MCHinson

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Everything posted by MCHinson

  1. I don't know much about Oldsmobiles of the era but I recently purchased a 1938 Buick that had an Oldsmobile Deluxe Heater installed. I have done a bit of searching online and I can't seem to identify what year of Oldsmobile this heater would have come from. Can anybody identify what year Oldsmobile this heater would have come from? I would like to know more about it. Thanks for any help that you can provide.
  2. Phillip, I realize it is not quite what you are looking for, but did you see the 1936 Special that Matt Harwood has for sale? It looks like a nice driver, not perfect but a good decent car for the price. it looks like repainting the fenders and engine and cleaning it up, would make it a really decent car.
  3. I did the first one the hard way. That is one reason why I stopped after one. After I got started, I was determined to finish it but knew that I needed to find something to back it up for the other ones. I will try to find some scrap copper pieces today so I can do the other two without having to work so hard on them. That might be a good backup plan but I really like the idea of real steel being there. I grew up in my father's machine shop, but never wanted to let him teach me to weld because I figured I would end up working in that shop for the rest of my life. I am glad I did not continue his line of work, but I do wish I had let him teach me to weld. He taught welding in the local community college for many years.
  4. I have owned a 1937 Buick Model 61 for a few years. I enjoy driving it on a regular basis. I am also the newsletter editor for the 36-38 Buick Club. I arrived home with the project car on August 14th. This initial post covers the acquisition of this project and my trip home with the car. I have done a lot of work on antique cars and I have helped others with various antique car jobs. I have owned a number of antique automobiles over the last couple of decades but I have never completed a total restoration on an antique automobile. I have always thought that I should do at least one total restoration in my life. I blame Gary Wheeler for posting his amazing restoration work in the Pre-War Buick Forum. He makes it look really easy. He got me thinking that I really should restore a car. It also does not help that every other month, I have a deadline to publish the Torque Tube II and not enough other members are sending me technical articles, photos, or other Straight 8 material for me to fill the magazine easily. A fellow club member made me aware of a project car for sale. The car was a 1938 Buick Model 61. The price was really reasonable. Since I have a 1937 Model 61, it seemed a logical project for me to take on. It would mean I was working on something very similar to what I was familiar with, and it would be nice to have a pair of sequential year Model 61 Buicks. The story on the car is that it was purchased in the 1990’s by a retired police officer from Brockton, Massachusetts. He planned to enjoy the antique car hobby in his retirement. He took the car to Al Proctor, who had a garage where he worked on old cars at the time. Al went through the car and fixed everything it needed except paint, as he was not a painter. Al delivered the car to the retired police officer and never heard from him again. In 2016, Al and a friend were driving around scouting for old cars on a Sunday afternoon and happened to see an old Buick. Al eventually tracked down the property owner and got a chance to see the car closer. The more Al looked at the car, the more familiar it looked. It was the car he had worked on in the 1990’s. Al spoke with the owner and discovered that she was the daughter of the previous owner who had Al work on the car. Apparently, he died in 1993, and the family left the car outside on various family owned properties from 1993 until Al discovered it in 2016. The Massachusetts weather was not kind to the car. Al was able to convince the owner to let him buy and attempt to save the car. Cosmetically the car is a disaster, but mechanically it should be easy to restore. Al said he hooked up a battery and a temporary fuel supply and had the car running about 15 minutes after he got it home. After Al’s son sent me a few photos and videos of the car running and driving, I decided to buy the car. His asking price was so low, I did not even try to talk him down at all. The only problem that I had was I am in Southeastern North Carolina and the car was near Boston, Massachusetts. A few years ago, I had made a decision to sell my tow vehicle and trailer as I never intended to again have an antique car that I would not drive anywhere I wanted to go. I began searching for a vehicle that I can buy that can serve as a tow vehicle. I found a few Chevrolet Suburbans for sale locally, so after a bit of research, I was ready to buy a used Suburban. I had previously been offered the use of local AACA and 36-38 Buick Club member Jeff Oaks’ trailer as well as a trailer owned by another friend and former coworker. I was talking with the other friend and told him about the delay in being able to buy the motorhome and that I had decided I could not put the trip off much more and was going to buy a used Suburban. He told me, “You don’t need to do that. I just bought a 2012 Dodge Ram 350 truck that you can use. Why don’t you just borrow my truck and trailer?” I could not argue with his logic so I agreed. It takes a special friend to loan you a truck that was so recently purchased that it still had the temporary 30 day license tag on it and a trailer that he had owned for only a few months, for a 1,700 mile round trip. I arranged for some friends and neighbors to look after my disabled wife’s meals during my absence and planned the trip so that I could complete it quickly during a less traveled weekend to avoid traffic congestion, primarily in the Washington, DC and NYC areas. I picked up my friend’s truck and trailer on Saturday, August 12 and left Wilmington at 6 pm. I drove until about 2 am Sunday morning, stopped at a motel for a few hours of sleep. After that stop, I continued my trip making only necessary stops for quick meals and bathroom breaks as needed. I arrived in Abington, Massachusetts, at 3 pm on Sunday, August 13th. My friend’s trailer is equipped with E-track rails. He had a set of brand new E-clip straps that were still in the packaging. The trailer did not have any D rings so I decided to go ahead and use the E-track hardware and his new straps instead of my own straps. By 4:15 pm, we had the car loaded and strapped down, and I started south. At my first stop on the trip for fuel, a couple of hours into the trip, I checked the trailer straps and everything was OK. The station’s bathrooms were out of