Husky Jim

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />I am repainting my off color early 1916 Brass Touring Car to the proper black and am going to use PPG paint as supplied by my local paint dealer. I was hoping that someone could enlighten me as to the proper, or closest black to use. If you have a PPG number that they could mix to, that would be great as contrary to popular opinion, black is not always black I am told as there are varying shades as well as gloss factors to be considered. This is a driver that I use in the schools for show and tell, so it is not going to be judged, but I want it as authentic as is practical. Thanks, Jim uhldwm@ak.net

Try this link. They are the only free Internet valuation I know of for vintage cars that goes back to pre war stuff, but I am sure there are others such as the insurance companies use. http://manheimgold.com/car_lo.html

This from Rob Fricken: "It is the Jeep. The earliest had just mechanical but at some point during the war they went to this motor on the drivers side and a manual on the passenger side. This motor was factory in jeeps for many years (into civilian). Thus it may be a later jeep motor added onto an earlier jeep but either way it is jeep (or weapons carriers which use the same one). Rob " Thanks Rob, Wes, and 1937hd45

Can anyone identify this Trico vacuum wiper motor? What was it used on, and what years? It was on an early military Jeep with a 1942 engine, but I have been told since that these did not have vacuum wipers, only mechanicals unless they were added later. It has cast in the US patent dates and below that Canada 1943, and I assume Canadian patent pending numbers. There is also a #1 stamped in the center of the top, or flat area along the line of the axle shaft. This one is painted a flat black, but only God knows if that is the original color, but where it is rubbed, no other color seems to be present. Click on A [color:\\"blue\\"] <span style="font-weight: bold">Attachment</span> above to see photograph. Thanks in advance, Husky Jim uhldwm@ak.net

I have an engine, hood, windsheild assembly, and seat frame for what I believe was a 1942 Willys Military Jeep. I looked up the engine number once years ago. The windsheild frame is in two parts, right and left. The pieces were on my property when I bought it and I would like to find good homes for the parts. Problem is that I am in South Central Alaska near Anchorage and Wasilla. However, if you know of anyone interested, I can be reached at uhldwm@ak.net

I have an engine, hood, windsheild assembly, and seat frame for what I believe was a 1942 Willys Military Jeep. I looked up the engine number once years ago. The windsheild frame is in two parts, right and left. The pieces were on my property when I bought it and I would like to find good homes for the parts. Problem is that I am in South Central Alaska near Anchorage and Wasilla. However, if you know of anyone interested, I can be reached at uhldwm@ak.net

I ran across a young lady that is doing a frame off restoration on a 1937 International Pick-Up truck and she would like to know of any organizations and parts suppliers for these vintage Internationals. If you could e-mail her with this information, I am sure she would greatly appreciate it. She can be reached at laurie@bluskyedesigns.com

I ran across a young lady that is doing a frame off restoration on a 1937 International Pick-Up truck and she would like to know of any organizations and parts suppliers for these vintage Internationals. If you could e-mail her with this information, I am sure she would greatly appreciate it. She can be reached at laurie@bluskyedesigns.com

I ran across a young lady that is doing a frame off restoration on a 1937 International Pick-Up truck and she would like to know of any organizations and parts suppliers for these vintage Internationals. If you could e-mail her with this information, I am sure she would greatly appreciate it. WHOOPS THE PREVIOUS ADDRESS WAS INCORRECT, THIS ONE SHOULD GET TO HER. [color:\\"red\\"] She can be reached at [email:

Again, thanks for all the help and advise. I was able to purchase a new Xenon Strobe Tube for $4.09 from Radio Shack #272-1145 right off the shelf that fits and works well to repair my old light. The same type of bulb is available through Actron for $2.59, but they only ship Fed Ex, which would have run me an additional $27.00+, being in Alaska. Not a very good deal with the shipping, obviously. You might want to jot that Radio Shack tube number down for future reference. On re-bay I found a new in box Actron CP7504 Inductive Timing Light for a total of less than $12.00, including shipping. The Kal Equip, SunPro, Snap-On, Sears, Penske and Mac lights sold for much more, but the $50.00 Actron, most people don't know that Actron is the parent company of SunPro as well as Kal Equipment, so there were only two bidders. Something to keep in mind.

Thanks to all for the great information, I really appreciate it. Guess the best way to do this is to either use a remote 12 volt battery, or as one person suggested, just hook it up to a 12 volt battery charger. Thanks again, you folks are top drawer, Husky Jim

I recently found that the flash tube on my old timing light is broken, and unless someone can tell me where I can get another flash tube for a Penske Induction Timing Light #244.2115 that Sears no longer supplies, I need a new one. Now this may be a dumb question, but all I see are ones for 12 volt systems, and I now need one that will work on either 6 or 12 volts. I don't know if a 12 volt will work on both or not. Maybe using a ballast resistor, or just hooking up the leads to a 12 volt battery and the plug wire to the 6 volt engine would work, but I need some advise here. If it is not possible, or impractical to do any of the above, who can supply a good quality induction timing light at a reasonable cost and where could I acquire one? Thanks, Husky Jim uhldwm@ak.net

Har be what I ben larnt. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Hold over terms from the horse and buggy days: Car = abbreviation of carriage Dash Board = from the board on buggies that kept mud, dirt, water, and horse plop <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> from dashing against the driver and passengers Fender = to fend off mud and water Boot or Trunk = used to store and transport items Running Boards = This was a board that ran along the bottom of a vehicle or carriage, used by carriage attendants to stand or ride on and to aide passengers when entering or exiting the vehicle. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />