Hemi Dude

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About Hemi Dude

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1939

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  • Biography
    52 years as a Chrysler product mechanic up to Service Manager at several Dealers. 22 years as private repair shop owner and operator for repair of MOPAR products.

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  1. Hemi Dude

    Heater Core

    ? ? I've always been told "I'm not exactly PC" I guess this proves it.
  2. Hemi Dude

    Heater Core

    You really wouldn't want this Plumber / Munk working on your TC. Watch it again and you will see why, if you are observant.
  3. Hemi Dude

    More brake issues

    Yes, it could be the pressure switch. I doubt you have access to the brake pressure gauge shown in the factory shop manual, MST-6163 & adaptor 6244, that would tell you the hydraulic pressure in the system. If a pressure of between 2320 and 2755 lb is not built up, the pump motor will not turn off. REPLACE the pressure switch.
  4. I was impressed by your writeup of the car on eBay. You have a nice car there, needing a few minor 'fixes'. Hope you find a good home for it. I have a red one also, as you can see.
  5. Hemi Dude

    seat control buttons

    There is one Phillips head screw on each of the 4 plastic track covers. Remove them, then 2 13 mm headed bolts at the front of the seat track mechanism and 2 nuts at the rear.
  6. Hemi Dude

    seat control buttons

    You need to repair the back side of the panel that the switches are mounted to. There is NO PROBLEM with the switches themselves. Anybody have a photo of the backside of the switch panel? Put it up so 'beardog49' can see it.
  7. Hemi Dude

    seat control buttons

    Since the switches for the seats are mounted with screws from the inside of the console, you will have to remove some portions of the console. Right? I suspect that the switches are loose, that DOES NOT MEAN that the switch is broken, just the mounting tabs that the switch is attached to. Now tell us what is really wrong and maybe we can help.
  8. Something I found on RockAuto which you should all take a look at if you need to do electrical repairs. The DORMAN 85665 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 12 Gauge w/o Cap looks most promising for the ABS circuit repair. WVE/AIRTEX/WELLS 6G1030 {#88922375, FH1} Flat Type (ATO) Inline Fuse Holder -- 30 Amp (Includes Fuse) Two 4` leads. Info $4.67 Add to Cart BUSSMANN HHX MAXI-FUSE® In-line holder, fuse holder with cover, 20-60 amps, # 6 lead wire $5.49 Add to Cart DORMAN 85665 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 12 Gauge w/o Cap Info $1.46 Add to Cart DORMAN 84938 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 16 Gauge - up to 20 Amps Info $1.61 Add to Cart DORMAN 84939 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; 14 Gauge Waterproof Info $1.71 Add to Cart DORMAN 85670 Fuse Holder - Blade Style; Mini Style Info $3.68 Add to Cart
  9. Hemi Dude

    Brake Accumulator Removal

    #1, Do you have a Factory Shop Manual for your TC? #2, Try listening with a stethoscope or a long screw driver, to the handle end, at your ear to locate the component that is "humming". #3, Can't diagnose a vibration from here. #4, The fluid level is higher due to the fact that the old accumulator may have filled completely with brake fluid before the pump was turned off, whereas the new one fills only partially since the pressure on the diaphragm with the nitrogen behind it attains the required hydraulic pressure required sooner in order to turn off the pump. With the old accumulator, you actually had NO back-up pressure available to operate the ABS on/off pulses whereas now you do. It would be a good idea to bleed the entire system, replacing all the brake fluid with new DOT3 brake fluid from a sealed container. You would need at least 1 quart container of brake fluid.
  10. Hemi Dude

    looking for lower timing cover

    Is this a 'Common-Block 2.2 or the early style that has a fuel pump cover plate on the forward side of the block next to the water pump adaptor? I do have various new and used lower timing belt covers.
  11. We can all wait until he has a chance to check it out further. The SMELL TEST is the simplest, quickest and requires no tools or equipment except a NOSE.
  12. The first thing to do in diagnosing this is to start the engine and walk back to the exhaust smoke. Take a good whiff. Does the smoke smell like antifreeze or oil? If it smells like antifreeze, it is likely a head gasket. The 5# difference in compression pressure is not significant, in my opinion. If the exhaust smoke smells like oil, it is the turbocharger that has failed, ir will need to be repaired or replaced. If you suspect the turbocharger, you can run one more simple test. Disconnect AND PLUG the oil feed line to the turbocharger. Shown in picture. Then run the engine and the smoke should diminish after a while. It might take some time since the oil that is already in the exhaust system has to be burnt away. This is a picture of an 8 valve engine, but the oil line that runs to the turbo is connected at the same location, right neat to the oil pressure sending unit.
  13. Hemi Dude

    Ding, ding, ding

    "Rather than attribute this to Italian electrical serendipity and ignore it, I thought I'd ask the assembled brain trust, "any ideas?" First, the wiring harness for the TCs was manufactured in Spain. So we cannot blame the Italians for that one. Secondly, the wiring was made to Chrysler Corporation specifications and frankly, I cannot visually distinguish a TC wiring harness from any domestic harness such as one for a LeBaron. You picture your TC without a roof, was it parked in the barn 'topless'? If that was the case, moisture could enter electrical connections more easily. I know I haven't helped in the location of that "ding, ding, ding", but I did get a chance to do a little typing. If this condition reappears, we'll take a stab at it if you toss a little more detail in our direction. It would appear that a little heat in the engine compartment could have corrected the condition or maybe the "Key in the ignition" chime, since it is the same chime that you hear for that, and you said that you started the engine, so the key has been in and out of the ignition lock. This chime is also activated with the headlamp switch in an 'on' position and the driver's door being slightly open. I would have written ajar, but we all know that "no door is a jar". These circuits are all controlled by one of the driver side door switches, this one, which completes the ground circuit. Which one you ask? The black one. OH, Oh, they are both black, I better go and check....... It is the top one in the picture in combination with the courtesy light switch located in the door hinge ares. So, now you have some areas to troubleshoot, good luck.
  14. Hemi Dude

    Heater Core

    Much smarter to remove the seats. You will thank me! This way you will have access to sit on the floor and work. This dash removal was done on a 91 TC to repair fire damage in the center console, however you need to go further and remove the steering column and dash completely in order to access the heater box. To ease your mind (a little) as long as you are patient and DON'T BREAK ANYTHING, you will be able to do it yourself. I have done several over the years at my shop. The bolts and nuts will become obvious as you dig into the job. Begin by disconnecting the battery after you have removed the seats, then discharging and disconnecting the A/C 'H' valve from the evaporator. Much more lyes ahead!