intimeold

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About intimeold

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  1. intimeold

    My 18 year old sent me this...funny

    The starter in the intake valley was on the older 4.7 engines. Not sure of all the applications that engine was used in. The Tundra, starting in 2007 used the 5.7 engine; and the starter is in the normal position, on the side of the engine, and bolting into the bellhousing/transmission. There is a 4.6 engine; not usually seen, in a Tundra; but available. The 4.6 is not the same as the 4.7, it is a more modern engine like the 5.7. Don't know where the starter is. Granted the starter in the V , and under the intake is not a good idea. But never had any in my shop, on the 4.7 Tundra that needed replacement; but the Cadillac Northstar engine was another story. But as somebody has already posted the Northstar had many more problems than the starter.
  2. intimeold

    Rarity ? Pure sales talk?

    I have always struggled to keep my sanity; when talking to someone who is not an avid collector of automobiles or motorcycles. Mostly when the person uses terms like ," Rare, Special, Custom, and the famous term, Classic. They have no idea that the terms; especially Custom and Special, are usually not always though a baseline line offering from a motorcycle or automobile company. I live in a State that brought out a licence plate , with "Classic" on it. It has lower time and other requirements , that an Antique Tag. Classic has a 15 year requirement from production date; Antique has a 25 year time frame. There are some other requirements also. So depending on your luck at the DMV or any special help from a notary; you can have a Classic car after 15 years of build date. That term Classic just makes my blood boil. These people don't even know what a Classic car is. I motorcycles, I guess the term Custom , does about the same thing to me. I''m sorry I was just venting.
  3. intimeold

    So whom would you sell it to?

    Once again: Show us the pics!
  4. intimeold

    Log truck

    The pic in post # 16 , shows a different truck from the first pic; and the left front wheel in pic# 16 appears to be smaller too. Appears to be, is the key here. I just believe it is an optical illusion.
  5. intimeold

    Custom enclosed car hauler - DELIVERED

    Congratulations on your new trailer. With your flooring choice; keep it dry! From the pics and also from the ALcom/Ex specifications; it looks to be engineered flooring. I see plywood was available, at a higher cost; but this has the look of the standard floor. Go to the flooring, maybe on the tailgate; and see if the saw cut line (edge), is plywood, or if the edge will flake off in small pieces. From what I can see and I went to the Alcom/Ez site then to the flooring manufacturer Advantech. That flooring is moisture resistant to a certain degree. The Advantech is probably a product like Dry-Max from Georgia Pacific. I am hesitant to call it OSB board, Oriented Strand Board; because it does have better resin and glues than OSB. The better resins make it more resistant to moisture than regular OSB. Don't try to kill me here; because I have a new trailer with this flooring; and I did my homework. I weighed the costs of 3/4 marine plywood against this type of floor; and by treating it inside and a few coats of oil based Rustoleum. The coated side of this flooring is usually put Down, to ward off the effects of road water splash and ground moisture. Mine sort of looks undercoated with a rust proofing spray. It looks like that. I have another trailer, an older one with marine grade plywood; and I never hesitated to hose the trailer out once in a while; if I came home from a race and brought home some of the dirt race track. This new one will not be hosed out. Again, I painted the interior with Rustoleum oil based paint ( took forever to dry); because the new Latex paint is water based. And water swells up the engineered flooring product. So I would recommend you make sure what you have; so you take proper precautions. Go to the Advantech site, and maybe the Dymax site and others and study up on these products. You can tell by looking at the board itself; and if you see chunks and pieces of wood, pressed and glued together; you have engineered flooring. You notice I didn't call it OSB board; that was the early engineered board; that blew up when water ever got near it. It is water resistant not water proof. I am OK with mine; because I weighed the advantages (cost) to the inherent disadvantages.
  6. What is the 4th color? I suppose the Spring color? I guess you can tell I am intrigued; but in another lifetime; I owned a 1951 Crosley Super-Sport ( Hotshot with opening doors)and a 1960's Renault Dauphine Gordini But then I went mainstream; Corvette's, Mustangs, etc Now I live in a rural area, and township roads, with potholes as big as your car. intimeold
  7. intimeold

