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About JohnO

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  • Birthday 10/27/1955

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  1. I can't offer you any technical advice, but since you have time, noodle on it for a month or two and decide if you want to undertake a project will involve a lot of time and funds that may not be recovered should you decide to sell the car. I have five old Buicks and am perfectly content to drive them as they were originally designed. It is just an honor to be able to drive what was.
  2. It's finally off. A straight 16 mm Snap On wrench did the trick. It is the same size as a 5/8 and was about the right length. I'm fortunate to know a retired GM Service Manager who has a good assortment of tools. It is too bad that you cannot just go out and buy a quality half moon (known as an obstruction wrench) when you need it. Instead, you have to wait for a delivery while your car sits outside. The exhaust had to be cut. The "candle wax" procedure worked just fine as the nuts to the manifold would not budge even after giving it the heat only. I removed the pipe to the manifold and cut the exhaust under the drivers door. The fix is to find a sleeve to clamp on. For anybody taking their nailhead Buicks on long trips without knowing the complete history, it may not be a bad idea to familiarize yourself on what to do should the starter fail. I think your fine from 1967 forward as standardization prevailed.
  3. Thanks for the responses. Since the car is sitting outside there is a sense of urgency for me to get this done. Sears does not stock the obstruction wrench so there is a lead time for delivery and the same applies for those selling on ebay. I tried bending a 5/8 Craftsman straight combination wrench in a manner similar to the obstruction wrench, but this is not working as the MAPP torch is probably not hot enough even though it will turn the section of the wrench cherry red. Although, it did bend a little. The next step is to grind some of the closed end wrench away on the side that is closed to the starter housing. Hopefully, it will allow like a 1/16 inch of a turn to start. On this 61 there is no way an open end wrench will get in there. At least I got one bolt loosened. According to Tom Telesco, there were three different block castings that were used in 1961. So even within 1961, access can be slightly different and starters are not interchangeable.
  4. The two bolts holding the starter to the block are not accessable with a socket, an open-end wrench, or a crows feet. The housing will not allow a straight shot and an open-end wrench hits the housing because it is to big - same with the crows feet. The only option looks like a 12 pt closed wrench. However, I am so reluctant to use a 12 pt. for the fear of rounding the nuts. If there are any other options please let me know. Thanks.
  5. I have two 61's so I'm partial to these cars. Assuming they are good quality drivers, these cars are priced at the upper end of the price curve. The sellers need somebody who really wants their car and does not mind paying more than anybody else since the cost of restoring one is so high. Unfortunately, these cars are rare and the buyer pool is small. I think sellers list in other cities in order to expand their coverage.
  6. I had this problem on my 61 Invicta with a Rochester 4GC. Without fail, it would always bog when turning right and going uphill. At other times it was somewhat intermittent. I bought a Carter AFB off the internet and rebuilt it. Problem solved. It had to be something in the carburetor.
  7. I saw the 57 in the attached link - an entry from Wayne Carini in the Auction Americas event in Indiana. If the 57 above is a high quality driver, it is well worth the price. The one from the auction looked like an older restoration where the paint had checked but was not visible in the pictures. Also, the interior while intact, did look a little tired. Overall, a true middle of the road "driver".
  8. Nice wheels! These wheels will fit a 1966 - 1970 full size Buick assuming of course they are off the Riv in the picture.
  9. This beautiful car was just sold at an auction. Just prior to going on the block, I noticed that the passenger window was not up all the way. So I sat in the car, opened the passenger door, engaged the window switch, and the window rose to the upmost position. If you look at the picture, the shut lines on the door are excellent; however, the passenger front window and the rear window are not even close. The gap is fine at the bottom of the window but is not even close at the top. Is something like that a big concern?I was thinking about bidding, but that along with a couple of other flaws deterred me. Thank you.
  10. These portholes were never used. I had bought them with the intent of putting them on my 55 Roadmaster, but have subsequently sold the car. $300 plus shipping. John O'Sulllivan Wappingers Falls, NY (@60 miles north of NY City) 845-462-3355
  11. There was one that was featured as a restoration project on Fantomworks - the TV show. They ended up having to buy a donor car. I do remember that the bill totaled $116K to restore it. This one looks far better than the one on the show.
  12. My booster was showing symptoms that it needed to be rebuilt. Rather than take the one off of my car and ship it, I bought a spare from a salvage yard and had that one rebuilt last summer. The logic being that I wanted a spare should there be any in-transit problems. I finally took the booster off of my car with the intention of installing the rebuilt spare. Everything is exactly the same on the two boosters EXCEPT the rod from the booster to the brake pedal is 3/8 of an inch shorter on the spare. Consequently, the brake pedal will be lower by about 3/8 of an inch. I have not installed the spare yet as I want to get some knowledgeable responses before I go through the pain of installation. Is this a cause for concern? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  13. I have 8 reproduction portholes for a 1955 Buick that were never out of the box until today. $425. Shipping would be from New York. My number is 845-462-3355 (H) or 845-913-6184 ©.
  14. The bottom moldings were unique to the Invicta. The upper molding would be shared with the LeSabre and perhaps some panels on the Electra.