say when the changes were made, but for ’71 the VIN is stamped on the front of the block, below the head, behind the P/S pump bracket. Then for ’72 it is where it is shown in your last picture, beside the water pump on the passenger side. They say 1973 and up, but that is where it is on my ’72. Just thought I would let you know Ed, since you seemed to be wondering. Sorry to hijack the thread.
  7. For cleaning, Tom's suggestion above is probably the best way to go, turpentine and very fine steel wool. If you want to either clean or polish them on the car you can protect the paint around them with masking or painters tape. If I'm doing any of that near a painted surface I use 2" tape, at least two layers, and tape around whatever I'm working on with that to protect it. If 2" isn't enough, or you want more protection, go out further with the tape. You will still need to be careful doing them on the car, but that would be one way to do it.
  8. I have five Rivs on my Hagerty policy, ranging from '65 to '99. They do insure for agreed value, as Ken said, and obviously the higher the value the higher the price. One of my '65s is covered for $15K and one is covered for $25K, they did ask how much I paid for that one, it was less than that, but they covered it for the value I put on it anyway. One thing you need to verify with them is the miles allowed per year on your policy. They were going to set mine lower than I wanted it, but they adjusted that on my request. None of mine get a lot of miles, I just wanted to be sure I would not exceed what was on the policy. I can't say anything about their service for certain, the only dealings I've had with them is paying my bill so far, but from what I have heard they are a reliable classic car insurance company. HTH
  9. If you joined the Riviera Owners Association, as I'm sure has been recommended, and if not I'll recommend it now, the latest issue of the Riview, Nov/Dec 2018, has a GREAT article about "Stainless Trim Polishing." Another very informative and thorough contribution from the desk of MR JZRIV!
  10. Sorry Steve, I can't say I have any experience with them, BUT, I do think they look great! Hopefully Kevin will chime in and tell you what you want/need to know.
  11. Do you mean the trip reset knob beside the vent lever above?
  12. How is the left front fender on the '65? I am in need of one that is as rust free and straight as possible, can you help? Let me know,
  13. I figured a picture is worth a thousand words, as they say, and, you could see the dimensions for yourself.
  14. I guess my newest addition has come in handy, for you anyway Tom. Looks to be six pins, around 5 to 5 1/4" long, and around 2 1/2" tall. Let me know if this is what you're looking for … Hope that helps.