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About DonMicheletti

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    Menlo Park, CA
  1. Be sure you have enough weight on the chassis to control the extension of the springs so that when you remove the bolts, the springs do not still have enough stored energy to lift the chassis away in an uncontrolable fashion. I hope that is clear enough. It can get dangerous quickly.
  2. The Special carb has only 3 bolts
  3. The old Torque Tube magazines have a wealth of information on '38's. Check Frank Fredas index for subject and then go to issue.
  4. I coldnt find my drawing, but there is an article here from the old Torque Tube that covers the issue. XIV Number 2 (November-December 1995) (From Dug Waggoner’s collection).pdf
  5. I have successfully used a chunk of used tire sidewall. However any tough thin belt like material will work. I can attach a sketch of the part tomorrow. It is easy to make
  6. I am with BillP completely with the adder that the sidemmounts are in the way when you have to do engine maintenance.
  7. Carb king is right, save it. However having a choke and start system that works is really nice, unlike the Rube Goldberg stock system. I do have the stock system on my 38's though
  8. Actually there are "numders matching" cars. But certainly not Buicks. An example is old Ferraris. Everything has the serial number on it including stuff like bumpers. Matching numbars means everything when it comres to value.
  9. After drilling odd the riveted end and getting the knob out, I have drilled and tapped the steel pin and used a washer and flat head allen screw to reattach them - if the plastic is still good
  10. Richmond, If you go to the old Torque Tube index here, by Frank Freda: There are many articles about headlight and reflector repair. The index shows articles by subject and then you can open the specific issue. It is also a tremendous resource on many other issues with the 37's and 38's
  11. Performance wise, the Buick is a hands down winner. Test drive them both. Yes, I have driven both.
  12. One of the real tough to seal areas of these transmissions is around the countershaft where it comes through the case. There is no provision for sealing at all. I have had reasonable success by using a Permetex product (I forget which). Clean the shaft and bore really well and do not prelube any of the parts before assembly. Once assembled. Work the shaft back and forth with the sealant in the bores before the bores before locking the countershaft in place. Filling the trans with oil will take care of getting everything properly lubed. Other solutions?
  13. Wait! I am a mechanical engineer and I NEVER think of things like that in the shower. That is WAY overthinking the issue. All I can say, is the bending of pushrods is a fact.
  14. One problem with higher pressure valve springs is the additional force on the push rods. A friend with a '19 Buick went to modern valve springs and the additional force caused him to bend push rods
  15. I can only speak from my own experience. I do my own work and I have never seen prices for parts and machining anywhere near that cost. Anyone with a total rebuild, please speak up on costs. I need to be updated.