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Everything posted by edinmass

  1. The rods can be Babbitted without removing the crank. Simple job. Be sure you get someone who has LOTS of experience in prewar cars.
  2. Frank..no worries. Just like to know the active pre war car guys around me. We are a rare breed. I haven't met Bob in person yet. I will try for the meet in Kinlgberg but I have to be at the new museum that week and I am not sure I will be home in time for the show. I have made a handful of friendships from this site, and some are now close friends. I actually knew AJ's mom and dad well from the CCCA in the mid 1980's but had never met him until the mid 2000's. He became an instant close and trusted friend. Last year we discussed doing a meet in centeral Mass for the local guys on the forum. I have been so busy we never got it past the talking stage. Maybe next summer we can get a informal weekend based out of a small hotel for a few days drive.
  3. I would NOT two tone this car. As it already is. The wheel and drums being very light significantly hurt the car. A tastefully done stripe is fine. A cover on the rear spare is also a nice touch. Some people won't buy a car from this era without the dual mounts. Any change to make the car more eye appealing.
  4. AJ- I am sure you parents know Don quite well. I visited him last year, he must be close to 90 now. He lost his wife two years ago. One of the few guys who were in the hobby when it started and are still with us. He has lots of different cars, Packards and T's seem to be his favorites. But Caddys and Lincolns as well as one off coachwork are still in his garage.
  5. Lots of issues to resolve. If the mains are clean and show no problems, you can probably get away with just doing all the rods. Be sure the throws on the crank are round, if they are too far out of round you will have to turn the crank. This deep in be sure to do a valve job, check the springs, and hone and re ring the motor.
  6. The Caddy flat heads are definitely a challenge, and the carburation pre 1932 is terrible on the eights. What town are you in?
  7. You won't find direct fit valves, if yo do it will be a 1000 to 1 shot. It's gonna be easier to make what you need.
  8. Nelson is a long time friend and great guy. You can try but he probably won't have the valves. It's easiest to turn down another set to what you need. There are pleanty of valve suppliers, problem is they won't usually deal with a retail customer. Find a good rebuilding shop, that can help. Problem is you can spend hours sourcing the stuff. Offer to pay them for their time and let them know you understand that are helping you and providing a service. The shop that did the other Chandler motor should be able to handle it.
  9. Have the set ground if everything else is ok. Should be easy to get done. Knurl the guides......and you can ream them to fit the valves if you wish. Reaming the guides may be the least expensive option. Be sure to keep everything square. And you will have to cut the seats and not lap them if you ream out the guides. You can call,e during the day tomorrow if you need any more help. Ed.
  10. F&J - I like the style of the 34 LaSalle, it's a sharpcar. But......in order to cut costs GM basically combined the devision with Olds as far as the platform went. It's not fair to compare it to the few companies still making the multi cylinder monsters. It was a great car for the value, above average in style and design. As my passion has always been the large monsters, overall the 34 LaSalle is probably a better driving and handeling car than the Caddy 16 and the Packard 12. For my taste.......which is NOT typical....... it's rather small. I know, I'm a car snob. If it's not an oversized monster it just doesn't float by boat.
  11. trimacar- AKA- David is 100 percent spot on. When I first saw the car listed for sale I immediately knew the wheel treatment would make the car a very difficult sale, and I would not even consider selling the car in its present wheel paint configuration. Studebakers have a large following, but few bring big dollars. The truth of the matter is today it takes two things to sell a five or seven passenger sedan from a obscure make exceptional price and good condition. Fortunately you have a car in a desirable condition, the car will sell, once you arrive at its current market value. Remember not only do you need to consider what a Stude will bring, often for not much more money you can buy a more prestigious and deseriable brand for just a little bit more money. David's approximate price range is probably right where I would expect it to be. I would also expect the owner of the car has twice in it or more than he can expect to get out of it.
