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MCHinson

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Posts posted by MCHinson

  1. The advanced school is a fairly recent development. Years ago, you got the standard judging school or the team captain school. As a Team Captain and a guy with a little over 75 credits, I still try to take the basic judging school once a year if I can, although I do the Team Captain School first, the Advanced second, and then the basic one for the third judging school of the year. You only get one credit for one school a year, but taking as many as you can is a good thing. You will usually pick up at least one good thing in every school, typically that comes from the answer to a question from the audience. I would encourage you to attend as many judging schools as you can and take as many CJEs as you can and while it may take a few years, you will eventually qualify for the advanced school. Until that time, I would not worry about it. For the first few years, it is good to get the basics multiple times to reinforce those and the advanced school is probably not really the best choice for you quite yet.  While the schools are required and important, the most important part is the actual judging. Experience judging on the showfield with various teams is where you actually learn the most about judging. Welcome to the judging segment of the hobby and be sure to have fun with it!

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  2. While I can't speak for her and I don't remember exactly what she said, it was in response to a suggestion from an AACA member in the audience who was advocating for considering allowing restomods in the club. I feel confident in saying that there is no change of direction of AACA, and I do not expect to see any such change. In any open mic Q & A, the person conducting it has no idea before hand what members are going to ask or state. My recollection was that, just as with other questions and comments, she was attempting to be polite and appear agreeable with comments made by members, but I would not read too much into that off the cuff remark. During the weekend, she made a few other comments that I heard that also did not seem to have been that well thought out, and some of them were during a presentation that she should have been prepared for. It is very easy to open your mouth when you have a microphone in your hand and say something that might not be the best thing to say. I would not worry to much about an off the cuff comment. If you don't see it as a published proposal, but as a random comment by a single Director, there is no reason to worry as that does not signal any new direction for the club. 

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  3. 7 hours ago, Manu said:

    Hi.

     

    I rebuilt the thermostat housing and removed the bypass valve and replaced it with a freez plug. I then let the engine warm up in the stand until it was up to temperature. There is coolant in the cylinder head. But when I open or even remove the petcock on the side of the block, no coolant comes out. I have tried to clean and scrape out the hole mechanically but without success. Perhaps someone has an idea what I can do. I have discovered the product evaporust thermocure, but unfortunately it is not available in Luxembourg. Here is a video of the running engine. engine run

    A stiff wire inserted into the petcock hole after removing the petcock will usually allow  you to "rod" out the deposited crud there so that coolant will then drain out of the hole.  I also recommend a 1/4 hole in the freeze plug that replaced the bypass valve will allow enough coolant to flow past the "bypass valve" to the thermostat so that it can be heated up so that the thermostat will open normally so that coolant can flow as it is supposed to. 

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  4. If there is no cooling water circulating at all, it sounds like you have a bad water pump. If the water is circulating between the water pump and the radiator but not through the engine, you need to reinstall the thermostat and make sure the bypass valve is in place. The thermostat and bypass valve on this era of Buick both have to be in place to get the correct cooling circulation. 

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  5. I would try Dave Tacheny. You can best reach him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. If Dave does not have one, it might be a good time to join the 36-38 Buick Club. We have other members who advertise parts for sale in the club newsletter. My draft of the March/April issue of the club newsletter has a member who has a number of parts for sale, including a 1937 320 spark plug cover.  https://3638buickclub.org/

  6. That appears to be a Model 66C, 2 Door Converible Coupe with Rumble Seat, 4 passenger. You might be able to get it running and enjoy it as is, but most people would probably want to restore it. As a starting point for a restoration, that one looks to be in good condition. It is not my personal preference as far as body styles but if you want one of those, you should buy it. You likely won't find another as Buick only made 787 Model 66C's in 1937. I think that $15,000 is probably about the top of the market for that car in that condition, but there may be others who would be willing to pay more just because they want that particular body style and they can afford it. To restore the car will certainly cost more than you would ever recoup if you had to sell it, but buying that car is not going to be a logical decision, it would be an emotional one. Someone will buy it because they love it. 

