whtbaron

Members
  • Content count

    718
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About whtbaron

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/10/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Manitoba,Canada
  1. Continental from 1925 Moon

    If it doesn't hop out on it's own pretty soon I'm thinking more extreme measures might be called for. I hate to do it but since the block is toast anyway, I might take a cutoff blade around the top of the cylinder and see if I can relieve the metal that is hung up against the rings.
  2. Continental from 1925 Moon

    Strong rust too.... 2 weeks later and I'm still soaking. I've tried heating the outside of the cylinder walls twice, putting the acetylene torch down the coolant ports and melting snow on the piston... no budge. I had to take the rod cap off with the air chisel and I've beat up the rod with the hammer anyway, so I might have to cut the rod below the piston. I'm a little reluctant to do that because then all I have is the remaining rod/wrist pin to hammer on. I wonder if soaking coke down the walls around the piston would dissolve the rust enough to free it up?
  3. How to Remove Paint Spilled onto Car

    Lacquer thinner is another possibility as long as the original finish wasn't lacquer... which in the case of the Jeep is unlikely. The problem with all of these suggestions is that if the underlying paint is badly oxidized, you will probably rub through before you get all the house paint off. I wish you luck, but I've been faced with this predicament on a customer's car before, and ended up doing a complete repaint.
  4. OEM parts found!

    LOL... looks like you have the same luck as me!
  5. Continental from 1925 Moon

    Got curious this afternoon and decided to tip the Moon engine on it's side and have a look underneath. First we had to blow out another shovel full of Rockies remains... . There really is 6 connecting rods in there so the top of#2 piston is almost completely gone, and it does appear to be a 4" stroke. The crank has been emerged in squirrel remains for some time so it's looking pretty rusty and sad....
  6. Continental from 1925 Moon

    LOL... I am actually.... and now I have the floor heat on in the shop to make it nicer to work! It's a classic love story really. Iron gets separated from oxygen early in the steel smelting process, and spends the rest of it's life trying to be reunited with it's first partner. After a lifetime of trying to fix things in an unheated shop with a gravel floor, this is officially the first of the "old car project" parts to make it in the doors.... I am a little stoked! Now I need to get the Whippet chassis in there before it freezes to the ground for another winter... We're still soaking...
  7. For Sale 1931 Speedwagon

    North Central Kentucky.... a pic of what it looks like might help as well....
  8. Continental from 1925 Moon

    After blowing out the creepy crud, the back 2 cylinders are looking a little better, but getting the pistons out without breaking them is going to be a challenge. It's looking better since I started the WD-40/ Fluid Film soak. Hopefully we can still find some good parts in there, but I'm a lot less optimistic about the crank and camshaft now.
  9. Continental from 1925 Moon

    At this point I think I learned how Boyd Coddington felt when they unveiled Miss Belvedere. The motor had been stored outside with no spark plugs in the front 3 holes so not too surprisingly, the front piston was cracked from frozen water, as was #3. What surprised me was that there was no piston or connecting rod in #2. Apparently when this motor was put into farm duty as a stationary, they removed #2 piston and ran it as a 5 cylinder. (Edit... that may be incorrect. I now believe what I'm looking at is the wrist pin at the bottom of the bore, and the entire top of the piston has broken up and gone AWOL) . I've opened up some nasty motors in my time, but I must say this is the first time I've seen maggots in one. Note how #4 is the only cylinder that still has carbon in it instead of rust, despite one valve being open. I'm guessing if we can salvage one good piston, that will likely be it.
  10. Continental from 1925 Moon

    Pistons are the next item on the shopping list, so it was time to break out my new Gearwrench 1/2" 6 point sockets and my favorite homemade breaker bar. I like them. Yes, I could have used an impact, but sometimes I like the feel of doing things manually and I was afraid that those exposed threads on the 90 yr old head studs would snap off. I'm happy to report that I didn't break any.
  11. Continental from 1925 Moon

    Unfortunately while moving the motor into the shop, I shook about 80 yrs worth of squirrel and mouse nests loose in the bottom which proceeded to fall through the bottom of the oil pan. This pic is the 2nd pile on the floor after I reached in a dragged out what I could by hand. Yes, that's the bottom of the oil pan on my makeshift engine dolly. The long bolts out the back of the flywheel were for a wooden pulley. Apparently after this motor was removed from the Moon it was used to power a saw mill or grain elevator. I was beginning to have a bad feeling about the parts inside the motor at this point...
  12. Continental from 1925 Moon

    I can't believe it was 4 yrs ago that this thread was started, but it looks like it's time to drag it out of retirement again. For about a year Jan and I have been discussing the possibility of using some parts off my motor for his. Last winter it went under the snow before I could get to it, so when the snow started coming down on Tues I thought I better get it in the shop where I could work on it. While Jan has been patiently waiting for me to see if the parts are any good, I have been very impatiently trying to get my electrician to get my floor heat hooked up. After our last discussion it's supposed to be happening on Monday. Jan recently found out that the casting for the water outlet is a lot more fragile than it looked, so that was the first part I went after. Learning from his experience, I went very slowly loosening one nut at a time a partial turn at a time. The good news is that I got it off in one piece and it looks pretty good, but the bad news is that it is pitted quite badly where the hose was. It's about 11 1/2 inches long at the base, with the furthest bolt holes being about 8 1/4" on center. Apparently it was easy to remove because I had help on the inside...
  13. looking at a panel delivery and have questions

    Somebody can probably do it, but it wouldn't be easy. The amount of work it would take would be right up there with building a whole door from scratch. I may stand to be corrected, but I believe the 51 station wagon door is split in the middle, with the window hinging up and the lower door hinging down. The sedan delivery door is one piece and hinges to the side. He wants $500 with a title? That's not a hard decision at all... I'd snatch that up in a heart beat. If you can't find another door and give up on it, you could flip that for a profit no problem. I'd buy it on spec... a door will turn up sooner or later, like these guys say, they are out there.
  14. Chrysler Special Roadster

    We have to save some pics of that one. That's like my dream car... if it was any nicer it would be a wet dream car. I like it...
  15. Need advice on fabricating a speedster hood

    The motorcycle tank has a lot of complex curves in it. An early car hood is generally "fairly" straight due to the piano hinges in most of them. That being said, you could venture into curves with a 3 piece hood or the need to match curves on a cowl or more ambitiously shaped rad cover. If you are having to anneal a flat hood, I'd say you are probably doing something wrong. That being said, I think aluminum might be more prone to cracking if it were subject to a lot of vibration. As you will see in some of the other posts here, many hoods have been fabricated with aluminum so it can be done successfully, it just wouldn't be my personal choice to select for a first timer.