Pat

I'm confused also as to the personal check thing. I've sent deposits with a check but the rest has always been cash or wire as I'm OK with waiting for the check to clear but I would not leave a car behind unless I knew the guy. I've also sent money with a transport so that the car shows up at the hub to be loaded and then is paid for. I know some guys can be really difficult to work with and I don't know if its intentional to try and get you not to buy it, or they are really that off the wall but be ready to have problems with this one. Unless the car is dirt cheap where you know you could sell it for what you got in it, I have learned to NEVER go off a photo. EVER EVER EVER. Did I say NEVER? I meant NEVER! Most likely you will end up with the short end. The question then is how short! Just my $.02

Don't have seats but do have a couple consoles and a shifter I got in a package deal. I don't remember any linkage but let me know if interested. dead@mchsi.com

Cool, thanks for the info. Explains the paint. The car had a 425 put in backed with a switch pitch and 11 inch brakes. I guess I'd call it a what if car kind of retromod but period correct.

Been away for a while. Yes, the tubes are identical. I've had bad luck with those drains clogged when I've gotten parts cars. 67 dropped the eyebrow, I prefer the little scoop look. 67 had option shoulder restrains in the roof although I think late 66 have the modification under the headliner too, not for sure. 67 has dual reservoir and collapsable steering column for safety. Also has disk brake option in front but these are hard to find. The Toro web page has FAQ that talks about retro fitting later disk set up instead of the dual piston design that was the option.

Looking at a 65 Jetstar 88 that has been painted original burgandy mist. The paint appears to have a slight metallic shine as opposed to just a shiny burgandy color. Is this correct or did the paint shop goof? Also, could these cars come with a 425 as an option? I know standard was 330 Cutlass motor but since its basically identicle to a Dynamic, wasn't sure. Thanks info gurus. Pat

BJM, as to your point on #2. Yes, absolutely in your scenario you would not get a BOC. You'd get a 1st place, but not a BOC. I know, its crazy. Most members at the nats are laid back and know the rules so its not a big deal. There are some real uptight individuals in the club as with any club, and if you were not aware of that rule and got squeezed out of a BOC, it would be enforced even if the other car is better. The OCA judging is volunteer and IMO there are simply too many models for the average guy to know all the particulars. You really need to have a model advisor be the head judge for a specific line but usually they will have a car to be judged in that line and you can't judge your own car. So, they do the best they can and try to keep as many happy as possible but there will always be hurt feelings at a judged event IMO.

If the headlights at least go up some, it probably just needs cleaned and lubed to operate. Not moving at all could be rusted shut, linkage missing or plain vacuum leak. Get a service manual for the car, it will make diagnosing much easier. Hard to say with you being overseas if getting parts will be a problem. PS hoses can still be got, again, not sure about your area, but not a big deal. The arm rests tend to bow but finding one to work is pretty easy.

Thanks for the input guys. I had the caps polished first cause I figured trying to polish after painting would catch the paint edges. If its warm enough this weekend I'll try again and report back. Pat

I'm trying to paint the black and red colors on a set of 66 Toro caps and for the life of me can't seem to get the paint to stick. I can get nice sharp taping done but when I remove the tape, it lifts the edges of the paint! I had a local auto painter try and he got the same results. Any tricks to this or is it hopeless without an original stamped stencil? Thanks for any help. Pat

I think the rules are clear. This is why I stopped having my cars judged. I like having incorrect things pointed out so I can fix but I lost out on a BOC once due to non car related catagories. Frankly, the fire extinguisher is a joke too. Just don't allow a car without it to be judged, period. But the 1000 point system should be on the car and only the car. But the rules are the rules and you don't have to play if you don't like it. I still go to pretty much every nat and have a great time but if I take a car, it goes in show only. No big deal.

Depends on if you want show car or driver. These cars had a multitude of options but can be difficult to repair if not working ie cruise control stuff, most are missing parts to make operable so be good at jury rigging if you want original appearance. Most door panels are cracked up or broken due to heavy handed closing. Again, for show it can get $$ to get fixed right or lots of looking to put a panel together. Also for door power options, usually the wires have been cut and spliced together so check for operation.Quite a bit of vacuum modules instead of electric but used parts are not too tough to find. Definately check pillars for rust, mainly down low by the windsheild, trunk sides where drain rubbers can come off- this was designed for better ventilation but has a bad habit of clogging up or the rubber gets brittle over time and leaks. Most NOS has gone through the roof, I think its speculation that these cars will get BIG MONEY if restored top notch and very little parts are being remanned. So if you plan on making a correct show car, grab your ***. But if you don't go nuts with particulars, really fun cars to drive and gets lots of attention. PS Join the Toro club, lots of advise on fixing and upgrading if you are hands on type.

No, both buckets are manual but I wouldn't think it too difficult to put power seat tracks in. Worst part of all this is I had just got back my bench seat redone and came across the bucket seat car. The shoulder harness was a big bonus. The belt and buckle are black but the headliner cover and plastic part that screws into the front of the backseat armrest is silver. I just found another neat interior for 68 Toro. Buckets with console! Driver is power and passenger has recliner. No headrests. I did get the shifter cable from the guy. Any other part I may need to make a console car? I'd hate to try and find a specific part down the line for the console setup.

Just went to desert valley and got a passenger side door striker from I think a 90 series. Looks the same but it ended up being smaller. I have a 2 dr sedan. Anyone have a parts car that I can get this part from? I also can't seem to find the ivory 3 on the tree shift knob. Please call me or email if you can help. 618 544 4261 or dead@mchsi.com Thanks again

I'd give you $9K if you'll buy the car back for $8500? I know the car. I thought if it actually sold close to that I'd go get the rest of the carcass of the one I found and half it. I still need to go back to get more data for the club on that car. I'm kinda with you on clones. If I want to go that far, I might as well build a real firebreather under the hood. Thanks for the back up. Pat

Posted on general site but will try here. For a GT, what else can help verify this model. I've got dual exhaust, notched bumper, wheel well stripe, badge, and OM trans tag. Anything vin or otherwise to tell? Thanks Pat