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About Gary_Ash

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  1. For the early GE cars, the Budd-style front hubs and drums were 127834 (right) and 127835 (left); the rear ones are 127840 (r) and 127841 (l). The hubs/drums that fit the later Kelsey-Hayes wheels are 128830 in front (both sides) and 128231 in back (both sides). Note that these are the Studebaker part numbers as Budd and Kelsey-Hayes probably supplied only the wheels. I don't know if there are any stamped or cast numbers on the parts to confirm what you might be looking at when you find some. Just remember that the Budd-style has 9/16-18 studs and the Kelsey-Hayes style has 1/2-20 studs. The drums used on the Budd-style hubs are the same front and rear, 127838. For the Kelsey-Hayes style drums the fronts are 128400 and the rears are 128401 - probably different number/size of holes in drum. The studs are probably swaged on to keep the drums firmly attached to the hubs, so a swage cutter has to be used to remove them from a hub without damaging things, if you need to swap a drum.
  2. Yes, there were stamped steel disk wheels that fit the Budd hubs/drums in 1928. These were 20x4, as were the rims for wood wheels and wire wheels. Part number is 150912. Order from your local Studebaker dealer. While it would not be a good idea to drive around on wheels with loose or rotten spokes, the wood wheels should be just fine for as fast as one would want to drive a Dictator GE. When Peter Gillespie drove his well-prepped 1929 President in the Peking-to-Paris race a few years back, the biggest problem he had was continually breaking the wire spokes on the rough roads - or no roads - they encountered. Try finding a guy to re-weld your Studebaker wire wheels in the outback of Mongolia! I think those wood spoke wheels were pretty tough, made by a company that had built wagons and wood-wheeled cars for 75 years before the time of the Dictator GE.
  3. The 1928-40 6-cylinder parts catalog lists the various parts for wood wheels and wire wheels used on the 1928 GE model. As the OP asked, if you can find the hubs and brake drums for a wire wheel car, you should be able to swap those onto the front spindles and rear axle you have. The book lists the same brake backing plate, shoes, steering knuckles, bearing cups, and bearing cones as being used for both types of wheels. Before car 1,437,601, Budd hubs and wheels were used and there is a part number for left and right with 9/16-18 studs (left and right-hand threads). Later cars used Kelsey-Hayes hubs with 1/2-20 studs, same on each side, so you can't mix Budd and Kelsey-Hayes parts. The later GJ and GL cars used different parts, so maybe only the GE parts will fit. Happy hunting!
  4. See PM about axle and brakes.
  5. 1920 Cadillac starter/generator bakelite coupling

    It's probably made of canvas or linen phenolic - sheets of cotton fabric impregnated with phenolic resin and cured. I'm not sure why they would have used a rigid plastic-like material instead of a flexible rubber/fiber sheet or belt. If you want a new one like the old one, get some grade L or LE phenolic from McMaster-Carr or MSC. The L/LE grade is just a little more expensive than the C/CE grade but LE can be machined to close tolerances with a smoother finish. A 12"x12"x1/4" sheet is about $25, available in multiples of 1/16" thickness. It machines easily but is stinky. Take your old part and the new phenolic sheet to any machine shop and they can make a new one for you. It would help to bring the mating metal coupling so they can get the hole spacing exactly right. If you're handy with a jigsaw and drill, you can make it yourself. See
  6. Headlight Resilvering - Who does it?

    For 60FlatTop, here are a couple of YouTube videos about putting aluminum on the Discovery Channel telescope. It's basically the same process for doing old headlight reflectors, but vintage headlight reflectors are done in much smaller machines with lower-tech equipment.
  7. Headlight Resilvering - Who does it?

