• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


carbking last won the day on December 15 2016

carbking had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

379 Excellent


About carbking

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/12/1946

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ditto DualQuadDave's comments. If you are CONVINCED you have to go to a single quad: (A) There is no shiny brand new carburetor available THAT CAN BE MADE TO PERFORM, let alone as delivered out of the box, as well as rebuilding an ORIGINAL Carter single AFB for the Buick engine. The one you listed will require: primary jets, secondary jets, primary clusters, secondary clusters, different step-up rods, different vacuum piston springs and especially a different auxiliary air valve to come close to performing as well as an original. If you really want to use the carb you suggested, it will work well (as least for a little while) if you change out the drivetrain to a Chevy 454! (B) Electric chokes are best used on cars with manual transmissions (or for those enthusiasts that reside in Honolulu, San Diego, or Miami). VERY unreliable when used in colder climates on vehicles with older automatic transmissions. If you MUST, then tell your Dad to start the car, go back in the house and drink three to four cups of coffee to allow to engine to FULLY warm AND get him a subscription to triple A! Start it up, try to drive it, and it will stall at the stop light 3 blocks from the house, and it WILL NOT RESTART FOR ABOUT AN HOUR! Jon.
  2. carbking

    RTS 5215

    Fuel glass bowls should use either a cork (recommended) gasket or a rubber gasket (not as good as cork). Possible to crack the glass if using a paper gasket. You can acquire cork (probably 1/16 inch is sufficient) at the local parts house. Cut your own gasket. Borrow your wife's fingernail scissors to cut curves in the material. Jon.
  3. When the engine is cold, the choke should activate the fast idle circuit on the carburetor, causing a faster than normal idle. The higher RPM cold may be masking issues with rings or valves. If the hot and cold idle RPM's are quite different, I believe a compression test is in order. If the hot and cold idle RPM's are the same, I have no suggestions. Jon.
  4. carbking


    In later years, when both vacuum and mechanical linkage was available, the return springs on the end carbs with mechanical linkage are MUCH lighter in tension than those for the vacuum linkage. The springs for the vacuum linkage are STIFF, and should be. If correctly functioning, the vacuum motor will jerk the end carbs open when the vacuum is applied from the vacuum canister. Jon.
  5. carbking

    1965 Riviera 401 Carb Question

    I don't believe the Demons will fit the manifold; however, If I am wrong about that, the air cleaner will not fit, the fuel lines will need fabrication, the linkage will have to be fabricated, and you will probably need to fabricate a kickdown as well. The calibrations will be completely wrong, so complete recalibration of the Demons will be necessary. And (opinion) even if you are a Demon guru, I doubt very seriously if you can make the Demons runs as well as the original Carters. Plus, (also opinion) if you ever sell the car, you can deduct the cost of acquiring the correct Carters from your selling price, and the universe of potential buyers will probably be halved. Jon.
  6. carbking

    1928 windshield visor

    Original thread size 1/2 x 32. Jon.
  7. carbking

    Updraft Stromberg SF-3 or 4 Carburetor wanted

    Alan - this link will explain the bore or "throat" size, and also the internal venturi sizes: Note that some SF-4's do have accelerator pumps, others do not. The numbers from your tag don't seem to show up in the Stromberg literature. The best way to get a feeling for if a specific carburetor has or doesn't have an accelerator pump, is to look for the presence of the pump adjustment screw. Go back to the link, and scroll down to the pictured SF-4 carburetor. In the upper left corner of the picture is a long vertical 10x24 fillister headed screw. This screw is the pump adjustment screw. By varying the depth (adjustment) on this screw, one can vary the length of the pump stroke, thus saving gasoline????? The carbs without an accelerator pump will not have the screw, rather just a short headless brass plug in the machined hole. And the variable aspect, using your words, is in the internal venturi size. The physical size (SF-4) is the external size. The venturi size determines airflow. And the jetting is selected to correspond to the airflow. Jon.
  8. carbking