order, so about half an hour later, I made another stop for some fast food and a bathroom break. Being rather tired, I almost neglected to check the straps before driving away from that stop. Luckily, I checked the straps. The front two straps were OK but I quickly discovered that they were the only thing holding the car to the trailer. The back two straps had both snapped! I hesitate to think what would have happened if I had not checked those straps! I pulled out my good heavy tow straps and spent about an hour re-strapping the car to the trailer. I continued the trip south until 3 am, to get south of Washington DC, to avoid a lengthy delay on Monday morning with DC’s terrible weekday morning traffic congestion. As soon as I passed DC, I found a motel and got a much needed 4 hours of sleep. Monday morning, I completed the trip home, arriving at 1 pm, just in time to take my wife to lunch. After lunch, I unloaded the car. Being all alone and having a car with no battery, and no fuel supply made this an interesting task. Still being really tired, I might have not chosen the most logical way to do this but it worked. First, I removed all of the straps from the car. I then took one of the long tie down straps and secured it to the front bumper and to the trailer so that it would serve as a safety strap to stop the car from rolling much further than the end of the trailer. I simply pushed the car a little and it rolled off of the trailer, fairly straight. It stopped when it reached the end of the strap but the rear end was sitting a little bit out in the street, so I then simply pulled the truck and trailer forward a little bit to straighten the car up and get the rear end out of the street. I then unhooked the strap from the front bumper and tied a rope to the rear bumper. I then started using an old garden tiller to pull the car where I wanted it. That worked well until I attempted to pull it over the curb and into the driveway. The garden tiller simply did not have enough power for that task. I moved the tiller and pulled my 1937 Century out of the garage. I used bungee cords to secure an old tire to the back bumper of the project car to protect my 1937 Century in case of a collision. This proved to be an unnecessary precaution. With a few trips in and out of the project car to turn the steering wheel as needed, I was able to pull the project car into the place in front of the garage where I wanted it. This task was complicated by to the fact that the driver’s door can’t be used due to the top hinge being rusted away. My plan is to clean it up as much as possible outside and air it out for a few days before putting it in the garage. I have removed the remains of the trunk shelf from the car and removed the mouse nest from the glove compartment and taken a lot of photos to document the car’s condition. My plan is to use a pressure washer to wash the car inside and out. I think that most of the spiders got blown away on the trip home, but I will feel better going over every square inch of the car with some high pressure water anyway. The body is a mess. The good thing about this car is the mechanical condition. It was in good mechanical condition before the previous owner died and it got left outside for a couple of decades. Al actually had the car running and I have seen and heard video of it driving in his yard. I have to add a temporary fuel supply and a battery and the car should run. I have either taken on an ambitious project, or else I might be a little bit misguided or maybe a little bit crazy. Time will tell. I am going to let the photos tell the rest of this story for this issue. I have already called Dave Tacheny and given him a heads up on what I am going to need. As soon as it get it cleaned up and some disassembly completed, I will be able to give him a complete list of what I need to try to complete this project. After I got it unloaded, I started searching for the source of the mousy odor. When I opened the glove compartment, I found at least one source of the odor. After removing all of the mouse nest, I found the remains of a box of 4 headlight bulbs and the missing radio knob. I thought the tire pressure label still being intact beside that mouse nest quite interesting. I know that I am going to need some good photos of someone else’s 1938 Century Model 61 trunk. Lots of stuff should be quite similar to my 1937 Century, but that area is not. The trunk is what I think is going to be one of the most challenging thing for me to repair. Wish me luck, I am going to need it! The first few photos show the car at Al Proctor's house, including one with Al. The rest show the condition upon arrival at my home, up to the point that I was pulling it into its temporary parking position in the driveway of my house. For anybody who owns a Straight 8 Buick, I would invite you to join ther 36-38 Buick Club. Members of the 36-38 Buick Club will get a detailed view of the restoration of this car in the club newsletter. I will attempt to share a good portion of it here but probably won't have time to go into as much detail here as I do in the newsletter. I am also posting photos as things progress in a facebook photo album so that Al Proctor's son Chris can see them and share them with Al easily.
  5. The window moldings on a Century have different decorative trim than the windows moldings on a Special, so I am attempting to repair the Century window moldings so that the car will be correct. The Special moldings are in great shape, but the 20+ years outside in Massachusetts resulted in a bit of rust damage to the Century's window moldings. This morning, I cleaned up most of the window moldings. Three of the moldings have significant rust damage. I repaired one of them today. First I cleaned up all of the rust with a wire wheel, sandpaper and steel wood. At this point, I decided to take some photos, so the "before" photos are after the initial clean up. I then welded up the rusted out holes. My welding technique is not very good. My typical technique is start to weld on the lowest setting on my wirefeed welder, manage to burn a larger hole in the thin rusty area surrounding the original small hole. Build up a large thick puddle of ugly weld. Spend more time using an angle grinder to get rid of the pile of weld, touch up any missed points with the welder, grind down the new pile of metal, and eventually get to the point that I can sand it. Finally, clean it up and spray it with primer. The after photos are not that good, but I think you will at least be able to see that I managed to get rid of the rusted out holes in the moldings. I finished one today. Tomorrow, I will have to take the day off from the Buick project as I plan to attend the funeral of a local AACA Chapter member tomorrow morning.
  6. Coming back to being an editor

