HH56

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About HH56

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  1. If you are trying to restore to stock the 54 Patrician would have had the 359 engine. Motor number on the smooth pad above the starter starts M6xxxxx. The 327 will fit and work but would not be correct if that makes a difference. If you do go for a 327 try for the 9 main instead of the 5 main used in junior cars. That engine would be indistinguishable from a 359 except for motor number. You can easily see which it is by looking at the number of 1/8" pipe plugs present on the main oil gallery running the length of the engine on the passenger side just above the oil pump. There is a plug at each drilled port going to a main bearing.
  2. WTB '42 Packard

    You might check if LaVine Restorations who bought the Yesterday's Radio plastic repro business has some for your model. Their new website store recently came online and I remember seeing that some dash plastic is again available. https://classiccarreproductions.com
  3. '32 903 interior lighting.......

    I have yet to find a prewar Packard schematic showing all interior body lights or most accessories. That is probably because so many lights were optional and Packard usually provided option schematics separately with the option installation instructions so they never made it into manuals. The 903 AEA wiring diagram on this site just shows two courtesy lights with two door switches, two dash lights and a switch and a reading light and switch. The courtesy lights and switches are in parallel so both lights operate when either door opens. Unclear if those are in the front or rear door or if the lights are in or outside. Dash lights operate off their switch as does the reading light operate off it's switch. Dash and courtesy are fed off the headlight switch so only works with lights on. The reading light is powered all the time so can be turned on whenever. There is a body feed wire also powered from the same place as the reading light so hot all the time and that would go to any extra interior lights and in postwar cars at least, also fed the rear seat lighters.
  4. Wanted 1940 Packard Parts

    It appears that LaVine Restorations finally has their store handling the old Yesterday's Radio products active. https://classiccarreproductions.com/store/ There are some radio buttons listed for sale. https://classiccarreproductions.com/product-category/radio-components/
  5. 1937 One Twenty woody - made in USA?

    Wasn't Leonard Williams and Company the importing agency that did modifications or conversions for the UK market? If the car was originally imported into the UK I would think they might have done the work or arranged for the work to be done thru a local coachbuilding firm.
  6. Packard Radio Identification

    I believe there was also a radio for rear seats in limos. I don't know if those units were the same as front radios or if it was a completely different assy. If you have the head for yours is it similar to the one in the photo or is it perhaps smaller or with a different layout. If not the same perhaps that PA351101 could be a rear unit.
  7. Packard Radio Identification

    A schematic lists PA351099 and PA351100 as 1940 models so if logic holds your PA351101 is probably also a 40 model with minor changes -- maybe as simple as a different location for mounting hardware for a specific model car or a different connection for the head -- than the two listed. The front of the case appears identical to the standard radio shown in the 1940 Fact book.
  8. How does kickdown switch fail?

    The Napa item is an Echlin OD6284 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHOD6284 currently around $25. It's downside is the extra long mounting stem may need some fabrication and spacers due to the short distance between the accelerator actuator and plunger when mounted in the Packard bracket. You also don't need the extra two terminals on an R9 There is a less expensive 91042 Cole-Hersee switch available from Ebay vendors http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Hersee-91042-SPST-Normally-On-Universal-Push-Button-Switch-10A-12VDC-/252988357868?hash=item3ae747fcec:g:oN8AAOSwtGlZFfEw&vxp=mtr which is more in line with the R9 switch. Cole Hersee lists it as a universal OD kickdown switch in their catalog as well as being able to be used for other functions but I have not tried one to know if or how well it fits the bracket. Downside is it has different terminals and would need a change to the wiring although you might be able to rig up something using a small terminal strip or screws and nuts so you didn't need to modify the original Packard terminals. There is a 91042-05 model listed in the catalog as having screw terminals but on a quick search it seems to be harder to find or may no longer be available.
  9. How does kickdown switch fail?

    Which OD or switch do you have? R9s use a two terminal switch and R11s use a 4 terminal. In both cases the switch has a normally closed set of contacts which open when the plunger is depressed to break the ground connection coming from the governor to the relay coil causing the relay to drop out and solenoid to release. In both systems, the ground for the ignition cutout comes from a set of contacts in the solenoid. The difference between the two systems and switches is in the R9 there is a second relay in the box and three sets of contacts in the ign cutout circuit. When the the kickdown switch releases the power relay and solenoid, the power relay dropping out also closes one set of contacts which connects the ground to the coil letting the engine miss and release torque so the solenoid and OD can drop out. The second relay drops out after a few milliseconds to open its contacts and ensure the ground connection to the coil is broken and engine does not stall in case the set of contacts in the solenoid have not opened in time. In the R11, as the first set of contacts on the kickdown switch opens to release the relay, the plunger continues travel to close a second set of contacts on the switch to complete the ign cutout circuit causing the engine to miss and release torque so the OD can drop out. There is no secondary relay or contacts to ensure the engine does not stall. That timing is determined entirely by the action of the R11 solenoid opening its set of contacts and breaking the ground to the ign coil. Possible failure points in the switch is dirty or oxidized contacts, a warped phenolic contact support piece inside the switch resulting in a poor connection in the switch, improper adjustment so it is too far down and the switch plunger and internal slide contact is being forced when the accelerator is pushed to the floor for kickdown and is damaging the switch. The two terminal R9 switch is harder to come by and AFAIK, you will need to find the Packard item or open and clean or repair yours. There is a modern 4 terminal universal replacement switch available at Napa which works well in the R11. Except for having a longer threaded adjustment and mounting stem it looks very much the same as the original pre 51 rectangular R11 switch. It will also work using only the set of contacts nearest the plunger for the R9 but will not look correct.
  10. 55/56 suspension

