whtbaron

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About whtbaron

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/10/1958

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Manitoba,Canada
  1. looking at a panel delivery and have questions

    Somebody can probably do it, but it wouldn't be easy. The amount of work it would take would be right up there with building a whole door from scratch. I may stand to be corrected, but I believe the 51 station wagon door is split in the middle, with the window hinging up and the lower door hinging down. The sedan delivery door is one piece and hinges to the side. He wants $500 with a title? That's not a hard decision at all... I'd snatch that up in a heart beat. If you can't find another door and give up on it, you could flip that for a profit no problem. I'd buy it on spec... a door will turn up sooner or later, like these guys say, they are out there.
  2. Chrysler Special Roadster

    We have to save some pics of that one. That's like my dream car... if it was any nicer it would be a wet dream car. I like it...
  3. Need advice on fabricating a speedster hood

    The motorcycle tank has a lot of complex curves in it. An early car hood is generally "fairly" straight due to the piano hinges in most of them. That being said, you could venture into curves with a 3 piece hood or the need to match curves on a cowl or more ambitiously shaped rad cover. If you are having to anneal a flat hood, I'd say you are probably doing something wrong. That being said, I think aluminum might be more prone to cracking if it were subject to a lot of vibration. As you will see in some of the other posts here, many hoods have been fabricated with aluminum so it can be done successfully, it just wouldn't be my personal choice to select for a first timer.
  4. Need advice on fabricating a speedster hood

    Aluminum is much easier to work with, but like Jan I would go with steel myself for a couple reasons. 1) I've never welded aluminum and don't have the equipment for it. 2) Not all paints adhere well to aluminum (although it isn't hard to find good primers that do). Since it isn't a load bearing part, you could probably go a little thinner... I might get in trouble with some of the more experienced members here, but it seems to me that most of the vintage sheet metal would be typically in the 18 to 19 gauge range for body parts. With the hood you should be able to get away with 20 to 22 gauge ( that's my best guess anyway). With that air cooled engine, you may want to seriously think about finding someone to punch some louvers in the sides for air flow. If you are uneasy about the task, there is a company (Rootlieb Hoods) that fabricate both 3 and 4 piece hoods for the hot rod industry. Yours would be a custom one off and would probably be a little more costly, but it might be worth a quote to see what they would charge.
  5. anyone know what this fits?

    My 23 Moon touring had slots like that in the rear fenders... I don't think that mounting tab on the rear looks right though.
  6. Moon Hubcab

    So I guess he went from driving big Moons to driving a big Chrysler... and then went downhill to a Model T. Too bad there weren't any other Chrysler parts left around. Thanks for the info guys. lol... don't think you'll be seeing this one on Ebay any time soon.
  7. Moon Hubcab

    Hmmm....interesting. From what I was told, the owner was a very small man, but he liked very big cars... hence the 2 Moons (although there was the remains of a 27 Model T touring in there as well). If this is from a Chrysler, it's the only piece of one that I found in the yard. Any idea on what year? I think the Moons were around 22 - 25.
  8. Moon Hubcab

    I picked up these sad and twisted remains of an old hubcap in a yard where I had previously removed 2 old Moon chassis. I had always assumed it belonged to a Moon car, and with the somewhat moon looking crescent in the logo, it made sense. In searching other cars online however, all the ones I can find look like the last picture with the red attached logo. There are no screw holes in my hubcap that indicate anything else was attached. I'd say it's made out of an aluminum or pot metal alloy, so repair is likely out of the question, and I only have one. I was always under the impression that both chassis were Moons, but maybe one was a Continental? Or was this another insignia that Moon used?
  9. Why do some cars just scream not right?

    Yep, those wheels and round tubing bumpers are a dead giveaway... it's gotta be a classic!
  10. Dodge Speedster

    That is cool...lets save a pic of it before the ad disappears as it's sold.
  11. 1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    We've had an extended harvest season up here so it's been a while since I checked out your progress Gary.... glad to see it's still moving along. My chassis is still sitting out in the pasture awaiting completion of my heated shop (yea, I know... I've been saying that for 3 yrs but I am making headway as well. The electrician that's hooking up my floor heating system is supposed to come and inspect things today) so I'm envious of your work. Yes, you do want the axis of the tailshaft on the tranny and the input shaft on the rear to be parallel. I know it sounds strange, but if you look at a jacked up 4x4 and the angles they are running at, I think it will alleviate some of your discomfort. Running a shaft like that in a perfectly straight line is actually discouraged because the grease in the U joints won't move around enough to lubricate them properly. If you don't like the amount of shimming you have to do at the rear, perhaps you can alter the angle of the motor/trans slightly at the motor mounts ( up in front or down in rear), but compared to what goes in in trucks, I can't imagine your angles will be getting very steep.
  12. Wanted cars..

    Oh, NYC, you should have told us that earlier. Have I got a deal for you....
  13. 1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    The car is looking great Gary... with the quality of workmanship going into this build, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
  14. Stalled '29 Renault Boat tail on ebay

    The Renault was certainly a different look compared the usual North American cars of the same era, and I know with the quality of your projects that what is there has been well built. Too bad these projects so often get sold before they are completed, but good luck with the sale.
  15. 1932 Studebaker Indy car build

    If ceramic coatings look too modern for you, you could consider powder coating as suggested, or cheaper yet would be the spray bombs of heat resistant paint. With the work you put into that and how nicely it came out, I would think powder coat would be a minimum. I like the motor mounts as well... the first attempt was good, but these look much better.