    The current VP of Publications is Mary Bartemeyer. I would suggest you either send her an email or else contact Pat Buckley at AACA headquarters and ask her for an application. If you do nothing, I think that when your 2018 Region Officer Reporting Forum goes to headquarters with you listed as the editor, that we result in the application being send to you.
  7. This morning, I had a short time available to work on the Buick. I decided to get started on the dash panel. A previous owner had drilled a large extra hole in the dash for an aftermarket starter button. I really don't like incorrect switches or buttons or extra holes in the face of a car dash. My father was a welder. I do have a small wire feed welder but I am certainly not a talented welder. I welded a washer to the back side of the hole, turned the panel over, and managed to add a fairly ugly puddle of weld to fill up the smaller hole in the washer and fill the larger hole up to bring the surrounding area up to the level of the section of the dash. I then was able to use an angle grinder, followed up with an orbital sander to level the surface area of the repaired area of the dash. I then sanded the entire face of the dash panel, cleaned it up and applied a coat of dark gray primer to the dash.
  8. Judging for Newbies

    The National Website has National Events. This weekend's event is a North Carolina Region event, with a National Judging School as part of the event. Maybe a bit confusing but you would have to look on the NC Region website to find it online.
  9. Judging for Newbies

    Yes, If you want to attend the AACA Annual Meeting, any member can attend the Judging school at Philly. The same instructor will also be giving the Judging School at the NC Region Annual meeting in Burlington, NC if you can't make it to Philadelphia.
  10. Changing Title Below Display Name

    Mine looks different using a Windows 7 machine on Chrome. It could be some incompatibility between your operating system, browser software, or some glitch in the forum software regarding your profile. I don't know what the problem is. If you will simply tell me what you want it to be, I will be happy to change it for you.
  11. We have had a bit of rain to wash away the remains of the recent road salt treatments from our recent unusual winter storm, so on Saturday I drove the 1937 Century to lunch. We also took it to the gas station for a tank of Non-Ethanol fuel and took about a 10 mile or so drive around town just because I had not had a chance to drive it in a few weeks.
  12. Changing Title Below Display Name

    1.Click on your user name in top right corner of the page. 2. Choose profile on drop down menu. 3. Near the top right corner of the screen (on the top right corner of your cover photo if you have one), just under "unread content" is a grayed out "edit profile" button. Click "edit profile". 4. The first item under Basic Info is "Member Title". Type desired member title in that box, scroll down and click on "Save".
  13. 1937 Buick Roadmaster 81F Formal Sedan

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. While I think that the asking price as well as the quoted "restored" value is a bit higher than similar cars have been selling for recently. I would be happy to help you get some exposure in another likely place to find a buyer. If you check out the 36-38 Buick Club website, you will find a contact form to contact the webmaster. I am the webmaster and newsletter editor for the 36-38 Buick Club. With a bit of additional information and some additional photos, I can list it on the Advertisements page of the club website as well as publish it in the next issue of the Torque Tube II, newsletter of the 36-38 Buick Club. The club's website is: http://www.3638buickclub.org/
  14. Gary, I have no personal experience with this subject (yet). Surprisingly, it is not in the Fisher body manual. It is however explained on page 11-2 of the 1937 Shop Manual.
  15. Changing Title Below Display Name

    You seem to have modified it to read your name.
  16. Is a Speedster eligible for Reliability tour?

