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Everything posted by MCHinson

  1. I have owned a 1937 Buick Model 61 for a few years. I enjoy driving it on a regular basis. I am also the newsletter editor for the 36-38 Buick Club. I arrived home with the project car on August 14th. This initial post covers the acquisition of this project and my trip home with the car. I have done a lot of work on antique cars and I have helped others with various antique car jobs. I have owned a number of antique automobiles over the last couple of decades but I have never completed a total restoration on an antique automobile. I have always thought that I should do at least one total restoration in my life. I blame Gary Wheeler for posting his amazing restoration work in the Pre-War Buick Forum. He makes it look really easy. He got me thinking that I really should restore a car. It also does not help that every other month, I have a deadline to publish the Torque Tube II and not enough other members are sending me technical articles, photos, or other Straight 8 material for me to fill the magazine easily. A fellow club member made me aware of a project car for sale. The car was a 1938 Buick Model 61. The price was really reasonable. Since I have a 1937 Model 61, it seemed a logical project for me to take on. It would mean I was working on something very similar to what I was familiar with, and it would be nice to have a pair of sequential year Model 61 Buicks. The story on the car is that it was purchased in the 1990’s by a retired police officer from Brockton, Massachusetts. He planned to enjoy the antique car hobby in his retirement. He took the car to Al Proctor, who had a garage where he worked on old cars at the time. Al went through the car and fixed everything it needed except paint, as he was not a painter. Al delivered the car to the retired police officer and never heard from him again. In 2016, Al and a friend were driving around scouting for old cars on a Sunday afternoon and happened to see an old Buick. Al eventually tracked down the property owner and got a chance to see the car closer. The more Al looked at the car, the more familiar it looked. It was the car he had worked on in the 1990’s. Al spoke with the owner and discovered that she was the daughter of the previous owner who had Al work on the car. Apparently, he died in 1993, and the family left the car outside on various family owned properties from 1993 until Al discovered it in 2016. The Massachusetts weather was not kind to the car. Al was able to convince the owner to let him buy and attempt to save the car. Cosmetically the car is a disaster, but mechanically it should be easy to restore. Al said he hooked up a battery and a temporary fuel supply and had the car running about 15 minutes after he got it home. After Al’s son sent me a few photos and videos of the car running and driving, I decided to buy the car. His asking price was so low, I did not even try to talk him down at all. The only problem that I had was I am in Southeastern North Carolina and the car was near Boston, Massachusetts. A few years ago, I had made a decision to sell my tow vehicle and trailer as I never intended to again have an antique car that I would not drive anywhere I wanted to go. I began searching for a vehicle that I can buy that can serve as a tow vehicle. I found a few Chevrolet Suburbans for sale locally, so after a bit of research, I was ready to buy a used Suburban. I had previously been offered the use of local AACA and 36-38 Buick Club member Jeff Oaks’ trailer as well as a trailer owned by another friend and former coworker. I was talking with the other friend and told him about the delay in being able to buy the motorhome and that I had decided I could not put the trip off much more and was going to buy a used Suburban. He told me, “You don’t need to do that. I just bought a 2012 Dodge Ram 350 truck that you can use. Why don’t you just borrow my truck and trailer?” I could not argue with his logic so I agreed. It takes a special friend to loan you a truck that was so recently purchased that it still had the temporary 30 day license tag on it and a trailer that he had owned for only a few months, for a 1,700 mile round trip. I arranged for some friends and neighbors to look after my disabled wife’s meals during my absence and planned the trip so that I could complete it quickly during a less traveled weekend to avoid traffic congestion, primarily in the Washington, DC and NYC areas. I picked up my friend’s truck and trailer on Saturday, August 12 and left Wilmington at 6 pm. I drove until about 2 am Sunday morning, stopped at a motel for a few hours of sleep. After that stop, I continued my trip making only necessary stops for quick meals and bathroom breaks as needed. I arrived in Abington, Massachusetts, at 3 pm on Sunday, August 13th. My friend’s trailer is equipped with E-track rails. He had a set of brand new E-clip straps that were still in the packaging. The trailer did not have any D rings so I decided to go ahead and use the E-track hardware and his new straps instead of my own straps. By 4:15 pm, we had the car loaded and strapped down, and I started south. At my first stop on the trip for fuel, a couple of hours into the trip, I checked the trailer straps and everything was OK. The station’s