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About franklinman

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  1. franklinman

    1925 Touring Running boards?

    They were originally steel on the 1925 cars. Myers has new ones.
  2. franklinman

    Brake lining specs: 1915 Dodge

    I would be careful going with too think of lining on any external contracting brake bands. These cars have pressed steel drums, which expand quite a bit more than conventional cast iron drums, when they start to get hot. When this happens you loose all that "extra" space and end up with brakes dragging/locking up, which can actually cause a fire at the worst. You can't believe how hot these brake drums get in service.
  3. Hi Tony, Now that's an explanation that I had not even considered. And it's pretty obvious when you think about it. That also would pretty much make you want to have a box of some sort under the hatch so that anything wouldn't roll or slide to the rear of the trunk area where you still couldn't reach it. Fantastic!
  4. I am curious if anyone has (or has fabricated) a tool as shown in the Mechanics Instruction Manual for turning the outer rear axle bearing retainer. The retainer has a number of ears around the outer circumference that the tool engages and then can be turned via two handles. Without the tool it appears that all one could do is resort to hitting an individual ear with a hammer and punch, which it looks like a previous owner attempted to do on my car. Several ears are slightly deformed now and I am very reluctant to try doing that further. What method do those of you folks use. My car is a 1925 model.
  5. OK DB experts (or at least for those more experienced with late 4-cyl. Roadsters than I) here's a question that has come up with a recent purchase of my '25 DB Roadster. I recently purchased my first non-touring car DB. In the top of the "shelf" behind the seat back there is an access panel that is removable by pulling up on a tab attached to the panel. As my car has (to all appearances) it's original upholstery and top I am assuming that is correct for the car. The question is this; once the panel is removed there is nothing under it other than the trunk floor, which is quite a ways below. It wouldn't seem to be reasonable to go through the added steps to put the removable panel in when it really doesn't provide a useful storage access. I cannot see any evidence, or the remnants of, any kind of shelf, box, etc. ever having been below the panel in my car, and have now spoken with two other owners of '25 Roadsters whose cars are like mine. Am I missing something or this just the way the cars were built?
  6. franklinman

    1925 DB Car No. plate stamp size ?

    Hi Mike, After seeing your photo, along with the prior one posted by JayG, I had pretty much come to the same conclusion. The alignment and individual number spacing is simply too consistent to have been stamped using individual stamping dies. I suppose that it's possible they had some sort of holding fixture that individual dies could have been placed in that would have held them tightly in place when stamped (think something along the line of typesetting). I'm leaning more towards having my new plate engraved now that I've seen these two original plates. I'm sure a local jeweler or trophy shop should be able to do the job. Thanks again.
  7. franklinman

    1925 DB Car No. plate stamp size ?

    Thanks JayG. That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for!
  8. franklinman

    1925 DB Car No. plate stamp size ?

    Thanks for the help thus far guys. That 1927 plate is different from the earlier style like mine. I'd like for someone with a nice original to measure the height of their numbers and maybe post a nice clear photo that would give me something to work with. I have access to a number of older stamp sets if I know the size.
  9. I’m replacing the ID plate that was missing from the toe board on my ‘25 DB roadster and would like to know the size and font style originally used at the factory for the car number stamped into the plate. Any help appreciated.
  10. franklinman

    Fall Carlisle Pictures 2018

    I feel that in some way(s), to a greater or lesser degree), all swap meets are diminishing in attendance and the availability of good parts. To some degree this can be attributed to the expansion of the internet selling sites and forums. I also think that realistically we have to accept that there are fewer good parts left out there than there were 10, 20 or 30 years ago. For those of us who can remember wading through piles of NOS parts from the 1920's through the 1960's and even more, for those like me, the great selection of earlier brass-era items that regularly showed up at meets like Hershey, today's swap meets are indeed a shadow of what once was, albeit a wonderful memory. I can think of many vendors who were major players in their day that are no longer active today. The good news is that many of those parts have now been put to use in the restoration of more cars! That being said,, I am not one of those who are constantly predicting the death of the hobby. It will continue on, with the old timers (like me) becoming less active and newer and younger members moving in to take our places. The market and prices will certainly change due to changes in demand for certain types of cars. After all, what markets don't experience fluctuations over time? Another reality, and one that I see on a regular basis due to being in the restoration business, is the increased costs of participation. It's no longer so easy to "fix up" and old car on a shoestring budget, and this has eliminated some from our hobby. But in truth there are still many decent older cars out there that can be acquired for less than a fortune. I saw a number of what I would consider to be good buys at Hershey this year. So no, the swap meet/buying experience is not what it once was, but events like Hershey will continue to attract the hobbyists if for nothing more that the fellowship of congregating with like minded folks, exchanging information, and enjoying our cars.
  11. I had mentioned this in another post, but more as an afterthought. If anyone knows if Myers come to Hershey, and if so where their spaces are, I would appreciate knowing.
  12. Hi Mattml430. Your cars must be later model Dodge Brothers since you stated you had changed them from 6 to 12 volts. Our early 4-cyl cars are originally 12 volts, and in my case (1925) it positive ground. Thanks to input from several of those on this forum I have found a source(s) for point, but I am still curious if anyone with an early DB has had any success with converting to a pertronix (or similar) solid state ignition unit.
  13. franklinman

    Cleaning a fuel tank

    Ditto on the in-line filters also. I should have mentioned that as well in my original post response. Most folks just can't believe how much trouble a little fine dirt/rust can cause!
  14. Since I've been away from the early DB's for so many years I'm re-learning what is available and what isn't anymore. It seems that caps, rotors, and condensers aren't really a problem; but point sets seem to be in limited supply (or not available at all). What are you guys doing for points? Is there a source, or substitute, that I'm not aware of out there? Has anyone had any experience with trying to fit/run any aftermarket system, like the pertronix modules for example? I'm not a big fan of modifying my early cars, but I've seen some done that are fully inside the distributors and nothing visible when properly installed that seem to work very well. Also, I've found where ROMAR will be in the upcoming Hershey Swap Meet, but I can't find out where Myers will be, if indeed they attend the meet at all. I've sent an inquiry through their website but have not had any response. Thanks.
  15. franklinman

    Cleaning a fuel tank

    Just curious, since you have the tank out and have gone this far in getting it cleaned out, why wouldn't you go ahead and seal it? It's good insurance against any future problems developing if it's done correctly. We've been doing this for 35 years and have never had a problem develop from a tank that we've sealed.