intimeold

You didn't mention, if the idle speed adjustment is controlled by a screw adjustment; or an electric solenoid. If the idle speed is controlled by some sort of mechanical screw or like item; when you turn the ignition off the idle falls back to the hard setting of the screw. Which may be holding the idle just a bit too fast. On the other hand; if there is an electric solenoid controlling the idle speed; when the ignition key is turned off, this allows the solenoid to collapse, thus allowing a much lower setting . So when you energize the key and solenoid; the solenoid is controlling the idle speed. Turn the key off and the adjusting screw, (that we talked about earlier) can be set much lower to actually stall the engine. Send a picture of your throttle linkage at the engine; and we can get a better idea of what you have. And the solenoid can be used on fuel injection or carbureted vehicles. I purposely, jumped past all the other things that should be checked too; and only focused on the base idle adjustment. intimeold

WOW, Thank You We have had that trunk for years and never had a definite account of what it fit. Your pictures really help. intimeold

Great topic. Of course there are different views on this subject but when it really comes down to it, the owner has the right to do what he/she wants to do with their parts or machines. The Purist is offended when vintage cars motorcycles or whatever are cannibalized. The street-rodder, resto-modder, is trying to make a machine that is more drivable that a 50 + year old machine. And of course, a safer machine at road speeds of today. A 50 + year old machine may be restored to exact original specs, at a high $$ cost, which is great. It may be driven a little, and showed as a historical piece. On the other hand the resto-modder is going to drive that machine. And maybe more people will see that machine, because it is able to be driven, like a new car. Not everybody will be pleased. If the resto-modder offers up some hard to find parts, that may allow the authentic restorer to finally get his/her machine finished. Just recently I was able to get a restorer a very rare, actually non-obtainable part for a limited production motorcycle early 1930's, he was looking for this part for decades. That part only became available because of restoration could not be completed. Some machines are destined to be donors, for others to survive. intimeold

Too early to be confused, only 4:50 am. Coupe, Sedan, Pillared Sedan!

I'm in the camp of, Ford 1957

We have a Potter trunk that the original owner's family said it was on his 1937 Chevrolet coupe. But , thanks to this forum; now we know it was a 1932 accessory. The Green Potter decal is still inside. 38 inches wide, 12 inches deep, sorry I don't have the height here tonight. Question is: What other applications would this trunk be compatible with? I believe it is too wide for a Model A Ford. Is there a book or listing for these trunks? intimeold

Frank DuVal I guess I should proof read my posts. Thank You for catching that

On a Ford in the late 60's and 70's always look at the serial number or engine tag. The 1969 Ford Mustang should have the 250 cu in . But I worked at Ford in the years this car was produced. And the 200 cu in was available in 1970 along with the 250 cu in. But, and there is always a But, in production Dates of some Ford engines. These engines are so similar that, depending what engine they had at the factory on the specific day, the car was made; that is what the car got. I remember seeing the 302 V8 with 289 cylinder heads, 289 was cast into the cylinder heads. You may have a late production 1969, that got a 200 cu in. Not a big deal at all, those engines all worked pretty much the same. The 170/200/250 engine is a great engine. It is so simple to work on. We did a fair amount of valve jobs on these back in the day; and always check the valve guide clearance, as the guides had a tendency to get enlarged or just worn out. We were starting to see the effects of less lead in gasoline back then. Later engines had harder valves and better valve guides. Head gasket surface and cylinder block deck surface should be checked also, any time the head is taken off. The cast iron heads and block are very durable but a machine shop can true them up, with a moderate cost. You can do the job at home in the driveway; but spend a few $$ and take the head to an automotive machine shop. Why skimp and not be sure if the guides are good or the deck surface won't hold a good head gasket properly. And don't even try this job without a torque wrench. You have a good engine there, treat the repair seriously and that engine will out live you. intimeold

Thank You, for all the members here; on identifying the dog dish hubcaps. And super fast replies. oh yea, everybody has a little detail difference or so; but I had no idea of what they are. Thanks again intimeold

Keiser, Thank you, you got it I just searched ebay, for the 57-58 Plymouth hubcaps, and saw one seller, listing them as 1957-58-and 59, Is there something to that? I am just asking, I don't know

I have had this set of dog-dish hubcaps for many years; but just stumbled upon them again today. I don't know what they fit. the first 2 pics are setting on a ruler, the left side starts at zero. in the last pic the rectangles look black, they are Not black, that is a camera shadow Thank You, in advance. For any ideas.

I have aligning studs for installing transmissions and intakes and such. But in the pic you submitted, notice the rounded/slightly pointed end compared to the original poster's pic. In the original poster pic, you can clearly see the squared off and knurled. An aligning stud would look like your pic. That knurling is a way to get a good finger/hand grip on the tool. The original poster's pic is not an aligning stud. Sorry

This is the handle for various seal drivers or light bushings. Usually seal driver Different sized drivers would be screwed onto this handle' then with a preferably soft hammer, you would drive the seal in. In a new tool kit, you would get maybe 2-3 different length handles like this and a whole array of different sized attachments to fit different tools. Each attachment was for a specific seal size or shape. intimeold

Yea, that # 5 question , could have been asked in a better way

Somebody, did a nice job on the coupe, very handsome car. The fender footstep is a mystery, it does show up on a Chrysler though intimeold