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Everything posted by Bhigdog

  1. Bhigdog

    Change brake fluid from DOT 3 to DOT 5

    DOT 3 collects water and fosters corrosion and sludge. DOT 5 does not. DOT 3 is a very effective paint stripper. DOT 5 is not DOT 3 does not hold small bubbles makes bleeding easy DOT 5 does so bleeding takes more effort DOT 5 has been in my 69 Corvette since 1990 with no change/leakage/corrosion. DOT 3 originally in since it was new caused leaking, corrosion, severely pitted calipers. It's your choice..............Bob
  2. Bhigdog

    Winter Buicks

  3. Bhigdog

    Winter Buicks

    About 6" fcst for NE PA tomorrow along with some freezing rain. Sure to be a mess. Glad i brought in some extra wood and wine.....bob
  4. Bhigdog

    taper angle on Chrysler product rear axles

    Put the axle in a lathe with a center in the tail stock. Indicate the axle taper so its running true. Indicate one inch of the taper to get the thousands per inch taper. Use simple trig to arrive at the angle in degrees. Should be dead nuts accurate.....bob
  5. Bhigdog

    ALSA Chrome Paint

    I think these are the same folks that sell those pills you drop into your gas tank to cure oil burning and burned valves........bob
  6. Bhigdog

    Ring Gear RIvets

    Twer it me I would use high strength shoulder screws. Much tighter tolerance on the un threaded shoulder portion for less axial slippage. See McMaster-Carr......Bob
  7. Bhigdog

    Windshield Scratch Repair

    Below is a post I contributed in 2010 on polishing my 1956 Chrysler wind shield. It should still be true today..........Bob If the scratches will "catch" your finger nail the glass is toast. If your finger nail will slide over the wiper marks they are, with patience, repairable. Below is a post I submitted in 2010 detailing how I successfully removed wiper marks from my 56 Chrysler wind shield. I will add that this will not remove the micro pits that every windshield picks up over time but will restore your glass to quite usable condition...................Bob In the interest of sharing knowledge............ I'm finally getting around to installing the glass in the 56 Chrysler. I've been fretting about the windshield and the wiper marks in it for two years now. The "marks" were not quite deep enough to actually "catch" a finger nail but they definately could be felt. Imported repro glass is available for about $650 without a date code. I'd heard both pro's and cons about polishing out the scratches. I'd heard that it can't be done, that it would cause distortion because it would leave a shallow hollow where the groove was or heat build up would crack the glass. Being both a frugal type and having nothing to lose I figured I'd give it a try. First I needed a polishing "kit". I looked at ready made kits and saw they were nothing more than a hard felt pad and some cerium oxide polishing compound. So instead of p**sing away $75 bucks on a kit, I cut down an old backing disc from my DA sander to 3 1/2" diameter and epoxied a 3/8" thick pad of hard felt on the bottom. My local glass shop sold me a baby food jar of cerium oxide for $5. So now I had my kit. The kit sellers say to chuck their pad in a drill to polish out the scratches. I figured that was the cause of the distortion problem. Folks were using the pad like a disc sander and concentrating on the scratches. To get around that I mounted my pad on my DA sander and used it only on the orbital mode. Also, instead of concentrating on the scratches I evenly buffed the glass and only gave the scratches a bit of extra buff time. I'd also heard that the glass could crack from heat build up. Not true. I mixed the cerium oxide with water to make a loose paste. Wet the pad, spread a bit of paste, and started buffing VERY slowly and lightly. As long as everything is wet there in no heat build up. I kept a spritz bottle of water close by and just kept spritzing, buffing, pasting, spritzing buffing and checking. In about an hour all traces of the scratches were gone, there was no distortion, and I'd saved almost enough to pay for the new tires for the 56 that I need to order. The whole project took a morning to do including making the polishing pad. If you decide to try this here's few hints. The hard felt is available from McMaster-Carr by the square foot. Or, I have have enough left over to cut a disc for someone or two or three. Keep the glass wet and keep the orbital speed about mid way. Draw a line under the scratches, with a magic marker, on the back side of the glass. That way you can find them and you only have to wipe a small area clean to check your progress. Do not let the pad get dry. It will pack dryed oxide into the micro pits that are in every used windshield and you will spend an hour with soapy water and a tooth brush getting it out. Do not ask how I know this last bit...............Bob Edited April 18, 2010 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 1 EmTee reacted to
  8. Nah. It's a Buick customized with Mercury and Plymouth parts. The Venti-Ports give it away................Bob
  9. Bhigdog

    early motorcycles.................

    A clone by definition is identical. The reproductions are merely imitations. What's the difference? Going out with a beautiful women or a blow up doll may yield the same conclusion but there will certainly be a difference..............Bob
  10. Bhigdog

    how do you work under your cars ?

    You,re correct about falling. When i built it i made a recessed edge and cut 2 x 8s to fit so it,s covered. One thing i thought about is the remote chance of fire while working on a car. A pit is usually not the quickest thing to get out of.....bob
  11. Bhigdog

    how do you work under your cars ?

