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About 32Pontiac6

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  • Birthday 03/16/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    San Jose, CA
  • Interests:
    Spithead 6 ('26-'32) Pontiacs, Flathead Pontiacs, Corvettes

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  1. Thanks for sharing and posting a photo of the car. Good to see this splithead back on the road. I am sure all of us with this vintage car have received help from our friend Tinindian.
  2. Thanks for the input. I will explore these options today.
  3. I am needing to restore the running board rubber on my 1932 Pontiac Sport Coupe. The running boards are in good shape as is the outside trim piece. I just need the new rubber. I have attached a few photos of the boards to show the pattern. Note the fourth photo that shows the bottom of the running board and the holes where the rubber seems to be pressed through to hold the rubber to the board. Questions: 1). Does this rubber look similar to any other early 30's GM cars? 2). Has anybody restored the running board mat on a '32 Pontiac? 3). Any suggestions on rubber suppliers? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Rob
  4. Thanks for all your input. I am becoming less inclined to powder coat for a couple of reasons: scratching and chipping. I am concerned that taking the wheel off and on might cause the power coating to chip. Right now I am leaning towards painting. I know that paint will chip but at least you can touch it up if it does. There are two Eastwood paints that I am going to do a test on: Silver Cad and Tank Tone Metallic. The Silver Cad looks good in the photo of the cap but the picture on the can looks bluer than I think it should look. So getting a can of each to try. Will have to post the results.
  5. I am replacing the tires on my 1930 Pontiac. The rims were painted by the last owner. The rims were originally cadmium plated. Has anybody had any experience powder coating the rims to simulate the cadmium plating? If so, how has this performed? Any help would be appreciated. Rob
  6. Here is a picture of the Brassworks radiator on my '30. Seems to be a true honeycomb. I know it is big bucks but it is very nice to drive the car and have overheating (at least due to the radiator) off the table. Good luck on your decision. Also, nice looking car. Cars are so much more endearing when you have family history. I have the complete history of my '30 back to where it was sold but, unfortunately, it is not my family that purchased it.
  7. As reference in the Tinindian link, Bill Hirsch has good quality paint that he sells as Pontiac Green '30-'39. I have used it several times on my '32 and it seems to hold up very well. Regarding transmission, my speculation (and it is just that speculation) is that the engine and transmission were the same color because they were installed together at the factory. I base this on a video I have seen on YouTube that shows a Chevrolet assembly plant in the mid-30's. The engine and transmission are dropped into the frame after the front and rear end were already installed. While black and white the film shows the engine/transmission color to be different from frame, front end and rear end. I speculate that this method would have likely been used by Pontiac and that it probably had not changed from the 20's. Also, seeing old footage of other manufacturers shows the engine/transmission unit going in at the same time. Here is the video: https://youtu.be/8bT6txm4RpA
  8. A local radiator shop told me they could get the honeycomb core to match my '32 Pontiac. I don't remember what the cost would be. However, my 1930 Pontiac has a Breastworks radiator that was installed in 2009 by the previous owner. Have an invoice for $2,406.53. Not sure what it would be now. The car runs very cool. Normally about 180 degrees. On the hottest days this summer it was close to 190 but never overheated. My 2 cents worth.
  9. Thanks for the input. I have heard good things about Sherm's from another person so I sent them pictures of what I want done and we shall see what the definition of 'NOT cheap' really is.
  10. Does anybody have any recommendations for platers that will chrome pot metal? It is for my '32 Pontiac. I would be especially interested in somebody is in the Northern California area but. Thanks for your help, Rob
  11. I would be interested in seeing the photos. As you look at the front of the car the engine rotates clockwise. So that means under power the forces should be for the driver side to be pushed down and the passenger side to lift. But the forces would reverse when you are going downhill using engine compression I believe so both sides need to be fastened down. At least that is my view of the physics.
  12. Thanks for all the good information. That sounds like a good option. I will have to Google their locations and see if it can work out.
  13. I am purchasing an engine and transmission for a 30's Pontiac in another state and wonder what options there are for having the parts commercially trucked to my home. I want to compare this option to me paying for the gas and spending two nights on the road. Are there commercial trucking companies that will do this job?
  14. When I first had my engine rebuilt in about 1978, I assembled it and did not put that front timing cover seal in (ok..I was only 24..and I swear there was not one in the gasket set). If that is missing or in poor condition the leak is continual and while running not while stopped (except for what will seep through the hole in the frame cross member). I actually made one out of hard cork and coated it with JB weld and it lasted until now when the engine came apart again after over 35 years. Tinindian - if the return holes are plugged for the slingers might that cause after running seepage front or rear? I have also included a couple of shots of the front motor mounts. I used a 1/8" thick diaphragm material and 1/4" neoprene both top and bottom (total of 3/4"). Both were purchased at a local hardware store. I tried several combinations but this gave me the thickness, after the engine weight was on, that seemed to match what was there before. I don't know what the '29 has but the '32 actually had a single piece of foam type rubber that went around the top and bottom of the bracket on the motor. It was a one piece unit and I have no idea, other than replacing the entire plate that mounts on the block, how they replaced these back then.
  15. Pictures are worth a thousand words. Here are photos of the tools I used on my '32. I think it is likely close or identical to what you will be doing with the '29. Very rare car. Hopefully you will post what the fix was when you get there. This big allen wrench is one of those essential tools for a Pontiac split head 6. I know I had to use mine to get into the seal that keeps oil in the timing chain area inside the engine and not out.