jpage

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About jpage

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  • Birthday 11/14/1956

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  • Location:
    Johnstown, PA
  1. A lot would depend on the condition of the major parts like the engine and axles to give an idea of a cost to reassemble. While reassembling a Model A is not a really big job, if the engine or rear axles are bad, those things could cost several thousand dollars to repair and, by the description of that car, would not be practical in my opinion. I agree with Mr. Dennis, to check with a local Model A Ford club or an AACA club and see if you can find someone who knows Model A's to give you an idea of what's needed. Anyone could take on the project, but if they are not familiar with those cars, it could turn into a fiasco very quickly. I also agree that this would have to be a labor of love as the value of a vehicle like this is not much more than a parts car. If your husband really wants an A and wants to enjoy it soon, I would suggest just buying a good running driver: it may save a lot of frustration and money! Good luck with your project!
  2. The "FORD " caps are I believe '57.
  3. I haven't tried the dealer yet as most of the dealers who carried medium and heavy truck service in this area at one time were shut down by the government or went out of business years ago. It's hard to find any dealer around here that sells anything larger than a 1-3 ton truck. I'm not even sure if GM still makes med-hd trucks anymore. When I ask for anything that old, the guys just look at me as if I'm asking for wagon parts! I see lots of manifolds on the market but most seem top be for 427-366 cars, no specific listings for trucks.
  4. I have seen where some guys have replaced the plug in the side of the block with a longer set screw to hold the pump in place while installing the oil pan and never take it out.
  5. The dash does have to be removed to get rid of the old seal. I would try to get the Master maintenance manual for the '34-'36 Dodge cars and also a Motor's manual for that year because not all technical things are covered in the maintenance manual. You can't have enough tech books. The two clips that hold the small trim piece to the cowl is different that the clips that hold the main trim on. If you notice, the two holes for that piece are larger in diameter than the holes in the doors and body. Those two pieces use a larger arrow shaped clip similar to the ones that hold the thin hood strips on. All clips should install into the trim prior to installation except the clips that hold the trim around the grill opening and the side trim along the running board edge. The clips for the shell trim are no longer available, so if you have decent one, most are rusted, remove them very carefully. The running board clips are available in new old stock at Restoration Specialties in PA. Glad to hear that you are moving along, chatter about these cars have basically dried up on this forum. I haven't heard from any other '36 Dodge guys for quite some time.
  6. I don't know, I don't have them off the heads as the truck is still in service.
  7. Does anyone know any suppliers for new exhaust manifolds for a 1975 Chevy C65 medium duty truck with a 427 engine. Might be the same parts for a 366 but not sure. They might be the same as the passenger car but I think the med and HD trucks had different heads. Looking for both left and right manifolds.Thanks Jim
  8. I think we spoke of this before. If it's a steel corrugated floor, check with a local metal fabricator to see if they could make one. Vic Panza, a member, had one made by a local shop and it was perfect. I think the only made is for the short bed and expensive and one piece, better to have it mad in 2 pieces like the originals.
  9. Look very much like '36 Dodge /Plymouth 4 door sedan qtr. windows.
  10. If you want pre-made seals, I would go to Steele rubber. If you have samples of the seals and want to make them yourself, I would try Restoration Specialties in PA at 814-467-9842. They would be cheaper than Steele but Steele makes a nice product for the most part. They would also have many of the smaller rubber parts you will need.
  11. The building codes are supposed to be the same nationwide but each municipality usually has it's own set of rules. In many locations, any building under 1000 square foot area can be built without local inspections but almost all areas require zoning permits for pre-determined setbacks and you can only build up to a certain percentage of your property's total square footage. If your property is large enough, you shouldn't have much issue of relocation but moving a structure can be quite expensive unless it can be broken down into small sections. While building a replica isn't the same as having the real building, an accurate copy can still capture the style and appearance of the original whilst preserving the heritage and history of such structures that will eventually be lost to time. Many of these old stations are in such bad structural condition that even if moved, there would be a great expense in repair costs. Good luck to you in whatever decision you make. If I had the place and money I would like to save one too!
  12. If you are talking rear mud flap brackets, I'm not sure if they even came with mud flaps. I have not seen any factory shots of trucks with mud flaps or any well restored trucks with them.
  13. I agree, not even worth collecting in that condition.
  14. Dynamat has it's uses as an insulator but I would only use it on areas that are not exposed to water like the body sides and inside of the doors are. Reason being is that the door windows and body trim on those cars are not sealed from water and any edge can collect and hold water. I would recommend something like a heavy spray on undercoating or brush on bed liner material for the doors and body sides so the edges will not build up. Dynamat would be good on the floors and sail panel areas but it can get quite expensive.