JohnO

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About JohnO

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  • Birthday 10/27/1955

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    dynaflow1960@yahoo.com

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  1. I saw the 57 in the attached link - an entry from Wayne Carini in the Auction Americas event in Indiana. If the 57 above is a high quality driver, it is well worth the price. The one from the auction looked like an older restoration where the paint had checked but was not visible in the pictures. Also, the interior while intact, did look a little tired. Overall, a true middle of the road "driver". http://www.auctionsamerica.com/events/feature-lots.cfm?SaleCode=AS16&ID=r0237&Order=price&feature=&collection=&grouping=Wayne
  2. Nice wheels! These wheels will fit a 1966 - 1970 full size Buick assuming of course they are off the Riv in the picture.
  3. This beautiful car was just sold at an auction. Just prior to going on the block, I noticed that the passenger window was not up all the way. So I sat in the car, opened the passenger door, engaged the window switch, and the window rose to the upmost position. If you look at the picture, the shut lines on the door are excellent; however, the passenger front window and the rear window are not even close. The gap is fine at the bottom of the window but is not even close at the top. Is something like that a big concern?I was thinking about bidding, but that along with a couple of other flaws deterred me. Thank you.
  4. These portholes were never used. I had bought them with the intent of putting them on my 55 Roadmaster, but have subsequently sold the car. $300 plus shipping. John O'Sulllivan Wappingers Falls, NY (@60 miles north of NY City) 845-462-3355
  5. There was one that was featured as a restoration project on Fantomworks - the TV show. They ended up having to buy a donor car. I do remember that the bill totaled $116K to restore it. This one looks far better than the one on the show.
  6. My booster was showing symptoms that it needed to be rebuilt. Rather than take the one off of my car and ship it, I bought a spare from a salvage yard and had that one rebuilt last summer. The logic being that I wanted a spare should there be any in-transit problems. I finally took the booster off of my car with the intention of installing the rebuilt spare. Everything is exactly the same on the two boosters EXCEPT the rod from the booster to the brake pedal is 3/8 of an inch shorter on the spare. Consequently, the brake pedal will be lower by about 3/8 of an inch. I have not installed the spare yet as I want to get some knowledgeable responses before I go through the pain of installation. Is this a cause for concern? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  7. I have 8 reproduction portholes for a 1955 Buick that were never out of the box until today. $425. Shipping would be from New York. My number is 845-462-3355 (H) or 845-913-6184 ©.
  8. The bottom moldings were unique to the Invicta. The upper molding would be shared with the LeSabre and perhaps some panels on the Electra.
  9. Does anybody know of a source for these bolts? The bolt has an oval head and slides down on the inside of the bumper. It is oval so that it can be inserted down the slot and when you attach the nut it will not spin. Even the speciality fastener place here in town does not have it. I googled and cam up with nothing. If I can't find anything, the only alternative is to take a large hex bolt and grind down two sides. Thanks
  10. I have a 61 Buick with a 401. The carburetor that is on it is a Rochester 4GC number 7019040. Can I replace that with a Carter 3088S without having do anything with the linkages for the accelerator and the transmission? In other words, a simple swap. Thank you.
  11. How is it running now?
  12. I don't know about a 49, but I have a 55 Roadmaster. The brake fluid is checked with a dip stick on the drivers side in front of the firewall since the master cylinder is under the drivers seat. Point is, be careful and try to follow the line to be 100% sure.
  13. It is the 4 bolts and nuts that hold the bumper to the bracket. It has got to be the same on all cars around that period. On my 68 the head of the bolt is on the outside of the bumper, on the 61 it is on the inside. Thanks
  14. I tried to remove the rear bumper so I could have it rechromed. I got the two upper nuts off, but the lower two nuts just spin in the bumper and I can't get them to bite. There is pressure on them without the uppers. The bolt was probably is some type of welded part which broke when I tried to get it off. It's within the bumper so I can't get my hand in there. 1) Nutcracker 2) Dremel tool and try to cut the nut off 3) Grinder. 4) ???? I presume there is a source for the nuts and bolts. Thank you.