TwinCamFan

Pesd, I'm a buyer on your old junk turbo if you wanna sell it. Shoot me the price + shipping to 92692 if you wanna recupe some costs.

Pesd, I dont get on here as much as I used to but I did read the entire thread. Did you hear me yelling, ITS NOT THE RINGS!😁 (about your compression check. Plugs out, throttle wide open, 5 to 6 'hits' that's the compression you hear of the one cylinder you have the tester in, I suspect it will be much higher if you did it this way). On your turbo rebuild/upgrade, there are lots of compressor wheels(cold side) available. Stock is approximately a '12T' 14T us a great upgrade and in fact, if your housing has damage, it's a good way to fix it by having it made larger for the 14T. 16T is great for a modified 16V motor but I dont reccomend it for a stock motor. Unfortunately the turbine wheel (hot side) is the largest wheel made for the IHI RBH5 family of turbos. One last thought, when your brother said valve seals, he was likely right. Even tho only 14K on the motor they are 30+ years old and as mentioned earlier in the thread, valves themselves and guides were not of very good quality. I'd say just do the turbo rebuild for now (14T😎) uncork the exhaust and crank the boost to 13.5. AJ

When you crank the motor, does the tachometer move at all? The starter is only tuning the motor about 200RPMS but the tach should move some. Couple things about the HEP/Hall Effect/distributor pick up and just about any other name that has been used. I know the terminology police are lurking nearby... If the tach does NOT move when cranking, you still have an issue with the HEP. I've seen two things after replacing these. One was bad right outta the box, hard to believe but can happen. The other time one of the female recieving pins (on the engine harness side) inside the plugs had loosened and wasnt't making good contact. I had to ease it shut with a jewlers style screwdriver . There are 6 pins, check them all if the tach doesn't move. If the tach DOES move, have you verified that your camshaft is spinning when it cranks? The belts can fail by losing teeth so the crank sprocket has nothing to grab but the belt still *looks* intact on casual inspection.

I made one, it wasn't too hard. Started with some thick walled SS pipe 'tubing' if you will the same diameter(or a bit larger, it's the ID that counts) then using a cut off wheel on a dremel or small angle grinder, I notched one side in an inveted V shape about 1/2 wide at the bottom of cut to about double that-ish about 3/4s of the way up the tube. Basically the flared V shape just gives you room to R&R the keepers with forceps or a pick. Also, your local cylinder head shop will likely disassemble for you for a few dollars.

I too am thinning the herd this spring, was my red/ginger/black 89 16V one of the cars you are considering at $8500? I also am considering bring a trailer, it seems more race car oriented but plenty of collector cars too.

Sawzall will take care of it.

I'm thinking your closest ignition hot to the trunk other than back up would be to the rear windows?

I was working on some new planter boxes in the front yard today, it was almost 80 degrees so I had to take my shirt off AND I got a sunburn. SoCal world problems...;

I know I would certainly like more power from my TC...

Biturbo...

AND we've already established that the tach moves during cranking and no-start condition. It's not the HEP, gotta move on with diagnosis... Yes, fuel pressure can drop radically when the pump is weak and when *it* gets hot. Not really when the motor is hot, but the pump it'self can build heat. In fact a classic symptom of a failing fuel pump is *car stalled, but it started again after I let it cool down. Drove a few miles and it stalled again, restarted when cooled down*. You could throw a pump at it (if i'm using parts store pumps I like the Airtex pumps, they usually are quality and come with all the pieces. In fact, they will have the whole fuel level sensor and tank access door all attached and ready to drop in.) It's a lot less work than disassembling the whole assembly and replacing only the pump and hoses and pick up filter and... But A better DIAGNOSTIC test would be to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail schrader fitting and view it when the problem occurs but Im betting you don't have one of those so that means throw parts at it like you are the HEP switch.

Does your tachometer register movement during the hot no start condition? It wont move much, the starter is only spinning the motor a couple hundred RPM's but it should move some. if no bumping of the needle at all its your HEP/DPU as Mr Anderson said. If it moves you need to move onto the next potential culprit like low fuel pressure etc.

Ah yes, back in the day-back when we were *allowed* to work on TC's at the meets. I believe my Brother was with me in Reno and we did lots wheel bearing repacks, fuel lines, brake bleeds etc. Someone starts talking about 'liability' and next I know, no more servicing is allowed. Kinda changed the whole character of the meets from my perspective. Not sure if I've been to a meet since, maybe one. You had 16V red/ginger a while back didn't you Bill?

I have a red/ginger/black 16V car just taking up space in my shop. Putting a 413 in it would be up to you tho. Just would need a battery and you can drive it home from Costa Mesa. PM if interested.

Any chance your mechanic put a new water pump in with either head swap? Like some of the other responders here I'm not super confident in your mechanic. ANy mechanic can get a bad out-of-the-box part so a second shot at an issue is reasonable but a third and a fourth try doesn't pencil out in my book... AJ