• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

45 Excellent


About Gary_Ash

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    SouthCoast, Massachusetts
  1. Want to buy Jaguar E splined front hubs

    Try MWS International in the UK for hubs and wheels. Nice people, good quality, good service. I've been to their shop near Heathrow Airport, bought custom wire wheels from them. Their pages for 52mm hubs start here: You can get the correct knock-off spinners, too.
  2. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Mark: Yes, I'd remembered it was an Australia-only wood, forgot about the silky oak. Maybe it was the bunyah pine cone that fell on my head! So, does Bernie's car also have silky oak door frames?
  3. disc coupling pattern

    Ken: If those are the 43311 coupling disks, could I get four of them from you, please?
  4. Supercharged Packard

    SaddleRider, I think you missed the point of my "modest proposal" - it was meant to be humorous, an intellectual exercise. This is supposed to be about fun with cars. However, as the web link showed, someone had already taken the bait a few years before and actually constructed a Packard-powered car to emulate the 1930s Indy cars. In those years, stock block engines up to 366 cubic inch displacement were allowed (without superchargers), so the Packards could have been used. While the factory might not have supported such an effort, nothing would have prevented a private owner/builder from doing so, as people like Russ Snowberger and Phil Shafer did with Studebaker and Buick engines. Hudson and Chrysler engines were also used. That is not to say that they didn't get a little "out the back door" factory support, but not officially. My statement about the suspensions was that speeds with superchargers would quickly be "BEYOND where a 1930s suspension was comfortable and half-safe." Yes, it is truly scary to drive old solid front axle cars with leaf springs and lousy shocks much over 60 mph. But, lots of people have done it, and many of them lived to tell the tale. As for stroke/bore ratios, see the table below for some engines that ran at Indy in the 1930s plus a 1951 Packard straight 8, such as would have been used in a Mexican Road Race car. For all of those big straight 8s, the stroke/bore ratio is very similar and much higher than engines today. It is true that the Studebaker engines (at least) had modern-style insert shell bearings , not poured babbitt. The Studebaker Indy cars used stock 1928 Studebaker Commander (model GB or EW) rear axles with 3.08 ratios; both 3.31 and 3.08 were available on the smaller roadsters and sedans using the older slow-turning six-cylinder engines. A 1932 Packard sedan with 7.00-17 tires and 4.5 rear axle would be turning about 2870 rpm at 60 mph. 1932-1933 ENGINES, 8 cyl BORE STROKE Stroke/Bore Stock Compression Packard 282 (1936) 3.25 4.25 1.31 6.5 Packard 320 (1932) 3.19 5.00 1.57 6.0 Packard 356 (1951) 3.50 4.63 1.32 7.0 Studebaker 337 3.50 4.38 1.25 6.0 Studebaker 250 3.06 4.25 1.39 6.5 Hudson 254 3.00 4.50 1.50 5.8 Buick 345 3.31 5.00 1.51 4.4-4.8 Chrysler 299 3.25 4.50 1.38 5.2 Still, an old 1930s sedan with a blower could provide a lot of driving fun - not Indy racing, but great for cruising the road and maybe surprising a few youngsters in their "tuner" cars at a stoplight. I'd love to hear comments from the guy that actually owns the supercharged 1936 Packard.
  5. Supercharged Packard

    What we need is someone to build a Packard-powered race car with a blower. Maybe one of the other Speedster thread members would like to try a hand at it and report back with the results. Maybe this one? Studebaker straight 8 engines of 250 and 337 cubic inches were used at Indianapolis during the 1930s with excellent reliability records. They would have been turning 4000 rpm or so and pumping out 200 hp for hours on end. It was claimed - though perhaps never verified absolutely - that they used stock engine blocks, pistons, rods, valves, etc. Surely a Packard ought to be able to do the same. I note, however, that after the Packard Twin Six ran at Indy in 1919, I don't see any references to later cars using Packard engines. There were some straight 8 Packards that ran in the Mexican Road Race in the 1950s. Actually, for putting one of those centrifugal superchargers in a vintage sedan or roadster, I doubt it would have a major negative effect on engine life, assuming one started with an engine in good shape. In most street driving, a 10 or 20 second run-up through the gears at full throttle would have you well beyond legal road speeds - and beyond where a 1930s suspension is comfortable and half-safe. It would be difficult to put on enough hours at high rpm/power to wear out anything. At cruising speeds, the engine wouldn't be wound up that tight. Unless, of course, you decided to drive across Nevada at top speed some night...
  6. Supercharged Packard

