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About KongaMan

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  1. To answer your question, you want the fullsize part. If your shaft is good, you can also buy just the boots and bushings. But the first question one might ask is why do you think you need these? The "bushing" is essentially a big nut that spins onto the shaft and into the arm. IIRC, the only other part is a boot to keep the grease contained. Absent any slop or a torn boot, you might not need to replace anything. Whether you reuse your originals or buy new, you might consider deviating from the assembly instructions from the manual. Those instructions say to center the shaft in the arm. If you're going to be running radials and want all the positive caster you can get, you might consider giving the shaft an extra turn or two to push the arm rearward.
  2. 1942 Buick Roadmaster 76S

    Fix the brakes, new tires, nothing bangs in the engine or grinds in the gears? You're good to go.
  3. That thing's starting to look like a real car. Can't wait until you get the Recaros in.
  4. 1956 Buick Special hesitation issue

    1. I don't get how the tires bark if the brakes are on when shifting into R. If the brakes aren't on, I don't get why they aren't. 2. Rather than guess about the idle speed, measure it. That kind of abrupt engagement sounds like a high idle.
  5. Grass Valley to Redondo Beach is a haul. Hell, Grass Valley to anywhere is a haul.
  6. 1953 Special 2 DR HT with 3 speed Manual

    What is that device on the steering column?
  7. You're absolutely right, of course. I probably should have said something like "requiring a prohibitively expensive repair". I'd guess that Hemi might be a much more valuable engine than a '63 401, and thus it might make more sense to do that kind of work on it. For example, there was a listing on here a few days ago about a '63 Electra in OK(?) for $300 or so. Which means that for maybe $1500 you could have an engine and transmission anywhere in the country. I don't know that fixing a fist-size hole in the side of a block would cost any less than that, and you'd likely be ahead of the game by starting with a (hopefully) solid block.
  8. IMHO, a very good question. Barring something irreversibly destructive (like shrapnel through the block), a nailhead can be rebuilt. I'm a little curious about the car, though. Did the PO lower it? (That seems somewhat unusual taste for what would have to be a guy in his 70s.) Was it driven around at all after the sale? And the oil was never checked? I'm just a little confused about the timeline: a guy who has owned the car for over 50 years overfills the crankcase, sells the car, it gets lowered, and it blows up. Is that the right order?
  9. That's a couple of different things: "triple plating" is copper, nickel, and chrome. Copper is the base, both because it adheres to the material and because it can be used to build up the material and fill in defects. Nickel comes next, then the chrome. Not all chrome plating uses all three steps. The chrome is the outer, hard layer. It is responsible for both the final appearance and the hard protection. In the old days, they used hexavalent chromium. Due to concerns about health (hexavalent chromium is carcinogenic) and hazardous waste, the industry largely switched to using trivalent chromium. It's a much safer process, but the end result is different.
  10. Looks like you need some new springs too.
  11. I'd guess that "modern" chrome refers to trivalent chrome as opposed to the hexavalent chrome that was used years ago (and has largely disappeared due to OHSA regulation). Hexavalent chrome is harder than trivalent (likely the reason for the warning). It also has a slightly blue cast. If you're getting parts replated and you're anal about keeping vintage appearance, ask your plater which process they use. Since they're 50 years old, these wheels almost certainly have hexavalent chrome.
  12. I guess that depends on how you define "talent". Would you want one of those one-week wonders?
  13. That steering wheel may be the coolest part of the car.