fordmerc

Another issue: do I have to remove the cross-member to get the trans/OD out?

I need to work on my OD. (‘41 120) I have previously pulled engine, transmission and OD in one unit from above when engine was rebuilt and reinstallation went fine. Now, only the OD needs work. Is it reasonable to pull OD and transmission from below ? (I do have “instructions” in a Thompson Manual for “39-’48 Packards.) When I look at the geometry, it looks pretty shaky. I also reviewed the EconoDrive Training Book

clarification: there is no space/clearance for the 7/16 socket head; while I can use an open end wrench (and not the box end), I am concerned that it won't get the bolt tight enough. And I'm still concerned abut the root cause of the stripped bolts.

u-joint bolts stripped on '41 120. any suggestions for cause? old head on the bolts was 3/8, but available replacements are 7/16! so I can't get a socket on them! how do I tighten them?? to what torque?

I have a noise in my ‘ 41 120 driveline. I need some diagnostic ideas. Noise is low frequency, rather thumping. When car on jacks: noise in all gears, 3rd brings it out. At idle speed it is barely perceptible; worse (increased frequency and volume with perceptible vibration) at “10mph”; tends to disappear around “20 mph” but I don’t think it is gone. Visual inspection “normal”. The driveshaft installed can’t be made to rattle or move (except to rotate). Background: rear end pulled because of a noise that was intermittent, but getting worse and similar to the present. New bearings installed and rear end reassembled. That led to the current description of the noise – “similar” to previous. That then led to u-joint replacement. Noise does not occur with driveshaft removed. Questions: 1)any ideas? I will pursue all that I can. 2) Is there any error that I made during re installation of the rear end/differential that could cause this? 3) ?next steps? Thanks for reading --if only you could listen !

That makes sense. Thanks.

A "copper wire ring - (not gasket) " is adamantly specified in the rear axle manual to be placed on the studs before re-installing the differential carrier. No one has ever heard of this, much less know where to get them. How critical is this? Is there any alternative? [The ones I removed at disassembly looked like crush washers (?), but thinner. perhaps 1 mm flat width and .2 mm thick]

I got the answer ! The stamped number on my case matches the number of teeth on the ring gear divided by those on the pinion gear! Thanks for the education!

How can I determine rear axle ratio (without counting teeth) I know my choices are 4.54:1 or 4.36:1 car is '41 120 with OD - carrier case stamped with "319965 T 2 " car built before 5/21/41

I just completed one axle removal ! I welded a 7/8 14 nut to a 5/8 12 nut, used a piece of threaded rod screwed into the smaller nut, attached the larger to the axle, slipped a 1" pipe over the rod, placed a large washer on the end of the rod and a bolt to hold it in place , and voila ! ... a poor man's slide hammer effective for this purpose ! [A word of caution to all who might try this: make sure the car is far enough from the garage wall to allow axle removal - preferably more than the 2 inches I had left.]

Both solutions are brilliant! -as is the use of the slide hammer for insertion leverage and support. Thank you!

Packard manuals (46-50) describe "Puller J-2552" which looks to be a slide hammer system to remove the axle. It seem to be attached to the axle at the end of the axle where the axle nut would be. Is this understanding correct? -this seems like a lot of pull on the threads (?) Would this apply also to a '41 120? The final question is how to get such an attachment since contemporary slide hammer systems don't seem to screw on to an axle? Comments and advice on removing my rear axle will be appreciated. [ Reason for removal is a noise in the rear end that doesn't sound good.]

I have a noise when the car ('41 120) is in overdrive: under car, approx 120-150 per min at low speed, a "knocking" pitch, not so noticeable at 30 mph but I didn't push beyond that. Intensity not enough to make me park it but on the way home I was nervous. Probably present at end of last season but frightening now. I would appreciate comments on possible causes or troubleshooting to be done.

Does the 12 transmission have the access plate/cover which can be removed from below? (That provided easy access on my 120.)

Right side hood latch "pops out" if I hit a bump - and sometimes on it's own. ( '41 120 sedan) The hood is then loose but not quite free enough to open. What adjustments can I make to solve the problem? I have looked and tried some minor adjustments to no avail. Troubleshooting suggestions welcomed.