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About edinmass

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    Springfield Ma.


  • Biography
    I love old cars and young ladies.

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  1. The rods can be Babbitted without removing the crank. Simple job. Be sure you get someone who has LOTS of experience in prewar cars.
  2. Frank..no worries. Just like to know the active pre war car guys around me. We are a rare breed. I haven't met Bob in person yet. I will try for the meet in Kinlgberg but I have to be at the new museum that week and I am not sure I will be home in time for the show. I have made a handful of friendships from this site, and some are now close friends. I actually knew AJ's mom and dad well from the CCCA in the mid 1980's but had never met him until the mid 2000's. He became an instant close and trusted friend. Last year we discussed doing a meet in centeral Mass for the local guys on the forum. I have been so busy we never got it past the talking stage. Maybe next summer we can get a informal weekend based out of a small hotel for a few days drive.
  3. I would NOT two tone this car. As it already is. The wheel and drums being very light significantly hurt the car. A tastefully done stripe is fine. A cover on the rear spare is also a nice touch. Some people won't buy a car from this era without the dual mounts. Any change to make the car more eye appealing.
  4. AJ- I am sure you parents know Don quite well. I visited him last year, he must be close to 90 now. He lost his wife two years ago. One of the few guys who were in the hobby when it started and are still with us. He has lots of different cars, Packards and T's seem to be his favorites. But Caddys and Lincolns as well as one off coachwork are still in his garage.
  5. Lots of issues to resolve. If the mains are clean and show no problems, you can probably get away with just doing all the rods. Be sure the throws on the crank are round, if they are too far out of round you will have to turn the crank. This deep in be sure to do a valve job, check the springs, and hone and re ring the motor.
  6. The Caddy flat heads are definitely a challenge, and the carburation pre 1932 is terrible on the eights. What town are you in?
  7. You won't find direct fit valves, if yo do it will be a 1000 to 1 shot. It's gonna be easier to make what you need.
  8. Nelson is a long time friend and great guy. You can try but he probably won't have the valves. It's easiest to turn down another set to what you need. There are pleanty of valve suppliers, problem is they won't usually deal with a retail customer. Find a good rebuilding shop, that can help. Problem is you can spend hours sourcing the stuff. Offer to pay them for their time and let them know you understand that are helping you and providing a service. The shop that did the other Chandler motor should be able to handle it.
  9. Have the set ground if everything else is ok. Should be easy to get done. Knurl the guides......and you can ream them to fit the valves if you wish. Reaming the guides may be the least expensive option. Be sure to keep everything square. And you will have to cut the seats and not lap them if you ream out the guides. You can call,e during the day tomorrow if you need any more help. Ed.
  10. F&J - I like the style of the 34 LaSalle, it's a sharpcar. But......in order to cut costs GM basically combined the devision with Olds as far as the platform went. It's not fair to compare it to the few companies still making the multi cylinder monsters. It was a great car for the value, above average in style and design. As my passion has always been the large monsters, overall the 34 LaSalle is probably a better driving and handeling car than the Caddy 16 and the Packard 12. For my taste.......which is NOT typical....... it's rather small. I know, I'm a car snob. If it's not an oversized monster it just doesn't float by boat.
  11. trimacar- AKA- David is 100 percent spot on. When I first saw the car listed for sale I immediately knew the wheel treatment would make the car a very difficult sale, and I would not even consider selling the car in its present wheel paint configuration. Studebakers have a large following, but few bring big dollars. The truth of the matter is today it takes two things to sell a five or seven passenger sedan from a obscure make exceptional price and good condition. Fortunately you have a car in a desirable condition, the car will sell, once you arrive at its current market value. Remember not only do you need to consider what a Stude will bring, often for not much more money you can buy a more prestigious and deseriable brand for just a little bit more money. David's approximate price range is probably right where I would expect it to be. I would also expect the owner of the car has twice in it or more than he can expect to get out of it.
  12. Most pre war cars are 72 inches max........Packard, Pierce, Auburn, Stutz, ect.
  13. Sold at the Quail Lodge auction, it's usually possible to get a new owners name right after the sale, this far out, most people's memory's won't remember on a car of that catagory. I would look in the directory of the CCCA ad the Cad-LaSalle club. The LaSalle world is rather small, ask around, you will find it.
  14. Disconnect all the wires to the coil, run a jumper to power and ground, jump power to the starter solenoid and the car will run without touching anything else. As long as there is no steering or trans lock, your good to go. Probably your best bet is to just tow it home, spend the money not to damage the car, and just right it off as a minor setback.