37_Roadmaster_C

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About 37_Roadmaster_C

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/18/1964

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Central Washington State, USA
  • Interests:
    Electronics, amature radio, antique cars, metal working (machining), cats and family

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  1. GASOLINE TANK GAUGE

    That looks like exceptional quality work. Just a tidbit of information for those who may want it.... Veradale is an old name for a community just east of Spokane Washington. Now it is part of Spokane Valley Washington. The area is the largest metro in Eastern Washington. Just a FYI....
  2. Unknown part

    Loren, I gave you a like for the factory name
  3. 6V fog light wiring

    Matt, Disreguard my idea. Your switch is a different type. I am also curious about the two terminals under the fuse clips. My thought is that the switch may have provisions to be used either with or without the fuse depending on which terminal is connected to the power source. Just a thought......
  4. 6V fog light wiring

    Matt, Some of the old accessory switches were lighted. If yours is one of those the third terminal is ground. If you have an ohm meter check the resistance through all combinations of two terminals. Do this with the switch both off and on. Even better do the tests including the metal mounting surface as a fourth terminal. The reason for this is that the internal light may be designed to be tied into the dash lights so that the switch is only lighted when the dash lights are on. In that case the ground for the switch would be the metal mounting point. Let us know what you find.
  5. When Re wiring Vehicle wire size

    No problem Frank. I just get pissy about things like this because I have been in the middle before. Now if you want a real productive argument, lets talk metric VS imperial pros and cons............ I'm running out now... is afraid of fire....
  6. When Re wiring Vehicle wire size

    Ok guys, I am going to jump in here and call BS on the irrelivant argument about electron flow! Joe is correct if you want to grade a test for an engineering position. The real point of this topic is wire size and I mean the size (cross sectional area) of the copper. It has been explained that the current (amperage) required to do a specific amount of work (light a lightbulb, for example) is doubled in a 6 volt system as compaired to a 12 volt system. The more amps required means the wire needs to be larger to allow the amps through with acceptable voltage loss. The techno jargon is not needed to explain this to a non tech person. If you want an explaination of the scientific reasons including the math to prove why a certain wire size is used, feel free to take an electrical engineering course from a respectful school!!! Sorry for the snarkey response, but it serves no purpose for the original poster, to argue scientific nitpicking points. I have lived and worked on both sides of this fence and the point is moot for practical answers. Now one thing we seem to agree on is that buying a premade harness is generally more practical than making one yourself. Just for info, I bought my replacement harness from YNZ in California. They are just another option to check out. The harness for my 37 Buick was custom ordered with some modifications to meet my wants. The harness is perfect and the documentation is great. The mods I ordered were a larger wire size for headlight circuits, a rework to allow turn signals with the existing lights and a couple of extra wires for driving lights, spotlight and a possible future electric fuel pump. The finished harness looks like Buick made it in 1937. Again, sorry for the rant .
  7. Oil (Groan)

    I would recomend a quality oil recomended for diesel engines, in a viscosity appropriate for the temperature. I am not sure what brands are available in the UK. The zinc issue is basicly handled with a diesel oil. The worst oil you can buy today is much better than the best available in the 20's. I mainly replied to this post just to say, "Beautiful Car". Have fun...
  8. Can I reuse 1955 Packard 320 headbolts?

    I am very mixed on the replys to this thread. I will just toss in my thoughts for consideration. I understand and respect both Matt and Joe and their experience and technical knowledge. In my time as a amature machinist and a car and farm fixer I have never replaced a head bolt on pre 80's engines. Matt makes a good point with the consideration that if the bolts are replaced with appropriate new bolts you will have no doubts. New high grade bolts should not cost $18.00 each. More like $2 to $5 each. As long as the head and block are both the same metal, I would not be afraid to reuse origional bolts as long as they are not obviously damaged. I would make sure the bolts AND threaded block holes are clean and cleared. I would also make sure to measure bolt clearance as mentioned above in case the head or block were ever milled from origional. Another thing to watch for that costs nothing is carefully count the number of turns it takes to bottom out the bolts in the block without the head. This will give you a reference point. When you install the head and tork the bolts keep a close count on the turns used. I would expect there to be several turns unused. If it is getting real close I would simply expect either the head/block was machined or the bolts had streached. Either way, new bolts should be used. I would also make it a point to retork the bolts after a couple of heat cool cycles and again after a month or so of average driving. It is a bit excessive, but a retork after winter storage could not hurt. Just my thoughts, for what you paid for them .
  9. 1936 Roadmaster broken pistons

    I do not know about your 36 320, but my 37 has a new rebuild with 38 pistons from Egge and there were no problems at all. Egge also did the machine work on the rods for insert bearings and they also were a perfect fit.
  10. 37 Buick solenoid end play

    Whoa, stop, reread Bloos instructions. You do need the starter removed and on the bench. The 1/8 inch clearance he mentions is between the starter gear and the inside edge of the starter nose casting. I will confirm Bloos information....It was the starter on my Roadmaster that he rebuilt... works great .
  11. Breaking in an engine

