hursst

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About hursst

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/19/1972

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Woodbridge, VA

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  1. 1960 MGA Restoration

    My Clogmaster is clogging at the bottom T. The gun I have works great. I don't have many more huge parts, so I'll probably just live with it for now. I am using Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin Finish from a spray can. It seems to be the closest to what the factory did, and it looks good and should be durable. I considered powder coating, but I am more concerned with lowering my expenses and doing as much of the car as I can myself. Thanks jp928. I've been trying to cheap out, as my last restoration, I farmed out more of it, and it cost me a fortune. Lots of rip-off artists out there, so I figure I will attempt to do almost everything myself. As far as the rear brake shoes, I had them relined by White Post Restorations, but I'm not sure if they were radiused. I've had them do shoes on my other cars and never had a problem, so I'm not concerned with it.
  2. 1960 MGA Restoration

    It's sieved twice when I recycle it, but you're probably right, there are some pieces that get in that are larger than the fine media.
  3. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Worst winter ever. Spring should be starting here tomorrow, but hasn't stopped my from working on the MGA in the mean time. Started working on the ancillary chassis parts such as the wiring harness, rest of the brake pipes, the battery wire, the chassis extensions, and all the clips and hardware. Here's the brake pipe switch and proportioner before restoring the pieces (Photo 3). Nice to work on the brass brake fittings. Here's most of the finished product, going on the car (Photo 5). I found an original oil pump on English ebay, bought it, then restored it (Photo 4). It's not quite the original color, but as close as I could get. I then used it to oil my steering rack, which was its original intent. I'm going to replace all the wiring, as the originals are quite torn up. Lining up the old with the new to ensure everything is right and that I can line up the clips (Photo 6). I blasted the front extension pieces, so here's before and after (Photos 1 & 2). Took a long time with the clogmaster 2000 sandblaster. I did buy some new media and that helped it quite a bit. Too much moisture I guess in the older, recycled stuff I sweep up later. Still beats paying someone else to do it. Refinished the spare tire hold down (Photo 7). Here's the front frame extension more or less on the car (Photo 8). Also installed new front brake hoses. Was able to salvage the original hardware, but had to replace the hoses. Was also able to clip off the original yellow tags and put them on the new hoses to make them look more original (Photo 9). I still have a lot of hardware to finish, like the front bumper mounting hardware, plus some more of the battery cable/wiring harness clips. I've started to search out engine and transmission shops, as that will be next, before I do the body. I think both need professional attention, although I've been restoring the outside engine attachments as I go. Should have the engine and/or trans to a shop in about 2 months, I think.
  4. 1952 MG TD

    Jeff, Great video on the trans. Maybe I will try to work on my own trans, I had originally thought it above my skill level and I should farm it out. I'd love to be able to do it myself, maybe your videos will encourage me to give it a try. -Chris
  5. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Quick update for today. Basic rolling chassis is complete. Next phase is to complete the full chassis, which means frame extension, the rest of the fuel and brake pipes, wiring harness, floorboards, horn, and other misc items. Will probably shuffle things around in the garage and start on the body, then maybe get the engine out for review and rebuilding about 1/2 way through the body work. Hard to get any painting done, as weather is still freezing with highs only around 50 at best each day. Global warming is taking 2018 off, evidently. -Chris
  6. 1961 Mercury Meteor 800 restore

