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MCHinson last won the day on August 25

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About MCHinson

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  • Birthday 11/21/1960

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    Wilmington, NC

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  1. I started out this morning by climbing into the body (on the body dolly, so I can now confirm that the dolly will hold 200 lbs more than the body alone) and removing the back window moldings. I also removed all of the muffler and tail pipe clamps, although I think the muffler and tailpipe might stay on it until we are doing the sandblasting. Next I removed the brackets from the bumpers, so the sandblaster can blast the bumpers. I am not yet sure if I will reuse the bumpers or replace them. I took quite a few photos that I think will help me reassemble the bumpers and bumper brackets correctly. This afternoon, I stopped by and picked up my friend's truck and trailer. I had some other things to do today, so it was about 8 pm (and dark) when I got around to loading for the sandblaster trip in the morning. With the fenders, bumpers, and a few other parts still sitting on the chassis for transportation, I rolled the chassis out of the garage and out into the street behind the trailer. I used a 2 x 4 board as a lever to move the chassis around since there is not a good place to push on the chassis and it is difficult for one guy to move it around. I then used a cable comealong and a couple of chains to pull the chassis onto the trailer, after removing the extra parts and placing them onto the flat bed of the truck. I secured the chassis to the trailer with 4 straps and then used some smaller straps to secure the spare parts to the bed of the truck. I loaded up a few tools so I can remove the wheels for the sandblaster tomorrow at the appropriate time. I took some photos of the project on the Truck and Trailer but it was too dark to get good photos.
  2. Today I put 150 miles on my 1937 Century. A friend's daughter was getting married and he asked me if I would drive the couple away from the church. The wedding was in a rural county a couple of counties away from my home so I got some Interstate time as well as some back country roads. The couple were nice and enjoyed the half hour ride from the church to the reception.
  3. Dave Tachney

    While it may seem like a lost art, I still get occasional letters by mail from some of the members of the 36-38 Buick Club. I get ads, photos, and stories that way every now and then for inclusion in the Torque Tube II. I try to limit my calls to Dave to the minimum necessary to order parts. I try not to call him and take up any of his time that can be better spent pulling parts off of his parts cars.
  4. I think the hardest bolts to remove on this car so far were on the fenders. The fact that this car was abandoned outside in Massachusetts for over 20 years did not help anything exposed to the weather. The windshield molding screws were very difficult to remove. Those fasteners with hex heads on both the bolts and the nuts are certainly easier than those with screw heads. The front hood trim bolts would not come off. I had to grind them off. This evening, I removed the front license plate bracket from the front bumper. Those nuts were so rusted away, that I just used the angle grinder to remove their remains. I sprayed down the bumper bracket bolts so they will be soaking in solvent over the weekend. I also sprayed down the muffler and tailpipe clamps with solvent. Hopefully I can get those bumper brackets and muffler clamps off on Monday.

    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum I suggest you call Dave Tacheny at 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. He is the best source for used 1936-1941 Buick parts. I would also suggest that you might want to consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. You can find out more about the club at:
  6. This morning, I was able to do a little bit more disassembly on the remains of the body. I had previously soaked the firewall pad bolts and the windshield molding screws in solvent. First I tackled the firewall pad. I was able to drag an air hose out to the body in the driveway and use a small impact wrench on the nuts while reaching through the doorway and holding a screwdriver on the screw head on the other side of the firewall with my other hand. I was able to remove 8 of the nine bolts using this method. My arms were not long enough to reach the bolt in the top center of the firewall pad. On the ninth one, I was just able to grip the outer edge of the screw head with a pair of vice grips. The weight of the vice grips was heavy enough to hold the screw head in place enough for the impact wrench to remove the nut. After that I tackled the windshield molding screws. In spite of several applications of solvent, I was unable to simply use a screwdriver to remove most of those screws. I did find that if I gripped the screwdriver in one hand and twisting it while simultaneously using a hammer to deliver blows to the end of the screwdriver, I was able to finally get all of the molding screws out. After I removed the screws, I was able to remove the windshield molding. While in the area, I also removed the rear view mirror. After that, I removed the two horns from the firewall.
  7. I had to spend quite a few hours today on some non-Buick projects so I only had a few minutes to work on the Buick today. Despite extensive solvent soaking, the nuts did not want to come off of the front hood trim pieces. I think the main problem is that it is just too difficult to get enough leverage using a screwdriver and a wrench as opposed to two wrenches on things like this rusty hardware. After unsuccessful attempts to remove the four nuts securing the two remaining pieces of trim to the hood halves, I took out my trusty angle grinder. After a few minutes, the nuts were off and those two last pieces of trim were off of the hood halves. I also removed the small rubber bumpers from the hood halves. I think that I will remove the muffler and tailpipe, but after that, I don't think that anything else needs to be removed from the chassis before I take it to the sandblaster.

