ice man

It is stored somewhere, I just don't know where? In the car makes too much sense!!!

Thanks EmTee for the input. I do have a '90 service manual back in Florida somewhere, but I can't seem to lay my hands on it. I looked for it last winter when this problem started but can't figure out where the hell I put it. I've yanked the ECM and all the relays from my parts car to take back to Florida. I think I may remove and take both fans with me too, as there no use for me here in NY.

Karl: Your description very much mimics the problem I experienced, only my coolant temp was pegging the gauge when standing at a light. After moving again, the temp did come down some and I made it home without being stranded. I opened the hood and as the temperature increased, the fan on the drivers side was again on low speed. As I mentioned in my first post, I swapped the relay from the horn to the fan that wasn't running at high speed and the fan ran on high. The horn also worked after the swap, so I'm thinking the problem is with one of the other relays. I'm pulling all the relays from my parts car and even the ECM and taking them back to Florida with me. Can anyone else recommend parts I should take just in case the relays don't do the trick? It may be some time but I'll post an update as to how I make out. Thanks to all who posted and helped me understand these cars that are smarter than me.

My '90 Reatta coupe began overheating when the AC was on. I checked the fans and the one on the drivers side seemed to be only running on low speed when coolant was above normal. At first I thought it was the fan relay, so I switched the horn and fan relays and the fan went to high speed and the horn blew?? Now it appears that when the AC is on the fan goes to low speed. Does this make any sense as to what could be wrong? The car is in Florida and I'm in the Buffalo NY area now but leaving soon. I have an '89 parts car here and could take parts down if I knew what may be the problem and what to take. I almost gave Paggett a call last winter while there to get his input, but that's no longer an option. Any ideas on the problem ?

That doesn't help much. My cover doesn't have that rectangular notch, it has a small pointed protrusion at the 6 & 12 positions. The rear end is a 10 bolt 8.5, not 8.2.

look above. Here you go, this is the best I can do, but not done by me. I hope this helps someone ID this thing. Tom G

I took several pictures of my differential with my I-phone and thought maybe there was an easier way to post pictures up here thru my phone. Well, can anyone tell me why I can sign in on my computer to post but when I try to sign in from my phone I can't, using the same username and password?? Tom G

John, no C-clips on Buicks is a step in the right direction. Pictures would help if I knew how to do it. The cover is scalloped at the 3 and 9 o-clock positions which from what I've read, indicates an 8.2. My housing indicates an 8.5 because of those extra square chunks in the casting at the 5 and 7 o-clock positions. I assume then that an 8.2 cover can bolt to an 8.5 differential?? I'll work on pictures but thanks so far. Tom G

Brad: Posi was available in '67 but not for the GS-340. As far as pictures, I'm lucky to have gotten the write-up posted " OLD SCHOOL" It's definitely a 10 bolt for sure, just don't know out of what. When I measured between the backing plates I came up with 55-1/4 inches. Maybe I'm reading too much into this but it would be nice to know if it's Buick, Pontiac, Olds, Chevy or GMC small truck as some trucks had coil springs.

I purchased a second GS-340 many years ago but never paid a lot of attention to things underneath. Now, I have noticed it's a limited slip rear end. After checking my option chart for '67 , limited slip was not an option for those vehicles. Now I'm wondering what was installed in place of the original? Here is what I've determined so far. First off, I've cleaned the entire right axle tube to try to find any readable code numbers and have found nothing. If there were, they got destroyed by jack stands. The cast body has 10 bolts and the 2 larger chunks at 5 &7 indicating it's an 8.5". The cover is oval with the large scalloped recesses at 9 and 3, which was used on 8.2's. The cover also has small arrow protrusions outward at 6and 12 and the bottom bolts are 3" on center. On the casting is the cast clock (indicating 1 and pointer at 6) followed by 35. Further down the case is #1235187 or maybe the 8 is a 9. Continuing around the bottom going up is CFO or O is a D. There is also three big 1" A's. One on top and one by each axle tube. Axle tubes are 3" dia. Pinion nut is 1-1/4", Ring gear has # 2344746--41-16 GMC W and held on with 10 hex bolts. I didn't count teeth or measure ring gear. I just would like to know what the hell vehicle this rear came out of. Any info you folks can supply would be much appreciated. Oh, it also has what looks like original coil spring perches. Thanks

For what it's worth this is what I did when mine broke. A 5/16" cage nut fits perfectly into the square hole in the steel cowl. I then took a 5/16" stove bolt that had a wide but shallow head and used my cutoff wheel to grind a wider slot in the head. Using the old plastic wing nut as a pattern, I traced the wing design on a scrap piece of steel the same thickness as the plastic wing and ground it down to resemble the plastic wing. From there it's just a matter of soldering the wing into the slot of the stove bolt and painting them black. Now, instead of just a 1/4 turn to lock it down, it screws into the cage nut until tight. No more worry about plastic breaking and wings being lost. Once installed you can't tell it from the original.

Thanks guy's, I'll try using the relay off my spare antenna and see if that solves the problem. Sure beats R&R the complete antenna.

I have an issue with the antenna on my wife's '90 coupe. Turn radio on antenna goes up, turn off and antenna may go down but usually stays up for a time then goes down when it feels like it. When we first owned the car if the antenna stayed up I could wiggled the wiring connector and it would go down. Now no matter how much I giggle the wiring nothing happens. The last time we used the Reatta, no matter what I did the antenna would not go down. Sometime during the night it decided to operate and when I went in the garage the next day it was down. I have a replacement antenna but didn't want to go thru the trouble of switching it out if there might be a simple fix or maybe what might be going wrong. I did notice that while attempting to get it to go down this last time the antenna felt quite warm near the wiring connections. Any Ideas??? Tom

I don't know Paul, but being a BCA member my thoughts and prayers go out to Paul and his family for a speedy recovery. Tom G. Niagara Frontier Chapter, BCA