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About HH56

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  1. The Napa item is an Echlin OD6284 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHOD6284 currently around $25. It's downside is the extra long mounting stem may need some fabrication and spacers due to the short distance between the accelerator actuator and plunger when mounted in the Packard bracket. You also don't need the extra two terminals on an R9 There is a less expensive 91042 Cole-Hersee switch available from Ebay vendors http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Hersee-91042-SPST-Normally-On-Universal-Push-Button-Switch-10A-12VDC-/252988357868?hash=item3ae747fcec:g:oN8AAOSwtGlZFfEw&vxp=mtr which is more in line with the R9 switch. Cole Hersee lists it as a universal OD kickdown switch in their catalog as well as being able to be used for other functions but I have not tried one to know if or how well it fits the bracket. Downside is it has different terminals and would need a change to the wiring although you might be able to rig up something using a small terminal strip or screws and nuts so you didn't need to modify the original Packard terminals. There is a 91042-05 model listed in the catalog as having screw terminals but on a quick search it seems to be harder to find or may no longer be available.
  2. Which OD or switch do you have? R9s use a two terminal switch and R11s use a 4 terminal. In both cases the switch has a normally closed set of contacts which open when the plunger is depressed to break the ground connection coming from the governor to the relay coil causing the relay to drop out and solenoid to release. In both systems, the ground for the ignition cutout comes from a set of contacts in the solenoid. The difference between the two systems and switches is in the R9 there is a second relay in the box and three sets of contacts in the ign cutout circuit. When the the kickdown switch releases the power relay and solenoid, the power relay dropping out also closes one set of contacts which connects the ground to the coil letting the engine miss and release torque so the solenoid and OD can drop out. The second relay drops out after a few milliseconds to open its contacts and ensure the ground connection to the coil is broken and engine does not stall in case the set of contacts in the solenoid have not opened in time. In the R11, as the first set of contacts on the kickdown switch opens to release the relay, the plunger continues travel to close a second set of contacts on the switch to complete the ign cutout circuit causing the engine to miss and release torque so the OD can drop out. There is no secondary relay or contacts to ensure the engine does not stall. That timing is determined entirely by the action of the R11 solenoid opening its set of contacts and breaking the ground to the ign coil. Possible failure points in the switch is dirty or oxidized contacts, a warped phenolic contact support piece inside the switch resulting in a poor connection in the switch, improper adjustment so it is too far down and the switch plunger and internal slide contact is being forced when the accelerator is pushed to the floor for kickdown and is damaging the switch. The two terminal R9 switch is harder to come by and AFAIK, you will need to find the Packard item or open and clean or repair yours. There is a modern 4 terminal universal replacement switch available at Napa which works well in the R11. Except for having a longer threaded adjustment and mounting stem it looks very much the same as the original pre 51 rectangular R11 switch. It will also work using only the set of contacts nearest the plunger for the R9 but will not look correct.
  3. I kind of agree with SaddleRider that you do need to be prepared when doing a long distance drive with a Packard. Many do it but they also know the cars weak spots and take some of the more routine service parts along that might be hard to come by on the road.. Things like fuel or water pumps and of course, common ignition parts. I doubt the TL itself would be an issue. Aside from old rubber bushings which other cars can suffer with too, most TL problems are electrical in nature with probably the most likely culprit to fail being the brake light switch. The original switch was a special 3 terminal which is not found except at vendors. There are now options and kits are available to enable substitution of an ordinary 2 terminal switch. Mechanical switches are also an option. The control switch gives very little problem as does the other TL components but most are not found at Napa. 55 was more prone to issues because the electrical is completely under the car where it was subject to moisture and road debris issues. In 56 all that was moved out of harms way. In a V8 Packard, probably the one item that would give me pause on using one for long distance trips would be the Twin Ultramatic. In good repair and driven with some degree of finesse, they will perform adequately but if anything was the weak spot in 55-6, that was it. Finding parts or even someone willing to look at one in an emergency is not something you will likely find. Many that want increased reliability have opted to convert to the GM 700R4. If you are seriously considering a Packard for long distance, even with conventional suspension, I would opt for the conversion or a standard with OD equipped car. To a lesser extent, the power brakes are another item that some take issues with. Packard used the Bendix TreadleVac and those have caused issues for some -- particularly when they have been sitting and then put into service. If you do get a car so equipped, make absolutely sure the entire unit is gone thru by a reputable rebuilder. There are a few we can recommend. Some who offer rebuilds have been found to do less than adequate jobs.
