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About scott12180

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  1. Mitchell Overdrive

    Please tell us how you want to install it ... and why Mitchell doesn't like it.
  2. Preparing Cylinder head for Gasket

    I rebuilt a 1926 Packard straight eight years ago and did have the head surfaced before assembly. But I had a terrible time getting a good seal. Went through three headgaskets if I recall right. Anyway a friend who rebuilds professionally said that it is tough to get a good seal on long engines like that Packard. He recommended Hylomar spray as a gasket sealer. Worked great and I always use it on everything. --Scott
  3. Valve clearance on Lhead straight eights

    I gave the car a good run to get it hot then checked the clearances with the engine running. The exhaust valves which I set to 0.004 cold were now generally about 0.004 or 0.003. Intake valves which were also set to 0.004 cold were 0.007, 0.008 and 0.009 hot. So the exhaust valves got a tiny bit longer hot --- clearances smaller--- but the intake valves got alot shorter when hot --- clearances bigger. Any ideas?
  4. Valve clearance on Lhead straight eights

    I'd still appreciate any other ideas for what's going on, but this afternoon I set all valves to 0.004 COLD. I'll give it a good run and then check them hot. See where they are. If this is true then they ought to be more than 0.004.
  5. I've always been under the impression that as the engine gets hot, valve clearances would decrease. I've a lot of experience with Franklins where you set valves cold, but admittedly never measured clearances both hot and cold. On my 32 Packard standard eight, I've been setting the valves to factory spec 0.004 with the engine hot and running. No easy job. With the engine stone stone cold this morning I see that all intake valves have essentially zero clearance and exhaust valves are 0.001 or 0.002. In other words clearances get bigger when the engine is hot. Is is this the way it's supposed to be on L head straight eights? If so then shouldn't valves be set when the engine is cold? --Scott 32 Packard 902 5-p Coupe
  6. Remove tree sap from lacquer paint

    I discovered that I must have parked under a messy tree a couple of months ago. My paint is hazed with billions of tiny misty droplets that I can't get off. Many suggestions for removing baked on treesap from a lacquer painted car?
  7. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Could someone post the article or post the details of this test which resulted in more than 75% failure on AC spark plugs? I'm not a club member as I don't own a Cadillac-LaSalle, but I am very interested in how the test was done and which spark plugs were effected. I think we all could benefit from these results. Thanks
  8. Spark Plugs for 1932 Std Eight

    Curious what guys are using in their early 1930's Standard Eights for spark plugs. These are 14 mm and originally AC-K9, K10, K12, etc. This would cross into about AC-45, 46, 48 or so for various heat ranges for NOS plugs from the 1940's and 50's. But it's been pointed out that many of these NOS plugs have high failure rates due to manufacturing problems sealing porcelain at the time. So I'd like to know what you are running now, either older NOS plugs or modern off-the-shelf plugs. Name brand and model ( heat range). I have Prestolite 147 but they are too cold for me. Looking for something else. Thanks -- Scott
  9. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Interesting. . . . " X stands for special or wide gap." So on an AC 48X, the electrode gap is wider than on a 48? If that's so, couldn't you just make the gap whatever width you wanted it to be? Why the special designation? Also, anyone hear of a Prestolite spark plug? What's in the Packard now are Prestolite 147's. I'd like to find out what heat range they are because they appear to be too cold. The only cross reference I can find is on which suggests they are about like an AC 45. If that's true, then I do want a hotter plug, like AC 47 or 48.
  10. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Does anyone know in the AC sparkplug nomenclature, what an "X" suffix means? What's the difference between an AC 48 and 48X? or AC 46 and 46X? I haven't found any explanation, yet. --Scott
  11. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    With your suggestions, I've discovered these cross reference charts. None of them cross the old AC nomenclature (K9, K12) to the new (46, 47, 48) but they might be useful for other brands.
  12. Packard service literature in the early 1930's recommends AC spark plugs--- type K9, K10 or K12 for my 1932, depending on the heat range. I've yet to find a list of what the modern designation for these plugs would be. These are 14 mm plugs but what's important is the heat range --- K9 is cooler, K12 is hotter --- and especially the reach into the cylinder. I'd like some NOS plugs. Nothing much on eBay. . . . Any suggestions? --Scott
  13. New Detroit Lubricator Carburetors

    Has anyone here bought a new Detroit Lubricator from, the fellow who makes these updraft carburetors in Post Falls, Idaho? I'm wondering if you were pleased, did the carburetor perform well right out of the box or did you need to do a lot of adjustment. . . . Does it make your car run great? I'm more interested in a well running engine than a showpiece, but it would be nice to have the correct carburetor for my 902. Thanks for your comments. Feel free to send me a private message if you'd rather. --Scott
  14. Spark knock in a 32 Packard ??

    Spark Knock problem appears to be solved. I replaced the advance springs on the distributor with some stiffer springs which I had --- one of the original springs looked so weak that it wasn't even in tension when fully advanced. That alone made the car run so much better and no pinging. The advance is now set at 9 degrees on the flywheel, exactly what is recommended. Thanks to Paul "PFitz" for the suggestion and hence reminding me that I had this similar problem 30 years ago on a Franklin. Now to do something about the carburetor. The engine is running so nicely right now that it's hard to believe that the Zenith marine carburetor is doing harm. Sort of like how you might feel great when you drink scotch and smoke cigars. Thanks to everyone who offered a suggestion. This was a good learning experience.
  15. Zenith carburetor adjustment

    The carburetor on the car is Zenith 10870B. The spare shown in the photo is 11583D. I can't find a chart explaining exactly what these are, but a Google search suggests that they both are Marine. Some road testing today where, suspecting the carb is running rich, I closed the main jet screw half turn at a time to assess running. It seemed to get better and better but then I noticed that the main jet was fully closed ! The car still ran great, which puzzles me (how can it run with the main jet closed???) , but on a short steep hill, it lost a lot of power presumably being too lean. So is Paul "PFitz" correct that I should run it rich on the flat so it is compromised to be OK on the hills? It was one and one half turns open. BTW, if you do have a marine carb, there likely is no power enrichment circuit like a car needs. The lack of such a circuit will make it lean out on hills. This was a problem with the marine/stationary engine carbs that were showing up as replacements for the potmetal carbs of the late 1920's. They run ok at idle and on level roads, but with no way to properly enrich the mixture proportional to engine load, such as hill climbing, they go too lean. So, typically, the owner's opened up the main jet to "compromise" for hills and then the carb is running too rich when not under load. Sound familiar ? --PFitz I still don't understand how the carburetor can run well with the main jet fully closed. Iagree with Ed that I'd prefer to run a proper Detroit Lubricator but the reproduction ones are $3500, if they are even available. That's a bitter pill to swallow right now. Any suggestions for alternative sources? Or other automotive carburetors I could try out?