    I have not read the above links, so if I am repeating information.....oops . One of the bigest issues with breaking in a new or rebuilt engine is, as stated above, causing and allowing the newly finishes, machined, honed parts to wear into each other. The reason for varing speeds and loads is to keep resonaces (think vibrations) from causing a repeating pattern of wear and therefore not making things wear togeather. It is a bit hard to explain how resonance happens in a heavy engine, but it definately can and does happen from time to time. Think about how a wind chime vibrates to make a tone when the clapper hits the tubes. An engine firing at a constand rate and load does the same thing to the moving parts. By changing things a bit the place where something happens changes and therefore does not form a pattern. This is what I have been told through the years and as a hobby machinist I have seen the results of vibration on precision fitted parts. I am sure there is much more to it, so I will keep an eye open for more information....
  12. Battery Voltage Drop

    A half a volt across the solenoid is a bit concerning to me. I am not sure if it is OK or not. The volt drop on the battery when cranking is normal. Also remember that our 6 volt cars do not spin over like modern cars on their best day. My 37 Buick 320 turns like a slug when starting with a warm day and fresh battery, but she starts every time. If your car starts well all is fine.
  13. 1970's GM A/C Receiver/Dryer Help Desperately Needed

    Chris, The above information is basicly spot on. I have worked in the industrial refrigeration industry for 25+ years. The desicant bags can be dryed with a microvave oven or better yet, in the regular oven set to about 180 degrees overnight. Both ways work, but the oven just seems more right to eveporate moisture. To address your questions. The reciever/dryer is not FULL of anything in normal operation, however it will have some oil and liquid refrigerant in it when things are right and working. My approach to your problem would be to talk with your mechanic and see what his approach would be. The new desicant bags should be shipped in an airtight package. If in question just dry the new bags as above before you install them. Now for something that has not been mentioned yet... There are cleaner/solvents that are specific to cleaning freon refrigeration systems. They are poured into the system and then flushed through with air, or better, nitrogen. This will clear any old oil and dust etc... After that is done the system is assembled with new orings and seals everywhere and vacuum is applied. If your mechanic will accomidate you, I would ask him/her to keep the system under vacuum for at least 24 hours. More is always better and it will assure a dry system. Next is to charge with refrigerant AND oil to the proper levels/amounts/poundage etc as stated in the manual. At that time you should be in great shape to enjoy a cool ride on a hot day. Your best friend in this case is a GOOD AC mechanic that will listen to you and that you trust. Oh yea, your other question about the desicant bags... Make sure they are dry and put them in last. They will be fine out in the open for hours/days unless it is in a rain storm. No oil in the reviever/dryer unless specificly stated in the service manual. The oil is for the compressor and it will be carried through the system as a vapor with the refrigerant.
  14. HEADLIGHT PROBLEM

    Just a quick reminder.... The headlight systems on these cars has one more confusing issue. Like Bloo said earlier, the headlights are effectivly reversed from left to right. The headlights are aimed to be "cross eyed". The drivers side light lights the right side of the road and the passenger side headlight lights to the drivers side of the road. Just tossing that out again as a reminder. I also have a YNZ harness being installed in my 37 Roadmaster this winter. I had the harness custom altered to allow turn signals with the existing fender lights and brake lights. My car had sealed beam headlights fitted in the early 40's and a relay box added to handle the higher current required. I am fairly sure my headlight switch is in proper working order. When I get some free time I will collect it and map out the contact arrangement for all positions.
  15. I do not think there are any casting dates on the block. There may be casting numbers that would help determine which engine you have (248 or 263). As for the fuel pump, I beleve the pumps are the same for both small engines, others here might know for sure. I think it is rare, but I have seen engine numbers ground off and restamped by hand to the origional engine number. Your "stamped" number seems correct for a 1940 engine. You really do need to find out what you really have. While the 263 is not origional, it is a very good engine. The rub is that if you get to needing any parts specific to either the 248 or 263 you will need to know that information for sure. I would be very tempted to remove the water pump and have a look on the block behind it to see if there is anything stamped there. The black engine paint is still a bit concerning considering it is definately not a stock 1940 engine color. At the very least it implys the engine has been out and repainted or replaced and restamped... who knows. There are folks here that know much more about the telltail visual differences between years and sizes of the engines. I am not one of them. As for your earlier oil question, I will give my feelings for what they are worth. I have been told by many people that modern detergent oils have two major properties that old nondetergent oils did not have. The first is additives to help keep deposits from sticking to the metal surfaces. The second, and more important,is the detergent additives work to keep particles, dirt, carbon metal shavings etc. suspended in the oil so that modern filters can catch them before they settle out to the bottom of the pan and nooks and cranies. Now as these engines normally did not have oil filters, and even if they did they were not full flow filters, the settling of bad things was wanted to keep as much as possible from being pumped through the engine. I have been told by engine rebuilders I trust that it is best to stay with what it was using unless you rebuild and clean the engine. Then you should use a high quality, modern oil and preferably a filter system if possible. My go to engine guy always uses either Rotella or Delo diesel engine oils after a full rebuild and swears by them. The bottom line about modern oils is that the worst you could buy today is most likely much better than the best available in 1940. For right now, I would run a few hundred miles on what you have in the engine and then drain and refill with your choice of oil. Think of it as a cleaning run.... Best luck and please let us know what you figure out about your car and the fuel problems.