hchris

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About hchris

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  1. hchris

    Lost lights and horn 1930 cf

    Yep, Clum switch at the base of the steering column is where I would start, all of the wiring for horn and lights comes through there
  2. No, rear axle nuts are conventional right hand thread both sides
  3. hchris

    25 Buick fuel problems

    Just noticed this from your first post; could this also be an indicator of the float struggling to hold the needle on its seat ?
  4. hchris

    25 Buick fuel problems

    If I could perhaps add my thoughts here; you mention the above aspect twice in your observations, before and after playing with the carb. My first impression is that the stumbling with exhaust backfires ( technically after fire) is indicative of an excessive rich mixture, particularly when you get to the point where it wont start, I suspect its flooded at that point, taking the plugs out should reveal this as they will probably be black and sooty. If this is the case then you need to establish why its flooding, you say that it ran ok for an hour (I`m assuming that the car was stationary). So two things come to mind: 1. the transition from idle to opening the throttle could mean that jets/mixture adjustments are not correct; 2.( this I find more likely as you say you have added an electric pump), is that as you open the throttle and the float level drops, the pump, in trying to meet the increased demand overwhelms the float/needle valve and floods the carb. Have you checked the pressure output of the pump ? A vacuum tank fed carb was designed to run at 0.5 psi delivery pressure, the average output of an electric pump is somewhere between 1.5 and 3 psi and could even be higher depending on the pump. At idle with minimal demand from the pump the float may manage to hold the needle on its seat, but once you reach a point where pump demand increases and the float is jiggling around with the float level changing attitude when in motion, it could well be that the mechanism is incapable of shutting off the pump flow.
  5. hchris

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    OK so there we have it, out with the multimeter and check resistance whilst warming up the engine
  6. hchris

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    So let me "fess up here" - I'm not a Lincoln person, nevertheless temp senders generally fall into two categories, resistance based or voltage based. For the purpose of your exercise you only need to establish if the sender value changes with heat, so lets first assume it works on resistance, do the previously mentioned resistance measuring with the multimeter as the engine warms up. If you get no response with this then reconnect the wire to the sender unit, set your multimeter to volts and take a voltage reading between the guage and sender unit as the engine warms up, looking for a voltage change consistent with temp change (it's worth first measuring the cold voltage). If you get a response in either of these exercises you have at least established if the sender is working, or not. If you get lucky enough to find the sender is working then your next step would be to see if it's the correct one for your guage. Having so far established that the guage is working, it's logical to see if the sender is working before pulling anything apart.
  7. hchris

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Well done, that's where product familiarity is great. Given the change in current flow, couldn't you still use a multimeter to ascertain if the sender is working ? accuracy may be another matter, but at least you can prove/disprove its function.
  8. hchris

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Ok good news with grounding the sensor wire now you know the guage works. For sure the sender unit needs to be compatible with the guage, so if you are not using original components you're not on a level playing field. The sender unit is at the receiving end of the 6v line passing through the guage to ground, it is a large resistor which varies it's electrical values when exposed to heat, as such the changes in resistance affects how the guage reads, if the sender resistance isn't matched to the guage then the guage won't work or will be inaccurate. To check the sender, disconnect the sender/guage wire and connect a multimeter between the sender and earth whilst cold, noting the resistance value. Keep the multimeter connected between sender and earth and run the engine, as the coolant temp rises the resistance value should change, this at least confirms that the sender is working. Assuming that this works you now have to determine if you have a matching sender/guage resistance, so a bit of research will be required or fitment of a known value sender.
  9. hchris

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Not sure if I'm reading you correctly, but what you should be doing is, with ignition on, remove the wire from the sender and ground it. Your guage should read max temp, if not then the guage is faulty. To check the sender, connect it with an ohm meter and note its cold resistance value, then run the engine and look for a change in the resistance as it warms up. The specific resistance values applicable to temp changes vary from one make to another and you would have to search for your values, nevertheless if the resistance changes with heat then the sender is working, how accurate it is may be questionable.
  10. hchris

    muffler explosion

    Yep, choke closed would do it. Over rich mixture (black exhaust smoke) is a good indicator, as already mentioned unburnt fuel in the muffler probably ignited with hot carbon deposits. Ignition timing (retarded) would have to be so far off that the engine would probably not run at all. Another possibility is a burnt exhaust valve, not seating properly could cause exhaust (still burning) gases into a fuel soaked muffler with the same result.
  11. hchris

    Tail lamp wire sheathing

    Dont know if its still around but I once used the flexible sheathing from a bathroom shower head
  12. hchris

    Vacuum leak

    What makes you think its a vacuum leak ? Sounds more like a sticking throttle or linkage if you can tap the pedal and have the revs drop.
  13. hchris

    Universal joint, 30cf 4dr

    Ball and trunnion is the name, there are a number of replacement sources. Most Mopars of the era used this type of joint.
  14. hchris

    Cold oil

    How about disconnecting the guage line at the block and briefly spinning the engine over to see if oil comes out ? Keep some rag close by !!
  15. The fitting has an inbuilt venturi fed by the hole which you have blanked off. The venturi is designed to create an even bigger (atmospheric) pressure drop for the vacuum source at the top of the inner tank, which in turn will lessen the effect of manifold vacuum drop as you open the throttle; particularly helpful if you have a long uphill drag. Of course this is really only beneficial when you have a inlet manifold source of vacuum, its therefore unnecessary with an oil pump vacuum source which increases vacuum with oil pump (engine) rpm.