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MCHinson last won the day on February 26

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About MCHinson

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  • Birthday 11/21/1960

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    Wilmington, NC

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  1. The one year is found in the statue: "These verifications shall be conducted as soon as practical. For an out-of-state vehicle that is 1980 model year or older, this inspection shall consist of verifying the public vehicle identification number to ensure that it matches the vehicle and ownership documents. No covert vehicle identification numbers are to be examined on an out-of-state vehicle 1980 model year or older unless the inspector develops probable cause to believe that the ownership documents or public vehicle identification number presented does not match the vehicle being examined. However, upon such application and the submission of any required documentation, the Division shall be authorized to register the vehicle pending the completion of the verification of the vehicle. The registration shall be valid for one year but shall not be renewed unless and until the vehicle examination has been completed." Generally the local inspector makes a determination and his or her inspection report and the photos go to Raleigh and get approved, filed away, and they issue a title. The inspection is not "completed" until the Supervisor in Raleigh approves the local inspector's report. In your case, it appears that the Supervisor in Raleigh never approved the inspection report but they issued the title due to the wording of statute, "If an inspection and verification is timely performed and the vehicle passes the inspection and verification, title shall issue to the owner within 15 days of the date of the inspection." If I was you I would simply ask the local inspector to keep you posted on the issue. There is not much you can do until the DMV makes a final decision. It may be that the report gets approved by the one year deadline of the stature and they will simply close their "investigation" or they may rule the vehicle a "Specially Constructed Vehicle", in which case you need to file an appeal. Only time will tell which way it goes. I don't think that I still have the contents of the private messages on this issue that we exchanged back when you first posted about it, but feel free to send me another message if you have any questions that I can help you answer.
  2. I agree that they should have held up the title until they were satisfied, but they do have the ability to review it for up to 1 year. They typically try to issue the title within 30 days to comply with the intent of the statute. The problem appears to be that the Supervisor in Raleigh overruled the local inspector. That would apparently be based on a belief that the serial number tag is not proved to be the original due to their apparently incorrect information regarding the serial number rivet style originally used by Chevrolet. I understand exactly what you are dealing with. I went through the same thing before they issued the title on a 1954 Buick that I bought from out of state until I was able to find out here on the forum where to find the hidden serial numbers on a 1954 Buick. I was a former member of the review committee, as the AACA representative, when I had to deal with the nightmare, so at least I understood their system enough to effectively deal with them.
  3. FYI, The statute requiring the inspection for those who are interested can be found here:
  4. Bob, The problem you have is that contrary to your initial post, your car is covered by that statute. Your car was a "foreign vehicle" when you applied for the title. Under NC law a foreign vehicle as defined in GS § 20-4.01 (12). The definition is: " Foreign Vehicle. - Every vehicle of a type required to be registered hereunder brought into this State from another state, territory, or country, other than in the ordinary course of business, by or through a manufacturer or dealer and not registered in this State." You can read the definition statute here: DMV had to inspect the car when it came in from out of state. You don't want to incorrectly argue that it was not subject to the inspection. You simply need to argue that the inspector is incorrect if he or she makes a determination that the car is not displaying the correct serial number tag, or else you need to file an appeal if they attempt to register the car as a specially reconstructed vehicle under GS § 20-4.01 (43) which is defined as: "Specially Constructed Vehicles. - Motor vehicles required to be registered under this Chapter and that fit within one of the following categories: a. Replica vehicle. - A vehicle, excluding motorcycles, that when assembled replicates an earlier year, make, and model vehicle. b. Street rod vehicle. - A vehicle, excluding motorcycles, manufactured prior to 1949 that has been materially altered or has a body constructed from nonoriginal materials. c. Custom-built vehicle. - A vehicle, including motorcycles, reconstructed or assembled by a nonmanufacturer from new or used parts that has an exterior that does not replicate or resemble any other manufactured vehicle. This category also includes any motorcycle that was originally sold unassembled and manufactured from a kit or that has been materially altered or that has a body constructed from nonoriginal materials."
