KongaMan

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About KongaMan

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  1. I suppose one could do that, but that seems like overkill. That is, it's a lot of money to spend for minimal benefit. If you wanted greater adjustability on the cheap, you could machine a little off the front end of the shaft (or add a little thread) so that it screwed in further. That would move the arm back even further. The old trick was to shave down the reaction rod bushings (or use thinner bushings from a different application) to pull the lower arm forward, but that always seemed a bit inelegant. The way I figure it, the upper arm is made to be adjustable. Why not use what's already there? As it is, you can probably get to +3-4º using the system as designed. That should be enough.
  2. Well. here's where it might go wrong... After centering the shaft in the arm, you only get two turns of the shaft before it's at the end of its travel. Which means that this will get you only one extra degree of caster. Still, one is better than none, no?
  3. It's still not clear why this wouldn't work, so we applied a little math to the problem to see how much adjustment we could get by moving the shaft off-center in the control arm. The distance between the upper and lower ball joints is ~11". IIRC, the shaft has 3/4-10 thread. This means that every rotation of the shaft moves the arm .1" forward or backwards. Basic trigonometry tells us that every such movement changes the angle between the two ball joints by .52º (sin-1(.1/11)). So, for every two rotations of the shaft, you should be able to get another ~1º of positive caster. So... Spec is to center the shaft in the arm. However, a lot of folks report that they can get only 2-3º of positive caster from the stock configuration using shims. If you start with the shaft off-center by 4 turns, you should get another 2º of positive caster from the same setup without touching anything else. That, in turn, might easily get you to +4º. Where would this go wrong?
  4. Grind off the spot welds and press it out.
  5. I'm looking for a right (passenger side) front lower control arm and the bracket that holds the rubber bumper to the arm for a 64. I don't care if the ball joint is included, but I do want an arm that's solid, complete, and not ripped up. Anyone have one that can ship quickly? Thanks.
  6. They're very much adjustable (before they're installed, of course). The shaft is positioned by spinning; as it pulls into one end, it pulls away from the other. Stock spec is to center it, but there's no reason that I can think of that it has to be that way. BTW, it's not clear that the caps provide tension. Rather, it appears that they're just (for lack of a better word) nuts to hold the threaded shaft. It's the same design as the idler arm.
  7. The front end on the 64 is going back together, and -- like many -- I intend to change the alignment specs to get more positive caster with radials. My understanding is that the stock setup might only get one a couple of degrees before you run out of adjustment room. Stock spec is to center the upper shaft in the control arm and fine tune it with shims. So, I'm thinking that If the shaft isn't quite centered, it will change the initial caster. Which means that a couple of extra spins of the shaft might move the arm back enough to get more positive caster. Any reason this won't work?
  8. Are you sure the fan is changing speeds rather than the air being redirected elsewhere?
  9. Don't put a car up on blocks unless you don't care about what it lands on if they crumble.
  10. If you can't take care of a lot of that yourself, you probably like writing checks even more than collecting cars. If you really want a concours-level job, find one that's already done and buy it. You'll save yourself a bunch of time and money that way, and you'll know in advance exactly what you're getting.
  11. I'll add even more confusion... My 64 has that very interior -- and chrome knobs.
  12. I guess one could use his google-fu to look up listings of cars for sale. For example, there's an old eBay auction for a 64 that looks to have fawn knobs:
  13. I think the point is that there isn't a definitive answer. Or if there is, it demands research at a level of anality to which I do not aspire. BTW, the trim book also lists "bright interior moldings" for blue (621), white (624), black (628), and saddle (629) custom interiors, but not for any other interiors. I'd still go with chrome.
  14. What color knobs does it have now? Do you know they've been changed?
  15. FWIW, KYB's published spec sheet shows no shocks with a front mount to fit the 63-65 Riviera. In fact, the mounting tab on the KG4550 appears to be the longest one they make.