    Welcome back, looking forward to more updates.
  7. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Well, we got about 2" of snow here in the northern VA area, which can only mean one thing...TOTAL PANIC AND COWARDICE. Which means I didn't have to work today. Headed off to the garage to catch up on the MGA. I got a whole lot accomplished today, and did some this last weekend as well, but nothing is ever as easy as it seems, so everything took me extra time with a few mistakes throughout. Started with the front hubs by knocking out the wheel bearings (Photo 1). These were the original bearings and were in excellent condition, but I wouldn't feel comfortable reusing them, not having known what they've been through. I will save them as backups just in case. Here are the new bearings I got from Moss (Photo 2). Here's one of the new rotors with one old one and old old hub unit (Photo 3). The original rotors were heavily pitted and beyond saving. I cleared up the hubs and they turned out fairly clean (Photo 4). Here are the new bearings, all lined up and ready to go in (Photo 5). Also cleaned up all the hardware for the hub assemblies, on the right (Photo 6). I will usually zinc plate hardware that is in good condition with no pitting, but I will prime and paint hardware that has a little pitting, as the zinc won't stick to the pits and they start rusting with just a little humidity. Once I install them, I usually touch them up, as torquing them down usually chips the paint. Back to the crepe myrtle for painting part of the hubs (Photo 7). I rust encapsulated them, primed, and painted, to keep them relatively clean and protected, rather than leaving them bare steel. Of course, left the threads natural. Here's a finished hub, ready to be bolted back together (Photo 8). I threw the finished assemblies back on the car (Photo 9), but of course there many more steps, putting in the washer and castle nut, torquing to spec, then feeding a cotter pin through a small hole in the hub, then through the castle nut, securing the cotter pin, then putting in the grease seal that covers up the hole from the inside (Photo 10, hardware). I had some challenges in that the passenger side hub was about 1 mm short of where it should have been in terms of being pressed onto the spindle assembly, so I had to take the cotter pin out again, which took my about 50 minutes. Leaving it where it was resulted in the brake calipers and pad rubbing against the outside of the rotor, locking up the rotor from spinning. Getting these out is almost impossible. I did get it out, re-torqued the hub, replaced the cotter pin, and everything was fine. I continued on and put the front Lockheed brake calipers on as well (Photo 11 & 12). On Sunday, I was also able to loosely install the front and rear fuel lines as well as the front to rear brake line. Next, I have to buy new brake hoses for the front, probably before I put the wheels on. The chassis is really starting to come together, but I still have much more to do before the chassis is complete. -Chris
  8. For sale is an original glass 1941 Plymouth Tail Light, part #CB-7528. Lens is in very good condition. Also has "BUK 2" in the middle of the lens. Very small chip on outer edge of glass, but would be covered up by the metal lens bezel. $1 + shipping. PM if interested.
  9. For sale is a 1960 Chrysler, DeSoto Window Crank. Overall good condition. Part number on it is 19007. Chrome is pitted; good for driver quality or for re-chrome for show quality. Also comes with original retainer clip and plastic escutcheon. Hard to find part. $10/OBO + shipping. PM if interested.
  10. For sale is a lug wrench from the 1930's. Size is 13/16". When I bought it a few years ago, I was told it was from an early 1930's Dodge truck, but who knows for sure. It didn't fit my car, so it's up for sale. Nice original condition. Nice piece to add to a vintage tool kit. $25/OBO, +shipping. PM if interested.
  11. For sale is a 1939 Plymouth Passenger Side Window Regulator. Item is used but is in good working condition. I don't know the part number or exactly which door or style this fits, as I am saving this from another guy's scrap heap. Claimed to be 1939 Plymouth, but the style is slightly different than the other regulators I've seen listed on ebay that I can find. Cue me in on a part number or better identification if you know it. Asking $20/OBO + shipping. PM me if interested.
  12. For sale is a 1939 Plymouth Driver's side window regulator. I was told from a guy who was going to throw these out that this was for a 1939 Plymouth, but I'm not sure as it's slightly different than others I've seen listed on ebay, for example. If anyone knows the exact application, I'd appreciate that, too. $20/OBO + shipping. PM me if interested.
  13. For sale is a 1939-1940 Plymouth/Dodge Starter Motor. MOPAR part number is 691717, while part number on tag is MZ-4062. Starter was restored by a local electrical specialist. New actuator unit on top. Everything cleaned up and painted, except for original tag. Works great. Will offer a 30-day warranty from date of receipt. Asking $300 or best offer +shipping. I may be able to deliver if you're near the Washington D.C. area. PM me if interested.
  14. 1960 MGA Restoration

    Small update for today. Got a few things done over the weekend and during a few minutes after work, but overall light progress. Would have had more photos, but camera batteries died. Was able to complete and install the steering rack (Photo 1). I have the steering shaft in steel gray, but the restoration book says black. I've seen others in "natural" finish as well, but will do some more research and figure out what is correct. I'm guessing it should be black, like the book says. Since this photo, I put on the restored clamps for the rubber dust shields on each end, and I have cleaned up the locking nuts and attached the new tie rods to the ends and then to the steering links attached to the spindle. I found an original grease gun for the tool kit in England, and it's being shipped now, so I'll pump up the steering rack with the proper grease using the proper grease gun. I'll then restore the grease gun and add it to the tool kit I'm trying to put together. It will be too cold to paint for a while, so now working on the front hubs. Will be taking out the old bearings and replacing them, then replacing the front brake rotors with new. Restored brake calipers are ready to go on next, so hope to have this thing on two front wheels by Sunday evening, but we'll see.
  15. Everyone's still looking and eagerly awaiting more posts.