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About jeff

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  1. jeff

    1937 Special Hot Differential/Rear Wheels

    If I recall correctly, my '38 Special differential cover only went on one way - it has a feature to accommodate the ring gear. Yours might be the same. Jeff
  2. jeff

    1938 Century 66s Master Cylinder Access

    Just my two cents... You should be checking the master cylinder at least twice each driving season! A single circuit brake system with no fluid level sensor as found on modern cars - leads to a very, very bad failure mode. My '38 Special with a re-sleeved, rebuilt master cylinder still weeps just a bit out the back of the master cylinder. Happy to hear that yours do not, but a bit more wear or hardening of the seals and I would guess they may start to weep. Same goes for your wheel cylinders. I would recommend checking frequently. As far as misalignment, my Special is also a pain - maybe not quite as bad as the Century pictured in this thread. I have gotten used to using a cut down wrench, and a very careful pour. Maybe in your case you could rig a syringe with a tube to introduce some fluid in spite of the offset. This approach works from underneath as well. A clean finger can act as a dip stick. In some ways our old cars are woefully inadequate - so we need to keep them as safe as possible! Just my opinion. Take it for whatever its worth. Jeff
  3. Yeah, I tend to agree with you Don. I went with the lip seal version because that is what one of the parts catalogs listed as correct for the '38. That doesn't necessarily mean they are correct of course! It doesn't do much for rain, but it may help to minimize drafts. Maybe.
  4. On your side windows, what did you use for lower seals? I have a '38 Special, same 2-door body style. On mine, I finally concluded that a lip seal was used on the bottom channel of the window. It is a u-shaped rubber piece (that holds the glass into the metal channel) with a lip that is supposed to seal on the edge of the door. At least I think that is what was used originally. After installation, I can only say that its ability to seal against the door is weak at best. Plus, since it is below the edge of the door, any rain comes in regardless. (that's what the drain holes are for!) Any wisdom on this? And, when (and where) do we get to see this beautiful car? Great job! Jeff
  5. jeff

    1937 Buick Special

    Sure can - I put 1950 rods in mine. Turned the crank journals down by 010 at a machine shop, and bought 010 under bearing inserts. Be careful to cross-check compatibility using Hollander's interchange manual. I think, post-war up to about '52 will work, but don't take my word for it. I also used 1950 style pistons, .030 over, from Egge. (along with the appropriate rings). You always have to check the 0.010 end gap clearance, and file to fit. I do have some left-over babbitted rods - if you are interested. The old technique was to remove shims to get the appropriate clearance as the Babbitt wore down. You can pretty much see by inspection how much is left, and if they are useable. Of course, even if it looks good, it is still old. Jeff
  6. jeff

    1937 Buick Special

    I did mine substantially cheaper - but I did most of the re-build myself. Farmed out the 030 over rebore, 010 under crank machining, and new guides and seats in the head, plus head assembly. I sourced my own parts, ran back and forth to the machine shop, etc. Enjoyed the process. Its been a few years, maybe $3000? Ok, round it up to $4000, as I have probably forgotten about the overruns. Sorry I can't be more accurate, Jeff
  7. jeff

    Did You Ever Own.....

    I guess my Dad would qualify. One of my first car memories, at around age 4 or 5, was his NSU Prinz - maybe a '62. It was a two cylinder rear engine car that looked a bit like a 2/3 scale, first generation Corvair. That would have been pretty unusual in the mid-Sixties. Hats off to my Dad! Jeff
  8. jeff


    If I were re-conditioning one of the original types, I would try to see if there is a way to replace that cork washer. I don't see any way to get this dampening function from the aftermarket type.
  9. jeff


    Dave, is your gauge original? Or, aftermarket? Also, if your tank is a '38, it would have a rigid filler on the driver's side. Wasn't the '37 filler different? My aftermarket sending unit reads reasonably accurately, but bounces like crazy as the gas sloshes around. It looks like the original has a little washer that dampens the device, while the aftermarket has no such feature. Is this a common experience out there? Any fixes for this? Jeff
  10. jeff


    With the switch all the way out (fourth position), the driver's side should be on high beam, even with the dimmer switch in the low beam position. The only light that switches in that mode is the passenger side. In the third position, both lights will switch. Also, the parking lights will go out when high beam is selected, and will be on when low beam is selected.
  11. jeff


    Be sure your timing is not advanced too far. Use the biggest cable you can find. Also, how is the battery grounded - to the engine or chassis? Might want to have a redundant path there as well. (the paint thing again!) Good luck, Jeff
  12. Great restoration thread! I am just catching up after West pointed it out to me. No, I do not quite have 14,000 hubcaps - but after some years of buying anything that might be a slight upgrade, I do have about 12 or so to choose from. Some are pretty nice and shiny, but most all have some defect - scratches and dings. Certainly will work and look good from 10 feet. Ten pictured below, four more I set aside for my own use, and four on the car - 18 total, pretty close to 14,000. Where are you located? Hubcaps are living a nice quiet retirement in my garage in Dayton OH. Priced more than reasonably. Send me a PM if interested. Jeff
  13. Input shaft (integral to clutch gear) is different, different arrangement to return oil as mentioned above. Different size spline means you would need the clutch disc to match. Pilot bearing surface doesn't engage the pilot bearing as deeply. Housing - oil return is in the same general place, but is a different size and shape than the feature it aligns with - caused significant oil leak on mine as the mis-match tends to dam up the returning oil. Internally, synchronizers were changed, this is no big deal but you cannot have half one style and half the other. Some slight differences in the shifter mechanism details, but they interchange. My '38 had a '37 gearbox for years - don't know why. I had a '38 spare, so I finally rebuilt the '38 with the best parts from both. I ran into issues with all of the above. Get a '38 if at all possible.
  14. I am looking for an exhaust manifold and valve body for a 1938 248 cu. in. engine. Jeff
  15. jeff

    Removing engine 1938 Special

    I pushed the axle back and dropped the transmission first - would never pull the engine off of the transmission. Anyway, you will have to push the axle back to get the driveshaft spline out of the transmission. This approach was recommended by a 30's - 50's Buick mechanic, although I really can't say if his advice was because of my garage equipment limitations or if it was the way it was done. Doesn't matter, this old friend's advice was good enough for me! Oh yeah, I pulled the cylinder head off prior to lifting the engine. Bolted the hoist chain links directly to the block. More than one way to skin a cat - just be safe.