DonMicheletti

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About DonMicheletti

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    Menlo Park, CA
  1. I can only speak from my own experience. I do my own work and I have never seen prices for parts and machining anywhere near that cost. Anyone with a total rebuild, please speak up on costs. I need to be updated.
  2. I have to disagree with Janousek. Not every engine needs to be completely rebuilt. If a detailed inspection reveals that everything is within specification, then an overhaul like this will be just fine. It also depends on how much the car will be driven. Condition is everything. Also, there is a horrendous difference in the cost of the two types of jobs. On the brake cylinders. I have had experiences on both ends of the scale. When I restored my '38 Roadmaster 35 years ago, I just honed all the cylinders and installed new cups and used silicone fluid. They are syill working just fine. However... When I did my '38 Special I did the same thing and had trouble. I ended up having the cylinders sleeved.
  3. That isnt a terribly powerful engine. Go too low on rear end ratio and it wont pull the hat off your head. $$$ can solve any problem
  4. In these photos you can clearly see that Buick painted both manifolds green. !5 minutes after the engines were started you can bet the exhaust manifold green was toast. There are some funny things though. On my original car, the back of the water pump and the back of the crank pulley were both green - they had to be painted before being installed on the engine.
  5. Holding it in gear with the shift lever will cause the shifting fork to wear exccessively, then creating more problems.
  6. One of the fun things about this kind of photo documentation is that you can "re-live" the fun you had while doing the job. The cars I have restore & worked on have all been original - no rebuilds or restorations. In reality, often we over restore. Many of the details we fret over just were not important to the factory. For instance, the engine on my "38 Roadmaster looked as if the paint had just been thrown at it with runs and nearly bare spots. On my '18, the firewall clearly showed the brush strokes of the hand applied varnish. Things we typically would not tolerate today in a restoration.
  7. There were several factoried and many different workers who installed cotter pins. I'd doubt that there was a "standard practice" back then. Probably just up to the whim of the installer.
  8. On the '38, that rubber washer goes over the "nubbin" on the inside of the threaded nut at the end of the master cylinder bore. I'm surt the spring will bo OK
  9. An "old time" theory is that if you ground the valves on an older, worn engine you might well create an oil burner. Better vacuum?
  10. I have also made brass plugs. Anything to stop the braqke fluid of running out of the front end of the cars brake lines.
  11. One helpful thing you can do is to pinch the brake hose with a pair of vice grips, before you disconnect it, to stop the brake fluid from running out of everything. When I did my clutch I didnt even heve to bleed the brakes when I put it back together. However, i wouldnt do this with an old brake hose.
  12. Here is an engine dolly I built. I aslo ran the engine on it. Makes it easy tor roll around while the rest of the car is being done
  13. Damn, and I just got new glasses!! Yes, SR - 389
  14. It is the bearing retainer spring. Boba Automobilia has it. Their part number SP 389
  15. Larry, That is exactly what mine looked like when finished. Never had any trouble with it.