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About jpage

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  • Birthday 11/14/1956

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    Johnstown, PA
  1. parts

    Bratton's and Snyder's are the ones that come to mind. There is also Mader's A & T parts in Staunton VA and Mac's too.
  2. I have 2 owner's books, one a pristine 2nd edition still in it's protective sleeve dated Nov. 1935 and the other, a well worn 1st edition dated Sept. 1935. They are both marked "for cars after serial number 4,015,051 and the only difference that I can see is that the 2nd edition lists the "Standards Of Adjustment" table on one page as opposed to 2 pages in the first edition. I think that you will find that the info is the same in each edition and one book was used for all the passenger body styles maybe with the exception of the convertible, convertible sedan and the seven passenger sedan. I would imagine that all commercial units had specific instruction books. I also have an "Owner's Service Policy " issued by the J.E.French Co. of San Francisco, CA for a '36 Dodge with serial no. 4097764 and engine number D2-85273 sold 3-28-36. Nowhere on any other form does it state which body style this car is.
  3. Body Number???

    The serial number is on a thin plate fastened to the right side "A" pillar. That is your cars I.D.number. The body number stamped on the firewall tag is a number probably assigned by the body manufacturer for their records and usually does not correspond with any other numbering system. It does not tell you when the body or car was built and unlike the serial number, does not appear anywhere else on the car. I don't know about the '42 numbers, but in '36 the body number would carry a suffix such as "S" for sedan, "TS" for touring sedan, "C" for coupe and so forth. We don't know if the sequence for these body numbers ran consecutively or if they were separated into groups for each body style. Maybe someone will have an answer for that. The factory parts books want the body numbers and serial numbers to identify the model of the car and time of manufacture in case of any in year changes. To find out about your car, contact the Chrysler Historical Society and request a build card. You'll have to contact them through their website and there is a nominal charge.
  4. 1937 Sending Unit

    I recently purchased one from KM Lifestyles which almost duplicated the original. I believe that the OHM rating for those units is 0 - 90
  5. Number 12 Screws, Aaarrgh!

    Most of these odd sizes are available from serious commercia; fastener companies; because they are not popular so most retail stores don't carry them
  6. 1935 Plymouth PJ headlamp parts

    Try Don Axlerod, the headlight guy. I think he has new bayonet type sockets along with originals.
  7. Back From the Paint Shop

    That's a great color! There's a local '37 painted in that color and it's really sharp!
  8. Good Chrome Shops

    I use Paul's Chrome in Mars PA and have always had good results. They may be a little higher priced than other shops but they do all the prep work and have a lifetime guarantee which they do honor. If you think that you may have a fitment problem, you should always send both the part to be plated and the part in which it fits to make sure. While they have corrected some issues for me, they are not responsible for parts that don't fit after plating without a trial piece. I have also used M & P Plating in Jeanette PA for smaller interior parts with very good results also. Both shops are busy so you may have to wait awhile but they have always been within their quoted prices. I do know that some local restoration shops use Paul's exclusively. Paul's also make a concerted effort to document all of your parts with photographs, both in the quotes and during production to make sure that nothing is lost.
  9. Positive Battery Cable

    The positive ground strap mounts to the crossmember just behind the battery box. Early straps are a formed piece and later straps are tinned flat braided cable. Make sure that the negative wire is heavy enough for the starter, later modern cables are too light.
  10. The body number is referenced on the build card and probably is a Chrysler Corp number used to track production. I don't know where the firewall tag number originates from, although it also is marked body number. One might be from the body manufacturer as I think that Budd made a number of the bodies. It's interesting to note that the number on the body tag does not appear anywhere on my build card, only the serial and engine numbers. The "S" on your tag denotes " sedan " as mine denotes "touring sedan", as your car does not have the trunk. Too, the engine number only appears on the build card and is not stamped anywhere on the car. I suppose, so that the engine number was not intended to be an I.D. number. Your car may show some early parts that were changed later in production. My car had door handles that had only one groove along the length of the handle as opposed to the later cars having handles with 2 grooves. The fan blade was an "X" configuration, different than the more common "cross" style and the trim around the headlamp stands was in 3 pieces as opposed to the later one piece style.It's interesting to see the subtle changes when you can compare cars built at different times in the production run and t different factories.
  11. 1930 tudor sedan deluxe

    Model A carbs have only one bolt holding them together so disassembly is easy. There is also a bowl drain plug but it would probably be better to take it apart for cleaning. The jets should also be checked but be aware of any gaskets under the jets that may get stuck or lost. In cleaning the jets, be careful not to enlarge the orifices which can cause bad mixtures.There also may be a brass seat in the choke/ mixture control rod tube that may need checked. Some folks don't know that the choke rod is also used to adjust the starting and driving fuel mixtures.If you are new and unfamiliar with Model A's , I would suggest purchasing some of the many publications available as help guides. They are simple cars, but do have tolerences that need to be followed to have them run correctly.
  12. I finally got to get the tags out and here's what i found. My early car was built on Dec. 19, 1935 and has the serial number of 4072128, which places it roughly around the 57,077 car built, but we are not sure of the building sequence. The engine number was 58567 and the body number is 3523817 and does not jive with the number stamped on the firewall. which does not appear on any tag. The number on the small body tag for this car is D2-114301TS.I have no idea how they numbered these cars.It's listed on the build sheet as Model L.M. Touring sedan-255. It's paint code is 805 and interior is 292. I think paint code 805 was either Mercury Metallic or Stratosphere Blue but it came painted in Avon Green which I think it code 302. The paint code printed on the sheet is blurred and hard to read, which may answer the question about the color.It was ordered with the Group "A" accessory package which included the dual horns, aux. tailamp, wiper and sun visor and the cigar lighter.It was actually delivered to a local dealer in my hometown.I had contacted this dealer, which by the way was terminated after the auto company fiasco, but they destroyed all old records long ago! The car that I'm restoring has serial number 4192423 and the firewall tag number is D2-85371TS. Answers to some of these questions may never be completely found out as so much is lost to time. Maybe some one could give us more info.
  13. Steering Column Mounting Bracket

    There was just a flat piece of rubber between the bracket and column, almost any flat stock could be used. Interesting to see a painted bracket, all my cars had chrome ones. I also noticed the anti-squeak material under the dummy door on the dash. My cars had none.
  14. 38 Dodge Brothers Fire Truck

    The knobs look like the same knobs used on '36 Dodge cars and are not available new, They will have to be recast. I had mine done, not cheap though. The rings had to be replated and the knobs were cast inside the rings as one unit and also cast to the shafts.
  15. Throttle, Choke cables

    Are the knobs screwed on or are they cast to the shaft? The '36 knobs are cast to the shafts so I made a new shaft from a stainless rod and threaded it to accept a new recast knob . Hardest part was cutting the grooves lengthwise on the shaft to fit the outer housing. I drilled out the end of the shaft to accept a new cable robbed from a generic hd choke cable and crimped the new cable into the new shaft. I have also reused an old shaft by cutting the old wire from the shaft, then drilling out the portion left in the shaft. Then I inserted a new cable and recrimped the shaft around it. I only had to do the throttle as '36's had an electric choke. All other knobs I had recast to the original shafts. On the outer sleeve that fastens to the dash I opened the tube, as it was slotted, removed the old cable sheath and inserted the new sheath from the generic cable and then simply recrimped the tube around the sheath. I had the outer sleeve rechromed befor the new sheath was installed. These are the things that I enjoy about restoration work, trying to figure out how to rebuild something. I have had a few boo-boos and ruined some things, finding out that not everything can come apart without breaking! Good luck!