Bhigdog

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Bhigdog last won the day on July 28 2016

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About Bhigdog

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    Grand High Exalted Mystic Ruler
  • Birthday 01/06/1940

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Eastern, PA
  • Interests:
    anything mechanical. I like moving parts

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  1. Always best to start with the least abrasive (chrome polish) and use harsher only if you must......................Bob
  2. First of all if the scratches will "catch" your finger nail the glass is toast. If your finger nail will slide over the wiper marks they are, with patience, repairable. Below is a post I submitted in 2010 detailing how I successfully removed wiper marks from my 56 Chrysler wind shield. I will add that this will not remove the micro pits that every windshield picks up over time but will restore your glass to quite usable condition...................Bob In the interest of sharing knowledge............ I'm finally getting around to installing the glass in the 56 Chrysler. I've been fretting about the windshield and the wiper marks in it for two years now. The "marks" were not quite deep enough to actually "catch" a finger nail but they definately could be felt. Imported Repro glass is available for about $650 without a date code. I'd heard both pro's and cons about polishing out the scratches. I'd heard that it can't be done or that it would cause distortion because it would leave a shallow hollow where the groove was. Being both a frugal type and having nothing to lose I figured I'd give it a try. First I needed a polishing "kit". I looked at ready made kits and saw they were nothing more than a hard felt pad and some cerium oxide polishing compound. So instead of p**sing away $75 bucks on a kit, I cut down an old backing disc from my DA sander to 3 1/2" diameter and epoxied a 3/8" thick pad of hard felt on the bottom. My local glass shop sold me a baby food jar of cerium oxide for $5. So now I had my kit. The kit sellers say to chuck their pad in a drill to polish out the scratches. I figured that was the cause of the distortion problem. Folks were using the pad like a disc sander and concentrating on the scratches. To get around that I mounted my pad on my DA sander and used it only on the orbital mode. Also, instead of concentrating on the scratches I evenly buffed the glass and only gave the scratches a bit of extra buff time. I'd also heard that the glass could crack from heat build up. Not true. I mixed the cerium oxide with water to make a loose paste. Wet the pad, spread a bit of paste, and started buffing VERY slowly and lightly. As long as everything is wet there in no heat build up. I kept a spritz bottle of water close by and just kept spritzing, buffing, pasting, spritzing buffing and checking. In about an hour all traces of the scratches were gone, there was no distortion, and I'd saved almost enough to pay for the new tires for the 56 that I need to order. If you decide to try this here's few hints. The hard felt is available from McMaster-Carr by the square foot. Or, I have have enough left over to cut a disc for someone or two or three. Keep the glass wet and keep the orbital speed about mid way. Draw a line under the scratches with a magic marker on the back side of the glass. That way you can find them and you only have to wipe a small area clean to check your progress. Do not let the pad get dry. It will pack dryed oxide into the micro pits that are in every used windshield and you will spend an hour with soapy water and a tooth brush getting it out. Do not ask how I know this last bit...............Bob Edited April 18, 2010 by Bhigdog (see edit history)
  3. ACHTUNG! Schtraying frum der rules ist verboten. If dat vas allowed derr members vould be sprecking abut tings dat did not conform to der edicts dat der commandant hass derected. Soon der troops will be enchoying demselves. Dis vill not be permitted. Remember. Ve haf vays uf dealing mit you..........Herr Beck
  4. BOOOORRRRING!...................Bob
  5. First of all if the scratches will "catch" your finger nail the glass is toast. If your finger nail will slide over the wiper marks they are, with patience, repairable. Below is a post I submitted in 2010 detailing how I successfully removed wiper marks from my 56 Chrysler wind shield. I will add that this will not remove the micro pits that every windshield picks up over time but will restore your glass to quite usable condition...................Bob In the interest of sharing knowledge............ I'm finally getting around to installing the glass in the 56 Chrysler. I've been fretting about the windshield and the wiper marks in it for two years now. The "marks" were not quite deep enough to actually "catch" a finger nail but they definately could be felt. Imported Repro glass is available for about $650 without a date code. I'd heard both pro's and cons about polishing out the scratches. I'd heard that it can't be done or that it would cause distortion because it would leave a shallow hollow where the groove was. Being both a frugal type and having nothing to lose I figured I'd give it a try. First I needed a polishing "kit". I looked at ready made kits and saw they were nothing more than a hard felt pad and some cerium oxide polishing compound. So instead of p**sing away $75 bucks on a kit, I cut down an old backing disc from my DA sander to 3 1/2" diameter and epoxied a 3/8" thick pad of hard felt on the bottom. My local glass shop sold me a baby food jar of cerium oxide for $5. So now I had my kit. The kit sellers say to chuck their pad in a drill to polish out the scratches. I figured that was the cause of the distortion problem. Folks were using the pad like a disc sander and concentrating on the scratches. To get around that I mounted my pad on my DA sander and used it only on the orbital mode. Also, instead of concentrating on the scratches I evenly buffed the glass and only gave the scratches a bit of extra buff time. I'd also heard that the glass could crack from heat build up. Not true. I mixed the cerium oxide with water to make a loose paste. Wet the pad, spread a bit of paste, and started buffing VERY slowly and lightly. As long as everything is wet there in no heat build up. I kept a spritz bottle of water close by and just kept spritzing, buffing, pasting, spritzing buffing and checking. In about an hour all traces of the scratches were gone, there was no distortion, and I'd saved almost enough to pay for the new tires for the 56 that I need to order. If you decide to try this here's few hints. The hard felt is available from McMaster-Carr by the square foot. Or, I have have enough left over to cut a disc for someone or two or three. Keep the glass wet and keep the orbital speed about mid way. Draw a line under the scratches with a magic marker on the back side of the glass. That way you can find them and you only have to wipe a small area clean to check your progress. Do not let the pad get dry. It will pack dryed oxide into the micro pits that are in every used windshield and you will spend an hour with soapy water and a tooth brush getting it out. Do not ask how I know this last bit...............Bob Edited April 18, 2010 by Bhigdog (see edit history) Quote Edit Hide all signatures Bob Beck 39 Chev PU 69 big
  6. Things certainly are different. I remember as a kid around we used to occasionally drive from NJ to Western PA to visit with relatives. This was considered a major road trip. Tires were checked, extra spares and tool box loaded, fresh oil and grease jobs, lunches packed, money carefully split up or hidden, faces washed and nice clothes donned. It was an all day affair on mostly two lane roads through lots of towns. Now I just jump in the car and go with out a second thought. A drive to Florida entails no more than a quick oil and tire pressure check. Neither seldom needs any addition...............Bob
  7. The REAL challenge was likely those greasy fries......................Bob.
  8. Good, glad they arrived OK. They're made to print so hopefully should be fine. .................Bob
  9. Expect a call from PETA. Either that or some guys in white suits..................Bob
  10. Your top hydraulic system is 53 years old. Seals are hardened, hoses likely getting age cracks, DOT 3 fluid has been gathering moisture and the reservoir is no doubt full of gunk. Twer it me I would pull the cylinders and look closely for leakage and rust on the cylinder rods. If any is found I'd s**t can them. The hoses I would replace. Period. The pump I would pull and remove/clean the reservoir can. If reusing the cylinders I would purge them with alcohol. Also purge the pump. Then I would refill with ATF and sleep well knowing I wasn't going to blow a hose or seal and spray DOT 3 paint remover. But that's just me.................Bob
  11. Nope. they're just big conveyor belts. Feed in one end, poop out the other. At least it's solid and easy to fork into the spreader. OTOH, watching them frolic or just plain graze in the pasture is a work of art. We don't ride anymore so my wife's are just "lawn ornaments". ..............Bob
  12. Yo Roger. Freezing drizzle here so a good day to play in the shop. Came out real nice. They should be in the mail Monday. I'll need your address. You can use Email for that.......Bob
  13. Yup, horse s**t. The wife has three of the critters. She takes care of the daily chores with them and loads the spreader. My part of the deal is to spread the manure, maintain the fences, and of course pay for everything...........Bob
  14. Still digging out a bit here. Had to dig out the manure spreader and empty it in one of the fields. Had to shovel in front of the garage to get my Kawasaki Mule out so I could see how it went in the snow. Got it stuck and pulled it out with the tractor. Used the dogs to help blaze a path to the bird feeders to refill them. Ate lunch and took a nap. Another really great day............Bob
  15. So when I ship these doohickeys and the post office guy asks about contents I'm tempted to say "nipple glands"..............Bob