  4. In 55, at the start of production the base Clipper Deluxe and slightly upscaled Super both were regular suspension. On Supers the TL became optional toward the middle to end of the production year and from most reports, the majority of Supers from then on were built with TL. The Deluxe stayed regular. The usually fairly well equipped Clipper Custom and all Packard models -- Four Hundred HT, Patrician Sedan and Caribbean Convertible were only offered with TL the entire year. In 56 all models had TL but there have been reports it was a delete option on the base Clipper so there could have been a few built without. AFAIK, there are no records of how many might have been regular suspension in 56 but I doubt few if any. It seems to have been a fairly well received suspension at the time and for something over 60 years old still gives comparatively little trouble today.
  5. Thanks for posting the photo. I think a smaller permanent magnet alternator could be made to fit and work nicely in the more confined space of a later car.
  6. That is an interesting approach and maybe something to consider for those wanting to have AC yet keep the electrical at 6v and engine compt as original looking as possible (aside from the compressor). Several who didn't want to convert have added a second 12v battery to run only the AC using varying approaches to keeping it charged. Extra alternators run off an extra groove in the compressor pulley is one approach as well as running the alternator off the same belt as the generator is another. Others just periodically recharge the battery manually using a battery charger. I would think a small alternator hidden under the car could work nicely in that situation. Any issues with the alternator running backwards when going in reverse and does the 29 have a driveshaft with a sliding coupling or flange at the transmission end? If not that slide action might be a show stopper on some of the later cars but would still like to know more about how you did it if you have any photos you could post.
  7. One other thing sometimes overlooked if you are getting an open trailer is the height and location of the wheel coverings. It is annoying to get the car on the trailer and either not be able to open the door more than an inch or two if you need to reach in or else have the door bottom scrape over the top of the coverings.
  8. That corrugated cap should pop or pry off and there is a special hex head bolt with a vent hole thru the center holding the brass block onto the axle. Be careful not to damage anything when removing the tube. It should be a normal inverted flare fitting but sometimes those tube nuts can be stubborn and trying to hold the block and get things loose causes damage. Take the opportunity to clean the hole thru the bolt to ensure no grease has congealed and is blocking the vent when you put it back on.
  9. I can't speak directly to the 1901 models but on the 41 Clipper 1951 and later axles there is a felt seal that sits in a groove on the end of the shaft. The steel washer pushes it into a sort of recess that forms around the end of axle taper and the hub IIRC it is 3/16 or maybe 1/4 thick. I made mine but do not remember what thickness felt I used. It is labeled in the Clipper parts books as a shaft nut oil seal. No idea of its purpose as it seems unlikely there would be any oil getting anywhere close to the nut unless possibly something could run down the key groove from the axle seal.
  10. The numbers on the rods may be casting numbers and not actual part numbers. Packard frequently placed a number in a casting or forging for identification purposes and then after a machining step or two would list the item in the parts book differently. Some would be a digit or two higher than the cast number and if subjected to even more machining would result in a part number with even more separation from the cast number.
  11. I had my Clipper on stands for many years and it seems to have survived. Not sure how much difference there is between a conventional and Clipper body frame but I used the heavy crossmember under the engine to raise the front. It is fairly wide and heavy on the Clipper. Placed a pair of front stands under the side rails staying on the flat bottom in the area where the X meets the side rails before the rails kind of slant up. On the rear I used the differential case or pumpkin to raise and placed the rear stands as far back on the rails as I could to still be on the flat bottom before the rails kick up to go over the rear axle.
  12. Congratulations on acquiring what appears to be a nice station sedan. One thing I see is the heater is bypassed -- probably due to a leak in the core or thermostatic valve. When you get around to repair, it appears the car may have the hoses reversed at the valve. Heater will work the way it is now and with other noises in the car the reversed valve may never be noticed. Just in case, here is the correct routing and explanation of why the hoses should be changed around.
  13. When you get the new solenoid check the large terminals. One will have BAT stamped next to it so be sure that is the one connected to the copper strip and red power wire. I seem to recall someone saying his new solenoid had to mount upside down compared to the original. If that is the case there is another solenoid where the coil internally connects to the large terminal on the other side of case making a mirrored pair. I do not know which one is correct for the bracket in the 55. In 56 believe they were both the same but 55 may have had one of each.
  14. Cole-Hersee 24046 Note the solenoid coil has one side connected internally to the battery input. The other side of the coil is grounded by the TL switch. They are not the same as the usual starter solenoids sold at parts stores. Some ebay vendors carry them as well as Elecdirect.com
  15. What year?