KongaMan

Members
  • Content count

    1,163
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

484 Excellent

About KongaMan

  • Rank
    Master of my own Domain

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.chip.com/buick

Recent Profile Visitors

2,218 profile views
  1. Like as not, this isn't destined for a Riviera that "needs restoration". Rather, it's going to a guy who is collecting options that were never on his car. But if he thinks his car just went up in value by $2000 because he's got an OEM horn bar, he should probably check into rehab.
  2. Ever since eBay got rid of a seller's ability to leave negative feedback for a buyer, the incidence of flakes, scammers, and extortionists has increased.
  3. Not sure which wire you're referring to that shows continuity, but you might look at the firewall connector (both sides) to check for loose or corroded contacts or broken wires. The turn signals and brake lights share the same fuse, but I don't remember where the splice is that connects them (fuse block? firewall connector?). As a sanity check, you might run a 12V jumper to the hydraulic switch just to make sure everything's good between there and the lights.
  4. I think you have to piece it together from the various components. For example, look at the cruise diagrams to see where it hooks up, look at the brakes to see where the booster hooks up, etc.
  5. The brake lights have to go through the switch at all times, no? IIRC, there are two circuits here (brake lights and signals) and two sets of contacts in the switch: one controls the brake lights, one controls the signals. When the switch is in the center position (no signal), power is fed to both brake lights and the signaling circuit is disengaged. When a signal is indicated, the contacts move, breaking the circuit to the brake light on the signaling side and completing the signaling circuit to that light. Example: if you're signaling a right turn, only the left brake light is lit; the right light flashes.
  6. Bad turn signal switch, loose connection at the switch, or broken connection between the fuse block and the brake switch. You should see 12V at the brake switch at all times. That's the easiest thing to check. Getting to the turn signal switch is more of a PITA, but you might try reaching up and making sure the connector is plugged in firmly.
  7. How many cars had the wood wheel originally? Wouldn't think it's a lot; there wouldn't seem to be much of a restoration market. Most of the sales would go to folks who are in option acquisition mode. If they were easily available, it would tend to drive down value of the originals and mitigate the appeal to folks who want it just to show it off.
  8. Absolutely true, but the effect of the pitman arm is independent of the gearbox. You’ll note that the FSM specifies both the aggregate ratio of the entire steering system and the ratio of just the box. As no one is talking about changing pitman arms or any other steering components (are they?), it is the ratio of the box itself which is of interest and will determine the change in steering response. On a more general note, how can one speak of a “quick ratio” box while refusing to specify the ratio? “2.5 turns” is not a ratio any more than “Yankees 6” is a final score.
  9. I've thought about it plenty. The question is not the overall scheme of things; it is the box itself. The pitman arm doesn't have any more to do with the ratio of the box than does the diameter of the steering wheel. To wit: not a thing. Which is probably why every rebuilder out there uses ratio as the primary descriptor and differentiator: because the ratio is determined solely by the internal components of the box. This would seem to be a pretty simple mathematical exercise: a ratio is the relationship between two numbers. If you know any two of those numbers, you can calculate the third. If you know only one, you know nothing of the others. And so it is here: "2.5 turns" tells us nothing about either the ratio or the output travel. If you've got the same travel as the standard box and 2.5 turns, you've got a ratio <13:1. If you've got 2.5 turns and a 15:1 ratio, your U-turns become 3-point turns. If you've got the same travel and a 15:1 ratio, you need 3 turns. Where am I wrong? Let's look at a similar situation. Suppose you need a new rear end for your car. A guy says he has one for you that's a drop-in fit. You ask "What's the ratio?". He says, "It depends on the transmission." You gonna buy that rear end based on that?
  10. With all due respect, the pitman arm has nothing to do with the ratio of the gearbox. That ratio is determined solely by the relationship between the rotation of the input shaft and the rotation of the sector shaft. To put a finer point on it, ratio is far more important than lock-to-lock when determining how the box performs. Indeed, lock-to-lock by itself tells us absolutely nothing about how the car will react to a given turn of the wheel. For this box, the input is 2.5 turns; that's 900°. For the standard gearbox for these cars, the output is ~70°. The ratio of the two is 12.8. That's a pretty frickin' quick ratio. Given that's quicker than the contemporaneous 15:1 quick ratio box, and as quick as the 12.7:1 boxes used on sports cars, one cannot help but wonder exactly what's going on. Are there internal stops that limit the output? Let's suppose the sector shaft rotation is limited to 60°. That would provide a ratio of 15:1 with 2.5 turns -- but parallel parking, u-turns, and the like would suffer dramatically from the decreased turning radius. Or suppose we restrict it further, to 50°. Now we have a ratio of 18:1. Three different boxes, three different ratios, three different levels of performance, but the same lock-to-lock. Clearly that's not the whole story. If this box offers the full range of movement and has a quicker ratio than any factory box or anything offered by the myriad rebuilders, that's something. But if it's compromised in some way (e.g. turning radius) that's something else. Might not be a dealbreaker, but it's still something that should be part of a comprehensive description, no?
  11. Thanks for that info — but what’s the ratio?
  12. Do you know the specifics of this box: constant or variable ratio, and the actual ratio(s)?
  13. If you're looking for the chrome doober that's held on with a set screw, there's a good chance that's the same part used on multiple dash switches (courtesy lights, antenna, defroster, '63 HVAC, etc.).
  14. If my car has been sitting for a couple of weeks, it takes ~30 seconds to get fuel to the carb before it fires up. If it's been started more recently, it's a pop of the key. But in general, it seems that the best solution is drive your car more often.