KongaMan

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About KongaMan

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  1. KongaMan

    GIRLS ON BUICKS IV

    "Trollop" might be a better word.
  2. KongaMan

    1964 Buick Rear Control Arm Bushing

    Because it's such a PITA to get to these bolts with the car on the ground, you can also jack it up by the pumpkin and put jackstands under the axle. Or jack it up and put the rear wheels on a stack of 2x8s. Or find a buddy with a drive-on lift.
  3. KongaMan

    1964 Buick Rear Control Arm Bushing

    Use the search feature; there are discussions about this. To summarize, use a shorter bushing and shim the end. That's what Rare Parts does for the $85 each that they're asking. Or you can buy bushings for a '65-76 Cadillac (ACDelco 45G11006), then make yourself some spacers from 3/4" or 1" bar stock. To elaborate further: - Bushings: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,45G11006,control+arm+bushing,7532. NB: These come two in a box. You only need to order three to do all 6 bushings. - Spacer material: https://www.mcmaster.com/7767T72 - Lock washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/91074a133 I put the lock washers between the spacer and the frame bracket to duplicate the function of the serrated end on the original bushings. I figure that will grab better than the flat end on a plain spacer. As a general lesson: never press out bushings unless you have replacements in hand.
  4. KongaMan

    63 Riv AC flush and vacuum

    Use an adapter. You don't need to remove the R12 fitting; screw the 134a fitting onto it. These adapters let you use one gauge set for either system.
  5. All of this underscores the fundamental truism of old cars: buy the nicest car you can, because it will be cheaper in the long run. As for the plating itself: chrome shops look at car guys like caterers look at weddings. If you want a part plated or an event catered it's $X. If you tell them it's for an antique car or a wedding, the price doubles.
  6. KongaMan

    63 Riv AC flush and vacuum

    It's kind of water under the bridge at this point, but there's no assurance that shop 2 didn't use reclaimed gas for the initial charge and top it off from your tank. Mind you, there's nothing wrong with doing that. The problem is that such a strategy rests on faith rather than verification (i.e. they're assuming you started with a charge of pure R12). The mistake would be in not verifying that prior to reusing the gas. While true in a literal sense, that may not be practical. If you're using gas that's reclaimed or from a dubious source, then yeah. If you've got cans of clearly labeled refrigerant, then the only reason to test it is if you suspect fraud. That might not be completely baseless if you're buying a tank fro ma junkyard or something from eBay described as "from Mexico" or the like, but it might be overly paranoid for products purchased through normal commercial channels. Consider the stuff in your picture. It's labeled "dichlorodiflouromethane". That's R12. Do you need to test that? I dunno. Do you think you're being scammed? OTOH, consider a product like Freeze 12. Do you need to test that that? Consider that you already know it's not R12. It was never labeled as such, it was never represented as such, and there's no reason to ever think that you might be getting R12. You aren't. Do you know (or care) what you are getting? Maybe -- but what are you going to do with that info? What you're relying on there is the veracity of the marketing claims ("works with", "substitute for", etc.). You know you're rolling the dice before you ever puncture the can. If you want R12, you don't want that stuff. You don't need to test it to know that.
  7. Duct tape is silver. Just sayin'.
  8. KongaMan

    1958 Wells Fargo Limited to be Auctioned

    The no sales make more sense than the sale. The "winner" in Monterrey is likely kicking himself about now.
  9. KongaMan

    63 Riv AC flush and vacuum

    Without any evidence, we're all guessing here, but I'd still consider the possibility that the charge the last shop analyzed goes back to the first shop and their intentional addition of 134a. Follow with me here: - First shop adds 134a to R12, saying that they are compatible. - Second shop evacuates system, storing the old gas in a containment vessel. After reassembling and evacuating the system, they fill it with the gas they previously removed on the assumption (i.e. they didn't check) that it was pure R12. - No idea what the third shop did. - Last shop tests the gas and discovers the R12/134a mixture. I don't know that it's likely that two shops would intentionally introduce 134a into an R12 system. One idiot (i.e. the first shop) is bad enough; two is a little suspect. You might want to check for receipt from the second shop to see how much R12 you were charged for.
  10. That might've been to keep them from falling out. The replacements that you get these days (Rare Parts, CARS, etc.) all have a big nut on the bottom that you tighten (presumably) to keep it in place. Although the guy at Rare Parts said you don't need to use the nut.
  11. Dunno fer sure about the 68, but I'd think that's entirely possible (as that's the way it was done in earlier years). In fact, if you look in the parts book, the uppers weren't available as a standalone part; they came in an assembly with the control arm.
  12. Remember that the upper ball joints are spot welded into the control arms (if they're the originals). You'll want to cut those welds to press out the ball joints. As a more practical matter, are you sure the upper ball joints are bad? In my experience, the uppers usually last longer, and the available replacements are generally of uncertain origin and dubious quality. You can still get the lowers from Moog, McQuay Norris, etc. As long as you're ripping the front end apart, you might as well replace the LCA bushings, reaction rod bushings, stabilizer links, and stabilizer bushings also. Don't forget to loosen the LCA bushings before dropping the control arms, and don't torque them down until they are fully weighted. And if everything's apart, pull the upper control arm and give the shaft an extra turn off of center to move it back a bit. That will give you more adjustment room to get the positive caster you want for radials.
  13. Good advice. My experience is that even the 215/75R15 won't fit. As such, I rigged up a "space saver" spare: a slightly narrower tire on the original rim. I figure it's just a spare, so there's no need to pay full freight for a tire that will (hopefully) never get used -- but if it does, it's more than adequate to get me where I'm going.
  14. I've got a 63 (albeit not a Riviera) with a Dynaflow and a 64 Riviera. Different transmissions to be sure, but I wouldn't shy away from either. Specifically to this topic, I wouldn't avoid a 63 Riviera because of the transmission. If you're looking for a cruiser for road trips, a 63 would be a fine choice.
  15. And there ya go. ;) If you want the "correct" look, you're likely going to shell out $$$$ for Cokers, Diamondbacks, or the like. That's a lot of coin for tires that will likely start to rot before the tread wears out. OTOH, there are several serviceable alternatives (Hankook, Toyo, etc.) that are readily available at your local tire shop for a much lower price if you don't mind that the WW is only 3/4" or 7/8" wide.