    Carburetor: WCFB 2197S idle problems

    Some of the early WCFB carbs had some weird secondary lockout linkage, that if not adjusted absolutely perfectly, can cause your issue. This included the linkage from the choke to the lockout. Do not remember if the Buick carbs used it, but Cadillac did. I have spent hours adjusting on some of the Caddy WCFB's to get them to function correctly. Worth a look. Jon.
  9. carbking

    Updraft Stromberg SF-3 or 4 Carburetor wanted

    Al - the SF-3 has 1 5/8 bore; while the SF-4 has a bore of 1 15/16. Jon.
  10. carbking

    1941 Limited Limousine

    Matt - you might check this link: Jon.
  11. carbking

    Tillotson carb questions (29 Chev)

    Congratulations. You have found an un-recycled Rayfield model HC. Produced by the Marvel/Schebler division of Borg-Warner. Sold with a water decal stuck on the end of the bowl with the "name du jour" (Wizard, Rayfield, Johnson, M/S, etc.). It could have been purchased through Western Auto, J.C. Whitney, Warshawski, etc. Jon.
  12. carbking

    25 Buick fuel problems

    1 psi I can easily believe; really had an issue believing 3. I think you have now found your problem. I brought up the oscilloscope because of the 3 psi. I inferred from your post that the carb would stand 3. Wasn't convinced, but also didn't wish to argue. So the next logical place was voltage. I am a firm believer in testing. There are some incredibly knowledgeable helpful folks here that will try to help; but all of us are trying to "diagnose an upset stomach by telephone!". The more testing information which is provided helps reduce the number of possibilities. Happy that you found the regulator issue. Enjoy that Buick! Jon.
  13. carbking

    25 Buick fuel problems

    There are several items to consider concerning the amount of fuel pressure the carburetor will handle: (1) Orifice of the fuel valve seat (2) Effective pressure exerted by the float (2A) Buoyancy of the float (material, and fuel volume displaced) (2B) Mechanical advantage of the float (position of float arm, and type of float fulcrum). While we have brass floats available for the early Marvels, the brass float does virtually nothing for buoyance (maybe a few percent). The brass float does have much better reliability than the original cork or the modern polynitraphyll (sp) closed cellular foam. Since the fulcrum position and style are unchanged, the float will exert only marginally more pressure. Even if you are using the brass float, and have significantly reduced the fuel orifice; being from Missouri, I would have to be shown that this carburetor is capable of 3 psi, because of the fulcrum design and placement. However, not certain this is all of your problem. As mentioned by others in this thread, ignition systems are less reliable than carburetors (even Marvel carburetors ) Generally, a carburetor has very little personality. It will behave the same under similar conditions. The fact that the engine will idle, sometimes run, and then act weird to me indicates ignition issues. If the ignition is insufficient to fire the available fuel, then the plugs will be sooty just as if the carburetor was malfunctioning. Unsure what tools you may have available to you. Readings from a clamp-on volt-meter on the plug wires when the engine is behaving, compared to when it is misbehaving would be interesting. But just because some of us feel your coil may be suspect is not a REASON to change it! Ignition systems CAN be tested. Find a local friend or shop with an older Sun or Allen diagnostic oscilloscope (and knows how to use it) to hook up to the engine. Jon
  14. Generally, this condition is caused by the pump discharge valve being stuck. If the valve is closed, the gas has to go somewhere, and it bypasses the pump skirt, shooting up alongside the pump. A clogged discharge passage would cause the same condition. Jon.
  15. carbking

    49 Roadmaster Won't Start Without Starting Fluid

    Will the car restart immediately after shutting it off? 3-month old (or older) fuel could be the culprit, however: VERY IMPORTANT to have started the engine prior to doing the accelerator pump test. For the record, if I had a dollar for every "faulty" accelerator pump that has been unnecessarily replaced in the last 20 years alone, I could probably pay off the National Debt and be a hero. As far as the use of starting fluid is concerned: I don't KNOW, but personally I like it and have used it on everything from weedeaters to large tractors for almost 60 years with ZERO issues. NOT a recommendation to others, simply a statement of personal use. Incidentally, one of the vehicles on which I used it was traded after 440,000 miles (body had rusted for the third time due to Missouri salt and cinders - thanks MoDot) and the cylinder head had never been removed from the engine, which still ran well. Jon.