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Everything posted by MCHinson

  1. MCHinson

    Lost Topic-Can Anyone Help?

    If you deleted it, I am not aware of any way to restore it. You should email Peter to ask him if there is any way to restore it from a backup. I have no idea if that is possible, or what the cost would be if it were. Peter is the only one who can answer that question. Send him an email.
  2. MCHinson

    Lost Topic-Can Anyone Help?

    There is no discussion with that title on this site. There is no recent indication in the administrative logs of any of the admin staff deleting it in the time frame that you asked Peter about it disappearing. Is it possible that you accidentally deleted it? If the original poster deletes a discussion, it would not appear in the admin logs. That is the most likely way that it could have disappeared. If not, it must be some glitch in the forum software that deleted it, although I am not aware of that ever happening before.
  3. MCHinson

    Lost Topic-Can Anyone Help?

    Is it possible that you have had two separate user names on the forum and you are searching for only your own posts under your current user name? You could not have posted anything in 2013 under this profile since your current profile was created on June 2, 2014.
  4. This morning, I removed the louver panel from the other engine side panel. I buffed it like I did the other one.
  5. I have owned a 1937 Buick Model 61 for a few years. I enjoy driving it on a regular basis. I am also the newsletter editor for the 36-38 Buick Club. I arrived home with the project car on August 14th. This initial post covers the acquisition of this project and my trip home with the car. I have done a lot of work on antique cars and I have helped others with various antique car jobs. I have owned a number of antique automobiles over the last couple of decades but I have never completed a total restoration on an antique automobile. I have always thought that I should do at least one total restoration in my life. I blame Gary Wheeler for posting his amazing restoration work in the Pre-War Buick Forum. He makes it look really easy. He got me thinking that I really should restore a car. It also does not help that every other month, I have a deadline to publish the Torque Tube II and not enough other members are sending me technical articles, photos, or other Straight 8 material for me to fill the magazine easily. A fellow club member made me aware of a project car for sale. The car was a 1938 Buick Model 61. The price was really reasonable. Since I have a 1937 Model 61, it seemed a logical project for me to take on. It would mean I was working on something very similar to what I was familiar with, and it would be nice to have a pair of sequential year Model 61 Buicks. The story on the car is that it was purchased in the 1990’s by a retired police officer from Brockton, Massachusetts. He planned to enjoy the antique car hobby in his retirement. He took the car to Al Proctor, who had a garage where he worked on old cars at the time. Al went through the car and fixed everything it needed except paint, as he was not a painter. Al delivered the car to the retired police officer and never heard from him again. In 2016, Al and a friend were driving around scouting for old cars on a Sunday afternoon and happened to see an old Buick. Al eventually tracked down the property owner and got a chance to see the car closer. The more Al looked at the car, the more familiar it looked. It was the car he had worked on in the 1990’s. Al spoke with the owner and discovered that she was the daughter of the previous owner who had Al work on the car. Apparently, he died in 1993, and the family left the car outside on various family owned properties from 1993 until Al discovered it in 2016. The Massachusetts weather was not kind to the car. Al was able to convince the owner to let him buy and attempt to save the car. Cosmetically the car is a disaster, but mechanically it should be easy to restore. Al said he hooked up a battery and a temporary fuel supply and had the car running about 15 minutes after he got it home. After Al’s son sent me a few photos and videos of the car running and driving, I decided to buy the car. His asking price was so low, I did not even try to talk him down at all. The only problem that I had was I am in Southeastern North Carolina and the car was near Boston, Massachusetts. A few years ago, I had made a decision to sell my tow vehicle and trailer as I never intended to again have an antique car that I would not drive anywhere I wanted to go. I began searching for a vehicle that I can buy that can serve as a tow vehicle. I found a few Chevrolet Suburbans for sale locally, so after a bit of research, I was ready to buy a used Suburban. I had previously been offered the use of local AACA and 36-38 Buick Club member Jeff Oaks’ trailer as well as a trailer owned by another friend and former coworker. I was talking with the other friend and told him about the delay in being able to buy the motorhome and that I had decided I could not put the trip off much more and was going to buy a used Suburban. He told me, “You don’t need to do that. I just bought a 2012 Dodge Ram 350 truck that you can use. Why don’t you just borrow my truck and trailer?” I could not argue with his logic so I agreed. It takes a special friend to loan you a truck that was so recently purchased that it still had the temporary 30 day license tag on it and a trailer that he had owned for only a few months, for a 1,700 mile round trip. I arranged for some friends and neighbors to look after my disabled wife’s meals during my absence and planned the trip so that I could complete it quickly during a less traveled weekend to avoid traffic congestion, primarily in the Washington, DC and NYC areas. I picked up my friend’s truck and trailer on Saturday, August 12 and left Wilmington at 6 pm. I drove until about 2 am Sunday morning, stopped