Restorer32

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Restorer32 last won the day on February 21

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About Restorer32

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    AACA Member

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    http://PennDutchRestoration.com

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  • Location:
    South Central PA
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    Professional Restorer since 1979. AACA Senior Master Judge.
  1. I was a poverty stricken college student in '66 or so driving an older MGB. The car had been hit it the rear and water could easily leak into the trunk. Being a long time British car driver I was all too familiar with having to tap on the underbody mounted electric fuel pump every now and then to keep it running. On this occasion in question tapping on the pump didn't help. Next morning I removed the pump in 14 degree weather. The electrical end of those Lucas pumps had a vent that consisted of a plastic hose that went thru the trunk floor. I took the sealed top off the pump. Turned out that the points in the pump had acted like a miniature pump and had pulled in silt from the trunk, silt that had accumulated there due to the crash damage to the trunk lid, The silt was packed in the pump so solidly that the points could no longer move. It could barely be dug out with a screw driver. I removed the silt, cleaned up the points, rerouted the vent and away I went.
  2. We had a half moon shaped trim piece for a '58 or '59 Cadillac, I forget which. The piece was maybe 3" by 12" and the curve in it had flattened out maybe 2 inches. We took a good example and traced the outline on poster board. We then placed bar clamps across the misshapen piece and snugged them up. Using a heat gun we heated the diecast until it was just too hot to touch then snugged up the clamps another 1/8" or so. Twice a day we heated and tightened. Took about a week but we were able to bring the piece back into shape without even damaging the new chrome. In fact our chrome plater told us the trick. I was amazed it worked.
  3. Bill must be well into his 80's by now. Just bought leather from his company last week
  4. Ask us sometime how we bend die cast.
  5. It won't be as difficult as you think. Try it cold first.
  6. Having restored 2 of these I can tell you the blue one scares me. The simple fact that the dash never had the Dynok applied tells me it was "restored" in an attempt to sell it quickly. Beware!
  7. And she is not intentionally trying to be funny. The other night she wanted something done at home. I asked her to grab an adjustable wrench from my tool box. She came back with a ratchet and socket. I love her to death but she will never be a mechanic.
  8. Or as my wife refers to them, "plus or minus screws"
  9. Expect to spend $1000+ to have them done as original.
  10. No idea. I suspect a long, long time.
  11. Engine was frozen up due to a crack thru the water jacket in a different cylinder. Yes, one of those big Strombergs.
  12. That is the only crack we found so far. Engine was seized up because #5 cylinder had this crack and water had rusted the rings to the cylinder walls. First thing we will do is have the jugs cooked out and magnafluxed. Surprisingly the bearings are all within spec. Look at my other post to see the half a butterfly from the carb that was sucked up thru the manifold and wedged under a valve.
  13. Half a butterfly valve from the carb wedged under a valve. Can't imagine how that thing got sucked up thru the manifold and into the runner of the jug on a 1915 ALF engine.
  14. Beautiful high dollar cars but very expensive to restore. I think our chrome plater sent his daughter thru college on the cost of the chrome for the one we restored.
  15. Here you go.