Hemi Dude

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About Hemi Dude

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1939

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    52 years as a Chrysler product mechanic up to Service Manager at several Dealers. 22 years as private repair shop owner and operator for repair of MOPAR products.
  1. There are 2 versions, the earlier built 89 cars had one that looked like a bell from the top and was unpainted metal and was only an oil pressure sender, the later 89 and 90's had one that had a multi wire connector at the top and was a slim black unit, partially made of plastic. Since they both mount at the same place on the engine, under the intake manifold and to the right of the dipstick tube approximately 4 inches from the rear of the engine block where the transaxle bolts to the block. It is at the same location as where the oil tube which supplies oil to the turbo is connected to the engine block. You might try to get to it from underneath the car. That is also how you access the distributor if you need to replace the HALL PLATE.
  2. This is a laminated window. You can remove the outer piece of glass and not affect the inner glass which is larger in circumference. This is also the piece of glass that is sealed to the inside of the roof. You can pry the outer glass loose by finding an area that is already somewhat loose. I was fortunate to come up with a hard plastic tool used by windshield replacers. You can use a screwdriver or an ordinary table knife or any other implement that can get into the space between the roof and the outer glass. If you are really careful, you won't hurt the top. The wider the blade, the less load against the roof. Using the 'tool' gently and very slowly, pry the glass loose. It may take some time, then again from the sound of what you wrote, it may come out very easily
  3. "that's almost a rebuilt engine " Well, really just the top end. We own 2 of these 3.0L vehicles. My 85 Voyager has a 3.0L that I installed years ago, replacing a 2.6L four cylinder. They are great engines after you have the valve guides taken care of. Be very sure to keep the cooling system 'rust free' and the engine will run well into 300,000 miles. The other is in the wife's 94 Dodge Shadow.
  4. Yep, the nut was about to fall off. The car had apparently struck something which required the replacement of the lower control arms and struts. Someone had forgotten to tighten that nut. I did after taking the picture. It went on as far as the nut on the right side.
  5. I must say, in all the years I worked in Chrysler Dealers, I never came across a 3.0L which was at a point of a "much needed valve job." There have been plenty, gobs and gobs, in need of the valve guides replaced (exhaust guides primarily) because of excessive oil smoke at idle and on acceleration from a stop in traffic. Is this what you are referring to? So what else you ask? Consider of course the timing belt, the water pump, by-pass hose and the crossover tube below the intake manifold and the short extension that extends out to the radiator hose. While you have it torn down that far, you may want to replace the front crankshaft seal. Check the oil pressure sending unit for oil leaks and have a good look at all 3 engine/trans mounts. There may be core plugs that you can reach more easily that need replacement. Check both the block and the 2 heads. This should get you started. I am in AZ so help with a shop in not something I can help with. This is a good time to deal with the A/C since the compressor has to be accessed and moved out of the way while doing the work on the heads.
  6. I agree with you. I use to live in Jersey, in River Edge. Worked at several Chrysler product dealers back in the 60s. I know what cold is and the joy of working under a car on the lift as the ice and snow thaws. It's so much better for the cars too. You can look under a 30 year old car and see absolutely NO rust. That is a real benefit. Yes, it does have a loose nut! This is an 89 TC.
  7. Those are the benefits of New Jersey, but it hardly ever gets over 100 degrees there. It was a beautiful sunny 90 degrees here in AZ today, but we must suffer with temps as high as 126 degrees here in the summer. WE JUST LOVE IT...
  8. You must mean this one TwinCamFan. It just happens to be my 1985 Plymouth Voyager.
  9. I agree with Reaper, it should not change the camber setting which is the only adjustment that can be made other than toe in/out.
  10. You could replace the strut that is mounted to the subframe / transaxle with an adjustable "Dog Bone" type. This will hold the engine steady under hard acceleration. Frankly, you really don't need the others.
  11. I have attended many times while living in CA. Even after moving to AZ, I have attended. Unfortunately, this year the Spring Fling falls on the same weekend as my marriage anniversary, so I will not be attending the Spring Fling this year. They also have a Fall Fling which is usually around the 3rd weekend in October. I may attend that one this year.
  12. It would appear that you possibly pulled the drive axle out beyond the sealing surface, which is only about 1/2 inch. When you finished your strut installation you pushed it back in. If you have no further leak, you are home free.
  13. Here you go Larry Carlson, a whole bunch of TC parts that have already been removed from the cars. Ready to inventory and sell. Ojai is just up Hwy 33 from Ventura, CA. Probably 35 minutes away from my old shop in Saticoy.
  14. Yes. ATF+4 is the equivalent. It should read on the container, that it meets the Chrysler requirements. Check it out.
  15. Other manufacturers sell ATF+4 labeled just that way. This is the MOPAR 7176 trans fluid for the 604 / 41TE.