whytshdo

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About whytshdo

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    mbreidenbaugh@msn.com

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  1. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Ok great.. Thanks once again for the help, advice and new knowledge. It's also good to know that I'm not going senile about what had been copied from ROJ. It was changed after I had read it. Whew...thought I was losing it. Y'all have a great day and I'll update after repairs are completed. Mike
  2. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Ok..so just for the record. After reading the Accumulator replacement instructions, it doesn't say that the Brakes will need bleeding. Is this correct that the brakes should not need to be bled if they are properly bled prior to installing the new accumulator? Thanks again, the help is much appreciated. Mike
  3. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Barney...I'm sure I copied/pasted that line from the Reatta site. However now it reads differently. this is what is there now. If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is probably in good working order. If the fluid drops 5/8 inch or greater your accumulator may be on its last legs. That's Strange. The only thing I can think is perhaps I printed that page before it was corrected and copied/pasted from what I had saved. So all said, a good accumulator should be drawing less fluid from the reservoir than a poor one thereby creating less fluid level variation. Luckily I have a new accumulator I can install. (Now where did that get stored after the move???) Thanks for the help explaining this to me 2seater and Barney After bleeding off the pressure from the accumulator; when removing it should I expect much fluid leakage from remaining fluid in ball?
  4. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Thank you for your response 2Seater. Perhaps I'm Not understanding this properly so please bear with me. Please understand, I'm not trying to argue. I truly only know about these systems what I've read/learned here. I'm just trying to reconcile 2 seemingly opposite answers. From what I've read throughout this site and on ROJ, is that when you turn on the ignition, the Accumulator fills with fluid. Then, when you pump the brakes 25 times to release the pressure the fluid is expelled back to the reservoir. The amount pushed back to the reservoir is dependent on the amount of pressure behind the bladder in the accumulator. Therefore, a low pressure(read bad accumulator) would not be able to return as much fluid. Whereas a good accumulator with higher pressure behind the bladder would be able to return almost all fluid. This would present itself as showing a higher difference between depressurized and pressurized in the Resevoir. The following is quoted from the article "Accumulator function explained" on ROJ by Barney Eaton "This sketch represents the other extreme... an accumulator with most or all of the nitrogen charge depleted. This happens with age and there is presently no way of measuring the actual condition other than the brake test that have been developed. This sketch shows the bladder completely compressed at the top of the accumulator. As the nitrogen charge diminishes, it is much easier for the boost pump to force brake fluid into the accumulator. The pressure switch that turn on the pump comes on at 2000 psi and shut off at 2600. The ABS light comes on at 1500 psi and the Red Brake lamp comes on at 1300 psi. Since there is no nitrogen reserve, the accumulator is always full of brake fluid and since you cannot compress a solid, the pressure will fall and climb very quickly, this is what happens when you push the pedal once and the pump comes on. Also in this condition, the fluid level in the reservoir will hardly budge." What I read throughout your testing, was how much difference there was from each pressure point to next, not change in reservoir level. So I'm thinking we're comparing apples and oranges on these 2 different types of tests Again, Thank you for your response and further assistance Mike
  5. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    This doesn't sound right. On the ROJ site, the accumulator test states that 1/2" or less is bad. (If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is on its last legs.) Basically the less difference in displacement the worse it is. So now I'm confused. Can someone else help to clarify this?
  6. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Update: Thanks to a great tutorial on The ROJ site, I was able to diagnose the E026 code error to being a faulty Cooling fan relay. I also had a blown dash light. Replaced the relay and all 7 dash bulbs for the idiot lights and everything seems to be good to go. I still need to tackle the brake issue. hopefully next week. I did check the accumulator by measuring the difference between full under pressure and pressure relieved; There was a 3/4 inch difference so this seems OK. Mike
  7. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Thanks Dave, that was a good read. I'll keep that all in mind as I progress. And yes RedDarkGrey, I'm planning on pulling off the one brake and checking it over well for what might be a problem. Thanks and I'll let y'all know if I solve
  8. Good morning gentlemen & ladies, last week-end I replaced all four Brake calipers, rotors and pads. I followed the bleeding procedures and had clear fluid/no air for all four wheels. After doing this, I went for a test ride. The brake pedal seems to go all the way down before engaging. however if I let off and pump it again it seems to work more properly. The car stops fine but the pedal feel is very odd. Also it seems that one off the brakes(front left) maybe be locked, even though it is brand new. Also, while taking the test drive, I started getting a message on the CRT that the ECM detected and electrical problem. I'm wondering if these two issues are connected and if anyone else has experienced this and solved it. I check the ECM codes and the only code list was E026 History. I have a manual and will be looking into this also. Thanks in advance and any help/advise is appreciated. Mike
  9. Bleeding rear brakes

    Excellent..Thank you. I'm about to redo all the brakes on my '89 and just wanted to be sure.
  10. Bleeding rear brakes

    Is this true for the front also?
  11. AM or FM which needs an antenna please

    I recall having to "Trim" the radio for AM reception when I installed aftermarket radios. I haven't seen this on my radios lately which may be why tha AM reception is sub-par.
  12. Reatta glamour shots

    enlarge it with a good photo program.
  13. 88 Reatta Sub Floor Splice Rework

    Excellent write up. thanks
  14. the Reatta got a boo boo..

    Yes I have seen that tutorial. However, I was hoping someone might have taken a picture of the underneath side of the dash panel while they had it off. I would like to get a clear idea of how the clips engage to better understand their removal. Thanks
  15. the Reatta got a boo boo..

    Hi all. I’ve been a forum member for a couple of years now. Haven’t been too active lately, but a recent altercation between our Reatta and a piece of truck tire has brought me back. The back story is that a couple weeks ago on a Friday my wife’s VW Beetle decided to overheat. Unfortunately when all was said and done it had blown the head gasket. The following Monday, while driving the Reatta to work, the car in front of her hit a piece of tire in the road and it took off the passenger side headlight cover and took a chunk out of the right fender. This brought me back in search of parts and information again. I had forgotten how friendly this place was. Anyway, I got hold of Jim and got several of the parts needed including the headlight assembly, parking lamp housing, Grill(NOS) and also a window motor that was also going bad. Big Thanks to Jim, He has been very helpful. I found a NOS fendor and I am awaiting an appointment at the body shop. This has prompted me though to go through and fix all the other little things that are wrong with the car. These include; replacing the non-functional sunroof, replacing speakers, solving the “Door ajar” message on the display, non-working dash pod lights, lighter not working(I think I left the wire off), and drivers side key lock not unlocking door and recovering the headliner. Not a large list but the car only has 59,000 miles. I have most of the parts needed and will be working on it over the coming few weeks. The car goes to the shop on the 24<SUP>th</SUP> and I hope to have most of this done by then. Hopefully by the time it’s done in the shop I’ll have the headliner done and ready to reinstall and it should be close to as good as new and ready for another 21 years and 59,000 miles. The only thing that worries me is pulling the dash cover to access the photo sensor. Does anyone have pictures of what the dash looks like on the bottom side to get an idea of just how the clips attach. Also, does anyone have or know where to get the tool for pulling the dash that they would like to sell. Thanks for the help and support and hopefully when I’m done the only issue I’ll have is intermittently the “Anti-Lock” light is on. Sorry for the long post, have a great day.