21raceabout

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About 21raceabout

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  1. 1915 C-25 Camshaft Removal

    I got the cam shaft out today. The front cam bearing has to come out with the cam shaft so it is a matter of getting that bronze plain bearing out of the aluminum crankcase. In this case the two parts have been in close contact for the last 102 years. I used a torch to heat the aluminum around the bearing and found that it took repeated heating cycles with some measured tapping on the base of the nearest cam lobes with a hardwood drift (went through several) to get it apart. I suspect I was fighting that fact that although aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than bronze, it also has a higher rate of thermal conduction such that the aluminum dissipates the heat faster than the bronze requiring quick action each time the heat was removed. It all worked out in the end with nothing broken or damaged. Thanks to those who responded.
  2. 1915 C-25 Camshaft Removal

    Thanks Mark, we will give that a try
  3. 7th Annual Mercer Associates Meeting

    Not from the Associates meeting but we got to see Mr. Lucas' freshly restored L-head Raceabout and Fred's "old reliable" at the show...
  4. 1915 C-25 Camshaft Removal

    Larry - Yes, all the lifters are out. At this point the cam is the only thing left in the crankcase. I assume the front and middle bearings will come out with the cam...any recommended place to tap with a (hardwood) drift...locally heat the crankcase first?
  5. Recently picked up this nice Buick radiator (with the cloisonne emblem) to replace the original one on our car as our shell is perforated with rust. The "new-to-us" one was sold as a C-24/-25 but has mount brackets on the sides of the shell that don't appear on the original. The original has threaded studs on the bottom, consistent with 1915 parts book. There are also differences in the rod junction details at the top and differences in the lower water exit casting. I would also invite comments on the difference is radiator core itself. Thinking I might have a radiator shop remove the good shell so we can weld up the holes from side mounts and swap the details on the back side of the radiator unless someone has a better idea... Thanks!
  6. 1915 C-25 Camshaft Removal

    Any tips on removing the camshaft out of a 1915 Buick C-24/-25 engine? Have removed all the common flat screwdriver type set screws in the vicinity of the cam bearings and tried some gentle nudging on the back of the timing gear to no avail. I assume camshaft must come out the front. Is it necessary to remove the bronze cap at the rear (how?) in order to tap on the back of the cam (along with middle and front bearings) out of the crankcase? Oil pump has been removed already. Thanks!
  7. 1915 c-25 chassis serial number

    Thanks all for your replies. I wasn't clear in my original post that I was indeed aware that the frame S/N was stamped into an aluminum oval plate on the left frame rail next to the radiator. However, my aluminum plate is completely corroded away on our car - just the two rivets and some grey residue under the heads is all that is left of it. I would appreciate if someone would be willing to post or send me a picture or tracing of what an original plate looked like with some dimensions. It is not my intent to copy anyone else's serial number, rather I agree with cxgd that it would be appropriate to use the engine S/N to register the car (and stamp into a new aluminum plate) once we get it back on the road. Thanks again.
  8. 1915 c-25 chassis serial number

    Wondering if the number stamped into the right side of front axle could be the chassis serial number? It does not match the part number. The aluminum tag near the radiator on our car is corroded away so I can't compare to the number on the axle. Also, if anyone could post a picture and dimensions of the appropriate, intact aluminum tag I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
  9. 1916/1917 LIGHT SIX VALVE CAGE SEALING RINGS

    Hi Terry - We got to work on the cages today and they just about fell out. Only needed the puller to make sure they came out straight. No problems at all. The bore in the block is 1.690", the diameter of cage is 1.685" (based on measuring one). It was interesting to speculate why the last mechanic mixed up the valves and cages despite the punch markings being quite visible. Also got our first look down into the cylinders and was heartened to see that they look spotless, no signs of rust. Rick
  10. 1920 Mercer Sporting... 6 owners since new, all within 75 miles of Boston, currently in southern Maine. Original interior, one re-paint around 1940. Enjoyed regularly on the back roads.
  11. 1916/1917 LIGHT SIX VALVE CAGE SEALING RINGS

    Hi Terry - I have not attempted to remove any of the cages yet, have been letting them steep in ATF and acetone based on advice to proceed with caution. I'll try to tug one out this weekend. Thanks Rick
  12. 1916/1917 LIGHT SIX VALVE CAGE SEALING RINGS

    Hi Terry - Back to work on our Buick after a business trip. We got the valve cage nuts and sealing rings out. The sealing rings measured 1.692 - 1.700" OD, 1.481 - 1.500" ID and 0.123 - 0.127" thick. Is this close to your light six? Thanks Rick
  13. 7th Annual Mercer Associates Meeting

    The 7th annual Mercer Associates meeting will take place at Hershey on Thursday, October 5th, 3pm at the west end of the Coker Tire tent. As in the past, the meeting is a gathering for owners of Mercer automobiles and honorary members of the Mercer Associates. Looking forward to catching up with all of you on the news from the past year.
  14. 1916/1917 LIGHT SIX VALVE CAGE SEALING RINGS

    Terry - We got the valve cage nuts out but need to make/modify a puller to get the cages themselves out. Bit of a delay this weekend as priority was getting wheels cleaned up and prepped to drop off with Mr. Calimer at Hershey. Rick
  15. 1916/1917 LIGHT SIX VALVE CAGE SEALING RINGS

    Hi Terry - A slightly better photo with the cobwebs and other items out of the way...