bathrooms were out of order, so about half an hour later, I made another stop for some fast food and a bathroom break. Being rather tired, I almost neglected to check the straps before driving away from that stop. Luckily, I checked the straps. The front two straps were OK but I quickly discovered that they were the only thing holding the car to the trailer. The back two straps had both snapped! I hesitate to think what would have happened if I had not checked those straps! I pulled out my good heavy tow straps and spent about an hour re-strapping the car to the trailer. I continued the trip south until 3 am, to get south of Washington DC, to avoid a lengthy delay on Monday morning with DC’s terrible weekday morning traffic congestion. As soon as I passed DC, I found a motel and got a much needed 4 hours of sleep. Monday morning, I completed the trip home, arriving at 1 pm, just in time to take my wife to lunch. After lunch, I unloaded the car. Being all alone and having a car with no battery, and no fuel supply made this an interesting task. Still being really tired, I might have not chosen the most logical way to do this but it worked. First, I removed all of the straps from the car. I then took one of the long tie down straps and secured it to the front bumper and to the trailer so that it would serve as a safety strap to stop the car from rolling much further than the end of the trailer. I simply pushed the car a little and it rolled off of the trailer, fairly straight. It stopped when it reached the end of the strap but the rear end was sitting a little bit out in the street, so I then simply pulled the truck and trailer forward a little bit to straighten the car up and get the rear end out of the street. I then unhooked the strap from the front bumper and tied a rope to the rear bumper. I then started using an old garden tiller to pull the car where I wanted it. That worked well until I attempted to pull it over the curb and into the driveway. The garden tiller simply did not have enough power for that task. I moved the tiller and pulled my 1937 Century out of the garage. I used bungee cords to secure an old tire to the back bumper of the project car to protect my 1937 Century in case of a collision. This proved to be an unnecessary precaution. With a few trips in and out of the project car to turn the steering wheel as needed, I was able to pull the project car into the place in front of the garage where I wanted it. This task was complicated by to the fact that the driver’s door can’t be used due to the top hinge being rusted away. My plan is to clean it up as much as possible outside and air it out for a few days before putting it in the garage. I have removed the remains of the trunk shelf from the car and removed the mouse nest from the glove compartment and taken a lot of photos to document the car’s condition. My plan is to use a pressure washer to wash the car inside and out. I think that most of the spiders got blown away on the trip home, but I will feel better going over every square inch of the car with some high pressure water anyway. The body is a mess. The good thing about this car is the mechanical condition. It was in good mechanical condition before the previous owner died and it got left outside for a couple of decades. Al actually had the car running and I have seen and heard video of it driving in his yard. I have to add a temporary fuel supply and a battery and the car should run. I have either taken on an ambitious project, or else I might be a little bit misguided or maybe a little bit crazy. Time will tell. I am going to let the photos tell the rest of this story for this issue. I have already called Dave Tacheny and given him a heads up on what I am going to need. As soon as it get it cleaned up and some disassembly completed, I will be able to give him a complete list of what I need to try to complete this project. After I got it unloaded, I started searching for the source of the mousy odor. When I opened the glove compartment, I found at least one source of the odor. After removing all of the mouse nest, I found the remains of a box of 4 headlight bulbs and the missing radio knob. I thought the tire pressure label still being intact beside that mouse nest quite interesting. I know that I am going to need some good photos of someone else’s 1938 Century Model 61 trunk. Lots of stuff should be quite similar to my 1937 Century, but that area is not. The trunk is what I think is going to be one of the most challenging thing for me to repair. Wish me luck, I am going to need it! The first few photos show the car at Al Proctor's house, including one with Al. The rest show the condition upon arrival at my home, up to the point that I was pulling it into its temporary parking position in the driveway of my house. For anybody who owns a Straight 8 Buick, I would invite you to join ther 36-38 Buick Club. Members of the 36-38 Buick Club will get a detailed view of the restoration of this car in the club newsletter. I will attempt to share a good portion of it here but probably won't have time to go into as much detail here as I do in the newsletter. I am also posting photos as things progress in a facebook photo album so that Al Proctor's son Chris can see them and share them with Al easily.
  2. Map light wiring Harness - 38 Century