    I used my ancient Dyno 2000 engine software to model the Packard 120 engine with and without supercharging. I found most of the Packard engine dimensions (bore, stroke, cam, compression, etc.) but I don't know what the airflow rating of a Stromberg EE14 is. I tried a couple of values for airflow and at about 200 cfm, the peak output of 124 hp and ~200 lb-ft of torque is about what the Packard 120 produced. I think the dual-throat EE14 is a little better than that, but the stock manifold would not have been too great. The graph below compares the two cases. Adding 3 psi of boost changes things dramatically. Now the hp gets to ~200 at 4000 rpm and the torque is at 300 lb-ft. I did boost the flow to 250 cfm since it would make sense to add a larger carb. These numbers may not be exact, but they do illustrate the benefits of even mild boost, especially on an older flathead engine with poor breathing. The Dyno 2000 software runs on Windows XP so I have to have a "virtual machine" with XP installed inside of my big Windows 10 desktop. The software wasn't really designed to model low performance flathead engines, but works OK. McCulloch was making centrifugal blowers in 1937 for Ford V8s (221 cubic inches). Would one of those be large enough for a 282 cubic inch Packard?
  7. I just posted some info about getting things from the Studebaker National Museum in the "Early 1920s Studebaker" thread here. Your best bet is to find the correct part number in a Parts Catalog and email the museum to get a copy of the drawing. They will send a paper copy in actual size to you but will not send a PDF or computer image file since search and copy fees serve to support the museum. Since very few other car brands offer this service, it's a bargain at any price. Always explain your purpose as they may have to drill down several levels (or go up a few levels) to get the info you need. Frequently, there are drawings for raw castings, drawings of the machined part, and drawings of an assembly with several parts. At the Studebaker National Museum, Andy Beckman is the archivist. While he is an dedicated Studebaker guy, I don't think he actively monitors this forum. However, he usually responds to email requests in a day or so. His direct email is abeckman (at) studebakermuseum dot org. Here is the page about services from the Archives. They do have 70 tons of original Studebaker drawings for almost any part you can think of.
  8. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    At the Studebaker National Museum, Andy Beckman is the archivist. While he is an dedicated Studebaker guy, I don't think he actively monitors this forum. However, he usually responds to email requests in a day or so. His direct email is abeckman (at) studebakermuseum dot org. Here is the page about services from the Archives. They do have 70 tons of original Studebaker drawings for almost any part you can think of.
  9. The 1936-37 cars and the early M5 trucks (1941-46) used Insulator, transmission case support #188262. The 1938-39 cars show p/n 191884, but nothing is shown for 1940 cars (section E-10 in the 1928-40 parts catalog). I put an early T86-1D overdrive transmission in my 1948 M5 truck, had to make the cross member and the support. I bent the support out of flat bar and used Pliobond adhesive to attach the rubber to the support. It's still in place after driving the truck for 13 years. I'm not sure what they did for a support in 1940, but it's likely that the cross member and support were not really needed anyway. Having 4 support points along the length of the transmission and overdrive unit doesn't really work. Here is a drawing for the 188262 support and for the M5 crossmember. I have no idea how the 191884 support is different, but one could always get the drawing from the Studebaker Museum. Click on the PDF link below to see the part and how to make it. 188262_cradle_dwg.pdf
  10. Yes, you need both the lower and upper parts, plus the interior steel tube in order for the vibration isolator to work correctly. There should be a shallow cup on one of the crossmember or engine mount surfaces - the big donut goes in there with the steel ring centered by the cup. The steel tube slides down the middle and the small donut goes on the opposite side of the engine mount. There are usually large washers that go against the rubber surfaces before the nut goes on. Tighten it down a little but don't squish the assembly flat - the rubber wants to be able to move. Don't forget the cotter pin. Those isolators were invented by Kurt Saurer, who worked for Firestone for many years, amassing more than 50 patents. He was a Swiss guy whose family had the Saurer truck business that later merged with Mack. Studebaker used the same rubber isolator in the pickup trucks using the 245 engine right up until 1960. In some Studebaker vehicles, the positions of the parts were reversed, but the principle is the same. The two rubber parts function to absorb vibration going up or down and the inner steel tube acts as damper. Here's Kurt below. Click on the PDF link below to see the patent description and diagrams. Click the PDF link below this to see Kurt's patent for this isolator: engine mount patent US1977896.pdf
  11. Gee, Jerry, I made 50 pairs of reproductions of these in investment cast 316 stainless steel - never needed chroming. Unfortunately, I sold the last pair this year. It took 10 years to sell the ones I made, not sure I can live long enough to sell out another run, and the costs have gone up a lot. Tell me how badly you need bumper guards. It's possible that someone who bought one or more sets will never use them, but we'd have to find that person. Check with Chuck Collins.
  12. Damien: You say that the 1930 engine with serial number S13775 doesn't fit your car. But, what is it about that engine that causes the problem? Does the transmission not fit the bell housing? Are the motor mounts in the wrong place? This should be a problem that can be solved easier than shipping another engine to Australia.
  13. Houk Wire Wheel # number question

