MrLiken

Mechanic is very knowledgeable. Worked for a restoration shop as head mechanic doing mostly 6 figure show cars. It's me that can't describe the issues correctly. God rest his soul, but that is why I couldn't relate to Rodger "Dodger" because he was an engineer and always described things "over my head". I digress..... Something welded makes it very difficult...IDK.

Thanks Mark. I have purchased the whole set from them before. They are telling me that the cork is correct for my car. My mechanic is telling me that there is an issue getting the fly wheel off and he doesn't want to trust that the cork will keep me from having a leaky rear or clutch case.

Thank you. I wrote Cindy and she referred me to Olsen's gaskets. A discussion with them led me to post this....

ORDERED Hello all, The engine is now completely rebuilt. The mechanic asked me to find the rear main seal. I told him the parts manual calls for a cork gasket. He is not sure how the cork retainer works and is very familiar with the model A and the rope gasket used there. The rope for the A is about 3/8 inch too short. I contacted Olsen's, who told me they sell it by the foot and to buy the 7/16 that can be manipulated. Any suggestions for me?

Great news. Bob Knaak is still doing leather clutch relining in Orange, CA. He is working on restoring my clutch back to original.

Great news for me here. Bob Knaak is still relining and was just out on tour. I was able to reach him by email. Keep all updated on progress.

In one shop and back out after 3 weeks. Took them that long to take the head off. They were in, over their heads. I got it in to a mechanic that worked on her in the past. Actually, he came out to the house with his equipment to grind and cut seats for the valves. On closer exam, he found that there was way too much play in the valves and that the engine needed to be pulled. He has it now and is getting new valves, guides, pistons and rings. Said the bottom half looked pretty good. Did some polishing of the shaft due to old burn marks from who knows how long ago. Will keep you updated.

Hello all, I will update the status of my engine problems back on the original thread, but the engine is out. Years ago, I had the clutch relined locally (San Diego) with Kevlar material. I have to say that during the past few months, the gears have never shifted better. Upon removing the engine, I found that about 1/4 of the Kevlar material had broken off. Maybe that's why it shifted so well?? I am now looking for referrals, to send my cone clutch to for relining with leather. I am told there was a fellow in Orange, CA (Bob Knaak) that did leather relining, but I am unable to reach him. Probably no longer in business. Any suggestions are appreciated.

"Do you still have the hand holes on driver's side of engine? Could have one piece valve cover but probably not?" I don't know what the hand holes look like. I've spent the last hour searching the forum and google images for an early engine, but only finding engines with vacuum tanks and distributors. This is a photo of the drivers' side of engine. Valve cover is 2 piece.

<<After all scratches have been removed and the surface of the metal highly polished, the etching process is started. The best etching solution for steel is 50 % hydrochloric acid with 5 gins. of cupric ammonium chloride added for each 100 ml. of solution. The etching solution may be applied with a cotton swab attached to a glass rod or a wooden stick. The etching will be speeded up, and better definition will be obtained, if an electric current is permitted to flow through the etching fluid.>> We did not see CAR in front. There appeared to be "stamp plates" holder marks that were identical on either end of the numbers. This is one reason why I am hoping someone can post photos of there findings. >> from: https://scholarlycommons.law.northwestern.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=4630&context=jclc

Does anyone have a photo of the serial # on the frame cross-member, that they can post? When I stripped mine down, I had the auto theft detectives stop by and help me raise the numbers (using a battery charger for current). Would love to see some examples from early models.

250 miles? That will take me another 20 years! Thanks. It is now in the shop getting torn down. Can't wait to see what else they find...

Thank you Bloo and Doug! Taking it by a shop in an hour. Keep you updated. Have a great weekend. John

Thank you all. On to looking for a shop to do the work. The engine was rebuilt, 20 something years ago and apparently has about 100 very rough miles on it. I appreciate all of the advice!!

These are from early June, when I replaced the head gasket and set my timing.