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About hchris

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  1. hchris

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    As to finding the timing marks, can you access the front of the flywheel via a splash cover at the bottom of the bell housing ? or perhaps remove the starter motor for a better view, this would at least allow you to mark them for better visibility. Of course this wouldnt solve the problem if the flywheel has been fitted incorrectly. Which means you are left with how to verify the timing, painful as it may seem I would be removing the valve cover/s and slowly turning the engine by hand (two pairs of hands might be better) to get #1 at tdc, verifiable by watching #6 valves as they begin to rock, ie at the point where #6 inlet just begins to open and #6 exhaust is closing you would be at tdc #1 within a degre or two. At this point you should hopefully see the distributor rotor pointing to #1 ignition lead and the points just opening, you might also chalk a mark on the crank pulley to help bettter with tuning or further fault finding. In all of this if it sounds like I'm telling you how to suck eggs, then ignore the above.😊
  2. hchris

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    Ok, so if the distributor is suspect try a vac guage as Ben suggested; you are aiming for a steady 18 - 20 inches at idle to start with, move the distributor back or forth to achieve this. If you can get a steady idle reading then take the revs up and down and watch for steady vac changes, hesitation or erratic readings will need investigating, plenty of good info for deciphering faults on the net. I find the vac guage a far more useful tool in tuning than religious adherance to timing marks etc. with changes in fuel and so on, the original settings aren't necessarily the best for our engines anymore.
  3. hchris

    Exhaust smoke and oil consumption

    I'm thinking if you burn a lot of oil the plugs will be fouled, or at least have a lot of carbon on them. Try putting a catch can over the breather / draft tube and see what shows up.
  4. hchris

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    Dave has given an accurate picture of distributor functions, but, just wondering why you have focused on the distributor as the cause of rough running ?
  5. hchris

    1948 Chrysler Windsor problems

    The clicking noise just prior to stalling could well be the generator control relay dropping in and out as the revs fall off, from memory this is mounted on the engine bay bulkhead which acts as a sound board. Popping through the manifold and lack of compression in #6 would probably be a burnt valve, you could get lucky with adjustment. Sounds like you need a copy of the wiring system for the electrical stuff, cars of this era aren't all that complicated, get a copy and blow it up and trace the various circuits. Some of your symptoms sound like poor earthing, the dip switch probably has some crusty or loose connections. Gas guage coulld just be bad earth on the sender unit at the tank, or pull it and clean the wiper arm.
  6. hchris

    Misfire Teaser - straight flathead 6

    Just wondering why you didnt compression test #5 ? Ok misread your original post, so as suggested have you swapped the offending lead, had a good look at the distributor cap ?
  7. hchris

    39 Chrysler Brakes all new, NO PEDAL??

    Yes, brake shoe adjustment is paramount with these brakes, absolutely hopeless if you haven't gone through the correct procedure to set the clearances. Dont know how many times I've seen postings starting with "cant get a pedal".
  8. hchris

    34-46 Chrysler 6cyl motor

    Its been a work in progress for many years, not sure what the end result will be. It's actually a CB, the longer wheel base version of the CA, also I'm living downunder so it's RHD and there's a number of differences including, you might notice, the exhaust manifold which has to fit around the steering column.
  9. hchris

    29' DeSoto K steering problem

    Certainly start with the previous information, as 90 years on most of the worm gears are well and truly worn out. Drag links and idler arm have spring loaded ball and cup arrangements at each end, and generally they are badly worn giving lots of free play, so best to start first with the box and work out towards the ends.
  10. hchris

    34-46 Chrysler 6cyl motor

    Have a look at my response to your buy / sell request
  11. hchris

    34-46 Chrysler 6cyl motor

    Up to 1934 Chrysler (assuming this is what you are looking at) used what is known as a "partial water jacket" block which is quite different to the 39 "C22" shown in the photo, significantly the exhaust manifolds were very different, as the down pipe came from the middle of the manifold as opposed to the rear of manifold as on the "C22". The variation between the blocks makes for different engine mounts, bell housing / transmission mounts, starter motor, amongst other things. You can play mix and match, but, if you are looking to install a later engine into 34 or earlier Chrysler products its not a straightforward job.
  12. hchris

    how do I get a vin number?

    Have you looked on the outer face of the left front chassis rail in the vicinity of the spring hangars, often the serial (vin) number was stamped into the chassis, I have also seen them on some models further back on the chassis adjacent the cowl area.
  13. Can I just elaborate on the relationship of oil vac pumps with regards to oil pressure and gas, I think some people may have the wrong end of the stick. When you have a vacuum tank with the oil pump being the vacuum source, as opposed to manifold pressure, there is the probability that losing oil pressure will also mean losing vacuum. If you lose vacuum then you lose the ability to draw fuel from the tank, eventually the vac tank will run dry and consequently the engine will quit, how long this will take is debatable. So in essence, the amount of oil pressure is not influenced in any way by the vac tank, unless of course you have the situation of fuel contaminating the oil.
  14. hchris

    Ignition coil gets hot

    Nevertheless if the points are closed it will get hot.
  15. hchris

    Ignition coil gets hot

    Most any coil will get hot after that time, particularly if the distributor points are closed, not a good practice to be doing this. 🤐 In short, you have the battery current flowing through the coil direct to earth and the coil will heat up just like the old bar type electric radiators.