Durant Mike

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About Durant Mike

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    Central Florida U.S.A.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,401 profile views
  1. Distributor rebuilder

    OK, so I've had my starter and distributor/generator restored by AES (Advanced Electrical Rebuilders) in Michigan and yes the wait was very long. Almost a year for my generator/distributor and about 8 months for my starter. Now the distributor had some frozen parts and the distributor mounting bracket had to be made via 3d printing method since the original was pot metal and had numerous cracks. The restored version is almost too nice to put on a car and get oily and greasy. A work of art. But I'm finding all restoration of antique parts usually takes a long time since not everyone is doing this anymore. I sent my 28 Durant radiator to The Brassworks for rebuilding, and the quote was 12 weeks to get the parts and another 4 to finish the restoration. My radiator emblem was sent off for restoration and the quote was 3 to 6 months depending on difficulties. I took my differential down to have it blasted and painted and the guy has had it 6 months. One thing I've learned is you can't be in a hurry when your restoring a car that's for sure.
  2. Radiator Woes

    Curti, This is the guy I contacted a couple of years ago (http://www.vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk/) I'm not sure if it is still owned by the same person or if "the brass works" gets their cores from him. They didn't say. I contacted "The Brass Works" yesterday, for their cost to restore my 1928 Durant Fedders radiator. The core will come from England which will take about 12 weeks, since according to them the company in England is backed up right now. Once received they will get right on rebuilding my radiator. I told them I wanted it for AACA show and judging so I'm sure it will be done right. Price $2,500 which is not much difference than what I received a couple of years ago from them when I called. Now for the radiator shell nickel/chroming like I posted on another post on the forum. Prices I'm getting there is from $2,200 to $4,000. But like someone said prior, "what you going to do". If you want it nice and back the way it was original then you just have to save up and bite the bullet I guess.
  3. Radiator Woes

    I'm in that process now. The Brass Works has my radiator off my 1928 Durant. It's a honeycomb style, but officially called an "Auburn Style" Years ago I started to research about this type of radiator and it's correct that the cores come from England, the only place that really makes the cores anymore. I checked with a place in Maine, The Brass Works and a place in New Zealand and all get their core material from England. Not sure about the Australian place, but did watch a video a couple years ago about someone down there making them. It is expensive but if you want to be authentic then you need to go that way. Some people are having modern cores put in but leaving the honeycomb look on the outside. That's fine I guess but you not doing justice for future generations in documenting how these cars really were. I think it's better to save up and get the part done right, then take the cheap way out and not be authentic. Right now it looks like to have the radiator restored, get the shroud chromed and the emblem restored will be around $4,500. I don't like spending that kind of money either, but I feel I owe it to future generations to be able to see what a car really was like.
  4. Chrome questions

    Hey Ed, I understand what your saying but I also know that you always need to get bids and that some shops charge whatever they think the customer can pay. I stated I wanted show chrome since I was going to put my car in for AACA judging, and except for the local chromers all these other companies have had Pebble Beach cars according to them. Even the local chromer had AACA Grand National Award cars. You talk to a dozen people and they all have there opinion on who is the best chrome shop. No matter what it's like shooting a bullet in the dark. Don't know what your going to hit. I guess that's the way it is. Just like a friend of mine just got bids to remove an old Oak tree from his yard, about 35 feet tall. Bids ran from $350 to $3,000. Some professional tree companies and others just some Joe who gets the job done. It's not much different than the restoration companies. Some do $150,000 jobs on cars "Pebble Beach Quality" and some smaller shops will do just as good a job and win "Pebble Beach" and charge 50% less. I think many like to pay the $100,000 chrome jobs just to be able to say they paid that, much the the Barrett Jackson auctions. Never turned a wrench, didn't restore anything but likes to brag around the country club that he paid $200,000 for that mustang. It's a very frustrating part of the restoration process trying to decide who to use that give you a good quality product for a fair price.
  5. Chrome questions

    Going through this right now. Took detailed pictures of my 1928 Durant Radiator surround. Sent pictures to several major platers advertised in Hemmings Classic car and AACA magazine as well as a couple local. Prices are all over the place. From $1,500 to $4,000, ouch! Of course they all add the disclaimer that it's only an estimate until they have the unit to see. So what are you supposed to do, send the unit to each place and then get it back if you don't like the estimate. That gets costly. I have a local shop that does chrome work, mostly for hot rods, but has done a couple of classic cars and plated my allemite fittings for me. He's in the middle. So how do you really know who to pick that won't put the screws to you?
  6. Hudson Museum Closing Controversy