  5. That is what their website shows...
  6. While I have never heard of anybody doing so, and I can't predict if you will get any help by doing so, you might try contacting the NICB and provide them with the paper trail that you have that shows the error in their files. They might update their files to correct the error which would help you get it resolved with NC DMV.
  7. I would contact your local State House Representative. He or she can probably help you get DMV to be as gentle as possible. When the laws were changed DMV really did not have anybody with any great expertise in antique cars. They relied on a lot of documents from the National Insurance Crime Bureau. NICB has a lot of good information developed over decades but their databases do have some errors. NC DMV has now had about 10 years of so to learn how to do this and they have a lot less problems with their title/inspection process than they had when they first started doing it. If they make any determination that you disagree with, you need to file an appeal. The appeal board has some hobbyist representatives, but the majority of the board are DMV personnel. I don't know who is the NC Region of the AACA's current appointed representative on the board but you may want to contact NC Region President Bill Cox and find out. The NC Region AACA's current representative to the appeal board might be a good person to ask for advice.
  8. While he typically deals mostly in 1936-1941 Buicks, Dave Tacheny is the most likely guy to have them or be able to find them for you. He is old school. You have to call him or write him a letter to contact him. Please call Dave between 4 and 7 pm Central time. His phone number is: (763) 427-3460 His mailing address is: 11949 Oregon Avenue, N. Champlin, MN 55316
  9. I would need to see a side view to be sure but I don't think it is a Buick one. It looks similar to the 1937/1938 Buick Accessory rear fold down center bumper guard, part number 980568. You can find the Buick part in this accessories book: Accessories Facts Book 1938 (Submitted by Brian DePouli).pdf
  10. 49340, Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. In the discussion in the General Forum, you had several people give you some excellent advice, just as you have in this discussion. It is difficult to diagnose the problem over the internet without seeing the symptoms in person. If you have tried multiple carburetors, I suspect that it is something relatively simple that your mechanic is overlooking in the ignition system. I would suggest going over the ignition system carefully. I would make sure you recheck the point gap. I would change the condensor. It is not unheard of to find a new cheap foreign condensor to be defective out of the box. Change the coil, preferably with a known good working coil. On the ignition circuit, make the changes one at a time so you can identify what part fixes it when the problem is finally solved. If it is fuel related, I would suspect you need a fuel pressure regulator. I don't recall the proper pressure but off the top of my head I think it is something around 3 or 3 1/2 psi. I am sure someone will chime in with it. I would also make sure that the fuel lines are all clear. Is it possible that the fuel lines are full of gunk from the old tank? Unless you have changed the fuel lines or checked them, they could be suspect. If they are full of junk, your new fuel pump may also be full of junk now. After going through all of that step by step, then contact Las Vegas Dave and buy one of his spare carburetors if none of the cheaper and more common issues solves the problem. Most carburetor problems ARE electrical. I have been helping a friend work on a 1937 Ford recently and we were convinced that it was a fuel problem. After we eliminated all of the fuel supply system, we finally got around to fixing the electrical problem that was causing the issue with that car.
  11. The cheapest one on eBay is listed at $100 or best offer. I feel confident that if Dave has one availalble it would be less expensive than that. He might also have just the stainless strips available. Based on my experience, if you need anything for a Buick of this era, your first call really should be Dave Tacheny.
  12. Or, simply call Dave Tacheny and buy some at a reasonable price. His prices are always reasonable for parts for this era of Buicks.
  13. Getting ready to plan my trip up in the morning and I just noticed that the meet brochure does not seem to list a Member's Roundtable. Is there going to be a Roundtable at Charlotte?
  14. Dennis, I have no idea about your problem but I have edited the title of your discussion to help you better attract the attention of people that might be able to help you. If you put a generic subject in a post, many people simply skip reading the discussion.