sleeve-valve

My 1921 Stearns-Knight has the 248 ci 4 cyl 57hp sleeve-valve engine, 125 inch wheelbase. It is comfortable up to about 35mph. It rode like a rigid frame Harley until I greased the springs, now its much smoother but no luxury lacht from the 60s. Steering was a workout until I removed the grease fitting from the steering box and filled it with steering box lube, now it's easy while moving but still a bit tough when stopped. It has the 3 speed with no synchros, shift to second early, if done right it almost pulls the shifter into second. Follow soon into third, usually easier. Downshifting to second is tough, if I haven't driven it in a while it takes time to re-learn. I don't drive when headlights are needed since they are less brilliant than my 4Dcell mag light. I really enjoy it for what it is!

It has not run in at least 40 years. Has been stored inside at least that long. It was cut down from a vehicle and converted to drive a pulley back in the 1950s or 1960s. Currently the engine turns over by hand or by electric starter. The clutch engages and disengages. I have not tried to start it. Engine number is not legible. $350 SOLD. Located in Northern RI.

On mine, #6 is to the front of the car. #1 is one position clockwise from front, facing the front of the Right Front tire.

Martin Johnson Vintage Exhaust was recommended by folks on this forum. They made 2 different exhaust parts for me and I am very happy with both the work and customer service.

It run, drives and stops in the yard. It is not registered, there is no title, it is not road legal. The engine number looks like A4403767 which would be March 1931. The body number 190A 28664 is 1930 or 1931 Victoria Sedan. The body was cut down probably in the 1950s or 1960s, it has been stored inside since. All the body panels that remain have some damage. The frame is surprisingly solid but has been cut in the rear. The engine has been tuned up, starts easily and runs smooth. It shifts fine. The brakes work, including the parking brake. The ammeter shows charging when running. The radiator does not leak. The tires all hold air. $SOLD, located in Northern RI.

Updating list.

Babbitt scraper.

More parts added.

Plate glass.

Good used 248 Exhaust Manifold with no cracks. Fits many years but this is off a 1939 because it has no rear mounting bolt ear $250 Rebuilt Generator 1101052 8L28 1938-1939 Buick 40 series (SOLD) NOS 1309468 5.548 Universal Joint with yoke 1939 series 40-60 $80 NOS 905606 5.447 New Departure 5606 Rear axle Front pinion bearing 1939 series 40-60 may fit others $20 NOS 125630 5.484 Green C1506 Rear axle Rear pinion bearing 1936-1939 some models $25 NOS 1308425 0.795 Clutch Release Yoke 1939 series 40 $20 NOS 1303384 0.796 Stud, Clutch Release Yoke Ball, have 2 $5 each NORS BCA 1507-1 = 954222 Clutch release bearing fits many applications from 1936 to 1954 $20 Used Distributor 1110801 0C19, spins freely and seems tight, for some 1938-41 models (SOLD) NOS 1871821 Coil Bracket, fits many applications $15 NOS 1404 dash light switch, fits many applications (SOLD) NOS 909042 Andrew Front Wheel Bearing Inner, fits some 1937 1938 1939, $15 (2) NOS 111121 5.855 Rear wheel bearings, fits many years $40 for the pair NOS 1266913 0.553 Rear Camshaft Bearing Plug, fits many years, have 4 $5 each (14) NOS 1324119 0.429 Push Rod Ball Stud + (2) NOS 1310174, all 16 for $20 10 NOS GE Mazda 2320 headlamp bulbs, all 10 for (SOLD) All parts are + actual shipping cost or local pickup in northern RI.

A couple years after I bought my 1959 Ford I needed to pull the transmission. The crossmember at the rear of the trans had been welded to the frame. Apparently a previous owner had broken most of the crossmember to frame bolts so they just welded the crossmeber back to the frame when done with whatever else they were 'fixin'. I took the time to fix it correctly while I had it all apart.

Hinckley-Myers J-1039-1 Clutch Spring Tool for 1939 Buick. Used, in excellent shape. $10 plus actual postage cost. SOLD

I removed the leg. There is a 3/8" hole in the plywood for a plunger (image 1). Image 2 shows all the parts in order. The peg hinges, then the plunger, then the flat steel washer. Images 3 and 4 show the details of the top of the peg with the brackets turned, the flat stops it from hinging out too far, the 2 indents are for the plunger ball to lock into.

I have a 1939 Special Sport Coupe with the folding jump seats. Here are 3 pictures. The support rod on mine hinges but does not have any ratcheting or locking mechanism. As Leif mentioned the back side of the leg has a flat and a notch, picture 3 should show that. Note that I cannot guarantee this is correct original, my car was restored long before I bought it, but it looks correct to me. Hopefully this reply is not too late, I just saw your post. Let me know if you would like better picture or more information off my car. Dave Edit: This statement is incorrect "does not have any ratcheting or locking mechanism". After removing all the parts there is a plunger in the seat base and notches in the leg top. See posts below.

Take a look at this older thread. It links to an article that suggests 1/4 inch hole. Edit to add: My 39 Special started overheating a couple years ago, the thermostat was sticking shut. If only it could be that easy every time!