    The owner's manual call for a #55 bulb for the map light. It uses the same bulb that is used in the instrument panel lights, clock, radio, and fender lights.
  3. Parts to buy

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I have moved your post to the Pre-War Buick section of the forum. I am sure you will find some good answers here.
  4. WTB 1953 Super Passenger Wing Window

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I have edited the title of your post to hopefully help you attract the attention to someone who might have what you are seeking.
  5. Starting today, my photos should look a little bit better since I am now using a refurbished Nikon D5100 that I recently bought on Ebay. My previous Nikon D3000 camera works fine in outdoor lighting but something happened to it some time back that causes flash photographs to not be illuminated properly as they used to be. Today I removed the front doors. The first step is to remove the nut from the door check strap. This is easy to do with the door open by simply using a wrench or a ratchet. It is important to remember to remove this before you remove the hinge pins. Trying to use a hammer and a punch to remove hinge pins previously was difficult. It is difficult to hold a punch on the bottom of the hinge pin when it sticks down below the surface of the hinge. This morning I tried a few other methods of removing door hinge pins. I am sure that the best way would be to use a hinge pin remover that is large enough to fit these hinge pins. I will not mention the couple of ways I tried that did not work well but here is the easiest way that I have found with the tools that I have. Holding an old sledge hammer head that I had against the bottom of the hinge pin and strking it with a few blows from another hammer forces the hinge pin upwards slightly until the bottom of the pin is flush with the surface of the bottom of the hinge. After the initial movement, it is then quite easy to take a punch and tap the pin upwards and out of the hinge. The second photo is an attempt to demonstrate how this first step works since you really can't see it in the first photos. Even with a couple of other unsuccessful method attempts, I was able to remove the two front doors much more quickly than I was able to previously remove the two rear doors. These doors will take no or almost no metal work but I thought I should take them off to be better able to work on them.
  6. Gary, Before you get too far along, I would check with a carpet store. They probably have some carpet padding scraps that would work better than the foam from a fabric store. It might even be free since the size you need would be of no use to them. The higher end carpet padding is also a wool product that should vastly outlast any foam product.
  7. While it could have been removed and replaced incorrectly at some time in the past 80 or so years, the one car that I have that has the armrest ashtrays has the knobs towards the front. I would assume that those would have been in all two door sedans, but only one of my 3 four door sedans has the armrest ashtrays. The other two just have a large ashtray in the back of the center of the front seat back.
  8. baby lincoln grease/lubrication

    Since his original question was regarding lubrication, the grease discussion is appropriate. I will make the title a little more appropriate and he can start another generic discussion about the car if he wishes to do so.
  9. 1936 oil temperature regulator

    pont35cpe and Grimy, 50jetblack is correct it was a one year only 1936 320 engine feature. It might have been a good idea to attempt to cool the oil but it did not turn out to be that good of an idea. I have not seen one that was operable. I think that they probably all got disconnected fairly early.
  10. clutch problem

    I have no experience with a 1927 Buick but many years ago I had a similar situation with a stuck clutch on a 1929 Model A Ford that I bought. Following a tip from the Model A Ford Club website, I jacked up the rear of the car and put it on jack stands. I put it in gear (3rd if I remember correctly) and started it. After letting it run for a minute or so under slight acceleration, I then depressed the clutch pedal and then stomped on the brakes. The clutch (which was rusted to the flywheel from sitting for an extended time) broke free. I drove the car for several years and never had any problems with the clutch.
  11. Carburetor 38 Century

    To go with the photo above of the valve in my 1938 Century, here is a photo of the engine cold (heat on) position from my 1937 Century. I don't know if the bottom spring attachment is lined up like it should be but the manual indicates you bend the tab to get it adjusted as needed. It works fine like it is for me, so I have never changed anything about the spring attachment.
  12. Carburetor 38 Century

    Yes, that is my photo from my 1938 project. That is the engine cold position. The weight should be almost vertically up towards the top in that position. Your photos look like the valve in that aftermarket valve body was not welded but was held in position by two cotter pins or other steel pins that have rusted away. Match it all up to the service manual diagram and you will probably see some small rust stains that will show you how it was previously aligned. I would simply tack weld it, or I guess you could drill out the old pins and insert new pins. Mine in the photo above is an original one. It was rusted shut and the valve was loose, I was able to see where it was supposed to be and simpy tack weld it where the original welds had broken.
  13. Carburetor 38 Century

