Hemi Dude

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About Hemi Dude

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1939

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  • Biography
    52 years as a Chrysler product mechanic up to Service Manager at several Dealers. 22 years as private repair shop owner and operator for repair of MOPAR products.
  1. Windshield

    It is the same glass as that used in an 87-89 'J' body LeBaron convertible. Maybe later year models as well, but I would look for the specific years mentioned. I have one in my 89 TC.
  2. odd brake question

    After installing and completely bleeding the system, you need to adjust the brake light switch so brake lights come with about a 1/4" brake pedal travel. Remove all the wires related to the ABS system from under the hood. CUT the ABS harness off just before it enters the passenger compartment on the right side of the car. You can leave everything inside the car or IF YOU ARE A PURIST, remove the ABS computer and the entire harness, inside and engine compartment, intact.
  3. Tachometer calibration

    My thinking goes much the same as Reaper1. I would alter the concept a small bit. With an inductive tachometer or any wired one, have the engine idling at it's normal warmed up idle speed. Then, with the clear face off, carefully install the needle at the same RPM as the external tachometer reads. Push it on lightly at first as you may miss by a little. The in dash tachometer does not always rest at (zero) at least mine does not. If it appears to be in the correct position, then press it on fairly firmly. This should get you as close as humanly possible without laboratory facilities.
  4. Tachometer calibration

    You are challenging! It's late at night here, maybe where you are too. I'll work on that in the morning unless someone else wants to come up with an answer before me.
  5. odd brake question

    See our ABS replacement article You can also 'talk' with me since I did it and wrote it.
  6. odd brake question

    If the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor as you sit with your foot on the brake pedal, such as at a traffic light, the problem is most likely a defective 'Hydraulic Actuating Assembly' commonly referred to as the master cylinder.
  7. Oh yes TNtc, you did an excellent job. My greatest fault is that I have for over 50 years been the guy who looks at someones car and finds 'fault'. That is because THAT was my job! Ask my wife, she cleans the house on a daily bases, it looks like the Reagan Library, then I come in and what do I say? "What happened to that item over there, it is out of place" THEN the stuff hits the rotary oscillator!
  8. Idle

    What I meant was, has the speed indicator needle (speedometer) ALWAYS been functional even if the numbers were not turning? This question is related to the stalling and the aforementioned speed 'Distance Sensor'. If the distance sensor stops working at any time, the speedometer needle would simultaneously fall to "0" which would be a direct indication of a sensor failure. I am just trying to pin it down.
  9. Idle

    Coco, you have not mentioned anything about a speedometer problem. Does your speedometer operate correctly ALL the time?
  10. You need to replace your ABS Brake ACCUMULATOR! It looks like the original one, which means it is most likely bad.
  11. Idle

    OVERDRIVE = That is the gear shift position most people use. It gives you all the available gears and also upshifts quicker. Your mechanic could not clean air flow sensor, you do not have one. What fault codes did he get? Please inform us. Did he clean the throttle body in the area where the throttle plate closes in the throttle body? It requires actual physical action on the part of the mechanic. Unfortunately mostly women, but a lot of unknowing men as well, are lead astray by persons acting like qualified mechanics. Cleaning the throttle body is best performed by sticking your finger down into the throttle body while it is held wide open and actually 'feeling' the crud and rubbing on it, to dissolve it, intermittently spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body. Any person can do it even you Coco. Just wear plastic gloves, as thin as surgeons gloves so you can feel the obstructing buildup and feel when it is gone. Mechanics would most often charge EXTRA for this operation when doing a tune-up. I did it as part of the tune-up job because it was actually more productive and made a bigger difference in the way the engine ran than replacing the spark plugs which was rarely needed. There are few here who have over 55 years actual experience in the field of working on Chrysler built cars, who can give you advice from 'real life' experience.
  12. 16 Valve Engine park Plug reoval

    In any event, you will need to remove the valve cover to correct the spark plug well seal. PM me if you want to chat.
  13. removal of center console

    Did you see the 'ALLEN SCREW' on the front, lower portion of the shift knob itself? Loosen it so the shift knob is able to slide up and down easily on the shift lever. In order to free the center spring loaded button, merely take hold of the shift knob when it is in a down position and give it a quick pull upwards without hesitation. The entire knob and button will come off together without a hitch. There is also a string (cord) attached to the shift mechanism and goes to the shift indicator which must be disconnected. It is found under that carpet covered cardboard on the passenger side of the console. A paper shop manual is what you want, so you can leaf through it. Scanned files for a shop manual are ineffective. Be sure to get the BLUE shop manual for the 89 year model. Some sellers may say it is for an 88 TC because the book is copyright 1988.
  14. Idle

    Do you plan to clean the throttle body yourself? There is no need to disassemble anything more than the removal of the air intake hose that goes from the air cleaner to the throttle body opening.
  15. Idle

    Try cleaning the throttle body as I described above. It will almost certainly correct your problem. I have done hundreds over the years. Which engine do you have Coco?