    Evaporated aluminum coatings do NOT need to be deposited on top of electroplated nickel if the coating is deposited on glass. If the reflector is made from metal (steel, brass, aluminum), it's usually a good idea to put aluminum down over a thin nickel layer, but it can be electroless nickel (Kanigen) that will plate into holes and around corners. Metal and glass reflectors need to be perfectly polished before nickel plating and vacuum coating. Here's a 14 ft diameter mirror at the Discovery Channel Telescope in Happy Jack, AZ that has been vacuum coated with aluminum as it emerges from the vacuum chamber. I had a role in the design, fabrication, and testing of this vacuum chamber and coating process. Big telescope mirrors don't usually get the silicon dioxide overcoat layer, so they have to be stripped and recoated every few years. A few telescopes get coated with multi-layer coatings using Nichrome, silver, silicon dioxide, titanium oxide, and other materials - they will go many years between recoating.
  8. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    I found several 7/8-18 spark plug taps on Amazon and other places for about US $25. See Mailing it to you via U.S. Postal Service "First Class Package International Service" is $13.75 for the indicated weight of 4 ounces (113 grams), about $23 for 425 grams. Estimated delivery time is 7-21 days (not guaranteed). This seems to be the cheapest way to ship things weighing less than 4 lbs ( 1.8 kg) from the U.S. to anywhere overseas. For items less than 1 lb and under $400, no customs forms required. If you can't find one in Australia, I can buy it here and mail it to you, send you a PayPal invoice via email. But, here's a tap on Amazon that will ship directly to you for $5.38, total price US $26.96: I don't know how Amazon gets to ship stuff so cheaply!
  9. overdrive parts needed

    Again, it depends which overdrive transmission you have. Early ones, like my T86-1D, are pretty simple, having the actuator solenoid, mechanical governor, and a single-pole switch and relay for briefly shorting the coil.. Later ones like T86-1E, used an electrical governor, lock-out switch on the back of the transmission and a double-pole double-throw switch for the kickdown. Here is a diagram for the M5 truck, which should be pretty close to a 1940 Champion. I mounted the relay on the firewall beside the voltage regulator. I installed a manual switch for the kickdown since I couldn't find the bracket and carb linkage for the usual kickdown switch. The photo below also shows the starter button I added to eliminate having to step on the clutch to engage the starter. Ford-type starter solenoids also have a manual actuation button on the bottom that makes it easy to jog the engine over for tune-ups. Shortening your existing driveshaft sounds good. However, most of my Studebaker shop manuals show that transmissions of that era had a slip joint in the driveshaft for standard 3-speed transmissions but used a slip joint in the transmission yoke for overdrive units. You need one or the other but not both.
  10. overdrive parts needed

    The type E driveshaft in the 1934-46 parts book is set up for two standard 1310-series U-joints, no slip joint in the shaft. This presumes there is a sliding yoke in the rear of the transmission., though my parts books don't show it that way. Which OD transmission have you got? Probably T86-1D or T86-1E. The 1929-40 parts book shows the length of the 196639 driveshaft as 50-5/16" but with a slip joint for OD cars. Once you figure out which one you have, any local driveline shop can make up a new driveshaft for you, either with or without the slip joint. They will balance it, too. The 195774 solenoid control switch may be difficult to find. You can us the later 529479 switch (see Studebaker International, $39.50). Just ground one side. You'll need to make a bracket to hold the switch so the throttle linkage can contact the plunger when you push the gas pedal all the way down. A small toggle switch under the dash can be used to manually kick out the overdrive for climbing hills, etc. Stephen Allen shows a 195774 switch in stock: See I recently had a short driveshaft with a slip yoke made from scratch using 2.5" o.d. tube and 1310 size yokes.
  11. 1925 Studebaker Help

    Gee, the old girl must have some spirit left in her based on your comment: "When I took her for a short sin around town, I found ..." See this recent post about U-joint and water pump drive disks:
  12. Erskine rear axle

    Try Nelson Pease in Palmer, Mass. He has lots of NOS axle shafts. His phone is four wun tree - too eight tree - sebn sicks too oh. He doesn't do email. Call Mon-Fri 9-5. I think VAP sold off their inventory, don't know where it went.
  13. made some metal 3D-printed parts

