jrbartlett

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About jrbartlett

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  • Biography
    Grew up in the hobby working on father's Packard, DeSoto & LaSalle, driving on car tours in the 1960s
  1. Could possibly help -- a trip to Fredericksburg is always fun -- but would only be available for perhaps one day from Dec. 1-3. Not sure you will be there then.
  2. OEM parts found!

    Do you have any ferrous oxide?
  3. TRAILER

    I bought a 2004-vintage Featherlite enclosed trailer a year ago, and its quality is very impressive. I found no evidence of cracks anywhere, but will be watching for any. And as is typical for a used trailer, I had to replace the tires and brakes. It has the 8-lug wheels with 235-16 tires; uncertain of the axle rating.
  4. Solution to Severe engine flooding

    Here's my take from encountering this problem years ago. Odds are the car will not start because: 1) The gasoline has washed the oil off the cylinder walls, and you aren't getting enough compression. In this case you'd need to squirt some oil into the cylinders on top of the pistons and spin the engine so the oil gets onto the cylinder walls and seals the rings. 2) Or the gasoline itself is old and has degraded/separated into its component parts. I've had this problem with small equipment that sat up too long. Requires draining all the old gas out and replacing with new. 3) Or you still have the flooding problem, and the mixture is too rich to burn. If so, find and fix the problem causing the flooding, and take the spark plugs out and let the engine set for a while so the excess gas can evaporate out of the combustion chamber. You may still need to oil the cylinder walls. 4) Or you have a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm that is pouring gas into the engine pan. I've seen instances of the entire crankcase filled with gasoline on old Chrysler slant 6's. They would not start despite getting fuel and spark. But sometimes they'd blow the entire pan off. Again, the problem was the gasoline diluted the oil and there was no compression. 5) Or this is an older car with a vacuum tank with a stuck float, due to a loose bushing above the float. Gasoline then gets sucked directly into the intake manifold via the connection between the manifold and the vacuum tank, completely bypassing the carburetor. 6) Or your carburetor is gummed up and the float is stuck down, or is full of gas and has sunk. This may be the most likely cause, rather than a carburetor mis-adjustment. You didn't mention the car or the type of fuel system it has. More information would help.
  5. Scranton-Area Question

    I'm going to be in the Scranton - Pocono area over the Thanksgiving weekend, thru Monday. Is there anything old-car-related going on in the area during this time? Any collections or museums that I should try to see? Many thanks.
  6. Garage & Car Barn Thread

    Really sorry for what you lost. I'm considering buying/building a house and car barn somewhere out in the Texas Hill Country, and was wondering about fire-resistant building materials and techniques. The interior window coverings never occurred to me as a hazard.
  7. Just thought I'd throw in with the fact that when my father bought a brand-new '66 back in the day it was equipped with the triple-white-stripe tires. I seem to remember that all three stripes were equal-width thin, but I could be wrong about that.
  8. 425 nailhead fan

    It is balanced. Most likely the blade spacing is meant to reduce noise. Perhaps someone more in the know will weigh in.
  9. Supercharged Packard

    The estimate given of horsepower gain from addition of a blower may be over-optimistic. '35/'36 Auburn straight 8 gained only 35 HP from the addition of a blower -- from 115 to 150 (advertised numbers). That was from a 278 cubic inch engine. Duesenberg J's 420-cubic-inch engine gained 55 HP from addition of a supercharger -- from 265 to 320 (advertised numbers). The latter figure later went to 400 HP with changes to the intake manifold design and addition of another carburetor, and maybe some other changes.
  10. Opening '66 Riviera Trunk

    No vacuum release present on one of the '66s, but the other one does have a release. I had all the keys to both cars stored in a plastic bag, and the whole bag disappeared during a home remodeling project. Looked everywhere, but no luck. Probably mistakenly thrown in the trash.
  11. Opening '66 Riviera Trunk

    Regarding original 66 Riviera keys -- they did come with two different keys -- one for ignition, and one for trunk, glovebox, console and doors. We had a brand-new '66 back in the day. I also had a new '73, and got out of town one time without a trunk key. Dealer took out the glovebox lock and obtained the code number. I just didn't know if the same held true on a '66.
  12. Is it possible to open a '66 Riviera trunk without a key, or is it straight to the locksmith?
  13. Babbitt Engine Rebuilder in Pennsylvania Area

    Now, for a more practical side of this eternal babbitt vs. insert debate. I know you can get new rods made to any dimensions. But what is the availability of inserts to fit the typically large-diameter rod and main bearing crankshaft pins of '20s and '30s engines? I heard a while back that these inserts are getting hard to find, since the applications they were originally made for are now often also obsolete. If that is the case, won't we have to continue using babbitt in some (or many) applications? Also, since modern bearings tend to be narrow, how practical and reliable is it to line up a couple of inserts on the typically wide main bearing surfaces of older engines? Also, in my five decades in the hobby, I've see dozens upon dozens of '20s and '30s-vintage cars with well over 50,000 miles on the odometer, all put on by the original longer-stroke engines with babbitt bearings. My '29 Super Eight Packard is now approaching 50,000 miles, still on the original rod and main bearings, according to the car's past owners. It's still smooth and quiet. So YES, INSERTS ARE BEST. I would go that route where possible. But NO, BABBIT DOESN'T WEAR OUT OR TEAR UP INSTANTLY, AND CAN LAST FOR TENS OF THOUSANDS OF MILES AT REASONABLE SPEED. Though admittedly, not at interstate highway speeds. For engines with odd dimensions that couldn't be accommodated by modern insert bearings, I wouldn't hesitate to re-babbitt them and not worry about it. Babbitt would also be fine for the way most of us drive our antiques these days -- with care and recognition of their advanced age and technology limits.
  14. Car rescue in houston

    Dynaflash, that's me you're wondering about. I now live on a hillside (rare in this area) north of Houston overlooking a creek that looked like the Mississippi River during the height of the rain. But it never came more than halfway up the hill. All my cars are fine. My former house in Houston -- which you visited -- was flooded. We're all concerned about the Doerflers' situation and will be over to help when the water goes down -- which is probably a week or two away.
  15. How to Clean out the Gas tank on a 32 Packard

    Just went through this with a '36 Cord gas tank. Left Evaporust in it for two months -- it did nothing. Also tried rotating the tank with rocks inside. Again, little to no improvement. The rust was too severe. Eventually sent the tank to Renu. Do a search on that name and you'll find information on their process.