at a motel for a few hours of sleep. After that stop, I continued my trip making only necessary stops for quick meals and bathroom breaks as needed. I arrived in Abington, Massachusetts, at 3 pm on Sunday, August 13th. My friend’s trailer is equipped with E-track rails. He had a set of brand new E-clip straps that were still in the packaging. The trailer did not have any D rings so I decided to go ahead and use the E-track hardware and his new straps instead of my own straps. By 4:15 pm, we had the car loaded and strapped down, and I started south. At my first stop on the trip for fuel, a couple of hours into the trip, I checked the trailer straps and everything was OK. The station’s bathrooms were out of order, so about half an hour later, I made another stop for some fast food and a bathroom break. Being rather tired, I almost neglected to check the straps before driving away from that stop. Luckily, I checked the straps. The front two straps were OK but I quickly discovered that they were the only thing holding the car to the trailer. The back two straps had both snapped! I hesitate to think what would have happened if I had not checked those straps! I pulled out my good heavy tow straps and spent about an hour re-strapping the car to the trailer. I continued the trip south until 3 am, to get south of Washington DC, to avoid a lengthy delay on Monday morning with DC’s terrible weekday morning traffic congestion. As soon as I passed DC, I found a motel and got a much needed 4 hours of sleep. Monday morning, I completed the trip home, arriving at 1 pm, just in time to take my wife to lunch. After lunch, I unloaded the car. Being all alone and having a car with no battery, and no fuel supply made this an interesting task. Still being really tired, I might have not chosen the most logical way to do this but it worked. First, I removed all of the straps from the car. I then took one of the long tie down straps and secured it to the front bumper and to the trailer so that it would serve as a safety strap to stop the car from rolling much further than the end of the trailer. I simply pushed the car a little and it rolled off of the trailer, fairly straight. It stopped when it reached the end of the strap but the rear end was sitting a little bit out in the street, so I then simply pulled the truck and trailer forward a little bit to straighten the car up and get the rear end out of the street. I then unhooked the strap from the front bumper and tied a rope to the rear bumper. I then started using an old garden tiller to pull the car where I wanted it. That worked well until I attempted to pull it over the curb and into the driveway. The garden tiller simply did not have enough power for that task. I moved the tiller and pulled my 1937 Century out of the garage. I used bungee cords to secure an old tire to the back bumper of the project car to protect my 1937 Century in case of a collision. This proved to be an unnecessary precaution. With a few trips in and out of the project car to turn the steering wheel as needed, I was able to pull the project car into the place in front of the garage where I wanted it. This task was complicated by to the fact that the driver’s door can’t be used due to the top hinge being rusted away. My plan is to clean it up as much as possible outside and air it out for a few days before putting it in the garage. I have removed the remains of the trunk shelf from the car and removed the mouse nest from the glove compartment and taken a lot of photos to document the car’s condition. My plan is to use a pressure washer to wash the car inside and out. I think that most of the spiders got blown away on the trip home, but I will feel better going over every square inch of the car with some high pressure water anyway. The body is a mess. The good thing about this car is the mechanical condition. It was in good mechanical condition before the previous owner died and it got left outside for a couple of decades. Al actually had the car running and I have seen and heard video of it driving in his yard. I have to add a temporary fuel supply and a battery and the car should run. I have either taken on an ambitious project, or else I might be a little bit misguided or maybe a little bit crazy. Time will tell. I am going to let the photos tell the rest of this story for this issue. I have already called Dave Tacheny and given him a heads up on what I am going to need. As soon as it get it cleaned up and some disassembly completed, I will be able to give him a complete list of what I need to try to complete this project. After I got it unloaded, I started searching for the source of the mousy odor. When I opened the glove compartment, I found at least one source of the odor. After removing all of the mouse nest, I found the remains of a box of 4 headlight bulbs and the missing radio knob. I thought the tire pressure label still being intact beside that mouse nest quite interesting. I know that I am going to need some good photos of someone else’s 1938 Century Model 61 trunk. Lots of stuff should be quite similar to my 1937 Century, but that area is not. The trunk is what I think is going to be one of the most challenging thing for me to repair. Wish me luck, I am going to need it! The first few photos show the car at Al Proctor's house, including one with Al. The rest show the condition upon arrival at my home, up to the point that I was pulling it into its temporary parking position in the driveway of my house. For anybody who owns a Straight 8 Buick, I would invite you to join ther 36-38 Buick Club. Members of the 36-38 Buick Club will get a detailed view of the restoration of this car in the club newsletter. I will attempt to share a good portion of it here but probably won't have time to go into as much detail here as I do in the newsletter. I am also posting photos as things progress in a facebook photo album so that Al Proctor's son Chris can see them and share them with Al easily.
  6. MCHinson