  12. Most pre war cars are 72 inches max........Packard, Pierce, Auburn, Stutz, ect.
  13. Sold at the Quail Lodge auction, it's usually possible to get a new owners name right after the sale, this far out, most people's memory's won't remember on a car of that catagory. I would look in the directory of the CCCA ad the Cad-LaSalle club. The LaSalle world is rather small, ask around, you will find it.
  14. Disconnect all the wires to the coil, run a jumper to power and ground, jump power to the starter solenoid and the car will run without touching anything else. As long as there is no steering or trans lock, your good to go. Probably your best bet is to just tow it home, spend the money not to damage the car, and just right it off as a minor setback.
  15. In 1982 I bought a 1952 Plymouth Cambridge coupe with 12 thousand miles on it for 400 bucks. Battleship gray, three on the tree. Great car. Always started even in fifteen below when my dads new Caddy wouldn't fire off. Often wondered what happened to it after I sold it in 1984. Last summer it was at the Elks cruise night in my hometown, now a hotrod, but still with the same guy I sold it to way back when, and yes, he made all if it reversible so it can be put back.
  16. Wilbur - PM sent, check your mail. Ed
  17. Rand Bradstreet in Ohio for both carbs. As I am sure you realize the correct carb isn't going to be cheap. Be sure you buy the correct carb, not just close. Early cars are enough of a challenge without fighting the wrong components. Post in the Buick pre war section also. Fortunately the Buick guys are very active in touring and finding help for this particular car will be easy. Also be sure to post in the HCCA section and join the club. Good luck. 440-786-8141 Rand
  18. Lead didn't come into common use till after the war. The motor was designed to not have lead in the fuel. Don't install new seats, they are not necessary, and can only cause problems- I.E. falling out. Just do a regular valve job, removing as little as possible from the block. Adjusting mixture by thr seat seat of your pants is fine, if you know what your doing, and then be sure to always be on the rich side. Having a properly calibrated carburator for the application is where you should put all your effort. There are often fifty or more different factory calibrations for any particular carburator model, and they can vary widely from 200 to 500 cfm depending on the application for what it is being used for. Melting a piston or valve is common when people are inexperienced. Way too often people "just put another carb on it because the old/factory one is too expensive to find, get right, or just a plain lack of understanding of how stoichiometry works.
  19. By the way, replace all the valves. Those are two piece valves from days long gone by. Also, many people sell valves but they are not correct. Do a Rockwell hardness test on you valves, stems and heads, bet everything you find for sale is less than half what it should be. I would buy stainless blanks and have them machined localy. Drop your pan and clean it at the same time. Be sure to set up your distributor on a distributor test machine. It will run Iike new. Good luck! More photos please. Ed
  20. Swapping over carburators is a popular upgrade/fix for many reasons. Unless you have an exceptional understanding of stoichiometry and its relationship to carburation, you end up with poor results. Having a five gas analyzer to properly tune an engine is also a requirement when changing over carburators. I agree the problem with the valves probably existed before you ran the new carb. Very long story short, stock components restored correctly are your best bet every time.
  21. F&J - The power making up for the poor steering........well it's just that the 265 HP makes you smile and pound the living daylights out of the car you don't notice the rest of the car. I'm still up in Springfield Mass as of right now, but don't have any of our J's up north, or I would take you for a spin, All the big heavy cars steer like a 50's dump truck with a full load, acceptable but not optimal!
  22. I think the 34's would shock you as far as prices go. At least one sold privately not too long ago for huge money. I think they are rarer than many people realize. I like them, but I wouldn't fork out what they bring. Quality, fit, and finish were not to my liking. Only way to have a nice one is to over restore it.
  23. Be sure not to under volt the ignition system. Running a separate power buss from the battery for all the extra stuff is the way to go. Often people run electric fuel pumps and a bunch of other stuff off of the amp meter, causing voltage drop, and poor operating coils.
  24. Try a boat forum, lots of early boats ran eights.