sodly

Would it be one of these Pattersons? An early black-owned automaker. Quite rare, apparently. https://www.washingtonpost.com/history/2023/02/18/cr-patterson-black-automaker/

padgett, this is a stock "hi-torque" 327 truck engine. Pretty sure it didn't require any special fuel back then. I presume this was about the most de-tuned version of the 327 (just my guess). Definitely not a Corvette motor. The says there were two 327 versions for trucks, one (185 hp) at 8.0:1 compression and another (225 hp) at 8.5:1 compression. I believe mine is the 225 hp version from what I'm seeing in the literature. Looks like the 185 hp version was used in larger straight trucks. The "Turbo-Fire" 327, by comparison, had a 10.5:1 compression ratio. Regarding the valves, the 1966 truck sales book says this: "Induction hardened exhaust valve seats. Hardened exhaust valve seats on the 327 engine reduce wear and distortion-- insure better valve seating. "High alloy steel inlet valves. Tough high alloy gives extra durability. Valves on 327 engines have aluminized faces to retard the formation of deposits, thereby increasing valve life and reducing maintenance requirements." "Long life exhaust valves. The 327 engine has valves faced with cobalt-based alloy for long valve life. Aluminized head retards build up of deposits and chrome plated stem reduces scuffing and wear. Aluminized valve faces on the 283 engine with applications in the 50 series trucks slow the formation of deposits, keep valves cleaner and longer-lived." "Hydraulic valve lifters, both inlet and exhaust."

Sorry for beating a dead horse, guys. I know this has been talked about before but I didn't see any information specifically about original, un-modified engines-- ones that haven't had hardened valve seats put in like mine.

Ha ha! Thanks, PFitz. Perhaps there is no consensus on this topic. Do people who put a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in their gas find that it makes the vehicle smoke much? Or any? Or is it not really noticeable? How much MMO do you use? Sounds like MMO might be a cheap, simple compromise... if I decide to go that route.

It's confusing. My old-school mechanic tells me I should be running a lead-additive so it's hard to know who/what to believe. Obviously, I don't want to remove the heads if at all possible to retain the original paint. Puts me in a bit of a pickle!

Sorry if this has been discussed before (I know it has been). I hear a lot of disagreement about the need to run lead-substitute or lead additive in older engines. Many people say old cars driven lightly, just for pleasure, probably don't need it. Others say a bit of Marvel Mystery oil in each tank is a good idea. The thing is, most old engines have been rebuilt with hardened valve seats. What about the ones that haven't? Here's my scenario. I have a 1966 Chevy 327 in a low-mile, original pickup. The mileage appears to be 34,000. Not documented, but everything about the vehicle leads me to believe it's accurate. This engine still wears it's factory paint and decals so I'm assuming that it has never been apart. Therefore the heads are original and do not have hardened valve seats. The pickup is driven sparingly, just a few hundred miles per year, if that. With an original, un-modified small block chevy engine like mine (with original heads) should I be worried about running lead additive/substitute?

Hello. New member here. I collect vintage images of 1960-66 Chevy and GMC pickups and Suburban images. I'm particularly keen to find factory photography. But would love to see any period photos including a 60-66 GM pickup. Thanks.

Looking for an excellent example of a 69-73 Porsche 911 coupe. No rust, no issues. Prefer black interior and sports seats. No targas, no sportos, please. Prefer an original car or a car with updated mechanicals that looks original. Must be exceptional. Cash waiting for the right car. Todd (402) 483-0119 or toddd@neb.rr.com