    38 Century Coupe MPLS- Price reduced- NOT MINE

    Yes, That appears to be Corot Beige which is a correct 1938 Buick color.
  7. MCHinson

    1936 Plymouth Parts wanted

    Rick Rien, Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I have edited your topic to include 1936 Plymouth to make it more likely that people who can help you take the time to read your post.
  8. I really think that the paint coverage on the panel would be better if it were disassembled, but I am sort of thinking that it might be smarter to tape them off and paint them without disassembly. I guess it just depends on how much time I have when it gets to that job. I guess I could do a practice assembly on the disassembled one from the Model 67 that I just picked up and then make a decision on which way to go.
  9. It has been an odd week. Between the time spent on the recent Model 67 and how unusually busy my business has been for the past couple of weeks, I have not had any time to work on the Buick until today. While I hate the delay, it is a good problem to have, since the increased business will help pay for the restoration. I have really been wanting to get back on the Buick project but I have decided that it would be better to pay an experienced metal worker to repair the rusted out sections on the door skins and the small rusty sections of the rocker panel. This should speed up these repairs. I am waiting for the metal worker to be able to get my project onto his schedule, but it should happen soon. I previously purchased a set of engine side panels on ebay. They are in much better condition than the originals. They had been painted a really odd light green color. The bright trim on the louver section had quite a bit of the light green paint overspray on them. This morning, I started doing some initial buffing on one of the louver panels. I forgot to take a "before" photo until I had done a bit of initial buffing on the panel. It soon became apparent that I needed to remove the lover panel from the engine side panel to effectively buff it. The louver panel is held into the engine side panel with steel split rivets. I started to grind them off, but decided that I did not want to take a chance of the small air grinder slipping and causing unnecessary damage. I figured out that I could use a small screwdriver to slide under one of the bent legs of the rivet and pry up one of the legs, then grab it with some small angle cutters to bend it upward almost straight. This would release enough tension to allow me to grab the other leg with the angle cutters and bend it up enough so that I could use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the legs in enough to remove the rivets. I also removed and buffed the hood release handle. After removing the rivets, the louver panel slid out of the engine side panel so that I could easily buff the panels bright trim. I wanted to buff the thin chrome trim while still attached to the louver panel so that I did not take a chance of mangling the thin trim with the buffing wheel. I still need to decide if I want to carefully tape off the chrome trim and paint the louver panels or if I want to disassemble, paint, and reassemble the louver panels. The painting would be easier if they are disassembled but the disassembly and reassembly looks like it will not be much fun. I have seen a lot of stalled projects recently. They all seem to have the louvers totally disassembled. I have not seen a louver panel on a stalled project where the owner actually go to the point of reassembly of the louver panel. The initial buffing cleaned up the panel well. It looks as good or better in person than it does in the photos. I never seem to be able to take good photos of chrome, due to odd reflections in the chrome.
  10. Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. You have already received some great advice from others. I would also suggest that you join a local AACA Region or Chapter in your area. In the local club, you can probably find an experienced AACA Judge. An experienced judge will often be happy to go over your car with you and identify any minor easily fixed issues that you can correct before you go to a show for judging. An experienced Judge can also give you his or her best opinion, based on close observation of your car and a discussion of your goals, about the choice on whether you want to enter the car in Class Judging, Driver Particpation Class, or Historical Preservation of Original Features. It is difficult to give you advice on that without a direct look at the car and a conversation. A local judge can do that for you.
  11. MCHinson