    Getting a 3D solid object into a CAD file is still a little difficult, but I've been experimenting with that, too. I bought a Structure Sensor for my iPad and the Skanect software from here: The Structure Sensor is a clamp-on additional camera for the iPad that assists in 3D capture. The Skanect software runs on a Windows PC to process and edit the files. I've used it to scan some people, both head-to-shoulders and full body. I uploaded the 3D files to Shapeways and printed out full-color 3D models about 3" high of my wife, grand-daughter, and some friends. While there are some minor defects in the process, the likenesses are pretty good. I've tried scanning a full car but the Skanext software has troubles dealing with an object that large. Also, chrome and shiny paint confuses the camera. Still, it's pretty amazing what you can get now for a few hundred dollars. If you want to see one of these people scans, send me a PM and I'll send you a 3D file in .3mf or .obj format which can be opened in Paint 3D or 3D Builder on Windows 10 computers. Another scanning alternative is to take 50-250 normal 2D photos from various positions around an object. Software such as Remake from Autodesk can then reconstruct a 3D object in detail and color. With this technique (photogrammetry, see Wikipedia), you can reconstruct a car, house, or large building to scale. I've been able to scan some smaller objects, like a can of peaches, and turn it into a CAD-compatible file using Remake. The attached file is a movie of a reconstructed can of peaches from about 40 photos from my digital camera. Not perfect, but not too bad for a quick effort. Unfortunately, Autodesk seems to be discontinuing free access to Remake and moving to paid subscription software. There are many other software packages for photogrammetry. For best accuracy, CAD is still the best way. I got an email back from about the impact resistance of the 3D printed stainless steel. For various liability reasons, the parts one can order from their basic website are listed as "decorative only", not recommended for moving parts in machinery, etc. However, they did send me a link to their industrial site which can turn out higher grade materials for functional objects in the industrial world - for a price. For metal parts, they can make aluminum alloy (AlSi10Mg), titanium alloy (TiAl6V4), and 316L stainless steel (laser sintered, bronze infused). While they still don't list the impact strength of the stainless steel printed material, the elongation at breakage is shown as 25-55%, about 10 times the values for the non-industrial materials. Here is a link to the industrial materials data sheet: 3DP.pdf So, use the industrial-grade materials for hard-working parts and the consumer-grade materials for knobs and door handles. Click on the file below to see the can of peaches: Hollabaugh peaches 4.mp4
  14. Impression mold?

    Here's a summary of the hydroforming process. I made a rosette for a grille shell from 0.020" thick brass sheet (1/2 hard). The embossed features were cut into an aluminum slug, along with a raised ring to center a piece of 4" diameter steel pipe. The brass disk was placed on top of the die and a urethane pad about 1/2" thick was placed on top, followed by a thick steel slug that was loose slip fit in the steel pipe. I used my 12 ton hydraulic press to push the brass into the recesses in the aluminum disk. As I recall, I tried a couple of urethane disks of different durometers. The amber one in the photo is 80 durometer. The 12-ton press wasn't really enough to do the job to my satisfaction, so I eventually used a 50 ton press that I had access to. The urethane really does behave like hydraulic fluid under pressure, which is why the steel pusher has to fit almost tight to keep the urethane from squeezing out. I've also bent sheet steel pieces in the press using a 1" thick hard rubber pad and a body dolly or piece of pipe to get a smooth, round shape. Sounds like that might be the way to go for Spinneyhill - use a piece of steel pipe of the same diameter (or just a bit smaller) as the starter/generator as a form tool or shape a piece of hard wood with a 2-2.5" radius. With a pusher tool made from a piece of 2"x2"x1/8" angle iron, you can bend sheet metal by pressing the sheet metal into the rubber pad. The pad thickness needs to be at least 2-3 times the depth you are trying to obtain.
  15. made some metal 3D-printed parts

    Yes, some data on brittleness, ductility, malleability, etc. would be useful for the "printed" material. The stuff comes out 60% 420 stainless steel and 40% infiltrated bronze (90% copper, 10% tin) and it withstands 850 °C temperatures. The data on the i.materialise site shows 2.3% elongation at breakage, so it has some ductility, more than grey iron anyway. Interestingly, the same material from is listed at 7% elongation at breakage. I suppose a comparison of Charpy or Izod impact test data with other materials could quantify brittleness, but I haven't found any data on line on this material. In principle, I could get a sample from the company and beat it with a hammer, but that's a little unscientific - though it might feel satisfying if I couldn't break it easily. From the data available, it's tougher than pot metal and cast iron, though not as ductile/malleable as ductile iron or cold-rolled steel. We need a metallurgist to figure this one out.