    I toyed with the idea of creating a speedster or pickup out of a 1938 Buick Special chassis since I have an extra one from the body donor car for my current restoration. I hope to find someone who needs the chassis so I won't be tempted to do that. It would be a lot of extra work for something that I won't really have storage space for anyway.
  17. Is a Speedster eligible for Reliability tour?

    There are a lot of neat and interesting vehicles that are not eligible for AACA events. I don't specifically know the answer to your question and I would suggest that you contact AACA headquarters. I am sure they will give you an answer or refer you to the appropriate individual for an answer. If I was to guess, I would say that this is the information that might help you figure it out. From the Policy and Procedure Manual - "Reliability Tour--The Reliability Tour is sponsored during even-numbered years for brass era cars, i.e., those manufactured in 1915 or earlier. This includes all recognized vehicles of that vintage." So, what is a recognized vehicle of that vintage? For AACA purposes, I would think that the most appropriate category of vehicle that a Speedster might be would be a DPC vehicle. The Policy and Procedure Manual describes DPC as follows: "The DPC (Driver Participation Class) is for vehicles with minor modifications 25 years or older that have not obtained a national first prize. (A vehicle with national awards is eligible for DPC only if the awards – other than 2nd or 3rd Junior – are turned into AACA Headquarters.) Certification will be based on vehicle components that must have the same appearance as when the vehicle was manufactured. The body/engine/chassis/driveline components must be period correct per the original manufacturer. Exceptions could be halogen headlights, FM radio, seat belts, turn signals, and/or air conditioning units from the period. Originality of all components is more important than their condition. This is a noncompetitive category and will not be judged but will be eligible for driver certification. A driver tab will be issued to each vehicle upon certification; a participation award will be given at certification and at each subsequent meet for attendance. A DPC certified vehicles that is significantly modified will lose its’ DPC certification. DPC certification remains with the vehicle even if there is a change of ownership." I would suggest that the operative words are "vehicle components that must have the same appearance as when the vehicle was manufactured." Did Ford manufacture a 1915 or earlier Model T with a Speedster style body? If I was attempting to answer your question, my answer would be Yes or No, depending on the answer to that question. If Ford manufactured a 1915 or earlier T with a speedster type body, it should be tour eligible. If not, then I would say it is not tour eligible. Brent, I think I know the answer to my question. I will defer to you and the other Model T experts on the forum.
  18. Part needed for 1941 Buick Special

    Their 1936-1941 Buick Parts typically come from Dave Tacheny. I don't know about their other sources for other types of cars. In regards to 1937 or 1938 Buick parts (which is what I have personal experience with) after comparing the quality and prices, I recommend people contact Dave.
  19. This morning, I did a bit of touch up painting on the frame. After that, I removed the back window frame. I then removed all of the hardware that was attached to the dash panel. The dash panel from the Special has one extra added hole that I will have to weld up, but overall is in much better condition than the original Century dash panel. I then decided that it was time to do some garage organizing and clean up. I removed the stack of parts that I had been taking up a lot of space on my work bench recently. I organized the boxes of Buick parts a bit and stacked all of the window moldings and dash panel together so I can hopefully do some metal repair and woodgraining soon. I cleaned up my workbench and the back area of the garage where I am doing the restoration. After cleaning and sweeping the area, I now have a nice area to work on the Buick project again.
  20. Changing Title Below Display Name

    This was recently answered here:
  21. Part needed for 1941 Buick Special

    I don't know if you realize it or not but they buy most or all of their parts and Parts cars from Dave Tacheny. When you deal with them, you are usually getting Dave's castoffs, or at best, you are paying higher prices than you could buy the part direct from Dave.
  22. Part needed for 1941 Buick Special

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I would suspect that Dave Tacheny would be the most likely source of that part. He is the leading 1936-1941 Buick parts supplier. You can reach him by phone between 4 pm and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460.
  23. What Do You Use in Your Parts Cleaner?

    I went to my local NAPA and bought a 5 gallon bucket of what they had in stock. I poured about half of it in my parts washer and it has worked well for me. I have cleaned about everything needed on my current restoration project and have not changed the fluid so far. I think this is what I bought : https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCR6510
  24. This morning, I had a little bit of time to work on the Buick, although in another unusual occurrance, I had another customer with an engraving order that I had to make today and send overnight by UPS. Today, UPS still had some computer issues but it only took about 15 minutes to send the package today. It is a lot more fun working on the body that was not left outside for a couple of decades. None of the hardware needed any solvent today. I was able to remove the windshield molding, the dash, and the dash pad. After removing the dash pad, I was able to pop out the rivets holding the body data plate. I thought it was interesting to see the differences between the Model 41 body data plate and the Model 61 body data plate. I guess Fisher Body did not think there were enough Century's made to justify embossing the model number on the data plate. The Model 41 data plate has the model number embossed while the Model 61 plate has the model number hand stamped.