hchris

Members
  • Content count

    591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About hchris

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  1. Not a fuse as such, but a bimetallic switch built into the headlight switch. If there is a short circuit in the headlight wiring, the switch heats up and opens contacts to prevent burnt wiring. Don't forget the floor mounted dipper switch is in the circuit as well, have you tried turning on headlights and activating the dipper switch to see what happens ?
  2. Yes good call indeed, however I think those valves have been going a lot longer than the 1500 miles you are attributing to your new carb and lean mixture. I strongly suspect your diagnosis of poor running before the carb change, would certainly have been due to these burnt/worn valves.
  3. Not sure which carb you are talking about; if it idles ok and runs smooth enough at low revs then its probably not an idle mixture problem. From what I understand you are bogging down at higher revs ? going into second ? if so this would indicate a main metering jet problem. So, I suggest you have a fiddle with the lower adjustment and see if this improves things, if not then you may have needle and seat problems or perhaps a float setting issue; it would help if there was a little more background info, such as when this first started, you say the carb was rebuilt - has this fault occurred immediately after it was rebuilt? As to the distributor being t fault, certainly could be the cause of not wanting to accelerate, but it wont give you black sooty plugs, that's a carb issue - perhaps you have more than one problem?? I would start with the carb first off.
  4. Dark plugs would indicate an over rich mixture, hence carb issues, which could be faulty choke, stuck float, etc.
  5. If you haven't got it at the guage outlet then it wont be anywhere else, take the pump off (not a big job) and prime it before refitting. Don't forget to get the timing right before removal
  6. Yes, the design of the Dodge pumps really dictate that they should be primed before installation, as suggested you might try back priming through the guage fitting, and I really wouldn't be starting it until I saw some pressure.
  7. You know if you are 15 years of age, going to keep this car for the rest of your life and use it as a daily driver on the freeway, then you could justifiably be concerned over oils. The fact is that today almost any oil is way improved over what was available back in the 20`s, you will have a better chance of finding who lives on Mars than a definitive answer on "which is the best oil". Choose a quality brand 20w40 (assuming you`re not in an extreme climate environment), change it regularly and worry about the important things in life.
  8. As with all things from T J Richards of this period, you will find that there are many subtle differences between US and Aus. production; your vehicle is not uncommon down here, do a search on some of the Aus. related websites. Sadly there are very few records of TJ`s production numbers, but if you do a search on Richards, there are a number of good books on their auto manufacturing history with associated photos.
  9. Nope, the instrument voltage stabiliser would be about the size of your thumb (or smaller) and I would guess it would be attached to the rear of the instrument panel. If you can see the temp and/or fuel guage connectors, trace the wires back from them, it will be close by. I would try and remove, or at least, ease back the instrument panel to have a look; you will probably need to unscrew the speedo cable connector off of the speedo to allow you to wriggle the instrument panel forward far enough to see behind it, oh, and disconnect the battery beforehand just in case their are some wires that come adrift.
  10. Well it stands to reason that if the regulator is not being powered then none of the gauges will work. My first port of call would be to check if the regulator has power to it.
  11. Take the lead off the tank sender unit and touch briefly to good ground with power on, careful of sparks. The guage should go full deflection towards full; if so guage is good and problem is the sender or sender poorly earthed, if not most probably guage is bad.
  12. 34 DR Dodge will do, but the side louvres are different, so depends which bits you are wanting.
  13. If you know anyone in the Dodge Bros Club, ask for a look at their latest newsletter, there is an absolute cracker article on how to go about it.
  14. Yes, the method you describe in the first post will work. As already stated, turning the crank back will allow the timing chain to slacken a little, wont damage anything but next time you turn it forward the slack will have to be taken up again, and, during this small amount of crank travel, the cam will remain stationary. I`m with Rusty, why second guess what the engineers designed, set the clearances as per specs.
  15. I did notice that after running for some time, gas was coming out of the pipe leading to the engine flooding it. I`m confused by this, are you referring to the pipe between the vac tank to carb ? and this occurs with the engine running ?