    I don't recall how it all bolts together but I think you are about to take it all apart. If you can get to the point where you can see the valve, you should be able to see where the original tack welds held it onto the shaft. Simply retack it in the original position and you should be fine. I think the confusing part is how the manual refers to the cold/hot condition. With "heat off" the weight should be a little less than 1/4 turn clockwise from vertical and the valve should be as shown in the service manual. Here are a couple of photos of the diagrams from the service manual. "Heat off" as I understand it, is referring to when the engine is Hot, and no additional heat is needed to heat up the incoming intake air. "Heat on" refers to when the engine is cold and the intake air is designed to be heated. To summarize, when the engine is cold, the weight should be nearly vertical and the valve should be diverting exhaust to the intake manifold. When the engine is hot, the weight should be turned not quite 1/4 turn clockwise from the vertical position and the flapper valve should be turned to divert the exhaust straight down and out to the exhaust system.
  14. Thanks. I might check it out a bit further. I still have a cheap needle type VOM in my on the road toolkit in the trunk of my 1937 Century.
  15. Correct 1935-1951 Tire Valve Stem Caps

    I should be there with my 1937 Century Model 61 in DPC. I will also be judging. I will try to find you sometime during the meet.
  16. Roger, The car was left outside for over 20 years and the original body had much more rust. This is a replacement body that I found that was in much better shape. I don't think I would have been able to repair the original body. It just had too much rust for me to deal with it.
  17. Carburetor 38 Century

    The Spring is quite stiff. If your spring looks like the one in Gary's photo, it is correct. I have never paid much attention to the valve in my 1937 Century but the car runs well. As I am putting my 1938 Century back together, I will check it out a bit more. With modern fuels, you could easily position the valve in the "hot" position and ignore it. The car might be a bit cold natured for a minute or so after start up, but it would run fine. I suspect if you are having some issues upon start up, it is probably related to the choke operation more so than the exhaust butterfly valve.
  18. Fuel Pump 1938 Century...

    I believe you will find that Kanter Auto Products offers a new reproduction fuel pump for your car. I rebuilt mine with a kit from Bob's Automobila, but the Kanter pump might be what you are looking for.
  19. Correct 1935-1951 Tire Valve Stem Caps

    Here is a source of reproduction ones. They are sold in packs of 5. I might not have noticed that they were sold in packs of 5. I am pretty sure I still have some extra ones. If you happen to be going to the Charlotte AACA Meet, or the 36-38 Buick Club tour, I could give bring you some if I can find them.
  20. This morning, I started attempting to remove the left rear door to be able to prepare for metal repair on the bottom of the door. Initially, the bottom hinge pin just did not want to move. I reapplied some solvent and gave it a bit of time. While I was waiting, I decided to work on the hand throttle cable due to a recent question about that in another discussion on the AACA Discussion Forum. When I removed it from the car, it was rusted solid. I have had it soaking in solvent in a gallon paint can for quite some time. I opened up the can and removed the cable this morning to find that the cable was no longer frozen. I used a wire wheel to clean the remaining rust off of the exterior of the cable assembly. I then used Spray on Galvanizing Compound to make the exterior of the cable assembly look like new and hung it up to dry. Later I checked and while I still need to get a replacement knob, the hand throttle cable looks and works great. After a while, I was able to finally remove the bottom hinge pin and then used an angle grinder to get rid of all signs of thin and rusty metal in the lower door skin. I then applied ospho liberally to the inside fo the door panel.
  21. An antique car for rent

    Narine, I have edited your profile to remove the suspicious link from your signature. You are unlikely to find a rental car from a hobbyist. You will be more likely to find one from a limousine service or car rental service that has antique cars and the necessary commercial insurance. To find one, you really should contact one in or near the city that you intend to need the car and you will have to specify an exact date and time for the rental to find one that is available at that time. A request with only a State and a Month is unlikely to find what you need.
  22. An antique car for rent

    Narine, Please convince me that your are serious. There are very few antique cars that were painted white when new. Your request certainly sounds a bit odd. Typically I like to welcome newcomers to the site, but someone with an IP address from Armenia who is looking for a white antique car for a wedding anniversary in the Arizona in June with a clickable link in their signature looks very much like a spammer to me.
  23. Carburetor 38 Century

    The bracket for the spring attaches to the bolt just below the flapper valve, shown in your photos just below the valve (where the exhaust pipe attaches to the exhaust manifold). It is shown in the diagram on page 6-42 of the 1938 Service Manual.
  24. 38 Century Hand Throttle

    Yes, The Hand Throttle knob is just under the left ashtray on the dash, just to the left of the steering wheel. Check out the diagram on page 7 of the 1938 Owner's Manual. The attachment to the carburetor is shown in a diagram on page 6-50 of the 1938 Service Manual.