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MCHinson last won the day on February 26

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    Wilmington, NC

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  1. Pete, Doing a bit of quick ebay research, I don't see any with an earlier last year than 1942, so I will take it. I will send you an email to work out the payment arrangements.
  2. Pete, Does it have many 1936-1938 parts illustrations? Do you know if there was an earlier edition that would have more 1936-1938 Illustrations? I am thinking that one would be helpful to me as the editor of the Torque Tube II, but if there is an earlier edition that covers 1936-1938 better, that might be a better choice for me.
  3. Have you tried calling Dave Tacheny? He is probably the best source. You can best reach him at 763-427-3460, 4 to 7 pm Central.
  4. Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The best source of good used parts for Buicks of that vintage is Dave Tacheny. I think he has more 30's Buick parts cars and part than anyone else on the planet. You can call Dave at 763-427-34.60. It is usually easiest to reach him by phone from 4 pm to 7 pm Central. For reproduction parts such as the ignition parts, I typically recommend I would also like to suggest you consider rejoining the 36-38 Buick Club. You can find the club's new website at: You can download an application on the Membership page. If you would like to see a sample of a recent issue of the club's newsletter, Torque Tube II, just let me know and I will be happy to send you a pdf copy.
  5. Here is a photo of a drawing from the parts manual. Assuming the drawing to be accurate, I would guess similar to the original but probably aftermarket.
  6. If that is the way it is supposed to appear on the car normally, I would think that would be fine. I would be quite surprised if any judge ever questioned it.
  7. While I think that the 50-50 ATF and acetone is probably the best solvent, a quick and easy off the shelf product that is much better than WD40 is PB Blaster. It is my usual go to solvent for similar jobs.
  8. We previously had an article about that car and trailer in the club newsletter, The Torque Tube II. The owner later advertized that combination in the Torque Tube II. From my research, those trailers alone typically sells for about what he was asking for the combination. Interesting but way out of my price range. The buy it now is substantially more than he had advertised it for in the club newsletter recently. I am not sure if it sold and the new owner is now attempting to sell it on ebay or if the club member has now put it on ebay. If anybody is seriously interested in it, I have the contact information for the 36-38 Buick Club member.
  9. Guest hud, You are listed as a guest which means you have not successfully completed the registration process for the forum. That is why you can only post in the Software Questions Forum. You probably failed to click on the activation link in the email that was sent to you to verify your email address. You may find that email in your spam folder. If you can't find it and complete the registration process, give me your email address I will attempt to help you complete your registration.
  10. When I log in to the Admin page (which you cannot do) I can research the location of his IP address.
  11. I just found the profile. I am guessing he did not tell you he is in Romania. I have banned the scammer.
  12. That is a typical scammer message. If someone with zero posts on the forum sent you a PM offering to sell you something and wants payment through a non-secure payment method there is about a 99.99% chance it is a scam. Please click the report button on the Private Message so the moderators can see the message and ban the scammer.
  13. Quite a few AACA members and probably other forum members knew Art Griffin. He was an extremely active AACA member.
  14. keithb7, I really enjoyed reading all of your post. I have copied just a bit of it here to hopefully allow some people to see it again. I was born in 1960. I grew up helping my older brother in his small engine repair shop. I also spent time in my father's machine shop. I still have a few tools that I inherited from them. My mechanical skills were not as good as theirs but I have still been able to do most of my own work through the years. When I got involved in antique cars, I joined my local AACA Chapter and met people who helped me when I had problems and who taught me a lot over the years. Now, over 20 years later, lots of those friends are no longer with us. I now find that, while I still have a lot of friends who are older than me, I am now the older guy to a lot of my fellow AACA members. It is nice to be able to help younger members with car problems. You are also correct about the internet being a resource for learning how to do repairs on almost anything. I recently helped a new member with an aggravating electical gremlin in a 1937 Ford. I had no experience with 1937 Fords but through online research and basic mechanical and electrical knowledge, we were able to get the car back on the road again, learned quite a bit about 1937 Fords, and had fun doing it.
  15. 61polara is correct any old time independent locksmith should be able to solve your problem. If you need to remove the igntion switch, you can do a google search and find several sites online with instructions on removing the ignition switch. Here is one: It should be easy to remove the door panel and remove the lock cylinder to read the four digit code to make a key. Originally the door and ignition should have used the same key. If one of them has been changed over the years, you are going to need to remove the ignition lock to make a key. The locksmith should be able to do that without damaging the lock. He or she can then cut you a key.