Gary_Ash

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About Gary_Ash

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    http://www.studegarage.com

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    SouthCoast, Massachusetts

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  1. Twenty years ago when I got my Studebaker M5 pickup, there was a small bumper mounted on the rear. Since rear bumpers weren't standard on '48 pickups, someone adapted another bumper to the task. The bumper is still here, but needs a new home, if anyone can use it - free plus shipping. It's 64 inches wide, 4 inches high, and has curved, tapered ends. Rusted but pretty straight. The bracket extensions aren't original, as someone tried to weld them on to the spring steel brackets and learned that spring steel cracks when welded. I don't remember seeing anything like this on a car. Could it have come on a small European car of the 1940s-50s? It's yours for the asking.
  2. I stumbled across this Ebay listing for a "Presidential". It was listed with a starting bid of $1. Looks like someone got started restoring a car and just stopped. See Ebay item 163053920316
  3. Gary_Ash

    Mass. YOM plates and new inspection rules

    Yes, the proposed rule change for cars 75 years old or more will be a good start. However, my 1965, 1963, and 1948 vehicles don't qualify. The good news is that I got a couple of confirming replies from the Mass. RMV, the Mass. Vehicle Check Program, and from Applus+ Technologies, the supplier of the new test equipment. Good Morning Mr. Ash, Thank you for contacting MA Vehicle Check Program. My apologies to you for your recent experience. The Inspector should follow the following guidelines. The following is from the RMV’s Application for an Antique Vehicle Plate: “ Year of Manufacture plate must be displayed pursuant to Chapter 90, Section 6 of the General Laws but the registration decal for the current registration period need not be attached to the plate. If it is not attached to the plate it must be carried in the antique vehicle at all times and presented at the request of a Police Officer.” If you have any other questions, please contact us at 1.844.358.0135 or Info@massvehiclecheck2017.com Sincerely, Massachusetts Vehicle Check Program *********************************************************************************** Here is the info from Applus+ Tech with a cell phone number and a name to contact in the event anyone else encounters this. Hi Gary In this case you are correct the decal needs to be with the registration but not adhered to the year-of-manufacture license plate. The Inspector would most likely not know this exception to their plate inspection. If it helps, please return for an inspection and ask the Inspector to call me Cell phone 617 549-2831 “ Year of Manufacture plate must be displayed pursuant to Chapter 90, Section 6 of the General Laws but the registration decal for the current registration period need not be attached to the plate. If it is not attached to the plate it must be carried in the antique vehicle at all times and presented at the request of a Police Officer.” John Morrissey Massachusetts Vehicle ü Program Applus+ Technologies Inc. Office: (508) 452-8520 John.morrissey@applustech.com
  4. Gary_Ash

    Mass. YOM plates and new inspection rules

    I sent them an email, waiting for reply. I called the RMV, got transferred three times, eventually told to speak to someone in the Special Plates section, 857-368-8031. My call was transferred there but all I got was a voice message saying, "This mailbox is full and cannot accept new messages." I've called back three times, same message. Great service, huh?
  5. I took my 1965 Studebaker Wagonaire to a Massachusetts inspection station for its required annual check. It has a Year of Manufacture plate on it. Published Mass. RMV regulations say that the annual sticker for the license plate need NOT be attached to a YOM plate, as long as it is carried in the car. The inspection station refused to inspect the car without the sticker attached, claiming the new inspection equipment requires scanning the plate to show the sticker. I tried to show them the YOM rules, but they said the new inspection rules overrode what RMV had published and that I would need a written waiver from the RMV to get an inspection without the sticker on the plate. Boy, were they rude! Left with no alternatives, I gently put the sticker on the plate, got the inspection, then used the heat gun to remove it when I got home. When I took my 1948 Studebaker truck in this week, I put some new Scotch Wall Safe tape (easy to remove) on the plate first, then applied the sticker - temporarily. Mass. RMV rules here: https://www.massrmv.com/Portals/30/docs/20132.pdf Has anyone else had this experience? Alternate solutions? Getting hold of someone at the RMV who actually understands the rules for antique and YOM plates is very difficult. Grrrr!
  6. Gary_Ash

    1929 Studebaker flat Head 8 Or a motor

    Through 1932, the spark plugs Studebaker used were Champion #2 with 7/8-18 threads. From 1933 on, they used 18 mm threads on Champion 8A or 7A plugs. The advent of 18 mm metric thread plugs about 1933 may have been due to the development of aluminum silicate ceramics for spark plugs, mostly in Europe, and a better understanding of heat ranges. I'm not sure if it means much, but Albert Champion (AC) was French, probably biased toward metric. Fortunately, new spark plugs with either 7/8-18 or 18 mm threads are still available.. Lots of discussion of plugs on this older thread:
  7. Gary_Ash

