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About jpage

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  • Birthday 11/14/1956

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    Johnstown, PA
  1. When I was there, we toured the old district and there was an old Victorian mansion house up for sale that had been abandoned for years. It had a stone exterior and the roof had caved in, it was pretty well shot. Out of curiosity we inquired about the price and was told around 1 million at that time. Wow! Imagine what a decent one would sell for!
  2. Check out the old jailhouse and gallows of the infamous "hanging judge"! There's also a nice historic area with a lot of old Victorian homes,if I can remember right! I also think that there used to be an old soda fountain that was still open in town. It's been almost 30 years since I was there!
  3. I was just reading an old book on Fords that I bought at K-mart in 1976 about a guy who rebuilt and customized a '36 Ford convert.complete with new paint and chrome for only $5,100 which was the cost of a nice Chevy pickup at the time. Today figure that same build would cost $40-60 thou. compared to the same level of truck prices today! I can also remember going to Hershey show in the mid '70's and there would be maybe 40 Model A's, many brass cars and a good number of large classics like Cadillac, Packard and Dueseys and quite a number of old heavy and light trucks. The last time I was at Hershey , I think I counted about 20 Model A's and very few of the other ones. So people were restoring cars back then, and quite a few of them! I just wonder where they all went!
  4. Decoding a Build Card

    I'm not computer literate but If you are referring to the printed line to the right of the first set of boxes, yes there is a punch mark centered along that line in line with the number 6's, but these are 2 no. 5's also punched on that line. I thought that the first real punch card "computers'" came along after the second world war, but I could be mistaken. I'm surprised that no one could be more specific on this subject earlier in the post. Seems like most of the '30's Chrysler guys are gone now! Yeah, most truck buyers could not afford to spend a lot of money on options, but you do see a number of well equipped vehicles during the depression. Some large fleets were decked out nicely too.
  5. Decoding a Build Card

    The build card for your truck is a lot different than the one for my '36 car. I wonder if it is a build card or a final inspection ticket as it does not specify a few things like paint color. I think the numbers you see along the outer edge of each column are the factory code numbers for all standard parts. Notice how all the paint numbers start with 4 and the number 4 is heading that line item. To me that shows that the truck was painted in a standard color. Special paint jobs may have carried a different ID code. All the standard parts like bumper, shocks, wheels, tires and so forth carry a number 1 for each line item. I would think that the build ticket would have specified the paint color number . The other numbers along the left side of the card refer to other specifics, like under axle ratio, it reads 3.9 which would be the ratio, 58 stands for the type of chassis system used and 116 refers to the wheel base length. The power tire pump is an interesting option, didn't even know that they offered such a thing. Apparently , it mounted to the transmission and must have been operated by the transmission to supply air. Probably a H.D option for trucks for rough service. I noticed too, that it looks like your truck has an extra heavy bed if I read the option correctly. Of course I'm just guessing at all this.
  6. One thing that has changed, in 1975 you could still go to your local auto parts store, usually one that had been around for a long time, and buy a lot of parts for some makes of early cars right off of the shelf or you could order them. Body parts for some '40's and most '50's cars were still available and the counter guys would usually know what you were asking for. They also had reference books that they could use to cross over parts to different brands. Today, if it's not in the stupid computer, forget it and they look at you like you have 3 heads. There were a lot more older cars just sitting around then. I passed up a running '50 ford pickup for $35 because I didn't have anywhere to put it. One could find those '48-'54 Chevy pickups all over for not much more than $150! I had a buddy who had a '54 Chevy as his regular driver, he decided to sell it for $150 and a girl asked him if he would take payments. More parts then but less money! In 1975 I was making $1.75 hr! Paint products were sold in just about every parts store and it was a lot cheaper then and there weren't all the gov't regs. then either!
  7. 1938 RC 1/2t Engine Removal Project

    You never lose when you stay with the original parts and colors. To most serious buyers that's important, besides there's no accounting for taste. Not having to redo a gawd awful color scheme or a "special" personalized interior is a major plus, at least in my book! Then there's the guy who thought he needed a wooden floor in his all steel bed! I can't tell, is it black, dark blue or dark gray? looks good in the photos.
  8. I have 1 lone Rite-Way headlamp lens that I have no idea what it fits. It was among some lenses for my '36 Dodge. It measures 8 in. across and is about 2-1/4 in. deep.It's marked with all the standard Rite-Way markings and it has a number 55 under the patent mark. It also has a small lug on the bottom of the rim. The Dodge lamps only measure 7-9/16 wide and are a little shallower.It's in good condition but does have a few small scratches below the midline. I'd like to know if anyone can tell me what it might fit. I understand that WPC cars used Rite-way as well as some Nash and Studebaker cars. If I can I.D. it , I'll put it up for sale. Thanks in advance
  9. How far should I go with this engine

    Egge Machine is always a good engine parts source. you might try Terrill Machine in texas as well.
  10. How far should I go with this engine

    If you're thinking of having it bead blasted, you'll have to break it down, so I would just have it hot tanked to clean out all the water passages. Then,since the cylinders look good , just run a hone through them and install some new rings. With it broken down you can check all the bearing surfaces , head and block surfaces and do a good valve job. At this point I think that you should just go the whole way and recheck everything. Could save some grief later.
  11. I think that's manual, unless it's Spanish!
  12. Auto Inspection Companies

    If I was really serious about purchasing a car I'd go look at it in person! If your buyer doesn't have the time, that's his problem and decision.If he wants an inspection , make sure he pays for it! There's no opinion like your own!
  13. Glass Window Tolerances

    I would first buy the new channels so you have something to measure with. Temporarily install the channels and measure between the pads on the floor of the channels. The glass only has to have enough clearance as so not to bind on the pads. Make sure too, that the channels fit well so as not to present a pinch point.Before getting any glass cut, I would make a template from some smooth material like plexiglass or sanded 1/4 in. plywood to check for clearance and operation as flat glass is getting quite expensive. Restoration Specialties has several different channels available and they are listed by size in the catalog. They will also send samples for you to look at.
  14. 1933-1935 1st series

    Yeah, what was I thinking. The shackles are in the front eyes. On the '36's, the left front rear uses a shock eliminator setup and the right uses a large screw in bushing with a grease fitting in the center.I see from my service manual that the '35 car is reversed, with the solid bushing in the front, as shown in your photo, and the shackle at the rear. The rears are specific to the '35's and possibly the '33's as far as I can tell, but I think that the fronts are the same as the '36 car rear bushings. If the shackles are not too badly worn they can be reused. I had to use a combination of new and used parts on my shackles as the repros didn't always fit well.
  15. I believe that you can still purchase a new cylinder for a '36 Dodge at NAPA. The old Wagner Brake number was F-544 which can be crossed over. Just checked today, new unit $139.00 and in stock!