bluetaxi

I pulled the head to install a new head gasket, and noticed that the plugs were all pretty carboned up. Had been running W14 plugs. I looked up what would be a hotter plug, and ordered a set of W18 plugs. The W18 are MUCH longer than the W14s, and am concerned about clearance to the intake valve face. Am I OK?

They are very expensive, but have been and maybe still are being cast by Mariner's Marina: marinersmarinabarnegat@yahoo.com.

It looks like someone has installed an EM oil pump / distributor / generator setup on your EJ.

Robert - Lock cores arrived today. Four of the five were too long, and none was exactly correct. But the core length and nub on the more modern one with the keyhole cover was right. The photo of the three locks is (bottom to top): the original lock with the cracked case, the one you sent which fits, and a Slide-Co Patio Door Lock #141388 ($7.48 Amazon Prime). The Slide-Co fits perfectly as far as the core, but the keyhole face is about 1/8" smaller in diameter and slightly thinner, so that it is a sloppy fit. I installed the second lock core, and it is pictured in the handle. The keyhole face is about 1/16" thicker than the original (as also seen in the photo of the three lock cores), but now my car will lock!. As a side note, the Slide-Co Patio Door Lock key is the same key as fits my pair of side-mount wheel locks for the Dictator. Now, drivers door and rear doors lock from the inside, and passenger door locks with a key. I will be sending back the four cores which were a bit too long on Monday, along with reimbursing your postage for the ones you sent and making payment as we agree. Thanks - once again Joliet Studebaker and your wisdom has come to my rescue!

STILL LOOKING: No problem getting key blanks for this core - they are still stocked by our local locksmith. Problem is that new cores are not available, which is why I am looking an old one or an NOS one. I don't need the keys. In fact for one, I don't even need a set of tabs; just need to replace the broken case casting.

That makes sense, Dick. When I drilled out the lock core I had to drill into the top of the handle to release the brass spring tab (which seemed designed wrong), and the key orientation appears to be upside down with the locking handle on the driver's door. I'm sure the handle was for the opposite hand door! I wonder if points have ever been deducted in judging because the locking handle was on the driver's door instead of the passengers?... So many little mysteries...

The .516 agrees - which is the really important part (measured with inside calipers). Overall from face to the bottom of the round nub is .927 with the face being .130 leaving the .800 dimension agreeing. Only difference then is that the newer cores had the keyhole cover and thus probably a thicker face than the .130 (looks like .185 on your drawing). So, this core would interchange, but not be the exact part, and vice-versa, the older ones without the keyhole cover would work in newer applications. Gary - your idea of having then 3-D printed may be a very good idea, as I expect the brass bits are available as they are what locksmiths use to re-key these cores - but I have a feeling there are lots of these around, just that they are lacking identification. I would think the +- 5% tolerance would not be an issue if the .516 can be held so that the center of that brass spring tab from the face of the lock is correct so that the core will snap into the case in the door handle, trunk, or sidemount lock.

Yes, Gary - the spare wheel carrier locks appear to be the same core, but of course you can't remove them without drilling the case. Core would be confirmed in that key blank is also the same. Thanks for finding the part number! I now have more hope of being able to lock my door!

Robert - No number in the Studebaker part books for the lock core (it only appears to have come as part of the assembly). The proper door handle assembly is part 254798W and the key blank is 170466, if that helps.

Robert - Here is a photo of the core with key inserted. Core is overall 15/16" long to the end of the protruding knob. Critical dimension is also the length from the face to the spring tab which locks the core into the lock case groove - that dimension is 21 /32". Note that I have read where that dimension is supposed to be 15/16", which may be correct for the ignition cores which are larger, but is not correct for the door lock cores which are shorter. Also is a photo of the handle (if you have handles, it is 4 3/4" long 4 5/8" from the lock face to the square end of the shaft). Thanks (as always) for any help you can give!

Need a replacement lock core for the door handle. If there are two sizes, it is the short one, with the end spring leaf 11/16" back from the face. If I can't find a lock core, then would like to find a replacement handle.

He also watches this forum and replied as recently as just Wednesday...

studebaker@mac.com usually works or rkapteyn@mac.com last phone # I have is 815-722-7262

I had Rhode Island do my '32 Dictator ten years ago. Incorporated turn-signals and still looked very original. Perfect fit.

Thank you!