32Pontiac6

Members
  • Content count

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About 32Pontiac6

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/16/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    San Jose, CA
  • Interests:
    Spithead 6 ('26-'32) Pontiacs, Flathead Pontiacs, Corvettes

Recent Profile Visitors

304 profile views
  1. Even if Tinindian was not right on this one, he is still 99.99% accurate with old Pontiac information.
  2. Rick, Here are some photos that I hope help. The first photo shows the conduit that routes the cable from the chassis to the brake. Remember this is on a '32. I don't have information on a '33. Does this look similar to yours? The second photo shows the Steeldraulic brakes on my '30. I also marked the adjusting wheel which Tinindian showed the adjusting pliers for. The last photo are the Bendix brakes for the '32. My guess is that they are similar to yours. On the right of the photo you see the adjusting wheel which is story of star shaped. It looks very similar to the adjustment on more modern cars. I hope this helps.
  3. I wonder if the 1933 brakes are Bendix and not Steeldraulic? I know that in 1932 Pontiac brakes were changed to the standard shoe style Bendix brakes. I would be surprised if they went back to Steeldraulic. The brakes in 1932 had the star wheel mechanism that was used on drum brakes into the 1960's,
  4. Another option for one that mounts exactly like the original is from this company: http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/ I bought one for my '32 and plan to get one for the '30 because the switch to the firewall mounted coil is failing. They are not cheap but are quality units. I have attached a photo showing the coil mounted on the '32. It is mounted a little differently on the '30 but you can see what the coil looks like.
  5. I would also check the gear that runs off the camshaft. The one on my '32 (same distributor) was loose and had to put a new pin in to secure it to the shaft. Also, if you can find a place with an old Sun distributor tester you can check the mechanical advance. These distributors do have a significant advance at higher RPM.
  6. Thanks for sharing and posting a photo of the car. Good to see this splithead back on the road. I am sure all of us with this vintage car have received help from our friend Tinindian.
  7. Thanks for the input. I will explore these options today.
  8. I am needing to restore the running board rubber on my 1932 Pontiac Sport Coupe. The running boards are in good shape as is the outside trim piece. I just need the new rubber. I have attached a few photos of the boards to show the pattern. Note the fourth photo that shows the bottom of the running board and the holes where the rubber seems to be pressed through to hold the rubber to the board. Questions: 1). Does this rubber look similar to any other early 30's GM cars? 2). Has anybody restored the running board mat on a '32 Pontiac? 3). Any suggestions on rubber suppliers? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Rob
  9. Thanks for all your input. I am becoming less inclined to powder coat for a couple of reasons: scratching and chipping. I am concerned that taking the wheel off and on might cause the power coating to chip. Right now I am leaning towards painting. I know that paint will chip but at least you can touch it up if it does. There are two Eastwood paints that I am going to do a test on: Silver Cad and Tank Tone Metallic. The Silver Cad looks good in the photo of the cap but the picture on the can looks bluer than I think it should look. So getting a can of each to try. Will have to post the results.
  10. I am replacing the tires on my 1930 Pontiac. The rims were painted by the last owner. The rims were originally cadmium plated. Has anybody had any experience powder coating the rims to simulate the cadmium plating? If so, how has this performed? Any help would be appreciated. Rob
  11. Here is a picture of the Brassworks radiator on my '30. Seems to be a true honeycomb. I know it is big bucks but it is very nice to drive the car and have overheating (at least due to the radiator) off the table. Good luck on your decision. Also, nice looking car. Cars are so much more endearing when you have family history. I have the complete history of my '30 back to where it was sold but, unfortunately, it is not my family that purchased it.
  12. As reference in the Tinindian link, Bill Hirsch has good quality paint that he sells as Pontiac Green '30-'39. I have used it several times on my '32 and it seems to hold up very well. Regarding transmission, my speculation (and it is just that speculation) is that the engine and transmission were the same color because they were installed together at the factory. I base this on a video I have seen on YouTube that shows a Chevrolet assembly plant in the mid-30's. The engine and transmission are dropped into the frame after the front and rear end were already installed. While black and white the film shows the engine/transmission color to be different from frame, front end and rear end. I speculate that this method would have likely been used by Pontiac and that it probably had not changed from the 20's. Also, seeing old footage of other manufacturers shows the engine/transmission unit going in at the same time. Here is the video: https://youtu.be/8bT6txm4RpA
  13. A local radiator shop told me they could get the honeycomb core to match my '32 Pontiac. I don't remember what the cost would be. However, my 1930 Pontiac has a Breastworks radiator that was installed in 2009 by the previous owner. Have an invoice for $2,406.53. Not sure what it would be now. The car runs very cool. Normally about 180 degrees. On the hottest days this summer it was close to 190 but never overheated. My 2 cents worth.
  14. Thanks for the input. I have heard good things about Sherm's from another person so I sent them pictures of what I want done and we shall see what the definition of 'NOT cheap' really is.
  15. Does anybody have any recommendations for platers that will chrome pot metal? It is for my '32 Pontiac. I would be especially interested in somebody is in the Northern California area but. Thanks for your help, Rob