trimacar

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trimacar last won the day on July 20

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About trimacar

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    AACA Member

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Winchester VA.
  • Interests:
    Cajun food, antique cars of course (particularly Pierce Arrow and Pierce memorabilia), American Flyer trains

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  • Biography
    Born and reared in Louisiana, bought my first car at 13 years old, in 1964, a 1931 Chevy Tudor.

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  1. Very difficult to tell what car it might have been on originally, since horns were most often an after-market accessory. The good news is that it was originally painted. That means the black paint was baked on in a low temperature oven, and the brass is much less prone to crack due to that inadvertent heat treatment!
  2. Did your father acquire any of the machinery and tooling from the sale? It's great that someone wants to keep the service going, just wondering what resources he has, hopefully he's able to save the business. The business has helped a lot of people restore old cars over the years, and at this point in time we sure hate to lose resources.....
  3. That's a great story on the Cord! You can turn the lights on without cranking them into the upright position. When I first got my Cord in the mid 1980's, there were three things not correct on the car. Wrong carb and fuel pump, a problem solved with a call to Stan in Wellington Kansas and a reasonable check sent to him. The third problem, someone had converted the car to seal beams. So, for 15 or more years I looked for original headlight buckets, lenses, reflectors.....and they were few and far between, and I always missed getting them. Then, a really nice set of complete assemblies showed up on Ebay. Darned if I was going to let them go, so bid some outrageous number, and came away with them for $800 for the pair. Sounds expensive, but I don't think one could find them now for that......and my car is now correct, albeit with flaking paint and worn upholstery! Lots of slogans and stuff on that SPEEDSTER, a friend has a Stoddard Dayton speed car that he has in race car livery, and he used a special paint that is easily removed....wonder how much of that is special paint or plastic transfers or other removable stuff....still don't understand where it fits in the AACA judging guidelines, and it getting an award makes me think of the "good ole boy" judging I've seen at some local, informal meets...thought the AACA was above that....
  4. Packard Rebuild Input ??

    The contact patch on the road of the tire is dependent on pressure in tire and strength of sidewalls. Based on that, I don't think the "more tread on the ground" with a radial is correct. A radial might be wider, thus contributing to a friction load around the turning point/axis of the radial tire, but the surface contact on the road, in square inches, isn't greater with a radial.
  5. Packard Rebuild Input ??

    Hmmm, that car looks familiar! Compression test will tell you something about top end, should pull the pan off, check a main or two to see condition, as well as a rod or too....visual for cracks and plastigage for clearance.....check clearances and condition of oil pump while pan is off.... if it ran well, then you're just verifying there are no big issues getting ready to bite you....
  6. What are your thoughts on this car?

    My first thought too....it's a timeless design, and "improving" it usually ends up in a downward spiral.......besides that, I think this design has already been done on a Cord hot rod, I remember seeing pictures....
  7. top irons for wooden bodies

    They're usually forgings. The part hidden behind the interior is just thick flat iron. The upper parts, that stick out (two to hold bottom of top bows and two to hold down position top rests, on a runabout), are the parts that need to be forged and shaped. Have any old time blacksmiths around you? It's actually a talent that is being resurrected, my son and I really enjoy watching "Forged in Fire" , seems like a silly show but it's not...
  8. wooden bodies

    That does sound like a good way to proceed. You want some type of ELL bracket at the inside bottom, so those could hold your first sheet in place while you add the other sheets, fasten them with carriage bolts and they get covered by second sheet. Also, if you're going to iron the car for putting a top on it, the time to bolt on irons is after the second sheet, then the third sheet would hide the other carriage bolts. Then, you could either coat the wood with Smith's or West System, or you could skin it with metal. Neat idea!!
  9. wooden bodies

    Are you looking for generic seats, or seats for a specific car? I have a wooden buck for making seats for a Model 20 Hupmobile....5 sheets of 1/8 inch plywood glued together....wooden speedster seats are pretty simple to build.....
  10. Templar Motor Oil can info?

    Templar Motors was located in Cleveland, Ohio. What city and town are stated on can? I'd think if it was related it would state something on the can to that end....neat find, though....
  11. Thanks for clarification. Which one, if any, is the one that had "SPEEDSTER" in big letters across the side? Is that a factory race car, or factory body style? Is it one of the ones that won an award?
  12. I didn't "recommend" Carroll Leather, I was just pointing out to Steve M. that there are distressed leather suppliers out there. Also, my comments were not meant to attack you or the supplier, just pointing out that when you're putting leather into an antique car, there are numerous things to consider. If those hides meet your needs, then fine, and they may well meet the needs of many people, so thank you for sharing the information. I've also seen where people spent a lot of labor to restore an interior, and used inferior leather, or fabric store material, that wasn't suited for the application. I apologize if you think this was a personal "attack", it was not meant that way....
  13. I agree with edinmass, the bar has been raised these days, and cars that are rebuilds, with no provenance, or "custom" cars "rumored" to have been built or owned by the famous.....they're lower in value. If you find an all original car, and you're talking "papers" as in registrations or history, then maybe not a big deal...but the high dollar stuff, early car built from an engine and chassis...that's where you have to be very careful.... https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=jon+voight+seinfeld&view=detail&mid=F0EE1E2E850F23D8FCE8F0EE1E2E850F23D8FCE8&FORM=VIRE
  14. There are many methods for aging, or distressing, leather. A quick Google search will bring up some DIY sites. Also, many companies sell "distressed" leather.....here's just one of them: http://www.carrollleather.com/distressed-leather Finding someone taking some original leather out of a car is always an option, but usually by the time that happens the old leather is so dry and brittle you wouldn't want to use it. There are also a few experts out there who can weather things to look old, from upholstery to paint....but I can't name names on that one! You've probably seen their work, and may or may not have realized it...
  15. The website states 1 mm thick, or 2.5 ounces per square foot. That's a very thin leather. See my response on Mike's other post.