RandyFerguson

Could you please send a picture? rodbuilderandco@frsb.net Thanks, Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding Robinson, IL.

Hello, You might try getting together with your local PPG jobber with the original paint code and ask that they call the PPG color library. It may be a long shot, but worth a chance. If that doesn't work and you still have the original paint on the car, you might try buffing a few spots and have the same jobber use the "prophet" on it. This device scans the surface and when plugged in to their computer, will search for the closest possible match. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding

Hello, By chance do you have a picture and/or a small piece of it you could possibly ship to me. I could possibly make what you're looking for, but I would need a pattern. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding

Hi Mike, This gentleman is among the best in the business. Vintage Automotive Huntsville, AL. 256-859-1969 Tell him I sent you. Randy Ferguson Ferguson COachbuilding Robinson, IL.

Hi Randy, It's been a long time since I've used it, but I think what you're talking about is 5717S Metal Conditioner. It's kind of a bluish color as I recall. It's another phosphoric acid product, which is what most rust removers are. There are several available. I like the jellied based stuff because it actually stays where you put it on vertical surfaces and tends to stay wet longer, giving the acid time to work. Rust can be tough stuff to knock loose, but in reality, it's basically sitting there on the surface, just waiting for a nudge to get the heck outta the way!! Randy Ferguson

Hello, I can't help you out on all the parts, but as for the body repair, I can give you an idea based on what can be seen in the picture. These prices are for metalfinishing it as this car deserves, not a typical collision shop body filler repair. Rear splash apron repair $960.00 left rear quarter repair $1,440.00 left fender NEW scratch built $2,400.00 More information would be needed to quote refinish. I would assume it's a single stage paint which would be near impossible to match as well as blend. I would figure on a complete refinish of the green along the left side. Refinish of the fender, splash apron, etc. is pretty straight forward. If you need additional info, feel free to call. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding Robinson, IL rodbuilderandco@frsb.net 618-544-2972

Hi Guys, I appreciate the compliments. There's a lot more where that come from if you want it. I'm a sheetmetal shaper, so if there's anything at all you want to know about a cars body, I'll share with you all I know.... and make up the rest!!! We can cover anything from repairing a dent, to building a complete part from scratch.

I've started a new post containing the tutorial on surface rust removal. It would no doubt get lost in this thread. http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...amp;amp;fpart=1

Hi Folks, Unfortunately, often times we're faced with rusty panels to deal with. It's not a good idea to repair parts, without first removing the surface rust. In this post, I will reveal how I go about removing surface rust from automotive body panels. It's a bit time consuming, but not too terribly bad. I prefer to have Redi-Strip do it for me, but there are times when I have to resort to doing it the old way. This is a very inexpensive process that provides excellent results. This is not the ONLY way to go about it, but I have had success with it, so I stick to it. Let's start with a materials list. You will need a DA sander (any type will actually work, or you can sand by hand if you wish) 80-180 grit sandpaper, steel wool (any grade will work), Naval Jelly, a squirt bottle w/warm soapy water and a roll of paper towels. The first step is to sand the entire surface rusted area with a DA sander fitted with 80-180 grit paper. We're not trying to sand off the rust entirely, just get the majority of the heavy rust and make the panel somewhat smooth. Working in an area about 12"-16" square, apply a fair amount of naval jelly and start scrubbing with the steel wool. This isn't a simple wipe on, wipe off process. Allow the naval jelly time to work. It's wise to wear rubber gloves, as the phosphoric acid in the naval jelly may affect your skin!! It is important to keep the area wet at all times. Do not allow the naval jelly to dry. A few shots of water from the squirt bottle will help to activate the acid and may aid in quicker results. Depending on the severity of the rust, you should start seeing shiny metal within a few minutes. You may have to rinse the area and re-apply the naval jelly several times to get it all, but it WILL remove the rust eventually. If necessary, use a small wire brush to get into pitted areas. When you're finished working an area or you need a break, wipe off the excess naval jelly with a paper towel, squirt a healthy dose of the warm soapy water on the work area and immediately dry it thoroughly. This will neutralize the acid and leave a bluish colored film on the metal. I did this 16"x16" area in about 15 minutes. More extreme rust would have taken longer, but the end result would have been the same. Repeating this process over and over in workable size areas will yield a rust free panel that is ready for a good coat of epoxy primer that will last years, with just a few hours of good old hard work!!! This '40 Willys roof panel has more than 90% of the rust removed. One more application will get it. I have a little under three hours in it to this point. The last picture was taken just after wiping the panel with a wax and grease remover. I did this to clean it up and also to help highlight the dents. If you look closely, you will notice several half moon shaped creases in the roof. This all gets repaired in the next step. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding

I've searched high and low for what you are talking about and cannot find it anywhere. I used the Dupo brand Naval Jelly years ago and this stuff works just as well. Phosphoric Acid is the active ingredient. The jelly base is just a carrier. Randy Ferguson

My local Wal-Mart carries it. Klean-Strip Rust remover "jellied rust remover" Product #WRK37. It comes in a plastic 8 oz. bottle.

The best glazing putty I've used was 3M Flowable finishing putty. It's a two part, fast set glazing putty that sands well within about 5 minutes, just like regular filler. It's smooth and creamy so no pinholes to deal with. I use it whenever there are minor imperfections such as rust pits or small scrapes in the metal. I suggest coating the bare metal with epoxy primer first, rather than applying any type of filler directly to metal. I agree that the naval jelly is as good as you can get for removing rust, outside of having it professionally removed by a reputable firm who can safely dip you parts in a non-acidic solution. The trick to removing rust effectively with the naval jelly is to keep it wet. If it starts drying, it becomes inactive. I may post a tutorial I wrote sometime back on this if anyone is interested. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding

Brad, I'm interested in tackling your coachwork. Could you please send a few pictures of what you want. rodbuilderandco@frsb.net I'm currently fabricating an aluminum skin for the right side tail section of a Stutz boat-tail speedster. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding

If you're interested and have anything at all to use for a pattern, I could build you a set of new fenders. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding

Hi Roger, If you'd be interested in new doors, I may be able to help you. I'd need one for a pattern, but could build anything you need. Randy Ferguson Ferguson Coachbuilding