    It looks like that should work fine. It is labeled GL4 and Hypoid which is what you want.
  9. Dave Tachney

    You need to call him by phone. Call him at 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm. If you can't call him, you need to write him a letter and drop it in a mail box.
  10. I started out the first few days using PB Blaster. I have always had good results with that. I have always heard that a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid was the best and cheapest solvent to use on rusty hardware. I never had a need for enough at one time to justify buying a gallon of acetone until now. A few days after I got started on this, I bought a squirt can, a gallon of Acetone and a few quarts of ATF. When the can gets empty I fill it half full on ATF and then top it off with Acetone. I don't know how much I have used but I am sure it is much cheaper since I think I used nearly a can of PB Blaster each day until I switched to mixing the ATF and Acetone.
  11. Looking for Buick specialist Grant Magrath

    Alaine MARIE, Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I had assumed you were looking for him due to you being overseas. If you are in the US, your best source for parts would be Dave Tacheny. He is the typcially the best source for any used 1936-1941 Buick parts. You can best reach him by calling between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. Also, you may wish to consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. You can find out about the club at
  12. This morning, I bought some impact sockets. With the new 3/4 inch socket, after they had soaked overnight with solvent, I was easily able to remove the lug bolts from the right rear wheel. In preparation for the upcoming sandblasting, I need to remove the trim from the body parts that will be sandblasted. I remotrved the stainless steel trim from the front nose assembly. The nuts on the bottom couple of trim clips were so rusty that they required an angle grinder to remove. I was able to disassemble the hood halves by sliding them off of the center stainless steel trim. After getting them apart, I can see that the hinge portion of the hood halves is rusted even worse than I suspected. I was able to scrape many years accumulation of grease from the left engine splash pan. Underneath the caked on grease I was able to find a patch of the original black paint. I removed both front fender lights. All of the hardware came apart easily using only a ratchet and socket. Then I removed the tail lights from the rear fenders. One of those nuts was rusted so much that a socket could not grip it, so I used vice grips to remove that one. I stacked the fenders and hood halves on the chassis in preparation for moving it all to the sandblaster's soon. I still have to remove the leading edge trim on the hood halves. I have the hardware on those soaking in solvent so that I might be able to remove the hardware without resorting to the angle grinder. My pile of bagged and labeled parts is getting larger. Hopefully in the near future, as I sell some of my extra engraving equipment, I will have a little bit more room and will figure out an organized storage system to organize the parts in a more orderly system to make it easier to find things as I start the restoration and assembly process. I just noticed that today marks one month since I arrived home with this project. I am happy with the amount of progress that I have made in a month. I am afraid that the pace of this project is likely to slow significantly soon.
  13. Buick Club at HERSHEY ?

    Brian, Close... GBK 35-37 according to last year's program.
  14. This morning, I decided to remove the front brake flexible hoses. I ran out of time when I initially took the rest of the brake lines off, so this morning, I finished those. This afternoon I had a visit from my sandblaster. We went over the chassis and made our plans for doing the sandblasting next Tuesday, weather permitting. After that I removed a couple of items that he suggested would be good to remove prior to sandblasting. I pulled the starter off without any problems. I even found a little bit of a mouse next inside, when I removed the starter. I have no idea how that got in there. Next I removed the coil. I then removed the two bolts that secured the vacuum line on the right lower side of the engine. My sandblaster plans to have me remove the wheels during the sandblasting so he can do a better job on the wheels, hubs, drums, etc. Since I will be removing those while he blasts the fenders, I decided that it would be best to remove the lug bolts once here in the garage to make sure they all come off without any problems. I used my impact wrench and removed all of the lug bolts on three of the four wheels without any problems. On the right rear wheel, only one of the lug nuts would come out. I did my best to apply solvent to the remaining lug bolts and allowed them to sit for a few hours. I gave them another try this evening. The impact wrench would still not budge them. In another example of "Kids don't try this at home", I have to admit that for many years, I have successfully used a set of 1/2 inch drive sockets that are not designed to be used with the impact wrench. When the impact wrench did not remove them, I decided to give a breaker bar a try with the 1/2 inch drive socket. I placed the socket on the breaker bar, placed the socket on one of the lug bolts and took one foot and put some pressure on the breaker bar. For the first time ever, the "breaker bar" lived up to its name. The socket snapped. I reapplied some more solvent to the lug bolts and will give them a try after I go shopping for some impact rated sockets tomorrow. I am certainly happy I did not wait until next Tuesday to try to remove the wheels for the first time.