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About DonMicheletti

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    Menlo Park, CA
  1. The front crank seal is a "rope" type seal similar to a rear main seal and a real bear to change. There is no specific size. The material for several years might fit (I haven changed one of those for years). Bobs Automobilia may have the correct material. Excessive crank main bearing clearance may contribute to the seal leak
  2. This guy is doing a '37 Buick and just posted his tower diassembly. Look around, you'll find it here:
  3. Interesting. I had always wondered how the 4 post regulator was wired, but never curious enough to actually find out. Thanks, now I know.
  4. I can vouch for Carps too. They have done a couple of different cars for me. They were great to work with. (I temember it being spelled Karps). Two things impressed me. They were very prompt in getting the job done. The price for work on a high end make of car was the same as my Buick (as it should be). This is often not the case
  5. On cranking with wide open throttle, just back off as soon as the engine fires. However, no spark makes starting a bit more difficult!!
  6. 27donb OK, but those arent stock. I had assumed that jps's carb is stock.
  7. I dont think the '27 has a accelerator pump, so pumping the throttle before starting does nothing. Along with hard choke, holding the throttle open full might help. That proceedure always worked well for me on '31 and '32 Buicks - the '18 also
  8. When you crank it, do you start the cranking with full choke?
  9. I had an original Buick Model 10 years ago. Yes it is a REMY magneto, but I cant remember the model. It is a strange setup. Used a battery too.
  10. Gary, Thanks for the recognition. it really wasnt necessary, but I appreciate it. One other thing. On reassembly, you have to be careful not to push the shafts to far in or the wiper arm will hit the tower body. This is what you'd get if you didnt remove the chain. You have to be careful because the little pot metal arm attaching to the reach rod is very fragile. Also they are right and left.
  11. Dave, If there were pin holes in the heat riser tube it would run poorly all the time. Plus the tube would probably fail entirely in short order.
  12. Dont trivialize the making of that shaft. The ends and center are not simple knurls. The "knurls" must be perfectly timed or aligned so they match both the position of the arms which go to the steering knuckle and the cam that engages the shock piston. What can be done is to grind, hard chrome and then regrind and polish those bearing surfaces. Definitely not a backyard project.
  13. I have always liked to do rebuilds of parts myself. But there are some things that cant be done at home. The front shocks can be in that category. Here is a photo of the shock pivot shaft from a parts car. You can see the shaft is both pitted and worn at the seal area. Virtually impossible to repair at home.
  14. I had an older friend who owned a Volkswagen, Audi & Porsche dealership. Earlier on he was a Chrysler dealer. He told me "I was ashamed to sell those cars because I knew that the door handles would fall off before they got home with them". He also told me he could not sell a Chrysler against Buick.
  15. On the '37's, is there also a ground strap between the frame and engine block somewhere? Since the engine is on 4 rubber pads it might be isolated from the frame. '38's grounds go right to the block since the battery is right against the engine