    Here are the dimensions for the Rudge-Whitworth hubs. This image is from an article by Alec Ulmann in the July-Aug 1974 edition of the VMCCA magazine The Bulb Horn. The Rudge sizes refer to the diameter in mm of the largest bearing that can be used in the hub (approximately). Most of the British sports cars (MG, Triumph, Austin Healey, Jaguar, etc.) used 42mm and 52mm hubs. Note that the "D1" dimension for the 32mm hub size seems to be a typo - it can't be smaller than the I.D. Unfortunately, I have never found a chart describing the dimensions of the mating spinners for these knock-off hubs, nor a general set of dimensions for the wheel centers. The Rudge spinners need a 10 degree tapered surface to lock tightly with the wheel centers. Finding a shop that will make hubs from 4140 steel and cut the splines is a challenge. Be sure to have a wheel center handy so the shop can be sure the wheels fit on the hubs. Google U.S. patent 1,047,702 from 1912 for the original Rudge wheels. The Houk and Dayton wheels seem to have simpler mating schemes. I did find a patent issued to Wire Wheel Corporation of America, the later name of Houk Manufacturing, filed in 1916. Google U.S. patent 1,313,976 issued to Charles Ash (amazing! - but no relation to me) and assigned to Wire Wheel Corp. to see some details. Also, here is an old ad for Houk wheels that shows some dimensions for sizes 3 through 6 but makes no reference to sizes 1 and 2.
  14. Colored Pre-War Photos

    Those are great photos, love to see more of them. Probably Kodachrome (1935-2009) - the best film ever! I still have my Kodak Flash Bantam folding pocket camera that used 828 roll film, paper-backed 35 mm Kodachrome unperforated stock, that made 40 mm x 28 mm images, much bigger than standard 24 mm x 36 mm film used in "35 mm" cameras. The 828 images have the equivalent of about 200 megapixels, so the images can be greatly enlarged. I still have lots of Kodachrome slides that have not faded, even after all these years. They even show my hair as reddish-brown, not like the gray color I get with digital cameras now. Mama, don't take my Kodachrome away!
  15. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Bernie: Your hubcaps look like they have two flats, not the usual hexagon or octagon shape. Try Google Images for "smooth jaw wrench" to see some options for large adjustable wrenches/spanners that you can buy at a local plumbing supply store. For the ones sold here in the U.S., the smaller Reed adjustable hex wrench is good for 2-5/8" (66 mm) and the larger ones for 4.5" (114 mm). It's hard to tell the size of your caps from the photo. Bring a large dead blow hammer as a persuader. Once you get the car home, you may want to have a steel shop cut a special spanner from 10-12 mm steel plate. Meanwhile, can you just inject some "Slime" into the old tube to seal it up enough to get the car on the trailer? See Surely, they have Slime-like stuff in Melbourne at autoObarn, etc. Try this: