Hemi Dude

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About Hemi Dude

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/17/1939

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  • Biography
    52 years as a Chrysler product mechanic up to Service Manager at several Dealers. 22 years as private repair shop owner and operator for repair of MOPAR products.
  1. Did all models of the TC have an automatic radio antenna? Yes they did.
  2. Well, that's 3 of us offering help. Now we just wait for a response.
  3. Tell us a little more about the car; How many miles on the odometer? How long have you had the milky oil and exhaust smoke? What other engine work have you ever had on this car? Are you at all capable of doing the repair or are you stuck having someone else do it? How long have you known these guys at the shop you reference? I have done plenty of these engines, they are not difficult to repair, IF you just follow simple steps. I'll be glad to guide you through it.
  4. Apparently you currently have a 90 TC with a 3.0L engine which has already had the 41TE transaxle replaced. Is that correct? You say that it needs a valve job and has an oil leak you are unable to locate, Is that correct? No, I am not Trey Gowdy... My recommendation is to have the valve job done on your cylinder heads, being sure to have the exhaust valve guides replaced as well. With the cylinder heads off the engine block, you should more easily be able to locate the oil leak, unless it had been coming from one of the cylinder heads. 107K miles is nothing on a 3.0L, it will be good for another 107K miles unless you have allowed the coolant to deteriorate to plain old rust. By the way, now is a good time to replace all the core plugs in the block as well as having them replaced in the heads. A new water pump, timing belt and the flimsy cross over coolant pipes that pass under the intake manifold should be replaced as well. You have only 2 seals in the block that could leak, absolutely replace the front seal right behind the crankshaft timing belt sprocket. The rear seal would require removal of the recently installed 41TE transaxle, a job that should have been performed while the transaxle swap was being done, something the previous owner undoubtedly neglected. I move to adjourn...
  5. That is precisely what I did on my TC. Did you not insert the 2 pictures of the relays above? However I was making the change from the 3 speed automatic to the 5 speed from that Dodge Daytona. It does not make any difference that yours remains an automatic. The transaxle on your TC is totally Hydro/Mechanical. It is not functionally connected to the computer except for the distance sensor (which is also on the 5 speed) and the neutral safety switch circuit, which you may have to modify. You may find that your engine would start in any gear, so be cautious of that. I did the modification on my TC back in the 1990s, so don't remember all the small details.
  6. I have read a lot of replies here, the fact is that you can use most any SMEC that you can find from an 88 or 89 Turbo 4 cylinder mopar. What the result would be will be different one to the next. The one you specify from the 5 speed Shelby will plug right into your TC as well. I have one in my 89 TC that came from just such a Daytona. If you get to pull the SMEC from the car itself, look to see if the Daytona has a 2 relay setup as pictured above or a 3 relay pack. The additional relay is for EGR which you do NOT have to hook up since your TC does not have EGR, but you need to connect the electrical connector, which IS there on your car, to the relay so the computer can 'see' the relay electrically. Otherwise you will get the 'check engine' light to be on at all times. With the electrical connector connected, you will fool the Daytona computer and it will actually operate the relay though nothing will happen. I hope you understand.
  7. Well, as the guy ( or at least one of the guys ) who promotes the conversion, you would probably think I would be all for it. But, on this car, I would IMMEDIATELY flush the entire brake system using fresh DOT3 brake fluid and then drive the car with the ABS system until something goes wrong and you cannot acquire the parts. Then would be the time to consider the conversion. By the way, that is a beautiful car. Congratulations.
  8. Go to the http://www.allpar.com/model/tc.html website. Then to See our ABS replacement article That information is also at your fingertips in my member information every time I post.
  9. When you say "Plain Jane", what do you mean? Another ABS system or just regular vacuum booster and normal master cylinder? PM me for more information.
  10. You have to know that this could not be correct, unless it is a repaint 200438 1989 Arctic White Ginger SOHC
  11. You guys may or may not be interested, but I don't ever put the outside glass back in place. The inner glass which is adhered to the inside of the roof is sufficient to keep water out and that is all you need.
  12. Try pulling just the fan first. If you still need more room you will have to pull the radiator with the intercooler as they are attached at the top and bottom.
  13. " Drive down the road and the gauge goes from no press to 1/2 gauge." That really sounds like a loose connection in the wiring at or from the sending unit. It could even be up in the dash wiring. I have the same thing on one of my cars, under hard acceleration the gauge drops to 'nothing' then comes back when I back off the throttle. I haven't even wasted my time looking.
  14. Well... I didn't exactly miss it, From above: "Consider of course the timing belt, the water pump, by-pass hose and the crossover tube below the intake manifold and the short extension that extends out to the radiator hose." I know I'm being a little picky (but not really) Anyway, as long as the machine shop does what they need to do, your 3.0L should turn out fine. By the way, do you have any sort of valve lash 'noise' sounding like a bad lifter? If so, check all the hydraulic lash adjusters, they are mounted in the rocker arms and make direct contact with the valves.
  15. There are 2 versions, the earlier built 89 cars had one that looked like a bell from the top and was unpainted metal and was only an oil pressure sender, the later 89 and 90's had one that had a multi wire connector at the top and was a slim black unit, partially made of plastic. Since they both mount at the same place on the engine, under the intake manifold and to the right of the dipstick tube approximately 4 inches from the rear of the engine block where the transaxle bolts to the block. It is at the same location as where the oil tube which supplies oil to the turbo is connected to the engine block. You might try to get to it from underneath the car. That is also how you access the distributor if you need to replace the HALL PLATE.