• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About busaf4

  • Rank
  1. I trying to get my Series 151 with Warner 3 speed alignment issues corrected I have Franklin bulletin #600 dated 2/27/1931 The terminology is giving me a problem when working with transmission shops. They are totally baffled with the terms used bulletin 600 and the Franklin parts Is the "clutch housing: term used in the bulletin mean the same as modern term "bell housing: Is the "flywheel guard term" in the bulletin the same as the access plate on the top of the bell housing Does Franklin tool "clutch aligning bar drawing 35842" insert into clutch thrust bearing sleeve Franklin part R-2541. I have a machinist who can make the clutch aligning bar if necessary. Are the screw drivers as described in bulletin #600 used to guide in the clutch tool into the clutch assembly (as shown in clutch parts picture)in parts book When the clutch bar is fully inserted, I presume the clutch is now aligned Is the next step to use a micrometer on the end of the clutch tool and then make sure it is centered in the rear bell housing end. It appears that there are two alignment holes for the alignment pins that are in approx.. the 10:30 and 1:30 position (see attached bell housing picture , it is an extra I have) If the align dowels do not align, can offset dowel pins be used (have access to them). Is it correct to presume with the clutch aligned, there are not forward or aft adjustments to the bell housing when fits flat against the engine block Are there other measurements I need to be concerned with Suggestion from person who have actually done this procedure are greatly appreciated. By my knowing the technology to explain to an experienced mechanic, I know teh problem will be solved just as it was with previous technology help from club members on my Series 9 which I brought to this years Trek Thank You Art Lee
  2. Franklin 10A Ingition WIre Conduit

    Thanks for the suggestions Art
  3. I am changing the badly deteriorated ignition wires. Having a hard time with snaking the wires through the conduit which is in place, I sprayed the inside with silcon spray hoping it would help.I got the wire to go in about 6 inches before it completely stoped. Between the conduit and sheet metal shroud there are 6 cylinder shaped pieces (attached to conduit) that look to be heat protection for the wires. There seems to be very deteriorated grommets between the top f the cylinder and the shroud where the old wires snaked through The parts manual shows the conduit, cylinder shaped piece, grommets and wires as one part # so obviously string new wires was a tough job Should the conduit be removed so there is enough of an opening to push the wire or run a snake. I presume the grommet remnant should be removed. Any help from someone who has done this will be greatly appreciated Art Lee
  4. Series 9B

    Tom thaks so much. What you described worked perfectly. It now has about 1/2 inch of free play and shifts as it should. Plan on bringing the series 9b to the Trek. Hope to see you there Art Lee
  5. Series 9B

    Tom I have zero free play. Clutch grabs (not completely) at approximately. 1/2" from top. Clutch linkage is set at mid point. Followed clutch adjusting procedure in manual and it did not make a difference (tried loosing and tightening). There were spacer washers placed on the inside of old clutch cover where the bolts go through. The old clutch cover had a chunk of the casting missing plus a crack over the thrust bearing that was very apparent when the clutch pedal was pushed down). The drawings do no show these washers and they were not put back Art
  6. Series 9B

    I have my 1922 B series 9 clutch put back together with new through out bearings and a replacement clutch plate. Adjusted clutch per manual and the clutch barely engages when the pedal is at the top 1/2" to 1/4: of pedal travel. There is pressure on the clutch pedal for the entire length of travel .Car will move in first and reverse only on flat terrain, slips in second. I suspect the two fiber friction rings labeled B and D on figure 19 of the Series 9 instruction book may be too far worn. Would like a second opinion on my diagnosis If my diagnosis is correct, where can I get these fiber rings made up Hoping to have this car at the Trek Thank you Art Lee
  7. Looking for the part number for Series 9 front wheel bearing both inner and outer. The inner bearing I removed is a Gilliam 307-Rt-100. The series 9 parts book list the inner bearing as a Gurney then Gillian 3007 Roller and 1307 Cone The outer bearing is listed as a Gurney/Gilliam 3005 Roller and 1305 Cone. Any help will be greatly appreciated Art Lee
  8. Series 9B Headlight Parts

    Could not find original so made due with modern parts Art
  9. Series 9B Headlight Parts

    I am looking for one headlight socket and one side light socket for a Series 9B. The silver coated reflector is in decent shape. The attached pictures show the socket and the connectors from my good headlight. Does anyone have these parts or know where duplicates are made. I already tried the usual sources such as Restoration Supply, Synder, and Brillman. Thanks Art Lee
  10. Need King Pin For 1922 Series 9B

    Hi Scott According to the Franklin club drawings the series 9 and 10 use the same piece (king pin which the manual calls a Front Yoke Pin. Drawing is 20999 for pin and 20993 for the bushing. Thanks Art Lee
  11. Need King Pin For 1922 Series 9B

    Hi Mike. Yes, I got the parts from Bruce and they work perfectly. Thanks for your help Art
  12. Would any one have access or know where I can get a king pin for my series 9. The left is shot, the right is Ok Thanks Art Lee
  13. Appraisals

    If you planning to get an appraisal from Kevin Gray owner of East Coast Appraisers, Monroe, NY, please email me at art@artkoe.com for my experience.
  14. Posting about Fraud

    Hello Mr. Gariepy Thank you for responding. I respect and will abide by the rules of the AACA forum. I also respect that forum moderators are volunteers and I appreciate their contribution of their time and effort. I believe my posting complied with the rules you show above stating “You agree, through your use of this private forum, that you will not post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, inaccurate, abusive or provoking tone, containing vulgar or profane language, threatening, harassing, hateful, sexually oriented, or containing personal attacks, or that are considered offensive of otherwise inappropriate by the moderators will be deleted.” My posting stated that I had hired Mr. Gray owner of East Coast Appraisers based upon credentials he provided to make an appraisal of several cars. It further stated that a retainer payment of $1,000.00 on November 1, 2015 and that Mr. Gray failed to provide the appraisal and would not return phone calls, emails, fax and respond to a certified letter. Supporting documentation was provided as an attachment on the posting so other members could make their own decision on my claim. My basis for the post was to warn other members what had occurred so this does not occur to them. I believe it proper and appropriate to warn other members about misrepresentation and I wished I had been warned before I engaged East Coast Appraisers. Mr. Gray certainly has the opportunity to comment and in fact I had previously notified Mr. Gray (by certified mail) that lack of response would result in my action to notify others in the antique/classic car community of his actions Respectfully Art Lee