    1940 Olds got my head spinning....

    I have seen this problem in different engines before; and a few previous posters have mentioned ed the coil. The coil, breaking down, is a very likely reason for your problem. one of the first things I would have checked. The vacuum advance may cause similar problems, but not really a skip or a miss. Along with the coil; I have found condensers to act your problem. Sometimes a condenser, will go bad quickly and prevent starting; but other times the condenser can act like a faulty coil also. May or not be heat related, such as some coil problems. Condensers are not expensive, slip a known Good one in for a try. While there, check those points again; for pitting and proper adjustment. It is worth a try, I have had bad condenser as well as bad coils. intimeold
  8. intimeold

    Bring a Battery......and Maybe Some Gas.

    Yes, of course We may see this car "vin" resurrected someday. intimeold
  9. Now, this is really something different. Has it's own way of being Cute! intimeold
  10. intimeold

    Is this car worth something.

    Sad to see a car, that was at least presentable in 1978 ( the dash plaques, pop riveted to the cowl); to look like this today. Of course it is worth something; probably a 1937 Buick owner, out there needs a parts car. To restore this car today; the restoration $$$ costs would far exceed the finished value. intimeold
  11. I was a Ford service technician during the mid to late 1980's; saw every known problem a Ford could have. Your problem: When I stop, I need to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep the car from stalling. Pretty easy to diagnose, if it were in my shop. Not familiar with the after market ignition; the stock ford will work great, if the system is up to Ford specs. Yours may be good, but without checking it I am Not commenting on it. 1. I would make sure there is not a vacuum leak. Those cars sometimes had a vacuum "tree", on the intake manifold somewhere, to have a source of vacuum to operate something, like a vacuum brake booster. Check there first, a missing vacuum cap or hose off will cause the symptoms, you have. 2. Carb just put on ?? Check the base gasket to the manifold, or carb to manifold spacer. Saw this sooo many times; wrong gasket, or torn gasket. Same symptoms 3. The stumbling may be a faulty vacuum ignition advance unit. I don't have any idea what you after market ignition has . This won't affect idle and your stalling at idle; but it will affect drive ability when pulling out from a dead stop. 4. I also would go back and look at the PVC valve. Depending on the emission level and part of the USA where the car was sold new, determines the use of PVC valve on these early 289's. If it is a car that originally had a PVC make sure it is the correct one. This problem mimics your symptoms. Some 1966 289 Mustangs had PVC valves. A PVC valve is Not a one size fits all. 5. Of course maybe an intake manifold gasket problem. 6. Maybe something else, but from the owner's remarks, which I added to my post, I am looking first at a manifold/carburetor problem; gasket, hose, valve, a leak somewhere. intimeold
  12. intimeold

    1936 Lincoln Model K LeBaron Sport Coup

    I just love the look of these cars, and I too would have thought they would bring more money. But of course the blue one selling for, under $100,000, is still out of my price range. The closest I have gotten to the Lincolns was a 1940 Mercury; and I loved that car also.
  13. intimeold

    Help Me ID These Traction Bars

    There were any aftermarket companies, offering a full array of speed parts in the late 1950's and 1960's. If your parts do not have a company logo, your only shot at identification is finding someone that has the same set in original packaging. intimeold
  14. intimeold

    1934 Terraplane Sport Coupe

    Very Nice
  15. intimeold

    1954 Chevy Bel air. An impossible restoration?

    Just reading the above posts; you may do better by passing on this car. To much time and $$$$ to rebuild something that has limited appeal. Don;'t get me wrong, I have owned 4 - door Chevy's and others , but never spent much for them. Great cars to drive, but hard to recoup and money spent on them. Buy them in running or near running condition, and have fun with them. Your car, is going to need lots of everything.