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About mpneroz

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  1. I pulled this from a 4 door straight 6 Buick that I came across. The center button is in excellent condition for a plastic part this old. It has great color and looked nice in the car. Asking $25 for a real nice used part that somebody has to need. I also have a complete 6 cylinder head with valve cover pulled from the same car.
  2. 1966 Buick Wildcat 2 door coupe parting out

    How is the rear bumper? Looking for one.
  3. I have for sale a really nice plastic steering center button pulled from an early 60's Buick. It looked great in that car. The plastic is clear, colors in the emblem are nice and it is not cracked. Car was in the woods under a canopy of trees closed up which protected it from the rain, sun and snow. It is not perfect but this is probably as nice an emblem as you could reasonably expect non NOS for a car this old. I am asking $35 and will ship USPS in a padded envelope. This includes shipping. I have already sold stainless and engine bay parts from the car and I am shortly going to list the head with springs, valves/springs and shaft from the straight 6 engine.
  4. Looking for 75 - 78 Plymouth Fury 2 door parts

    I decided to pass on this car because of limited parts availability and the fact that it was a little "too crispy" in places. It would have needed doors, a trunklid and a pair of quarters. Interior was nice but the body work necessary to do this combined with the parts it needed worked against it.
  5. Beautiful instrument cluster with nice chrome for early 60's Comet. I pulled it from a 2 door sedan and was amazed at the condition. Not NOS but as damn close to it as a 54 year old junk yard part can be. Face clear, chrome is nice, all plugs and even the bulbs are in it. Back of the cluster is not rusty at all. Have not had much luck selling on this forum in the past so I put it on Ebay at a very low starting price. I would end the listing for someone who made me a fair offer, don't particularly like Ebay. I hope someone can use it. I wish I could find stuff this nice for my cars. Obviously it was not tested but how do you find stuff like this any more? A true testament to the quality of the chrome process they used. Mike
  6. Have the opportunity to pick up a 75 Fury based Roadrunner very reasonably. While it is not a high dollar collectible it is unique for sure. It runs and drives but the car needs sheet metal. It has enough to consider picking it up but needs better quarters possibly doors. It would not be worth the labor hours to have the quarters pieced together and I don't think the end result would be very good if I went that route. Floors are good and the frame is solid trunk floor needs a couple of patches. The car is a 360 auto on the floor with a nice black interior but parts are an issue. I found one locally but the car was rusted to heck and useless other than minor stuff. Anybody have anything or know of one? Mike
  7. What size radiator for 1966 Wildcat w/401

    There were some very good radiator shops in my area when I was younger. Those guys were really good. They closed, stopped rebuilding for the most part or just became a place to go to get a new radiator installed. When you look on line, the curse is " also fits whatever model" and they seem to be one size fits all and that is really true. Prices seem to vary widely.
  8. Buying a new radiator shortly for my 1966 Wildcat coupe. Ton of choices out there, standard or aluminum, number of rows etc. Car is a 1966 running with a 65 401 engine and a TH 400 automatic. The car is an original AC car but I don't really plan on restoring the AC system, not saying I never would but I am leaning on eliminating it to cut all that weight anyway. The radiator currently in the car is not correct, seems to be a bit small but the car does not run hot using it. It needs replacement though, buildup inside etc. Need to know what the original size radiator was when it was built back in 66? I am thinking about 28" length seems about right? Number of rows don't know? Is it worth a switch to an aluminum unit? Or should I go the conventional route? Not many good radiator shops around any more, seems to be a lost art to get one rebuilt. Lots available on the internet, Ebay etc but I want to make the best choice. Thought maybe someone out there making the same choice had good results with a particular brand or style radiator. Never had any experienced with an aluminum radiator in one of my old cars but I would not dismiss the thought of buying one. Thoughts anyone?
  9. I have for sale an NOS quality 1966 Ford Thunderbird grill (both halves bolted together) with an absolutely mint beautiful T-Bird grill emblem attached. Grill is as near to brand new as a part of that age can be. Pot metal cheese grater grill metal is not pitted, chrome shines brilliant. The aqua blue color in the T-Bird emblem mounted on the grill is absolutely beautiful! Grill is perfectly straight no bends, cracks or broken mounting tabs. This is basically a brand new grill! The grill was stored inside it's entire life and may never have even been actually mounted on a car. If it was it was, only for a very limited time. There may be some incidental marks in the chrome from storage over the years but this grill is in remarkable condition. Asking $250 + shipping based on final destination.
  10. 1966 Buick Wildcat 2 door coupe parting out