    1929 Studebaker flat Head 8 Or a motor

    Perhaps you could be a bit more specific. What is the casting number on the head you have now - and what's wrong with it? Posting a photo helps. Looking at the 1929-40 parts catalog, the same head gasket (167033) is used on 1929-33 Dictators and Commanders, as well as 1933 President Model 82. All had 3-1/16" bore. So, the heads should interchange, though they will have different compression ratios ranging from about 5 to 6.5. Water fittings might be a little different. Spark plug holes are metric on the later heads. Candidate head numbers are: 167339 standard compression on 1929-32 Dictators 168314 high compression for 1929-32 Dictators 167032 standard compression for 1929-32 Commanders 168022 5.5 compression for 1929-32 Commanders 168411 6.5 compression for 1929-32 Commanders 177920 standard compression for 1933 Commanders 179877 high compression for 1933 Commanders 177918 standard compression on 1933 Model 82 Presidents 179878 high compression on 1933 Model 82 Presidents Usually, the Studebaker part number for flat heads is the same as the casting number that appears on the head.
  8. Yes, Spinneyhill, they all had to be skinny - the seats were only 16 inches wide. The driver's seat is actually 5 inches forward of the mechanic's seat to allow for elbow room for the driver.
  9. P.S. Here are some photos of the guys who didn't have initials on their sweaters to help match them up.
  10. Here is a photo of nine guys on the Studebaker Indy team, apparently just after the 1933 Indy race ended. Each car had a driver and riding mechanic, so there should have been ten guys, but only nine are in this photo. Fortunately seven of the nine are wearing their Studebaker shirts with their initials, so they are easy to identify. I'd like to pin down who the other two are and name the missing guy. Here are my nominal identifications, left to right: AG = Anthony "Tony" Gulotta, driver #34 JL = Jimmie Lowden, mechanic #47 CB = Cliff Bergere, driver #6 ? = possibly Luther Johnson, driver #46 WT = William Tucker, mechanic #46 ? = possibly L. L. Corum, driver #47 VL = Vern Lake, mechanic #6 WM = Walter Mitchell, mechanic #9 ZM = Zeke Meyer, driver #9 missing = Carl Riscigno, mechanic #34 Those are the names of the ten guys who took part in the 1933 race. The questions are really which one is missing and which are the two guys without initials on their shirts. All the photos of the cars in 1933 show these guys with their cloth racing helmets, so it's tough to pin them down. What do you think?
  11. Gary_Ash

    1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    I'm trying to get some more work done on the body at home. Based on Wray's comments that the main anvil wheel of an English wheel should be well-centered and polished, I put a dial indicator on the frame of the HF English wheel and found it to be out by about 0.010 inch. The small wheels were pretty good, mostly around 0.001 to 0.002 inch. I hauled the big wheel over to my local machine shop where they used a ceramic insert bit to true it up and polish it some. It still needs more polish and I should probably grind off the edges so the wheel doesn't mark crowned panels. With the base of the dial indicator on the bottom part of the frame and the tip on the anvil mount on the top part of the frame, I measured deflections of 0.010" to 0.030" when wheeling some 0.050" aluinum. depending on how much pressure I dialed into the lower wheel. This is supposed to be OK as long as there is enough pressure to move the metal around. While Wray has a couple of big ruffling machines he built for shrinking, a stump and big mallet will also work. We lost a lot of trees during the March snow storms, so I pulled a 16 inch tall hunk of a maple trunk out of the pile of sawed wood. I had planned to use a longer piece that had been at the base of the trunk, but it was so heavy I didn't want to move it now or later. I took the smaller piece and cut a bowl in it with a 7.25 inch circular saw. I had seen photos on-line of people making a bunch of saw cuts and chiseling out the wood. It would have taken days to chisel the bowl and smooth it, so I just kept at it with the circular saw until most of the wood was out, then used my angle grinder/sander to work through various grades of paper - 24 to 50 to 80 to 100 to 150. Now the bowl is mostly smooth. Since I'm going to bash metal into it with a mallet, I didn't think it had to be perfectly polished. I bashed and wheeled a small piece of aluminum as a test, got satisfactory results, but will give the wheel a better polish. It struck me that, as I approach being finished with the body, buying and making all these tools for sheet metal fabrication is a little like the old military guys who prepared to fight the last war all over again, like building the Maginot line or stocking up on jungle boots before the Iraq war. I'll have all this stuff in the garage but it isn't likely to get used again - and I'm NOT building a body for anyone else!
  12. Gary_Ash