  7. On 1/18/2024 at 5:18 AM, Tomas said:
    Hello
    I wonder if the knowledge is out there on what option differentiates a Buick 1936 Roadmaster 4dr Sedan series 81 vs Century or Special. So what was included in a Roadmaster from the factory that the others didn't have. For the slightly cheaper Buick wagons, they could choose extra equipment, but was there anything they couldn't choose that was included as standard in the Roadmaster?
    What I think I know what was standard equipment in a Roadmaster that the cheaper ones didn't have is:
    Other pattern on the interior (Door sides and sofas) There seem to be two different patterns, see pictures.
    Center armrest in the back seat
    Ashtrays for rear passengers
    Footrest for rear passengers
    Chrome strip on top of the headlights
    Splash guard on the rear bumper
     
    Could all models opt for the above equipment if the buyer wanted? Have anyone seen a Special or a Century with any of above options?
     
    Thanks / Tom

     

     

     

     

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. Since I have already answered you a few times on facebook, I am not going to rehash that discussion here. I don't recall if i suggested that you join the 36-38 Buick Club or not, so I would suggest that as a 1936 Roadmaster owner, you check out the club and consider joining. If you send me your email address by Private Message or else by using the contact the webmaster link on the 36-38 Buick Club website, I will be happy to send you a sample copy of a recent issue of the club newsletter. You can check out the club at: https://3638buickclub.org/

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  8. Bob,

     

    Thank you for the kind words. For the Tamiya #81027 Red paint, If I recall correctly, I purchased it from Amazon and I think it is made in China. If I recall correctly, it has both English and Chinese on the label. A google search shows up several other sources. For those who wish to see the issue with the Optima mounting plate article, it can be downloaded at this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-CQUEozwiHp5lZOqb_zFMuB7XZ9dKCFQ/view?usp=sharing

     

    For more information on the 36-38 Buick Club (Which is open to all Straight 8 era Buicks, check out https://3638buickclub.org/

     

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  9. 1 hour ago, NailheadBob said:

    @BuickTom87  Great article on Optima 6 Volt Battery and 6V Rigid clamp tray in the "Torque Tube II" 36-38 Buick Club magazine

     

    Here is where to get the battery tray: http://optimatrays.com 

     

    Included with the 6-Volt Rigid Clamp Tray:

    1 "solid style" bottom

    2 bottom clamps

    4 stainless steel fasteners for tray assembly

    4 stainless steel 3/8" mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

    4 stainless steel #10-24 mounting bolts with lock washers and nuts

    1 allen wrench to assemble the tray

    5 year warranty

     

     

    I am not sure if the tray is the same for your car as this is for a 1938 Buick.

     

    You may want to join the 3638buick club also specializes in Buick  straight 8's  (www.3638buickclub.org)

     

    Great information in all magazines from this club

     

    Bob

     

     

     

      If you can remind me which issue of the Torque Tube II that article appeared in, I can post a link where anybody can download that issue to make it a bit easier for them.  

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  10. On 1/15/2024 at 1:18 PM, Skidplate said:


    The only vintage car that is able to remain exactly as built is most likely a car that either never goes anywhere or only limps down the street to the car show twice a year or around the little town now and then that its been located in for the last forever. The cars that DO actually get driven and DO actually go places are (whether you like it or not) cars that have been modified in some way or other to make them even remotely drivable with parts that can actually be had if and when something fails. Whether it's a change of voltage or a better carburetor or even yes a better transmission with OMG more than just 3 gears.
     