    1938 Special rear shocks

    The top of the shocks are held in place with "C Clips". Compressing the rubber bushings are a bit difficult. I think that comment #188 on page 8 of my 1938 Century restoration should help you with your question.
  12. Paul, If you want their 2N material, you might as well wait a while. If you want any other material, I would not be concerned. I think they said it would take 6 to 8 weeks to produce my kit. My kit was ordered on 4-26-18. It was delivered on 6-18-18.
  13. Just got through skimming through all of your posts in this discussion. Nice work. I guess I now have another one that I have to read daily. I will especially be looking forward to your post in about 3 or 4 days, but I won't spill the beans on why.
  14. MCHinson

    When Did BCA Fees go to $50 per year?

    John, After reading all of the board minutes on the BCA website I do have some concerns about the operation of the organization. Since the bylaws call for publishing the report each year and the report has not been published since 2014, it is very difficult to have an informed opinion of what the real situation is. A large number of questions have been asked by board members that are difficult to evaluate without at least knowing what the real numbers are for all of those years. As a member of the organization, I am simply asking questions. For some reason, some members of the organization seem offended when a fellow member asks questions about financial issues. That was apparently the case back in 2009 when someone else started this discussion. It was apparent recently when someone bumped it up to the top, and it is apparent from a few of the responses, phone calls, and emails that I have received after adding my own questions to this old discussion.
  15. MCHinson

    When Did BCA Fees go to $50 per year?

    Thanks. I am just surprised that those circumstances have taken over 3 years to overcome, since the last one was published in 2014. I am sure that a lot of folks are looking forward to seeing the 2015, 2016, and 2017 financial reports soon.
  16. MCHinson


    Dave, If you will send me an email with your ad text listing parts, maybe some photos, and prices for the parts, I will be happy to advertise these in the Torque Tube II for you.
  17. MCHinson

    When Did BCA Fees go to $50 per year?

    John, Not trying to be argumentative, but I agree fully with that statement. How can the membership get the board to do that? That would have solved a lot of the problem with members being upset about their lack of knowledge on this subject.
  18. MCHinson

    1938 Chevy Park Brakes

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I don't have any information Chevrolet parts suppliers for that era. I am very familiar with 1938 Buicks. While the cable on the Buick is a bit different where it attaches to the main emergency brake cable coming from the front of the car, the parts that you are looking for look identical or nearly identical to those found in 1938 Buicks. If I was looking for those for a Buick, I would call Dave Tacheny. You can best reach him between 4 and 6 pm Central at 763-427-3460. Here are photos of what the Buick parts looked like when I disassembled them on my 1938 Buick Century restoration.
  19. MCHinson