    3D Parts Printing

    I've used Shapeways.com and Imaterialise.com to make parts in several plastic materials and also type 420 stainless steel infused with bronze. The stainless parts were strong enough for static use, e.g. clamps or door handles, but Imaterialise referred me to their industrial division for parts with higher strength and less brittleness for automotive use in dynamic applications which might be subject to impact and shock. Their laser-sintered 316L stainless steel closely approaches all the mechanical properties of billet stock. I have not had anything made by the industrial division yet. Currently, they can print things up to 10x10x11 inches. Here's the link to the industrial division: http://www.materialise.com/en/manufacturing/materialise-onsite Here's the consumer division: https://i.materialise.com/en Yes, if you want to make more than a few parts, it's probably cheaper to make a pattern in plastic or wood and have a foundry cast multiple parts. Been there, done that. However, there are parts that would require a lot of finish machining or things that cannot be cast because of re-entrant surfaces, holes, etc. where 3D printing really is the answer to a maiden's prayer. Recently, I visited a large, well-equipped facility for prepping international rally cars. They had a large, expensive 3D printer for carbon fiber that was used for making jigs and fixtures for accurately aligning parts before welding, but it also turned out complete door skins, fenders, and front end skin in carbon fiber - light, strong, flexible. Not cheap, but really good and just right for the application. The photo of the Klein bottle opener (not by me) with varying hex-shaped holes is an example of something that would be extremely difficult to make except by 3D printing. Here are some photos of a small part printed in white acrylic that was used to create silicone rubber molds for wax replicas to investment cast some carb linkage arms in silicon bronze which were then slit, drilled, and tapped. The arms are about 2.25 x 0.5 x .125 inch, plus thicker hub. Also, there is a photo of the 1.5" long stainless parts directly printed by the consumer/hobby part of Imaterialise. For 8-10 pieces, it was cheaper and faster to 3D print them than to pay the set-up charges at the foundry and wait for the parts to get cast. The whole 3D printing industry is moving so fast that it doesn't make sense to buy your own printer unless you just want to play with the technology.
  13. Gary_Ash

    1940 President rear springs

    Try Eaton Detroit. They have drawings for most old springs. Good quality, fair prices. Triangle Spring can also make them.
  14. Come to southern New England in early June and tour Plimoth Plantation and the center of Plymouth, home to Plymouth Rock. Yes, Plymouth Rock is just a rock, but in 1620 the Pilgrims stepped on that rock, or at least that’s the story we have all been told. We’ll also give you a taste of Cape Cod with a visit to Sandwich, the oldest settled town on the Cape, where we'll visit the Heritage Museum and Gardens and its current exhibit of vintage Indy cars. Where did the Pilgrims go to when the next generation needed more land for homes and farms? They went west from Plymouth, for a few miles. They settled in Olde Dartmouth in 1650, and we’re going to visit the towns that comprised Olde Dartmouth: Dartmouth, Westport, New Bedford, Fairhaven, and Acushnet. In those early days of European settlement, Massachusetts included parts of eastern Rhode Island, so we’ll take the road to Rhode Island and drive through Little Compton and Tiverton on our way to Bristol. Along the way each day, you'll see rural farms, tidal rivers, Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod Bay, the Cape Cod Canal, the fishing fleet in New Bedford harbor, and a little of the urban scene. We’re not going to Newport, because traffic and parking aren’t conducive to taking 50 antique cars there as a group, so we’ll visit Blithewold Mansion in Bristol, RI for a mansion with easy parking. You can get your mansion tour without having to go to Newport. The view of Narragansett Bay from the sloping lawns and formal gardens of Blithewold is breathtaking. Come visit these places in southeastern New England you’ve heard of but haven’t yet seen, and find Pilgrims, Presidents, and even King Philip, on this tour celebrating our heritage. Cars permitted have been expanded to 1960 and earlier. We have spaces for 50 cars, currently have 35 registered. There will be 60-100 miles a day of driving, returning to the host hotel each afternoon. Time for registration is short, so send in your application form. VMCCA is the Vintage Motor Car Club of America, formerly known as the Veteran Motor Car Club of America. The club offers many tours each year all over the country. Many AACA members have also joined VMCCA. General tour info here: http://www.vmcca.org/2018-heritage-tour-westport-mass/ Hotel info, prices and registration form here: http://www.vmcca.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Heritage18F2.pdf. Repeat, you can now bring cars 1960 and earlier. If you have questions that aren't answered by the above links, contact Jane Ash via email at jane@studegarage.com.
  15. I think the pace cars were a 1978 Corvette and a 2016 Camaro. Not particularly exciting to me.