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About HH56

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  1. Thanks for posting the photo. I think a smaller permanent magnet alternator could be made to fit and work nicely in the more confined space of a later car.
  2. That is an interesting approach and maybe something to consider for those wanting to have AC yet keep the electrical at 6v and engine compt as original looking as possible (aside from the compressor). Several who didn't want to convert have added a second 12v battery to run only the AC using varying approaches to keeping it charged. Extra alternators run off an extra groove in the compressor pulley is one approach as well as running the alternator off the same belt as the generator is another. Others just periodically recharge the battery manually using a battery charger. I would think a small alternator hidden under the car could work nicely in that situation. Any issues with the alternator running backwards when going in reverse and does the 29 have a driveshaft with a sliding coupling or flange at the transmission end? If not that slide action might be a show stopper on some of the later cars but would still like to know more about how you did it if you have any photos you could post.
  3. One other thing sometimes overlooked if you are getting an open trailer is the height and location of the wheel coverings. It is annoying to get the car on the trailer and either not be able to open the door more than an inch or two if you need to reach in or else have the door bottom scrape over the top of the coverings.
  4. That corrugated cap should pop or pry off and there is a special hex head bolt with a vent hole thru the center holding the brass block onto the axle. Be careful not to damage anything when removing the tube. It should be a normal inverted flare fitting but sometimes those tube nuts can be stubborn and trying to hold the block and get things loose causes damage. Take the opportunity to clean the hole thru the bolt to ensure no grease has congealed and is blocking the vent when you put it back on.
  5. I can't speak directly to the 1901 models but on the 41 Clipper 1951 and later axles there is a felt seal that sits in a groove on the end of the shaft. The steel washer pushes it into a sort of recess that forms around the end of axle taper and the hub IIRC it is 3/16 or maybe 1/4 thick. I made mine but do not remember what thickness felt I used. It is labeled in the Clipper parts books as a shaft nut oil seal. No idea of its purpose as it seems unlikely there would be any oil getting anywhere close to the nut unless possibly something could run down the key groove from the axle seal.
  6. The numbers on the rods may be casting numbers and not actual part numbers. Packard frequently placed a number in a casting or forging for identification purposes and then after a machining step or two would list the item in the parts book differently. Some would be a digit or two higher than the cast number and if subjected to even more machining would result in a part number with even more separation from the cast number.
  7. I had my Clipper on stands for many years and it seems to have survived. Not sure how much difference there is between a conventional and Clipper body frame but I used the heavy crossmember under the engine to raise the front. It is fairly wide and heavy on the Clipper. Placed a pair of front stands under the side rails staying on the flat bottom in the area where the X meets the side rails before the rails kind of slant up. On the rear I used the differential case or pumpkin to raise and placed the rear stands as far back on the rails as I could to still be on the flat bottom before the rails kick up to go over the rear axle.
  8. Congratulations on acquiring what appears to be a nice station sedan. One thing I see is the heater is bypassed -- probably due to a leak in the core or thermostatic valve. When you get around to repair, it appears the car may have the hoses reversed at the valve. Heater will work the way it is now and with other noises in the car the reversed valve may never be noticed. Just in case, here is the correct routing and explanation of why the hoses should be changed around.
  9. When you get the new solenoid check the large terminals. One will have BAT stamped next to it so be sure that is the one connected to the copper strip and red power wire. I seem to recall someone saying his new solenoid had to mount upside down compared to the original. If that is the case there is another solenoid where the coil internally connects to the large terminal on the other side of case making a mirrored pair. I do not know which one is correct for the bracket in the 55. In 56 believe they were both the same but 55 may have had one of each.
  10. Cole-Hersee 24046 Note the solenoid coil has one side connected internally to the battery input. The other side of the coil is grounded by the TL switch. They are not the same as the usual starter solenoids sold at parts stores. Some ebay vendors carry them as well as Elecdirect.com
  11. What year?
  12. Here are the specs. If you need Packard's service and rebuild instructions you can download them by going to www.Packardinfo.com. On the literature page that opens the site, select the Service Letters, Counselor and Bulletin heading. At item 44 are the 1955 Service Counselors, The detailed info is in Volume 29 #2.
  13. You might check with Hirsch Auto and see if they still carry them. http://www.hirschauto.com/HALOGEN-BULBS/productinfo/BULB2/ They advertise Halogens and I know several have bought from them in the past but can't give any direct experience.
  14. Assuming the voltage difference happens all the time -- with or without headlights -- what is disturbing is in a circuit that should have minimal load with everything off you have a voltage drop of .6 volts over approx 10 feet of wire. The voltage at the battery should be essentially what you are seeing at the generator. I don't have a Cadillac diagram to see if they do anything different with the charging circuit than Packard but basically, once the regulator cutout relay closes the generator output is fed thru what for all practical purposes is straight pieces of wire to the battery. If Cadillac uses an ammeter that should be the only thing in the middle and those can also be considered a piece of wire. To get that much voltage drop would seem to indicate a resistance somewhere in the circuit or a battery that is pulling a considerable load. Have you verified all the connections are clean and tight -- battery, generator, ammeter, solenoid -- and used a hydrometer on the battery to see if there is a bad cell?
  15. Your test would indicate the problem probably is in the regulator but the fact the field is reading as grounded on a VOM is misleading. Here is a fairly typical diagram of a regulator controlled charging circuit. There are minor differences between brands but the principle is the same. Note there is one resistor grounded at one end and tied to the field terminal on the other end. The other resistor is tied to a point which has voltage coming from the generator. There is also a direct connection to ground via the normally closed contacts in the current and voltage sensing parts of the regulator. With the regulator just sitting the closed contacts are why you are reading the field terminal as grounded. When the unit is operating the grounded resistor always provides some connection of the field to ground so there will always be some output. As the generator starts providing voltage the other resistor provides a bit of voltage feedback into the field circuit and contacts in the current and voltage sensing portions start rapidly opening and closing to provide the solid ground for max output. By virtue of the contacts rapidly changing the amount of resistance the field sees to ground the voltage output is stabilized at the set level.