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About poci1957

  • Rank
    AACA Member

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Decatur IL
  • Interests:
    Comet & Pan American Decatur IL Assembled Cars
    1957 Pontiac


  • Biography
    Graduate of McPherson College Auto Restotation 1987

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  1. Advice for an open touring car 1929-1934?

    Forgive my saying it but this car would........ahem.........take some getting used to, Todd C
  2. New guy, old car

    Deac's advice above is all spot on. Carbking here in our group is www.thecarburetorshop.com and he will steer you right and probably has the kit you need too, Todd C
  3. New guy, old car

    Well you have the right attitude talking like that, very good. Flathead Pontiacs were made for over 20 years and are well engineered and serviceable, but odds are local mechanics will not have a clue. Mechanical parts are available and not that expensive, they are just not available on the shelf at Autozone. Even 1950s Hydramatic parts are readily available by mail order. The driving experience is more leisurely than we are used to today but that is part of the charm. You should take a look at joining POCI (Pontiac Oakland Club Intl at www.poci.org ) and that will give you access to technical advisors like my friend and the Early Times Chapter mentioned by Bloo. Good luck, Todd C PS--one other parts tip. Your friends will assume that lots of Chevy parts must be interchangeable because that is usually the case in the 1960s and later. Your body shell is partly shared with Chevy and the roof, glass, doors and most related trim and weather stripping are the same. BUT the frame, floors, suspension & brakes and pretty much everything from the firewall forward is unique to Pontiac so stick with www.pontiacparts.net to deal with people who know.
  4. You are a man of taste, a Cyclone is one of my favorite cars that I have never owned but admired from afar. A 1969 in orange or Cale Yarborough trim would be my choice with a 1971 Cyclone Spoiler a close second.
  5. 8E45E correct that in the late 1970s-early 1980s distinctive 1960s cars and musclecars were on the radar, just less among prewar old timer "collectors" than interested 30-somethings and younger. In 1980-82 it was indeed understood among car guys that pre-1973 cars were the ones to get, meaning that muscle cars were only 10-15 years old at the time and already getting early collector interest, although not big dollar interest. 1950s cars were coming on; in 1975-77 two seat Thunderbirds and Tri Five Chevies were just 20 years old and already had books, clubs and nostalgia devoted to them. As early as 1972 Motor Trend featured a retrospective on the first 1955 Thunderbird being saved and restored. HOWEVER you ask about condition and my experience is that cars deteriorated much faster then. With a little care they COULD have been maintained in perfect shape but they weren't, at least here in the rust belt. Most cars usually had some visible rust after 5 years. Pickups, Japanese imports and small domestics often had severe rust at 5-8 years old. At 10-12 years old the muscle cars I was looking at were rusty and rough, often missing engines and other parts. Apparently circa 1982 there were some nice preserved 1968-71 muscle cars somewhere but not where I lived. My brother had an 1970 Javelin in 1983 and the cheap vinyl interior had disintegrated to shreds years before. A teacher brought his 1973 Gremlin into the auto shop in 1984 for door adjustment; the hinge pillar was rusting away. My parents bought a new 1979 Grand Prix and by 1982 the plastic interior chrome had peeled off and the doors and T tops rattled; there was visible rust by 1983-84 and in 1987 it was traded in for a pittance as junk.
  6. Kingpin retainer pin

    I sympathize and have been there. Apparently in the 1950s & 60s Pontiac service manuals assumed the dealer mechanic had experience with previous Pontiacs (since lots of systems were similar for long runs I guess) and they can leave a guy frustrated with sparse details like that. As a backup I have bought a few Motors manuals written for general service station mechanics that can sometimes supplement the directions a little, Todd C
  7. New guy, old car

    Virtually any "car guy" friend you have and everyone on the HAMB will tell you that. They will tell you the only answer to this project is to scrap the whole front of the car and install a Chevy 350 since that is all they know. They have never seen a straight eight or any other authentic part and cannot be bothered to learn anything about them, they only want to cut and "build" (whether they are capable or not). If you don't have them you should immediately buy a 1954 Pontiac factory service manual and owners manual, photos below. You should be able to get both for under $40. Go to www.pontiacparts.net and get their free catalog, this is a parts house specifically devoted to Pontiacs of the 1950s and earlier with good service and fair prices, they may have the manuals too. My friend is the technical advisor to the Pontiac club for 1949-52 (the same car) and if you politely introduce yourself at www.50scars@frontier.com with any questions he will help you (he is retired and helpful with advice). Good luck, Todd C
  8. High heat primer or regular primer

    I used PPG DP40 epoxy primer on my (carefully cleaned and prepped) 1957 engine. After almost 20 years of sitting and occasional use it is in good condition except for the exhaust passages on the heads burning off as all Pontiac V8s do. The DP primers are expensive but they stick and have excellent rust resistance, I was more confident in that than any high heat claim on a lacquer type in a spray can. Good luck with yours, Todd C
  9. I can't speak personally to 1975 but I can reference 1980-82. Prewar cars were the focus of most hobby attention, especially among those 55-60 and older (WWII generation). 1950s and 1960s cars were drawing interest among those 40 something and younger. The old timers scoffed at 20 year old 1960s "used" cars but were accepting of 25+ year old 1950s cars. Matt Harwood recalls that there were more younger hobbyists with families and that is my recollection too, that blue collar middle class 30-50 year olds were plentiful in the hobby then. Regarding condition, prewar cars were mostly already snapped up and gone, if you (rarely) found one outside under a tree it was usually an incomplete rotting hulk not worth restoring. 1950s cars could still be found in alleys and backyards for $100-$500 in rough condition and running for $1000-$1500. My dad bought a presentable red 1955 Thunderbird driver with a mediocre amateur restoration for $6000 or so and a solid drivable 1957 needing a paint job for less than that (a good deal at the time). He bought a solid rust free 1955 Crown Vic, a 1954 Mercury hardtop and a 1959 Thunderbird convertible (with amateur rust repair) all running for $1500 each or so. At this time a good body shop paint job on a solid car would have cost $1000-$1500 or less and chrome on a 1950s car would have been $2000-$3000 depending. Good times, Todd C
  10. Chrome questions

    I used them too and was very satisfied--still looks fantastic after 15 years, everything fit right, all the holes were in the right place, etc. These are experienced old car people (active AACA members) and will not give you something like Matt Harwood's Packard hood ornament above and then play dumb about the quality. They were not fast but that was OK with me, Todd C
  11. How long have you been restoring your car?

    Good for you, I have found that is the best way to enjoy your old car if you are so fortunate
  12. How long have you been restoring your car?

    Hey Joe, that wagon will be spectacular, great color too!
  13. Parts availability 1950's Buick vs. Oldsmobile

    Looks great Stefan and sounds like things are going well so far, enjoy!
  14. Wayne, do we think all engines were built in Detroit and shipped to the branches?
  15. Torque Wrench history

    That is how I check mine from time to time.