rjgillespie

Hi Nick, try these guys. product name is Pertronix. Never tried them myself. Only con I can think of with electronic is they work fantastic right up to the point where they die. Then you are stuck.

There was an article in one of the past issues of DB Club news that outlined a procedure for doing exactly what you want (Modern coil, stock appearance) Was thinking about doing it myself but just haven't got to it yet.

I think the extra torque would soon meke mush out of your drivetrain. As long as you are modernizing the engine might as well go all the way. bigger brakes would be a must.Boxing/stiffening the frame would be recommended

No, Not really.I have a reprint of the book of information but that's about it. Interested in top bows etc if you have. My e-mail is rjgillespie@hotmail.com

I could use top irons, bows, and a rear seat if you have one. Where are you located?

Alex, Yes, I would be interested. Also in the back 1/2 of the 25 touring you mentioned in another post. Bob rjgillespie@hotmail.com

Yes, Me too. I need top irons/bows so any info would be greatly appreciated rjgillespie@hotmail.com

Anyone know of a manual that gives instruction on how to disassemble/reassemble a Stewart carb? Getting things apart is never a problem, it's putting them back together that always seems to give me trouble. Thanks in advance Bob

I'm new to the DB scene also (25 touring) I am in Huntington Beach. You can contact me at rjgillespie@hotmail.com if you want to compare notes.

Thanks Martyn, No you did not insult my intelligence. Better said than not said. I appreciate all the advice/help I can get. Bob

E-mail me the particulars on your tank. Pictures if you have them rjgillespie@hotmail.com

Can you seal the inside portions of the tank(s) with a Por-15 Gas tank repair kit? Mine has been repaired at one time (soldered badly) on the bottom outside. The inside shows some deep pits which may be troublesome down the road. i'm in the process of doing the fuel tank so thought might as well do the vacuum tank unless it would interfere with the operation somehow. Any comments, suggestions, or advice would be appreciated.

FMF, Found an article in a back issue of the DB news which might solve the removal problem. It consists of bolting two pieces of plumbers strap together, far enough apart so they can be formed around the cap. Tighten the bolts so you have a tight grip and turn. The soft metal of the strap should give a good bite without marring the surface. Wish I had thought of that or read the article before the pipe wrench. Worth a try

Yeah, Me too. Bought one of those Sears strap wrenches and snapped the strap. Finally, although I don't particularly recommend it, I put a pipe wrench on it. that did the trick. I'll try to take a picture of the assembly so you can see what it looks like.

Vacuum Tank: What is the best way to clean? Can I just soak in a can of carb cleaner or will that destroy something? Carb: same question Gas tank: Float was laying in the bottom of the tank. Float rod will slip back into the hole where it is supposed to go but what holds it in place? Any sources for a new float? This car sat for at least 25 years with gas in the tank (about 3 gal. when I drained it) so is pretty gummed up. Any tips, tricks, etc will be greatly appreciated.