P M Bohlig

Try Steele Rubber in Denver North Carolina Paul

I purchased a complete carbie for my 28 Std 6. It is different from the one you mentioned. I bought it about 4 years ago and it is a beauty! Their US agent is John Bittence, editor of the DBC News. Found the Aussies a pleasure to work with. There is a cheaper alternative in a Series 267 Zenith universal. Offered by the Carburetor Shop Eldon, Mo and by Antique Auto Parts Celler (try Googling: Now and Then) The Zenith will not fool anyone but is rated up to 300 CID engines. Also not cheap but given the fire hazard from a leaky pot metal updraft it is worth a lot of peace and comfort. Paul

Sorry for the typo. Mine is of course a '28 DB Std. There was no '26 DB STD 6. Darned computer

I agree with Clare about Glenn Smith from Australia. Absolutely top drawer. His Us agent is John Bittence, editor of DB Club News. John is at: welshfield@nowonline.net. This stuff is not cheap but in nearly 30 years of infrequent swap met visit I can count on one hand the number of DB carbs which could actually be brought back to life. Other options include using a Series 267 Zenith Univeral Carb. I bought one for my gummed up Stewart brass carbie on a '26 DB std 6. Same engine block as yours. Different carb though. It worked well until I figured out you need to shut off fuel with engine running and let the engine starve and stop when the fuel is out of the carbie to reduce gum up. Google: Antique Auto Parts Celler, South Weymouth, Ma (Then and Now) and The Carburetor Shop, Eldon, Missouri. They have web sites and at one point (circa 1988) sold the above referenced Zenith. Send me your e-mail address at : paulmarg@highstream.net and I will e-mail you a one page review of the zenith. will not fool anyone for show but keeps you on the road Paul

Sorry for the delay in responding. The 3 volume CD has the Dodge Brothers Club News, which is the member magazine which comes out 6 times a year. The cd's cover Dec 1983 through Oct/Nov 2000. There is an index for topics and types of cars. Helpful for finding articles about your vehicle what the original parts looked like, etc. Try the web site: www.dodgebrothersclub.org Good luck on your restoration.

I have a ?28 Std 6 4 dr. Model 140. I will e-mail a couple of photos of my rear bumpers. Looking in the reproduction Master Parts List for this car shows no listing for a front bumper even though they had a front bumper. Lust means that when Chrysler took over they did not carry the front bumper. Page D-1-3 shows a right and left assembly, respectively, and that these rear bumpers were only used on the model 140 and 141. Makes it much tougher to find. Are you a member of the BD Club? Tom and Cindy Myers are collecting and have some parts. Don?t know they have what you need but they are at: myersedp@aol.com Three vendors at Hershey last October dealt in bumpers and guards. Sorry they do not list phone or e-mail just name and city and state: Paul Blasinsky, Carmichaels, PA; Bernard Franks, Baltimore, OH; Roy L Grant, Loranger, LA Good luck Paul

You are at the correct spot to find your DB info. Join the DB Club, buy the 3 pack CD. I am unable to get you detailed info until Jan 1. I have a 28 DB STD 6. Your car has hydraulic brakes and a fuel gauge and other extras. Not sure what you mean by basket case. Baskets with stuff are good Basket car with no baskets of goodies (i.e. parted out) bad Don't give up Where are you? We are west side Minneapolis Minnesota Paul

I need a rack and metering pin for the Stewart (Det. Lub.) updraft carb used on Std and Vic 6 for '27 and '28. These are Series C-28551 or C-29551 stamped on float cover. Who has reproduced these? They are an internal part of the carb and consist of an about 1 & 1/2 rack and a several inch metering pin used for the choke function. Thanks for any leads. Paul

Hi: I have a Stewart Carb D-28851 for a Std 6. The rack is loose on the metering pin. Also 2 half washers were in there. Is the rack supposed to be firmly attached to the metering valve? What do the 2 half washers do? How do you get the rack removed from the metering valve? The top seems to be aluminum with slots for an open end inch plus wrench. The bottom has 4 small indentations whihc seem to be set up for a fixture to hold the bottom while the top is unscrwed? Can you scan the instructions you referenced and e-mail to: paulmarg@highstream.net Thanks

Join the Dodge Brothers Club Purchase the 3 volume CD set of back issues and search for Vacuum tank info. Buy an in line fuel filter from auto supply store to get crud out. This goes before the fuel pump and in the inline regulator. Buy an in line electric fuel pump. (mine is 6 volt pos ground for '28 DB STD 6) Install a electric fuel pump shutoff switch on/off under the dash so you can run the carb dry (e.g. starve for gas) before each shut off of the ignition. Install an in line fuel regulator after the fuel pump. This is mechanical and goes from one half to 6 psi in one half pound increments. Start a 1 psi and observe if carb is over flowing from too much pressure. Mine is set at 1 and one half psi with the Stewart carb Have a good fire extinguisher at hand. No kidding! What carb do you have. The Stewart was used and gets gummed up but good as the metering valve rides on the shaft. Take the carb apart and clean with gasoline and wd-40 after taking lots of pictures at each stage to assist reassembly. Make sure all the bolts are tight at the carb to intake and intake to engine. Make sure timing is set. See reproduction owners' manual. Have a good battery. Make sure you get a good spark with gas off and number one distributor wire held 1\16 to 1\8 inch away from spark plug with starter engaged. If no strong spark maybe bad coil. Lot's of people say the vac tank is great. But is you get tired of stalling every half mile try the above. Good luck

Over the years I have read a bit about gear oils. Early ones used a numbering system which differs from todays'. Such numbers as 600w and so forth. Forget about it. Go to the local auto store and get either 90 or 120 weight gear oil. Drain and recycle the old stuff and refill and top off to top of filler plug. Every year so so top off as some of the gear oil is now on the floor of your garage and along the highway. Don't buy the repacked stuff sold by some vendors who print labels saying original 600w when they repackage 90 or 120w gear oil. Also use in your rear differential Paul

I will take some e-pics and send them directly to you. Paul

Hi: I have a '28 Std 6 4 door sedan. Mine had no leather to begin with. When I had it reupholstered we used a dark green material which matched the original color for seats and door panels. The material is the same as used on school bus seats! I figure it will last nearly forever. Lots less expensive than leather. Doubt leather would be original for the door panels. Too spendy For the pocket insert; do you mean the one in the passenger side door panel which would be used to keep the owenrs' manual, registration, etc? If so, let me know and I can e-mail some pictures and dimensions of mine. Mine was copied from the origianl but the original was then discarded. Paul

Several application on the dodge secure the nut or head of a bolt with a flat washer with 2 opposing tabs. One is bent up against the nut or head of the bolt and the other is bent down against the part. This variation of a lock washer was used on the North East starter to secure the spring and the early u-joints. Anybody have a source for these? If they are no longer available would a spring washer or low profile split lock washer work equally as well?

An another way to ID the '28 would be to look at the current registration from your state motor vehicle licensing dept. Look for a vehicle or engine serial number on the registration. If it begins with: M it is a Victory SIX either model 130 or 131 J is is a Standard SIX either model 140 or 141 IS it is a Senior Six either model 2249 or 2251 S it is a Senior Six model 2252 To buy the correct parts you need to know which specific six you have as the parts do not interchange throughout. Good luck Paul