    I am in need of a front bumper, could use a rear bumper too if nice. I have an Arctic white 66 Wildcat 2 door coupe with a tweaked bumper (took a lower hit) some time in it's life. Mike
  11. Looking for a driver quality grill for a 1977 Plymouth Volare. Need not be perfect, but presentable. I just bought a solid driver quality slant 6 powered Plymouth Volare coupe and the grill center is all broken up. Anyone got one? Sort of off the beaten path but the car was cheap and is really pretty solid. I am a GM guy and just picked this up so I have no parts lying around. Mike
  12. Bought a solid rust free silver 1996 Riviera that came out of Florida. Body, floors and frame looked new. Had a blown SC 3800 series 2 engine. The engine block cracked because the people who drove it up here from Florida kept adding water to it during one of our brutal Pennsylvania winters instead of fixing a water pump leak. Bought it for $500 and replaced the engine with the exact engine. Shook it down, ran great and my son in law wanted it so I gave it to him for what I had in it. Car ran great initially but a problem developed and under load up a steep grade the car would miss fire and have no power then straighten out and run ok. Check engine light would flash. Found cracks in the heads and replaced them with a nice rebuilt set inexpensively. Car then back into service all went well. Began to throw a misfire code cylinder 3 and when we pulled the plug it was starting to burn on the tip like with the previous heads. Changed mas air sensor, new plug put in car was running great again. I shook it down and told my daughter to take it home, about a 45 min trip. I ran it hard and it seemed great. She called me in route and said the car had done the same thing. So where to go from here? What else would cause the lean condition needed to ruin plug tips and cause misfire? Car now running worse and I am back to square one. HELP!
  13. Buick 300 Engine

    I bought a 300 - 2bbl engine (I believe 1967) as a sort of insurance policy for a 65 Buick LeSabre convertible I have since sold. I now no longer need it. The engine was said to be in running condition when it was pulled in favor of a 455 and TH400. The story goes like this....I purchased it locally 2 years ago off Craigslist from a guy who obtained it from the original owner that longer needed it. The motor was said to have approximately 25,000 miles on it after a rebuild ( I cannot confirm that) and although I never heard it run had every reason to believe the story when I purchased it. Engine looks really clean under the valve covers, comes with fan, manifolds, flywheel, fuel pump and distributor. It has been stored on an engine hoist inside a friends heated commercial garage since I purchased it. It is pictured as it sits. I want the buyer it see it as it is. I am selling it as-is-where-is for exactly what I paid for it. This stuff is getting harder to find any more. I am asking $350 for it. Live in NE Pennsylvania, it can be put right in the bed of the buyers pickup or trailer at the garage where it is stored. Mike
  14. Beautiful gauge pod for a 1958 Chrysler gauge pod. Looks great, face, chrome and needles all look great. It was stored inside and it shows. This is a quality used part for sure. I wish I could find parts like this for my old cars! $50 + shipping. Mike
  15. Looking for confirmation on this gauge pod I found. Looks to be 1957 or maybe 1958 Chrysler 300 C or D or possibly New Yorker. It is in immaculate original condition. Chrome is beautiful for the age. It looks like plug and play condition. I came across it purely by accident. Somebody has got to need this part. Where the heck do you find this stuff any more?