    I actually have one in one of my garage bays. It's OK but like every thing else there's good and bad. I haven't used it since I got my 2 post lift and likely never will. Likely the safest option of them all.........Bob
  12. Bhigdog

    Allentown Swap

    It's worth maybe an hour drive if you're bored s**tless and need some Chinese tools. Otherwise not so much....................Bob
  13. Bhigdog

    how do you work under your cars ?

    Two post lift now but previously used 4 heavy duty jack stands on a solid level concrete floor. Nothing less. Ever........ bob
  14. Understand the folks here are hard wired towards emotional involvement with old cars rather than a more pragmatic involvement ( not that there's anything wrong with that ). If you feel an attraction to the car and have the time and resources that owning an old car involves then by all means keep it. A good approach would be to fix the mechanicals to make sure it is safe (pay attention to the age of the tires rather than only the tread depth) , clean and detail it, then use it for a year. By then you should know if you wish to continue with it or if it's more trouble than it's worth. In any event you will be in a good position to either sell or keep it............Bob
  15. Bhigdog

    Damage to my 48 Lincoln

    The only thing I wonder about is that the damage looks like it was done a loooong time ago. Can't believe it was a shock to anyone when it came to light........Bob
  16. Bhigdog

    Winter Buicks

    Here's one of our dogs................. He's "Special"................Bob
  17. Tool J-5537 is the shop manual approved method of spring removal. I made one and it works well. Inserting spacers from nails to dowels to flat shims works just as well but is a bit more time consuming. Only so many ways to skin this cat so do whatever tickles your fancy..........Bob
  18. Your shims should work, David. Originally I made a spring removal tool that worked well enough for the 55. For later projects I just stuffed the open coils with a bunch of nails. Actually worked better than the tool. I painted my springs by hanging them with a 100# tractor wheel weight to spread the coils. After painting I inserted the nails and removed the weight. Attached the hood and removed the nails. Easy as pie. Do get a helper to handle the hood though..............Bob
  19. Thanks Walt. How about field lay out? Would you rather buy one larger space rather than several small ones? Would you pay higher rent for a better location? What percent higher? Would you be willing to take a less desireable location for a discounted fee? Should commercial vendors pay more? Less? How about space location, aisle size, grouping of like vendors, numbering system, cost structure as it relates to space size, non vendor vehicle parking, pseudo-vendor vehicle parking, since an admission fee of the cost of a cheese steak ($8) would gross the club $2,000,000/year should there be an admission charge for non vendors? how about a food price cap, location of porta-potties, cleanliness of porta-potties, golf carts for able bodied, and on and on and on. Any opinion on any of the above? Anyone else?.......... Just asking...........................Bob
  20. Bhigdog

    #12-28 Bolts

    A no brainer....................Bob
  21. Shims will work as described. Two people will make removal easy peasy. What I do is drill two 1/8" holes through the hinge base into the body. When I remount the hinges I use a piece of 1/8 welding rod through the holes to locate the hinges. Gets them right back where they were and saves a lot of re-rigging the hood................Bob
  22. The point of this conversation is to address YOUR concerns and make the field layout and space allocation BETTER and more efficient both for YOU and your CUSTOMERS. What could be changed to improve Hershey for both you and your customers? The question is being asked. Do you have some constructive ideas? ...............Bob
  23. Bhigdog

    Help with Clum light switch

    Garolite is a trade name for the material circuit boards are made from. G-9 Garolite is the stiffest. Use a material 1/8" thick and mill slots 1/16" deep for the tabs to fold into. Problem solved..................Bob
  24. Lots of interesting suggestions above that are certainly worth exploring and discussion. Interested folks might want to copy them before they disappear down the deletion black hole. My guess is little will get done other than a bit of hand wringing, followed by denial, then "it would never work" and finally the CLASSIC " We've always done it this way". And so the AACA Titanic blithely sails into the waiting night.......................Bob
  25. I just looked at the field maps with the vendor space grids. It appears to me that the available area is laid out with identical sized spaces in a more or less "if it fits put it here" manner. In that case vendors buy whatever adjoining spaces they can for thier needs. If that's the case the vendors, rather than the controlling entity, are actually chopping up the show field with out a master plan. That's why some rows are empty or have campers. Some head to head, some side by side, some catty corner. Wouldn't it make more sense to have an idea of the total area required for the different kinds of vendors, and their needs, and have different sized and located spaces for rent. The guys with the land barge campers would have a general area, the pick up campers another, day traders another etc etc. and all would have adequate vending area for their "stuff". The smaller vendors would all have a vending area with a parking area directly behind it. All parking would face each other across an open aisle as would the sales area. That way a buyer would look down each aisle and he would see alternate aisles of sales items or parked vehicles. It would half the wasted walking and make the whole operation more efficient and certainly more user friendly for both buyers and sellers. Surveys would need to taken, budgets generated and funds allocated, numbers and spread sheets generated, cost benefit analysis performed, computer plans run etc etc etc. There would be bitching and complaining that would need to be assuaged. The above would be true of any master plan to advance the Hershey show and it likely should be done in stages with necessary tweaks made as required. The above is just a quick grab at an idea to make the show more appealing to more people. Certainly there are other and likely better ideas. Where are they? Cat got everyone's tongue? Time for planning and action. The alternative is to let nature and evolution run it's course unimpeded. Ask the dinosaurs how that worked out.............Bob