hellerc

RAYCO is on Union Blvd in Allentown. I've not had work done there,but have considered it. They have been in business for over 60 years.

Vietnam, 1st Inf Div. My Maintenance Contact team recovered an M-113, Armored Personnel Carrier that had encountered a land-mine. Two of the road wheels had been blown off and the fix was one that required Depot level repair (Japan). The road wheels were attached to the aluminum hull by Rosan steel inserts threaded into the aluminum. Since we had the inserts that were forced out of the hull, I figured we could try and replace them. We cut strips from Hamm's aluminum beer cans (we had an abundant supply) and were able to insert them into the enlarged holes in the hull and reset the steel inserts. The APC was returned to duty with the other damaged parts replaced from supply. The vehicle was used for the rest of the operation.

Back in the 80's I attended a Bendix Brake Seminar designed for brake installers. In discussing brake shoes and lining, the instructor stated that there was a higher coefficient of friction (better stopping power) with riveted lining than there was with bonded. He stated that the bonded lining was impregnated with compounds that were designed to accept the adhesives and the high heat needed to bond the lining to the shoe. Based on this I have always sought riveted shoes or I have riveted my own lining to my rehabilitated shoes. I can't attest to whether this is true of today's lining materials.

Since you're not reusing the glass, clamp it in a vise between two blocks of wood. and then, using another smaller block of wood and a hammer, lightly tap at the edges of the frame until you see movement. Then work your way around the frame being careful not to stress the corners until you have the frame clear of the glass. I've removed countless frames from door and vent glass this way. Of course, if you plan to reuse the glass it may damage it.

Always a great source of good foods in the Chocolate field north they are missing this year. What happened?

Pre 1972 vehicles from New York and several other states have no titles. What they have is a 'Transferrable Registration' which looks like a registration card but has a place on the back for Transfer information. To get a PA Title with one of these you need a Bill of Sale (I've done several that were not notarized and can't say if it is required), and a tracing of the VIN. A photo will not work and the Notary will tell you you must get an Inspection Mechanic to verify the VIN, but the tracing always works. Fill out the normal Title request, pay the tax and fees and you should be done.

I just received a flyer with new information on Clean Sweep Wiper Motors. Now run by Melissa Klein it is at 3395 NW Elm Ave, Redmond, OR 97756 541-410-5671 cleansweepwipers@gmail.com Carl

I last spoke w/Keith in June of this year. His nephew had taken over the rebuild business and then it became"Clean Sweep Wiper Service by MD" in Redmond, OR Contact them at cleansweepwipers@gmail.com 541-410-5671. Carl

I don't think it is/was offered, it is wi-fi that Hershey park uses to gather the feeds from their security cameras. Carl

I've been attending this show since 1982. It was an excellent show for some of unusual makes of cars attending. The flea market along with crafters took up all the spaces at the fairgrounds. As attendance and vendors dropped off it went to a two day show from a Sunday only show. Now it is street rods and modern cars on Sat and antique cars on Sunday. On Sat the flea market is crowded tho the crafters have dropped off and there are not as many vendors as the old days. 75% of the vendors leave after Sat and the Sunday crowds are pretty sparse. If it's Flea market you want, go Sat. If you want to see some great older and unusual cars go Sunday. If you have the time do both days.

Well MrEarl, I never knew that was there and it's usefulness is yet to be discovered. What I was referring to is the first sentence of a post in the thread. I'm not sure I made that clear as I referred to the topic and not the post in the thread. Again, You used to be able to hover over a post and read some of the first sentence to get the 'gist' of what the author was writing about. Now all you get is a repeat of the topic and the date which is already visible without hovering. CArl

In the old version you could scroll the mouse over the topic and it would show the start of the first sentence. It helped with new topics in that you did not have to open the topic to get a 'flavor' as to what the author had to say. You could then move on or open the topic. This was a big help when DSL was running slow. Now what you get is a repeat of the topic already visible and the date which is also visible. Perhaps there is a way to change this in my controls, but I'm not aware of it. Carl

I've used Iron Out to de-rust a Lincoln 430 Intake manifold that had been totally rusted from outside storage. I immersed the manifold in a plastic storage box with water and added the entire bottle of Iron Out (Not sure what the dilution should be for this use). I used a small cheap plastic pump (like would be used in a small fish tank) to circulate the solution. After 24 hours the manifold was rust free, and the solution held much of the rust in suspension. After drying, the manifold must be painted or otherwise protected as it will quickly rust again.

A residual pressure check valve is located in the master cylinder.

The black triangle only appears when you are logged in.

Something along the same idea is a riv-nut, available in many sizes thru industrial hdwe distributors. Requires a special tool to set them correctly.

Modern repair shops when welding on computer equipped cars have a device that is connected to the pos and neg battery terminals. The circuitry within it isolates current spikes from the electronics. It also keeps the computer memory alive instead of being lost if the battery were disconnected. The device goes by different trade names, none of which I can recall. Snap-on, Mac, and Cromwell tool distributors carry them.

The yard in the Watertown NY area ( Brownville) was run by Eric Farr, an cantankerous gentleman if I ever knew one. He passed away several years ago, and from what I understand, the yard is being operated by his son who has a full time job and is there infrequently. A check of phone listings might be a place to start.

Back in June, I took Peter's suggestion and called the phone number and got what I thought were results. In a few days I had a corrected plate for my HPOF Board and the assurances that everything had been corrected, until today, when the 2013 Winners list arrived as an insert to 'Antique Automobile'. There it was again, 1960 Ford. What can we do to make a PERMANENT correction for this and future listings?

The 58-9 Convertible deck lid was operated by two solenoids mounted on the deck lid, one on each side that released two latches. Springs near the hinges lifted the deck lid about 6". The driver then released a hood type secondary latch and lifted the deck lid to the upright position and then reached into the trunk area and using the switch, operated the top mechanism. On the 1960 all this was done from the driver seat. When the top lever was activated two screw mechanisms on the forward edges of the deck lid unscrewed from two post mounted sockets mounted to the floor of the trunk. When the limit switch determined that the screws were free of the sockets, the deck cylinders raised the deck lid, the flipper panel was raised, and then the top lowered. I'm not sure which system you want to operate your hood. Carl

Don, I sent you a PM. Carl

I've owned this project since 1979, and have restored the chassis, plated the rad shell and bumpers and replaced 90% of the wood. The car was driving and complete, and now needs body work, assembly and interior. Asking 3500. Car is located near Orwigsburg, PA. Respond by PM for additional information.

I've recently begun showing my Thunderbirds, and being careful when filling out the registration, I always use Ford for the Make, and Thunderbird for the Model. All AACA descriptions from this point on identify my cars as 'Ford'. I see others have listings as 'Ford Thunderbird', which seems appropriate as does 'Thunderbird'. Is there a way to assure that the next Thunderbird gets listed as Ford Thunderbird, or just Thunderbird?

BAX Global may be able to help. Air freight but much cheaper than FEDEX or UPS.

That check valve is the "Residual Pressure Check valve", it's primary purpose is to maintain about a 5 to 15 psi pressure at the wheel cylinders. This prevents air from being sucked past the wheel cylinder cups when the pressure in the Master cylinder is released. That low pressure is not enough to cause brake drag.