    I kind of agree with SaddleRider that you do need to be prepared when doing a long distance drive with a Packard. Many do it but they also know the cars weak spots and take some of the more routine service parts along that might be hard to come by on the road.. Things like fuel or water pumps and of course, common ignition parts. I doubt the TL itself would be an issue. Aside from old rubber bushings which other cars can suffer with too, most TL problems are electrical in nature with probably the most likely culprit to fail being the brake light switch. The original switch was a special 3 terminal which is not found except at vendors. There are now options and kits are available to enable substitution of an ordinary 2 terminal switch. Mechanical switches are also an option. The control switch gives very little problem as does the other TL components but most are not found at Napa. 55 was more prone to issues because the electrical is completely under the car where it was subject to moisture and road debris issues. In 56 all that was moved out of harms way. In a V8 Packard, probably the one item that would give me pause on using one for long distance trips would be the Twin Ultramatic. In good repair and driven with some degree of finesse, they will perform adequately but if anything was the weak spot in 55-6, that was it. Finding parts or even someone willing to look at one in an emergency is not something you will likely find. Many that want increased reliability have opted to convert to the GM 700R4. If you are seriously considering a Packard for long distance, even with conventional suspension, I would opt for the conversion or a standard with OD equipped car. To a lesser extent, the power brakes are another item that some take issues with. Packard used the Bendix TreadleVac and those have caused issues for some -- particularly when they have been sitting and then put into service. If you do get a car so equipped, make absolutely sure the entire unit is gone thru by a reputable rebuilder. There are a few we can recommend. Some who offer rebuilds have been found to do less than adequate jobs.
  11. 55/56 suspension

    In 55, at the start of production the base Clipper Deluxe and slightly upscaled Super both were regular suspension. On Supers the TL became optional toward the middle to end of the production year and from most reports, the majority of Supers from then on were built with TL. The Deluxe stayed regular. The usually fairly well equipped Clipper Custom and all Packard models -- Four Hundred HT, Patrician Sedan and Caribbean Convertible were only offered with TL the entire year. In 56 all models had TL but there have been reports it was a delete option on the base Clipper so there could have been a few built without. AFAIK, there are no records of how many might have been regular suspension in 56 but I doubt few if any. It seems to have been a fairly well received suspension at the time and for something over 60 years old still gives comparatively little trouble today.
  12. Dyneto starter & generator rewinding etc.

    Thanks for posting the photo. I think a smaller permanent magnet alternator could be made to fit and work nicely in the more confined space of a later car.
  13. Dyneto starter & generator rewinding etc.

    That is an interesting approach and maybe something to consider for those wanting to have AC yet keep the electrical at 6v and engine compt as original looking as possible (aside from the compressor). Several who didn't want to convert have added a second 12v battery to run only the AC using varying approaches to keeping it charged. Extra alternators run off an extra groove in the compressor pulley is one approach as well as running the alternator off the same belt as the generator is another. Others just periodically recharge the battery manually using a battery charger. I would think a small alternator hidden under the car could work nicely in that situation. Any issues with the alternator running backwards when going in reverse and does the 29 have a driveshaft with a sliding coupling or flange at the transmission end? If not that slide action might be a show stopper on some of the later cars but would still like to know more about how you did it if you have any photos you could post.
  14. Trailer for 37 Packard 120

    One other thing sometimes overlooked if you are getting an open trailer is the height and location of the wheel coverings. It is annoying to get the car on the trailer and either not be able to open the door more than an inch or two if you need to reach in or else have the door bottom scrape over the top of the coverings.
  15. Brake line repair

    That corrugated cap should pop or pry off and there is a special hex head bolt with a vent hole thru the center holding the brass block onto the axle. Be careful not to damage anything when removing the tube. It should be a normal inverted flare fitting but sometimes those tube nuts can be stubborn and trying to hold the block and get things loose causes damage. Take the opportunity to clean the hole thru the bolt to ensure no grease has congealed and is blocking the vent when you put it back on.