whytshdo

Members
  • Content count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About whytshdo

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    mbreidenbaugh@msn.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  1. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    ok...so here my latest update and question. I installed a NOS accumulator I had in stock. It appears to have made a difference. Brakes feel a little better an my fluid drop in reservoir is down to just shy of 1/2 inch. However, I need to know how to adjust the emergency brake. It won't hold the car. I looked in the service manual, but the process listed there did not seem to help. Also, it now feels like the brakes are stuck engaged. When I put the car in gear and let off the brake, I have to give it a fair amount of throttle to move the car. I have to take the car for emissons test and I think they'll want the E-brake working properly. Thanks in advance.
  2. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Ok great.. Thanks once again for the help, advice and new knowledge. It's also good to know that I'm not going senile about what had been copied from ROJ. It was changed after I had read it. Whew...thought I was losing it. Y'all have a great day and I'll update after repairs are completed. Mike
  3. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Ok..so just for the record. After reading the Accumulator replacement instructions, it doesn't say that the Brakes will need bleeding. Is this correct that the brakes should not need to be bled if they are properly bled prior to installing the new accumulator? Thanks again, the help is much appreciated. Mike
  4. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Barney...I'm sure I copied/pasted that line from the Reatta site. However now it reads differently. this is what is there now. If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is probably in good working order. If the fluid drops 5/8 inch or greater your accumulator may be on its last legs. That's Strange. The only thing I can think is perhaps I printed that page before it was corrected and copied/pasted from what I had saved. So all said, a good accumulator should be drawing less fluid from the reservoir than a poor one thereby creating less fluid level variation. Luckily I have a new accumulator I can install. (Now where did that get stored after the move???) Thanks for the help explaining this to me 2seater and Barney After bleeding off the pressure from the accumulator; when removing it should I expect much fluid leakage from remaining fluid in ball?
  5. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Thank you for your response 2Seater. Perhaps I'm Not understanding this properly so please bear with me. Please understand, I'm not trying to argue. I truly only know about these systems what I've read/learned here. I'm just trying to reconcile 2 seemingly opposite answers. From what I've read throughout this site and on ROJ, is that when you turn on the ignition, the Accumulator fills with fluid. Then, when you pump the brakes 25 times to release the pressure the fluid is expelled back to the reservoir. The amount pushed back to the reservoir is dependent on the amount of pressure behind the bladder in the accumulator. Therefore, a low pressure(read bad accumulator) would not be able to return as much fluid. Whereas a good accumulator with higher pressure behind the bladder would be able to return almost all fluid. This would present itself as showing a higher difference between depressurized and pressurized in the Resevoir. The following is quoted from the article "Accumulator function explained" on ROJ by Barney Eaton "This sketch represents the other extreme... an accumulator with most or all of the nitrogen charge depleted. This happens with age and there is presently no way of measuring the actual condition other than the brake test that have been developed. This sketch shows the bladder completely compressed at the top of the accumulator. As the nitrogen charge diminishes, it is much easier for the boost pump to force brake fluid into the accumulator. The pressure switch that turn on the pump comes on at 2000 psi and shut off at 2600. The ABS light comes on at 1500 psi and the Red Brake lamp comes on at 1300 psi. Since there is no nitrogen reserve, the accumulator is always full of brake fluid and since you cannot compress a solid, the pressure will fall and climb very quickly, this is what happens when you push the pedal once and the pump comes on. Also in this condition, the fluid level in the reservoir will hardly budge." What I read throughout your testing, was how much difference there was from each pressure point to next, not change in reservoir level. So I'm thinking we're comparing apples and oranges on these 2 different types of tests Again, Thank you for your response and further assistance Mike
  6. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    This doesn't sound right. On the ROJ site, the accumulator test states that 1/2" or less is bad. (If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is on its last legs.) Basically the less difference in displacement the worse it is. So now I'm confused. Can someone else help to clarify this?
  7. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Update: Thanks to a great tutorial on The ROJ site, I was able to diagnose the E026 code error to being a faulty Cooling fan relay. I also had a blown dash light. Replaced the relay and all 7 dash bulbs for the idiot lights and everything seems to be good to go. I still need to tackle the brake issue. hopefully next week. I did check the accumulator by measuring the difference between full under pressure and pressure relieved; There was a 3/4 inch difference so this seems OK. Mike
  8. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    Thanks Dave, that was a good read. I'll keep that all in mind as I progress. And yes RedDarkGrey, I'm planning on pulling off the one brake and checking it over well for what might be a problem. Thanks and I'll let y'all know if I solve
  9. Good morning gentlemen & ladies, last week-end I replaced all four Brake calipers, rotors and pads. I followed the bleeding procedures and had clear fluid/no air for all four wheels. After doing this, I went for a test ride. The brake pedal seems to go all the way down before engaging. however if I let off and pump it again it seems to work more properly. The car stops fine but the pedal feel is very odd. Also it seems that one off the brakes(front left) maybe be locked, even though it is brand new. Also, while taking the test drive, I started getting a message on the CRT that the ECM detected and electrical problem. I'm wondering if these two issues are connected and if anyone else has experienced this and solved it. I check the ECM codes and the only code list was E026 History. I have a manual and will be looking into this also. Thanks in advance and any help/advise is appreciated. Mike
  10. Bleeding rear brakes

    Excellent..Thank you. I'm about to redo all the brakes on my '89 and just wanted to be sure.
  11. Bleeding rear brakes

    Is this true for the front also?
  12. AM or FM which needs an antenna please

    I recall having to "Trim" the radio for AM reception when I installed aftermarket radios. I haven't seen this on my radios lately which may be why tha AM reception is sub-par.
  13. Reatta glamour shots

    enlarge it with a good photo program.
  14. 88 Reatta Sub Floor Splice Rework

    Excellent write up. thanks
  15. the Reatta got a boo boo..

    Yes I have seen that tutorial. However, I was hoping someone might have taken a picture of the underneath side of the dash panel while they had it off. I would like to get a clear idea of how the clips engage to better understand their removal. Thanks