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About JohnO

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  • Birthday 10/27/1955

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  1. I am in the process of replacing the rear coil springs on the 82 Riv. The control arm is supported by a floor jack and the rear shock absorber has been removed; however, when I lower the jack the coil spring will not release. It is as if I have to remove something else (such as the sway bar) or the coil spring refuses to let go. I can pull the jack out and everything would remain intact. I think it is the original coil spring. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thank you.
  2. JohnO

    1956 Century - 25k miles on CL

    Beautiful car! It was in the car corral at Hershey.
  3. My first collector car was a 60 Invicta with a Carter. After 21 years of service I had no issues and never touched it. Within the past 6 years I bought a 58 and a 61 with the Rochester 4GC. Due to driveability issues I swapped them for Carters - not correct for that same year, but close enough. I like Carters for their simplicity. It is a carb that is easy enough to rebuild and I was fortunate to find ones that were complete and not directly exposed to the elements.
  4. JohnO

    WTB - Seeking 56 Buick car

    You can also check the major auctions such as Mecum, Barrett-Jackson, and Auctions America. I've registered as a bidder and attended both Mecum and Auctions America auctions. The downside to buying at an auction is you cannot test drive the car. However, you can sit inside, check the underneath, and watch the car being started and driven to the staging area at the auction. Yes, there are some bad cars, but some good ones also.
  5. JohnO

    White Walls

    I would pass as well. I did order a set from diamondback for my 55 and was pleased. The whitewalls were really white. As noted in a prior post, something in the 2.5 inch range shows well for a car in this era.
  6. JohnO

    1955 Buick starter question ?!

    I'm not sure what your plans are. In those years it is best to rebuild the starter that came with the car. I can't speak to the 55's but in 1961 Buick used three different block castings for the 401. So, even a starter that came off of one 1961 Buick with a 401 will not necessarily fit another. The same could be true for cars in the 50's, but I am not sure.
  7. I had my starter rebuilt and the problem is it keeps cranking. What I know: 1 - Even with a remote starter being used to supply voltage from the battery directly to the "S" terminal (bypassing the ignition switch) it will continue cranking when you release the switch. It is somewhat intermittent meaning that it will stop cranking on its own or keep cranking to the point where you have to disconnect the ground on the battery. It will not start cranking again once you reconnect the ground. 2 - I contacted the rebuilder. He installed a new solenoid and it does the same thing. 3 - There were no shims. 4 - It is the same starter that was rebuilt. Prior to the rebuild it always engaged smoothly. 5 - You can see on the starter gear where contact was made with the flywheel. It looks even enough and it does not clash. There was a new drive and gear installed. 6 - On the bench, the starter is fine. Possible options going forward: 1 - Remove the starter and grind the gear where the starter is making contact with the flywheel. The logic being the old starter gear and the flywheel were wearing at the same rate; however, the new gear is slightly larger causing it to bind in the flywheel. 2 - Wing it by trying some shims. I would start with a shim behind the top bolt. Conclusion: 1 - Definitely not the ignition switch. 2 - Highly unlikely that it is the solenoid as two new solenoids were installed. 3 - The problem is how the starter gear engages with the flywheel. If it was the generator it would not be so bad, but I don't like removing and installing starters. Any ideas? Thank you.
  8. JohnO

    The starter just grunts

    Great idea!
  9. JohnO

    The starter just grunts

    You don't need another jump. The "S" terminal activates the solenoid that makes the connection to engage the starter. The other terminal is the "R" terminal which if used, bypasses the ballast resistor to provide a full 12 volts directly to the coil while the ignition is in the start position. In laymen terms the "S" is an input terminal and the "R" is an output terminal. Now, my experience is limited to two starters that I tested. In my opinion, whether the problem is with the solenoid or the inner workings of the starter, I would take it to an electrical rebuilder.
  10. JohnO

    The starter just grunts

    Your will need: 1) Jumper cables 2) A fully charged battery 3) A wire to get voltage to the "S" terminal on the starter. My method for testing the starter off the car is as follows: 1) Connect jumper cables to the starter. The positive will go to the larger post where the original battery cable was and the negative will go to the starter housing (preferably around the holes where the starter bolted in to the block. Make sure the cable does not interfere with the starter gear. 2) Run the wire from the battery to the "S" terminal. I think the safest way to do it is to cut the wire in two: The first wire should have an alligator clip to clip to the terminal. The other a ring terminal to connect to the battery. Obviously the two wires have to be joined to complete the connection. I recommend a generic switch which can be purchased at an Auto parts store. I'm sure there are many other ways. If your sure your connection is good, the starter should function. If not, then the starter is bad.
  11. I finally completed the job. The sequence to install is in this order: First, the ball joint. Second, the rear bushing. Finally, the front bushing. A couple of other pointers since it does not go back in so easy are as follows: You may have to turn the wheel to find the best spot and after installing the ball joint and the rear bushing jack up the control arm numerous pumps to try to level the front bushing to the mounting bracket. Also plan on prying the control arm to get the bolt for the front bushing started.
  12. I am trying to replace my lower control arms in the front of car. No problems with disassembly. I have the ball joint and the rear bushing connected (the horizontal one). The front forward bushing (vertical one) is giving me the trouble to the point where I cannot get it centered to accept the bolt. It seems as though I would have to disconnect the strut to move the control arm upward or install the tires and drop the car. I tried jacking the control arm but that does not help. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
  13. JohnO

    Ignition Switch Removal - 61 Electra

    Cancel the call. I did tap it out with a hammer and screwdriver and it did not damage the nut - numerous soft taps did the trick.. Removing the tumblr was not all that easy. With the key in the ACCY position, I inserted the paper chip through the little hole to depress the latch and tried to turn counterclockwise without success. It took numerous attempts and a shot of PB Blaster to shake it free.
  14. I need to replace the ignition switch on a 61 Electra. The problem is the nut securing the bezel. I have already removed the tumblr. Does a tool exist to remove the nut as it needs 8 points of contract or can something be quickly fabricated? I presume it is the same setup as a 62 or even up to 64. At this point I don't want to go the hammer and screwdriver route. Thank you.
  15. It sounds more like gas than electrical. In my experience electrical problems result in a sharp miss or immediate stall with no in between. It does not hurt to have a spare carburetor. Even though they are usually reliable, I've had driveability issues on my 58 and 61 which I attributed to carburation. Both had Rochester 4GCs. I found some Carters on ebay and had success. Since you replaced the ignition system components it is unlikely that the problem resides there.