    If you were correct, how have I driven my 1937 Buick Century from North Carolina to Ohio and back or from North Carolina to Indiana, and toured many many miles on different tours over the past decade. The car is still 6 volts and still has the original engine and drivetrain and bias ply tires. A properly maintained stock 1937 Buick is good to drive anywhere you want to go. Since mine is a Century, it is even fine for Interstate speeds, although non-interstates do tend to have more interesting scenery. Sometimes I have taken the interstate, and sometimes I have taken secondary roads. 

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  11. If you want to replace a 1936 320 engine, the best source for a used engine that will work would probably be Dave Tacheny. He sells 1936-1941 Buick parts. You can best reach him by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. He may very well have exactly what you need.

  12. 17 minutes ago, edinmass said:

    Interesting thread, and very technical……….I have only experienced two bad condensers in fifty years and countless miles. One car had 103 year old originals in it.(1914 Caddy). I have had at least twenty coil failures over time. Seems today lots of the old units that were fine for decades are giving up the ghost. Had a coil failure last week on the 851 SC speedster. Happened right after the float sank. It was a rough month driving the Auburn. 

    I suspect most of your condensers have been old ones. The old ones rarely seem to fail. The modern replacement ones seem more likely to be junk. It is common to think that replacing the condenser whenever you install new points is a good idea.... Maybe it once was, but now I tend to leave the old ones alone as long as they work. 

     

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  13. 2 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

    OK.  I am just trying to clarify something. On this forum as well as others, the prevailing  "wisdom" is if there is no spark, change the condenser. Looks like if the condenser does not prevent the points firing, only prevents early point failure, changing the condenser will not help. Am I wrong?

     

      Ben

    I will let Bloo or someone else with more technical training explain why, but...

     

    No, You are wrong. The condenser is the cheapest, easiest to change and most likely cause for a failure in the ignition circuit. Personal experience tells me that if it quits firing, try changing the condenser and you have a good chance of having fixed the problem. I once did a tune up on a 1937 Buick and it would not run. I removed the "new out of the package" imported condenser and reinstalled the old condensor and the car would run again. 

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  14. 5 hours ago, CChinn said:

    Steve, thanks for your reply on the registration question and all of the other replies you have provided to questions from the membership on other threads on the forum. It’s greatly appreciated. Glad to hear you say that “renewing membership is a snap now”. If that is the case, I am still perplexed as to why my AACA chapter in NC asked all members to pay $70 in September for 2024 chapter, region and national renewal fees directly to the chapter and let the chapter submit individual renewal fees and registration to AACA HQ and for members to forgo the new online renewal process you have implemented at our national headquarters. As I stated in my earlier post on this thread (and I am sure you have read it) those fees and registration for our chapter members have not yet been submitted to AACA headquarters despite the cashing of my check in October. Perhaps this is a question better suited for my chapter &/or regional president and not the Executive Director, and I did direct the question earlier to the chapter president and have not received an answer other than to ignore the AACA renewal reminders that was sent to all chapter members. 

    In our chapter, we encourage our members to submit their National, NC Region, and Cape Fear Chapter dues in one payment to the Chapter Treasurer (me) because it allows our members to simply make one payment rather than three separate payments. Typically, we start collectiing dues in October and get most of them in November and December. This year, I started in September, as soon as National sent an email about dues renewals out to the membership. Despite starting in September, as of today, I still have some who have not yet renewed. We do of course, also tell members that they can pay their Region and National dues themselves and to alert the Chapter Treasurer that they have done so, but we do encourage them to submit the dues to the Chapter so we can be sure that their Region and National Dues are paid. We submit payments to the Region and to National in the same month that they are received. Typically, one batch of renewals in October, one in November, and usually a couple of batches in December. I would encourage your Chapter Treasurer to submit those Region and National dues in a timely manner. Done correctly, it is a simply way to make sure that all of the members remember to pay their National and Region dues, and it makes it easy for Chapter members to handle their dues with a single payment. 

     

    You should probably speak with your Chapter Treasurer about the delay in submission of dues. Your Chapter President probably does not typically get involved in that issue.    

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