    Several years ago I took my East Coast Chapter of the Durant Motors Automobile Club to this museum. What a great place, cars displayed excellently and everyone had a great time. I have to agree with several on this forum that the town isn't much of a town at all and really looks like an intersection in the middle of nowhere. Afterwards took the group to a small restaurant not far from the museum for lunch and across the street was a grocery store with about a dozen Amish carriages lined up, I guess doing their shopping. I presume that the problem is not the museum like someone said but that they attached to to a type of convention center which I'm sure did not get the traffic they hoped for to pay the cost. I don't think there is even a motel in that town for that matter. The Durant Motors Automobile Club is looking to build their museum at the Gilmore and too bad someone didn't buy this collection as a whole or donate these cars to that effort and build a Hudson museum there. It's the best bang for the buck really and a great place to have a museum. Really ashame these cars are going to be broke up and scattered to the wind!
  7. Casting Hard Rubber

    In 1928 certain Durant models used a rubber motor mount to lessen vibration. I need to make or cast some of these from my originals. Wasn't aware of this product and with a hardness around 80 probably would be good. My other choice was to just buy the rubber blocks from McMaster Carr and cut them to fit. Might have to look into this. Anybody know of anyone that does this that I can send my original rubber pieces to?
  8. Engine block, head and crank shaft to ship

    The parts are at a British Sports Car shop in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Already paid for, just need brought to the Orlando, Florida area. Like I said it's the 6 cylinder in line block, head and crank for my TR6. I have some other possibilities also, my son has a friend that lives in Grand Rapids that comes South to Georgia a couple times a year, I could drive up and meet him if he would agree to do it, also in April my East Coast Chapter of the Durant Motors Automobile Club has their spring meet in Springfield, Illinois. I could drive up to Michigan and then over to the meet in Illinois and back down here, just a lot of driving. I usually fly to these meets since Florida is so far down from everybody. Thanks for the Fastenal idea, if nothing else works I'll get the guy to crate it and try them out. Mike
  9. Engine block, head and crank shaft to ship

    Thanks Guys! I purchased the block, crank and head yesterday and I'm looking at all options. The parts are in Michigan like I said and I need to get them to Florida. I'll let you know what worked out for me.
  10. I've got an engine block, crank shaft and head to ship from Michigan to Florida. Anybody have any suggestions on a good shipping service to use?

    I've got a block, head and crank to get shipped from Ann Arbor, Michigan to the Orlando, Florida area. How does it work, go to the Fastenal site and there is a shipping link? I thought they sold material and supplies?
  12. Charlotte car show in April

    Thinking of heading to Charlotte for the first time this year. What would be a good place to look for hotels? Within say 20 miles from the event.
  13. Best procedure & varnish for wood spoke wheels

    Here's my Durant wheels I finished a couple of years ago. Took them apart, stripped all the old paint off, sanded them lightly and then put 4 coats of Valspar Marine varnish on them. The grain of the hickory just pops. Came out great.
  14. which one do you most regret missing?

    For me it was a 1914 Model T Ford Milk truck. Sliding front doors and double back doors. I spotted this truck on the way to our summer home at an antique shop on a Friday. My Dad and I stopped and looked it over head to tail. Needed a complete restoration and the guy wanted only $600 for it. We went on to our beach house and all weekend my Dad and I talked about that truck. My dad finally said that if I would learn to do the mechanic work ( he hated greasy car work) he'd do the woodwork since he was an expert wood worker and carver. We decided to tackle the project together and on Monday morning on the way back home we stopped at the antique store to buy the truck. It was gone! Someone had come on Saturday and bought it, hauling it away. Even to this day I miss not getting that truck and having the opportunity to work with my Dad on that project. He did beautiful wood work and it would have been something special for us.
  15. Snubber catalogue ?

    Spinneyhill what great information, thank you for putting that link on there. My 1928 Durant has Gabriel Snubbers that I have to assemble after restoration of all the pieces. I purchased some new brass to use and snubber material, which is really getting hard to find. This article was very very helpful as it tells how to assemble the units back to good as new again. Thanks!