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Was able to get the engine out without removing the steering box by removing the trans, clutch, and flywheel. Thanks again for all the help!

Still more odds and ends to tend to before the car gets shipped to the British car shop. Installed the windshield wipers (Photo 1). I may end up taking these off again, because who knows if the wipers will work properly and in which position they will start in. I wouldn't want them to grind into the cowl panel. Next, I lowered the car off the jack stands and torqued and cotter-pinned all the suspension bolts. I'll have the Shop do another check to makes sure I didn't miss anything, although they will need to torque the steering ends, as the ball joints just spin in place and I don't have the proper tools to prevent that. In the "attention to detail" section, I reproduced the mint green blotch of paint that I found on the rear axle when I originally disassembled and cleaned it. Looks white in the photo, but it's actually minty fresh (Photo 2). Some more progress on the home-made door pockets. First, I completed the vertical portion of both pockets (Photo 3). I'm currently working on the U-shaped pockets themselves from a piece of card stock that seems to match the original almost exactly (Photo 4). I had to cut out the cardboard, bend all sides so they can be fastened to the vertical pieces, then glue on the vinyl. I couldn't do it all at once, as the pocket sides need to be bent at 90 degrees, so had to do the center first, then each 90 angle had to be clamped in, in order to get the glue to set on the card stock properly and the correct angle. Still a lot of work to do, as these will need small holes drilled/punched in order to fasten them to the vertical piece using split tacks, as original. I'll then need to piece together the chrome washers and screws that attach the whole works to the doors. The driver's side will be easy, as that door is original and all holes in the door are already there. With the passenger door being as NOS door, there are no holes for the door pockets and door card, so I'll have to mark them as a mirror image of the driver's door. Should be pretty easy, as it doesn't have to be perfectly lined up, just very close, so I can simply punch holes thru the door cards to insert the mounting screws. I think it will cost around $9 to make them myself; if I bought them, it would either be in a $500 kit, or I would have to find individual ones that would probably be around $200 for a set. Not bad when your labor costs $0/hr.

Marketplace - 1926 Studebaker light 6 | Facebook

Thanks for all the great tips. I'm going to attempt leaving the wheel and steering box on at this point. It may be easier for me to remove the transmission, clutch, and flywheel, and leave the burdensome bellhousing in place on the chassis so I don't have to remove the burdensome steering wheel and steering box. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to reapproach the steering wheel removal anyway, where I'll have to use some of your great tips and tricks.

Working on the odds and ends now. Installed the front interior trim in front of the door. Also found the original cable clutch nut and bolt for the "Demister" cable. Cleaned that up and installed it. Last, started making my own door pockets (Photo 1). I found the perfect outer card material, but had to use a thicker backing material, which is almost twice as thick as original, but there' no other material available. Should turn out just fine. For now, using the original I have to cut out the backing panel, cut out the new vinyl, and cut out the pocket card material itself. Also stopped by my British Car shop to give them a heads up. I'll meet with them again in two weeks and I will schedule having the car towed into their shop then for initial startup and a thorough shakedown.

TAKerry, thanks for the offer. I just need the door pockets, not the door cards themselves. Luckily, I have that one original, so it looks like I already have good backing material, I just need some of that lighter cardboard for the actual pocket itself, which yes, I think I can get at any craft store.

Big progress today. First, installed the lower rocker trim on both sides (Photo 1). Next, had to friends over and they were able to help me get the windshield installed (Photo 2). Took about four tries as the two repro gaskets on each sound of the mount were a little too thick. Ended up using only two gaskets and a few layers of painters tape in order to get it to fit and seat properly. Had a few problems with some of the original fasteners on the sides of the windshield. Two of the screws were stripped, so I'll have to figure out some replacements. Last, I installed the two grab handles on the windshield post (Photo 3). Next will be to install the wipers and wiper arms and the front interior trim panels, now that the windshield is installed. Will probably hold off on the door pockets to see if I can get some at the Carlisle import show in May, as I'm not going to buy the $600 kit. If I have some extra time (unlikely), I may just make them myself, as I have the vinyl. I would just need the card backing, which I could probably get at a craft store. I still have one original door pocket to use as a template.

Thanks. Do you have a better idea on the location for the place on Rt 147? I'm not familiar with that place.

Hello, I'm trying to remove my engine on my 1930 Plymouth 30U to get it rebuilt. In order to do this, the steering column must be removed. In order to do that, the steering wheel must be pulled, so the steering column and steering box can be removed thru the firewall. Attached is a photo of the steering wheel after the clum switches have been removed. I've since drilled two holes in the steering wheel metal in order to install a steering wheel puller. I tried using this, and the steering wheel won't budge. At a certain amount of torque, the threaded part of the puller will start to move off of the center threaded portion of the steering wheel. I don't know what to do now, the steering wheel will not budge. Does anyone know a secret to this, is there something I'm missing here? It feels like it's welded on, no motion whatsoever. Thanks for any help or tips. -Chris

Thanks again for the advice. I have a limited budget, but may have to just buy new and maybe finance it.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll keep my ear to the rail for good used ones, but I think I'll have to at least price out new ones in the meantime. I'll try racingjunk.com., too.

Thanks, all told, turning out quite nicely, especially compared with the pile of trash I started with.

Thanks for the replies, but I'm getting mixed messages here. Some folks say I need to remove the steering box, some say I don't. Can someone clarify this? When I remove the engine, do I just unbolt it from the bell housing, or do I need to remove the bell housing with it, which includes the two large legs that go to the frame that hold the starter and brake master cylinder, which means I would definitely have to remove the steering box. Thanks.

Yes, it appears to be all attached. I guess my next question would be, how do I remove the engine, do I just unbolt it from the front of the bell housing if I don't need to remove the steering box/column? Will the flywheel clear the bellhousing when removing the engine? I don't have any experience in really taking this car apart, so I don't know what to expect. Thanks!

I am looking for a project Cushman or Sears/Cushman scooter from about 1946 to 1960. I'm not interested in an Eagle. Looking for something a little rough, missing parts, or even a little junky for a restoration project. Even just a good frame as long as it has a title and can be identified by model...or maybe even without a title. Also needs to be within about 150 miles of Washington, D.C. PM me if you think you may have something for me. -Chris