    1941 Special engine dies when warmed up

    The recent discussion was about a 1938 320 in a Century. I would suspect the routing to be similar but I have no idea if it is the same.
  20. Thanks Rodney, When I look back at the past few weeks, I feel like I really need to get moving forward but I also realize that the project has still come a long way in less than a year. I just finished the next issue of the Torque Tube II. I am also covering this story in the magazine. The magazine version is so far behind that when I write each installment for the magazine, it is odd looking back and rediscovering my own story through old posts that seem so far back that I have often almost forgotten what I have done.
  21. I have been spending more time on the Model 67 lately than the Model 61. I have been cleaning it up a bit. I have washed out the interior a few times with a garden hose. I removed most of the upholstery materials from the rear seats and washed the remaining upholstery pieces a couple of times. I have left the car in the back yard with the back seat out of it, and attempted to get all of the upholstery still in the car to air out and dry out in the sun, driving the car around to maximize sun exposure on different areas over the past several days. Unfortunately, every time it gets almost dry, we seem to get an afternoon thunder storm which gets it all wet and we start the process over again. Hopefully I will get the Model 67 to a point that I can leave it alone for a while soon. I had the best of intentions to do some work on the Model 61 today. I planned to disassemble the engine side panels for some minor repair this morning. Just before I got started on that, I received a large engraving order from one of my regular customers. That bumped the Model 61 job back another day. I can't justify putting off work that I get paid for just because I want to work on my car project. Hopefully tomorrow will go better. This afternoon, UPS dropped off my interior kit from LeBaron Bonney in two large boxes. I need to go through it to make sure there are no problems and nothing missing, but that will have to wait for another day. Today, I did open up the two boxes and pull a few things out to get a quick peek at them. The nice new upholstery materials certainly look and smell better than those I took out of the car a while back.
  22. MCHinson

    1941 Special engine dies when warmed up

    Your current problem sounds like vapor lock due to engine heat heating up the fuel lines. Are the fuel lines in their original position? If someone moved them closer to the engine block, that can cause this problem. Today's fuels, especially those with ethanol also boil more easily than the fuels back in the day. For solving this problem in my 1937 Century, I avoid ethanol fuel when possible. I also have made sure that my fuel pump is rebuilt and operating properly. I have an auxiliary electric fuel pump located near the fuel tank which is activated by a switch that can be reached by the driver. I almost never have to use the electric pump when using non-ethanol fuel. When I am touring and only have access to fuel with ethanol in hot weather I typically have to run the electric pump quite a bit. I would rebuld the mechanical fuel pump. I would try to avoid fuel with ethanol. I would make sure that the lines are no closer to the engine block than they were originally. I would put the electric fuel pump switch where you can reach it when driving. That should solve this problem.
  23. MCHinson

    Oiling a frame to prevent rust

    While I suspect it would be better than nothing, Ospho would be a better choice although perhaps a bit harder to work with.
  24. MCHinson

    Survey on Classic Car Community Engagement

    Since the company does not want to be identified, I will honor that request. In the interest of calming any potential concern among some of our forum members, I will simply report that as an adminstrator on this site, I can see the email address of the CCIntern and I will simply say that without identifying the company, the email address is associated with one of the companies that is a large player in the antique automobile insurance company.
  25. While some people still seem to think that you have to "upgrade" a car for reliability, a few weeks back I was going to tow my 1937 Buick from Wilmington NC to Auburn IN for the 36-38 Buick Club tour and the Auburn AACA Meet. When the 2014 Ford F250 Super Duty tow vehicle died 2 hours into the trip, I off loaded the Buick and drove it 702 miles to my destination. I then drove it around the area for several days putting another 300 or so miles on it. This is a 6 volt car with bias ply tires. They were used as daily transportation when they were new and with proper maintenance and proper repairs when needed, they can still do that quite effectively.