mbstude

Do you mean me?

I acquired the car from my friend this morning. I have a Studebaker Lark project (almost done) that I need to finish up first.. Then I'll tear down this SA-25 and see what kind of trouble I can get myself into. Should be a fun build!

Exhaust cutout.

A quick email to Andy Beckman (Archivist at the Studebaker National Museum) answered the engine number question - it’s stamped into the top of the block, left side, between the #2 and #3 cylinders. 25A-204, a pretty low number. A little more of the story on this car - Two guys from Long Island found the chassis in a New Jersey junkyard in about 1952. They got it running and cobbled together the plywood body at that time. Somehow it’s managed to survive intact for the last 70 years. The current owner’s father bought the car in 1996 from George Albright. Not much has been done to the car since, other than starting it and driving it around the pastures every few years. The car is thoroughly worn out, though it still starts and runs. I’m thinking it might be my next project.. I want to rebuild the chassis and put a more attractive body on it - turning it into either a proper speedster with a lower seating position, or a roadster style pickup truck (leaning more towards the latter idea). Since it’s really just a chassis, authenticity goes out the window and I may as well have fun with it. But it was purchased without any paperwork and as such has never been registered or tagged. I’d like to be able to drive the car on the road when it’s all done.. Hence the need to find a number on it so we can get it titled. Should be fun!

What Bloo said - I can’t find an engine serial number.

I just found another post on this forum where I asked the same question in 2020. Seems that the original serial tag was fastened to the firewall. This car doesn’t have the original firewall. I’m open to suggestions.

We have a 1913 Stude model 25 with a homemade body on it. Can anyone tell me where the serial number tag (or engine serial number) is? We need to get a title and registration for it. All I've found so far is a circa 1990 registration card from a previous owner in New York. The number listed on the card is 254204. Thanks in advance.

Overdrive would make a big difference - you’d essentially have a 4th gear that would give you a 30% reduction in engine RPM’s. The 1938 overdrive trans is one-year-only, but they’re out there. But if you’re good with it as it is, then by all means, keep driving it.

If you’re wanting more top end speed, changing the rear axle ratio is the easiest way to do that. The caveat is to not go to too high of a ratio that you end up lugging the engine. Does your 38 have overdrive? If not, adding an OD trans should be priority number one. When I had my ‘41 Commander, I installed the complete rear axle assembly from a ‘62 Studebaker pickup truck with a 4.09 gear ratio. It was a direct bolt-in swap, nothing needed to be changed. The only discernible difference was that the overall track width of the truck axle was 2” wider, but there was plenty of room in the fenders for tire clearance. Of course the Commander had a Dana 41 axle, and the truck had a Dana 44 axle. But the external dimensions are the same. Spring mounting plates were in the same location, and the stock ‘41 driveshaft and u-joint was retained. I don’t remember if the original axle had a 4.55 or 4.88 gear set, but the 4.09 was a nice improvement. At least, if you’re like me and prefer a car with longer legs. Truck Dana 44 installed in the ‘41 Commander: Truck Dana 44 at the top of the photo. Commander Dana 41 below:

Would like to purchase a 3.91 or 4.09 ring and pinion set for a Dana 41 rear axle. Thank you.

I had these mounted on my 41 Stude. Driven less than 100 miles before I changed to radials. Purchased new in December, 2020.Retail is $250 per tire. Set of 5 cost me $1400 with shipping.$1000 for all 5 and I’ll cover the shipping (lower 48 only). Wheels not included.

Bo, are you working on this yourself? If it’ll help, Stephen has a 1916 4 cylinder touring car that you are more than welcome to come and look at.

That car couldn’t have went to a better home. I’m glad you found a radiator mascot!

I didn’t get much prior history on the car, other than the now deceased previous owner spent the better part of 20 years doing a full body-off restoration in his garage. He started with a rust free car and, while not professionally done, he did a pretty nice job over all. The odometer shows right at 200 miles, and given the car’s overall condition, I’d say that’s accurate mileage since the restoration. It hurts to realize that he spent so many years of his life restoring the car, only to have such an elusive problem and never have the satisfaction of driving the car and enjoying the result of his efforts. Best I can do now is get the old thing on the road where it belongs. I owe the guy that much.

Bloo, you were right on the money to look at the free wheeling clutch. In its resting state, the tension of the springs should keep the roller bearings on the high side of the “ramps” (first photo). If you put the springs in backwards, the tension will keep the roller bearings on the low side of the “ramps” (second photo). And as a result, the rollers don’t “throw out” and engage the drum until the centrifugal force is higher due to higher RPMs.. And when they do catch, you get a “bang” and a very violent engagement. I just made the correction and test drove the car. PROBLEM SOLVED! An operable transmission isn’t a bad Christmas present. Whoever rebuilt the transmission previously made the mistake and I copied it in trying to resolve the issue. But at least now I know how to rebuild an R7 overdrive.