Hemi Dude

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About Hemi Dude

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1939

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    52 years as a Chrysler product mechanic up to Service Manager at several Dealers. 22 years as private repair shop owner and operator for repair of MOPAR products.
  1. Go to the http://www.allpar.com/model/tc.html website. Then to See our ABS replacement article That information is also at your fingertips in my member information every time I post.
  2. When you say "Plain Jane", what do you mean? Another ABS system or just regular vacuum booster and normal master cylinder? PM me for more information.
  3. You have to know that this could not be correct, unless it is a repaint 200438 1989 Arctic White Ginger SOHC
  4. You guys may or may not be interested, but I don't ever put the outside glass back in place. The inner glass which is adhered to the inside of the roof is sufficient to keep water out and that is all you need.
  5. Try pulling just the fan first. If you still need more room you will have to pull the radiator with the intercooler as they are attached at the top and bottom.
  6. " Drive down the road and the gauge goes from no press to 1/2 gauge." That really sounds like a loose connection in the wiring at or from the sending unit. It could even be up in the dash wiring. I have the same thing on one of my cars, under hard acceleration the gauge drops to 'nothing' then comes back when I back off the throttle. I haven't even wasted my time looking.
  7. Well... I didn't exactly miss it, From above: "Consider of course the timing belt, the water pump, by-pass hose and the crossover tube below the intake manifold and the short extension that extends out to the radiator hose." I know I'm being a little picky (but not really) Anyway, as long as the machine shop does what they need to do, your 3.0L should turn out fine. By the way, do you have any sort of valve lash 'noise' sounding like a bad lifter? If so, check all the hydraulic lash adjusters, they are mounted in the rocker arms and make direct contact with the valves.
  8. There are 2 versions, the earlier built 89 cars had one that looked like a bell from the top and was unpainted metal and was only an oil pressure sender, the later 89 and 90's had one that had a multi wire connector at the top and was a slim black unit, partially made of plastic. Since they both mount at the same place on the engine, under the intake manifold and to the right of the dipstick tube approximately 4 inches from the rear of the engine block where the transaxle bolts to the block. It is at the same location as where the oil tube which supplies oil to the turbo is connected to the engine block. You might try to get to it from underneath the car. That is also how you access the distributor if you need to replace the HALL PLATE.
  9. This is a laminated window. You can remove the outer piece of glass and not affect the inner glass which is larger in circumference. This is also the piece of glass that is sealed to the inside of the roof. You can pry the outer glass loose by finding an area that is already somewhat loose. I was fortunate to come up with a hard plastic tool used by windshield replacers. You can use a screwdriver or an ordinary table knife or any other implement that can get into the space between the roof and the outer glass. If you are really careful, you won't hurt the top. The wider the blade, the less load against the roof. Using the 'tool' gently and very slowly, pry the glass loose. It may take some time, then again from the sound of what you wrote, it may come out very easily
  10. "that's almost a rebuilt engine " Well, really just the top end. We own 2 of these 3.0L vehicles. My 85 Voyager has a 3.0L that I installed years ago, replacing a 2.6L four cylinder. They are great engines after you have the valve guides taken care of. Be very sure to keep the cooling system 'rust free' and the engine will run well into 300,000 miles. The other is in the wife's 94 Dodge Shadow.
  11. Yep, the nut was about to fall off. The car had apparently struck something which required the replacement of the lower control arms and struts. Someone had forgotten to tighten that nut. I did after taking the picture. It went on as far as the nut on the right side.
  12. I must say, in all the years I worked in Chrysler Dealers, I never came across a 3.0L which was at a point of a "much needed valve job." There have been plenty, gobs and gobs, in need of the valve guides replaced (exhaust guides primarily) because of excessive oil smoke at idle and on acceleration from a stop in traffic. Is this what you are referring to? So what else you ask? Consider of course the timing belt, the water pump, by-pass hose and the crossover tube below the intake manifold and the short extension that extends out to the radiator hose. While you have it torn down that far, you may want to replace the front crankshaft seal. Check the oil pressure sending unit for oil leaks and have a good look at all 3 engine/trans mounts. There may be core plugs that you can reach more easily that need replacement. Check both the block and the 2 heads. This should get you started. I am in AZ so help with a shop in not something I can help with. This is a good time to deal with the A/C since the compressor has to be accessed and moved out of the way while doing the work on the heads.
  13. I agree with you. I use to live in Jersey, in River Edge. Worked at several Chrysler product dealers back in the 60s. I know what cold is and the joy of working under a car on the lift as the ice and snow thaws. It's so much better for the cars too. You can look under a 30 year old car and see absolutely NO rust. That is a real benefit. Yes, it does have a loose nut! This is an 89 TC.
  14. Those are the benefits of New Jersey, but it hardly ever gets over 100 degrees there. It was a beautiful sunny 90 degrees here in AZ today, but we must suffer with temps as high as 126 degrees here in the summer. WE JUST LOVE IT...
  15. You must mean this one TwinCamFan. It just happens to be my 1985 Plymouth Voyager.