hchris

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About hchris

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  1. hchris

    56 idle speed, ignition timing, etc.

    OK , well how about knocking the timing back a few degrees to set say 16" vacuum as suggested by Beemon, then see how it runs. Another factor could be the carb float setting too high, this will make it run a little richer and at idle you may not get enough adjustment out of the mixture screws. But its important that you try these things one at a time to see what effect they have.
  2. hchris

    Gas heater

    Still used today in light aircraft.
  3. hchris

    Ignition Coils

    Perhaps it might be easier if you were to tell us what make of car it is, someone may then respond with a wiring diagram. The answer to your first question is yes, some coils have a built-in ballast reistor, some have an external resistor.
  4. First you need to disconnect the drop arm from the tie rod, then the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis. I find then its easiest to remove the steering wheel and drag the whole lot up through the floor (having of course removed the floor boards/panels). Maybe remove the steering wheel first rather than later, oh and there will be wires running down the inside of the steering column that need to be disconnected.
  5. The whole point of using the vac guage is to fine tune, get the basic settings with the timing light then use the vac guage to adjust timing and mixtures to obtain the highest vac reading, then back timing off to lower your highest vac reading an inch or two. Follow up with a road test and listen for pinging, if you encounter pinging back off timing in small increments until it stops.
  6. And how does it drive, notice any difference ?
  7. You need to use a vac source direct from the manifold, taking a vac line off the carb wont do it for you as the vac source is usually plumbed in above the throttle plate. Alternative sources like the brake booster port or PCV manifold connector are fine ie any port that taps straight into the inlet manifold can be used.(make sure you have an airtight connection) The benefit of vac tuning is that you get to see when the engine is running at best, as opposed to manufacturers figures, which are a good starting point but dont make allowances for todays fuels, engine wear etc. all of which can affect engine performance. And as Rivman says, when you get to the highest vac reading back off an inch or so of manifold pressure before locking everything in place, this avoids potential pinging.
  8. hchris

    84 Rolls-Total Electrical Blackout-Need Advice

    Simple check, hook another battery up see if it makes a difference.
  9. hchris

    Kingston Vacuum Amplifier

    Whilst I wouldnt question your reasoning on the necessity of a vac amplifier, in the real world a long hill or even a strong headwind at large throttle openings, is a not uncommon reason for a vac tank not being able to keep up with engine demands. Most of us would probably never encounter this problem as the majority of our motoring is at city speeds on the straight and level; commercial vehicles were a different matter with loads and distances significantly greater often requiring the fitment of a booster.
  10. hchris

    New wheel cylinders or resleeve ?

    Correct, I was over simpliying things in an attempt to highlight that the cylinders were step bored, there is in fact a whole lot more to the science of this feature but I didnt think it was relevant to the topic. Mea Culpa.
  11. The shaft end gear needs an awful big press to push the gear off, in my case it took 7 tons of pressure to get the old bush out.
  12. hchris

    New wheel cylinders or resleeve ?

    Been down this road recently with my 34 CB Chrysler, the only viable option was a resleeve. Thing to note however, as well as the mount plate spacing problem, the rear cylinders are step bored ie smaller at one end of the cylinder than the other, Chrysler`s logic to rear lockup prevention (would`nt be surprised if yours were the same) Our brake guru machinist advised that the amount of difference this would make in a slam stop would be insignificant, hence they were resleeved parallel and so far all is well. I too get annoyed when you ask a question and don`t get an answer, but you do get a heap of off topic advice.
  13. As well as the above, look for The Standard Catalogue of Chrysler by Krause Publications.
  14. hchris

    Quiz

    Looks to me like the vac mechanism is causing a ground of the primary wire when it moves the plate.
  15. hchris

    1936 320 cu in spark advance confusion

    As to finding the timing marks, can you access the front of the flywheel via a splash cover at the bottom of the bell housing ? or perhaps remove the starter motor for a better view, this would at least allow you to mark them for better visibility. Of course this wouldnt solve the problem if the flywheel has been fitted incorrectly. Which means you are left with how to verify the timing, painful as it may seem I would be removing the valve cover/s and slowly turning the engine by hand (two pairs of hands might be better) to get #1 at tdc, verifiable by watching #6 valves as they begin to rock, ie at the point where #6 inlet just begins to open and #6 exhaust is closing you would be at tdc #1 within a degre or two. At this point you should hopefully see the distributor rotor pointing to #1 ignition lead and the points just opening, you might also chalk a mark on the crank pulley to help bettter with tuning or further fault finding. In all of this if it sounds like I'm telling you how to suck eggs, then ignore the above.😊