• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

153 Excellent

1 Follower

About jpage

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/14/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Johnstown, PA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. jpage

    My '35 KC 2nd Series restoration

    When you assemble the connections, look at the 3 hole spacer as there are the numbers 1-2-3 on it. The wires must be set in the appropriate hole in both connectors for the lights to work properly. A wiring diagram will show you which wire goes to which number.
  2. jpage

    1936 Dodge Headlight

    They are side specific because of the locking screw. Try Don Axlerod, he's the headlamp specialist. Just google antique headlamps, he should show up.
  3. jpage

    motor and flywheel prob

    Actually, the crank flange does not extend past the oil pan and the rear brg. cap is in the way. With the flywheel installed, i think it would be almost impossible to get a nut or your han d up behind the flywheel , it's pretty tight there. If you removed the pan, which you should probably do anyway to clean it out and check the bearings, remove the rear bearing cap which might give you enough room. Original bolts should not be a problem as I think they are the same for many years. why anyone would take them out is a mystery, unless they were damaged. Being pressed in, the bolts are tight in the flange. With just a bolt and nut, I would be afraid of any vibration possibly loosening the nut and bolt which could spell disaster!
  4. jpage

    motor and flywheel prob

    There should be shoulder type bolts that are pressed through the crankshaft's flywheel mounting plate from behind. You may not be able to replace them while the crank is still mounted in the block as there may not be enough clearance. The flywheel cover, what we call the bellhousing ,must be in place before mounting the flywheel. If you can't find the correct bolts, I might have some from a '36 that should work.
  5. jpage

    1931 Chevrolet

    Could you please supply some photos, info and price if you really want any response.
  6. Apparently, the seller doesn't realize that it's not an "A" body!
  7. jpage

    Doors for 37 DB coupe

    You might try Dodge City Vintage but Dave is a little hard to get hold of lately as he's part time.
  8. jpage

    '36 Dodge

    There are also 2 tags mounted on the firewall under the coil. The large tag is the Chrysler data tag and the smaller one is the body number tag and it also starts with D2. Pete is correct that the serial number tag is mounted on the right "A" pillar. This should be the number that the car is registered with but one of my cars had been registered with the body number. In the line up there are 6 sedan models: 2 and 4 door sedan, 2 and 4 door touring sedan , 7 passenger sedan and the convertible sedan..The touring sedans, 7 passenger and the convertible sedans have the bustle trunk and the standard sedans do not. It's important to know which one you have as all parts do not fit all models.There were severl through the year changes made so the serial number is needed to identify the correct part. Replacement parts are hard to find. Mechanical parts are easier to get as many are still on the market, some can still be purchased at many NAPA stores if you know what to look for. New body parts are virtually non-existent, but there are some hand made parts on the market but they don't fit very well from my experience. Steele Rubber has most of the rubber parts but again not all are duplicates of the original. Most new body moulding clips are not available new but some have come on the market recently. There are many small parts that are only going to be acquired by using a parts car or by hard hunting. There are several parts dealers that carry parts for these cars, Andy Bernbaum, Robert's Motor Parts , Restoration Specialties, Th Plymouth Doctor , Dodge City Vintage and several others. Swap meets can also be a good source for parts but you do have to know what you are buying.This forum can be a good source for parts and info as well as the internet and Hemming' Motor News magazine. Also the Dodge Bros. club. I've found that the best results are obtained by contacting other owners who have traveled this road before. I have been working on '36 Dodges for at least 20 years and have worked in the hobby with Restoration Specialties and have made some good contacts. I also do repair work on the side for these cars and would be happy to help in any way. Feel free to PM me with any need or questions as I have many of the replacement part numbers books and info. Best thing is for you to purchase a Master Maintenance manual for Dodge cars '34-'36, a Motor's Manual for '34 up and a '36 dodge parts book which can all be found on the internet. Information is one of the keys to getting to know your car and as a bit of advice, don't throw anything away until the car is complete also, there are a lot of parts that come up for sale on E-bay, many are not accurate for your car and most are way overpriced. Best bet is to inquire before buying something if you are not sure! How about some photos, we can tell a lot by pictures. Good luck with your project.
  9. jpage

    Window Sweeper for 35 KC

    There was no outer sweep on either the cars or trucks. The outside oval holes are for rubber bumpers. Most of the cars usually had an inner sweep. I don't know if the trucks had any inner sweep, they may have just had the rubber bumpers. Some folks try to add stuff so that so that's probably what you are seeing with the glued in rubber. Originally. both the cars and trucks had a rubber glass retainer channel that had a dust flap on the outer edge. That flap would help to seal out dust and debris but I don't think it kept out mush rain. make sure the drain holes are open on the bottom of your doors. There are a couple of ways to duplicate that outer dust seal. Get a length of "L" shaped rubber extrusion and glue it to the outer side of the glass retainer channel or, what we used to do, was when setting the glass in the channel, we would add a rubber strip in the channel along side of the glass. There are some rubber channel extrusions on the market but it's hard to determine if they will fit the channel and if the flap will be long enough to actually seat to the inside window sill.
  10. jpage

    Install a new Edgy aluminum head

    I thought Plymouth engines of that year used hex bolts not studs.
  11. Don't think these are '36 Dodge as the originals do not use vulcanized mats, they use a separate mat fastened with steel legs that are twisted to secure. The originals have indented receivers with slots otherwise they look like them. Could these be old aftermarket ?
  12. jpage

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I had that trouble with a Model A tranny, that had the reverse gear shaft that extended from the rear and was locked with a bolt and plate. Always leaked. I removed the shaft , cleaned it and replaced it using Permatex Quick Metal sealant and never had any more trouble. It's designed to fill small voids in shafts and metal parts. Good luck. If your tranny bolts were stainless, and if you remove the head markings like I do, you will discover that anything less than 316 grade stainless will rust slightly if the heads were shaved with a file or any steel has come in contact with them. The tiny steel particles get imbedded in the stainless causing it to get that light rust cast to it. It's best to sand the heads with emory paper and WD 40. Good luck, leaks are a real pain! Hope you're feeling better too! I've been done for the last 10 months with a broken femur and hip! Just started to get back to my '36 dodge!
  13. jpage

    1936 Dodge horn button assembly

    Forgot to mention to install the horn wire and contact plate so I did edit the previous post! No, it's not complicated , only a few parts but the drawings show it all assembled and is a little hard to see the detail. Here's a copy of the drawing.
  14. jpage

    1936 Dodge horn button assembly

    Inside the button itself there should be a brass cup moulded into it. In some early versions, this cup was separate. Then the conical brass cup, about 1 5/8 in. across at the wide end, is inserted into the button, small end first, followed by the 1 in. x 1 1/4 in. spring with the detented brass plate, the plate facing up. Then the "Y" shaped brass plate is positioned with the slots in the button body, pressed down and the lock ring is installed into the grooves of the body. In the column, the steel cup with the 3 locking legs goes inside the wheel followed by the wheel fastening nut. The large spring is inserted over the nut and the button is positioned over the retainer plate , pressed down and turned to the right until it locks. Hope this helps.
  15. jpage

    Common Sense Fasteners

    Nice ambulance Mr. Dennis. There was an original WWI Ford ambulance that showed up at Hershey several years ago that the owner found in France along with a lot of original accessories. My grandfather was in the veterinary corps in WWI serving with the field hospitals in France and Germany. There unit also had a fleet of GMC motor ambulances, all with nice big white wall tires!