mpneroz

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About mpneroz

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  1. There were some very good radiator shops in my area when I was younger. Those guys were really good. They closed, stopped rebuilding for the most part or just became a place to go to get a new radiator installed. When you look on line, the curse is " also fits whatever model" and they seem to be one size fits all and that is really true. Prices seem to vary widely.
  2. Buying a new radiator shortly for my 1966 Wildcat coupe. Ton of choices out there, standard or aluminum, number of rows etc. Car is a 1966 running with a 65 401 engine and a TH 400 automatic. The car is an original AC car but I don't really plan on restoring the AC system, not saying I never would but I am leaning on eliminating it to cut all that weight anyway. The radiator currently in the car is not correct, seems to be a bit small but the car does not run hot using it. It needs replacement though, buildup inside etc. Need to know what the original size radiator was when it was built back in 66? I am thinking about 28" length seems about right? Number of rows don't know? Is it worth a switch to an aluminum unit? Or should I go the conventional route? Not many good radiator shops around any more, seems to be a lost art to get one rebuilt. Lots available on the internet, Ebay etc but I want to make the best choice. Thought maybe someone out there making the same choice had good results with a particular brand or style radiator. Never had any experienced with an aluminum radiator in one of my old cars but I would not dismiss the thought of buying one. Thoughts anyone?
  3. I have for sale an NOS quality 1966 Ford Thunderbird grill (both halves bolted together) with an absolutely mint beautiful T-Bird grill emblem attached. Grill is as near to brand new as a part of that age can be. Pot metal cheese grater grill metal is not pitted, chrome shines brilliant. The aqua blue color in the T-Bird emblem mounted on the grill is absolutely beautiful! Grill is perfectly straight no bends, cracks or broken mounting tabs. This is basically a brand new grill! The grill was stored inside it's entire life and may never have even been actually mounted on a car. If it was it was, only for a very limited time. There may be some incidental marks in the chrome from storage over the years but this grill is in remarkable condition. Asking $250 + shipping based on final destination.
  4. I am in need of a front bumper, could use a rear bumper too if nice. I have an Arctic white 66 Wildcat 2 door coupe with a tweaked bumper (took a lower hit) some time in it's life. Mike
  5. Looking for a driver quality grill for a 1977 Plymouth Volare. Need not be perfect, but presentable. I just bought a solid driver quality slant 6 powered Plymouth Volare coupe and the grill center is all broken up. Anyone got one? Sort of off the beaten path but the car was cheap and is really pretty solid. I am a GM guy and just picked this up so I have no parts lying around. Mike
  6. Bought a solid rust free silver 1996 Riviera that came out of Florida. Body, floors and frame looked new. Had a blown SC 3800 series 2 engine. The engine block cracked because the people who drove it up here from Florida kept adding water to it during one of our brutal Pennsylvania winters instead of fixing a water pump leak. Bought it for $500 and replaced the engine with the exact engine. Shook it down, ran great and my son in law wanted it so I gave it to him for what I had in it. Car ran great initially but a problem developed and under load up a steep grade the car would miss fire and have no power then straighten out and run ok. Check engine light would flash. Found cracks in the heads and replaced them with a nice rebuilt set inexpensively. Car then back into service all went well. Began to throw a misfire code cylinder 3 and when we pulled the plug it was starting to burn on the tip like with the previous heads. Changed mas air sensor, new plug put in car was running great again. I shook it down and told my daughter to take it home, about a 45 min trip. I ran it hard and it seemed great. She called me in route and said the car had done the same thing. So where to go from here? What else would cause the lean condition needed to ruin plug tips and cause misfire? Car now running worse and I am back to square one. HELP!
  7. I bought a 300 - 2bbl engine (I believe 1967) as a sort of insurance policy for a 65 Buick LeSabre convertible I have since sold. I now no longer need it. The engine was said to be in running condition when it was pulled in favor of a 455 and TH400. The story goes like this....I purchased it locally 2 years ago off Craigslist from a guy who obtained it from the original owner that longer needed it. The motor was said to have approximately 25,000 miles on it after a rebuild ( I cannot confirm that) and although I never heard it run had every reason to believe the story when I purchased it. Engine looks really clean under the valve covers, comes with fan, manifolds, flywheel, fuel pump and distributor. It has been stored on an engine hoist inside a friends heated commercial garage since I purchased it. It is pictured as it sits. I want the buyer it see it as it is. I am selling it as-is-where-is for exactly what I paid for it. This stuff is getting harder to find any more. I am asking $350 for it. Live in NE Pennsylvania, it can be put right in the bed of the buyers pickup or trailer at the garage where it is stored. Mike
  8. Beautiful gauge pod for a 1958 Chrysler gauge pod. Looks great, face, chrome and needles all look great. It was stored inside and it shows. This is a quality used part for sure. I wish I could find parts like this for my old cars! $50 + shipping. Mike
  9. Looking for confirmation on this gauge pod I found. Looks to be 1957 or maybe 1958 Chrysler 300 C or D or possibly New Yorker. It is in immaculate original condition. Chrome is beautiful for the age. It looks like plug and play condition. I came across it purely by accident. Somebody has got to need this part. Where the heck do you find this stuff any more?
  10. Maybe 1957 or 1958 Chrysler 300 or maybe New Yorker?
  11. Guys, I found this beautiful pod that includes oil pressure, fuel, amps and temp gauges! I am a 60's car guy and this is before what I collect. The chrome, gauge face, graphics, orange needles are all in awesome condition. Needles move freely. There is a wood grain circle in the middle. It was mounted on a dash that is slanted. Has all 3 mounting studs and nuts. It is clean and looks like it would bolt in and work right as is. It was stored inside and the chrome bezel shows it! I believe it is probably early to mid 50's. Originally I thought it might be GM, maybe Cadillac? Not sure now? The back has no stamped part number, just the remains of red stamped on number that was smeared and I cannot read it. Somebody would kill for something this nice! I just have to figure out what???? Mike
  12. Anyone got a good one? Need a front bumper for my arctic white 1966 Wildcat coupe. Want to bring the car to the BCA Nationals but the only thing stopping me is a tweaked front bumper that takes away from the whole car. Mike
  13. Bought a 1996 Buick Riveria (Florida car no rust) for $250, needs engine work. Under side of the car looks better than my 2008 up here in Pennsylvania. Heads are bad. I don't mind putting some money is a nice solid rust free Riviera. What is the difference in sc heads vs non-sc heads. Is there a difference in heads between 1996 and 1998? I know 1995 Riviera had a smaller sc than the later ones. Does anybody have good set of heads or know of a source for reman heads at a reasonable price? I had a 1998 I ran for 220,000 miles and loved the hell out of it. I picked this up with the idea of driving it. Help would be appreciated. Going to the BCA nationals in Allentown if someone has a set to sell reasonable. Mike
  14. I solved my own problem. I pulled the metal portion of a 1967 Catalina dash top out on Saturday morning at my favorite local yard. It was nice and clean not rusted. I had acquired a 67 vinyl pad (the thin one) 2 years ago. I sprayed the Catalina metal section black, installed the black pad I had and slapped it in. The only issue was the vin tag is no longer visible because the notch in the pad is not there for a 67 like a 68. It really looks great and improved the worst part of my interior. That will complete the interior using my original seats and door panels that are nice and added a new headliner and rug set. I just saw a repaired 67 dash on Ebay that isn't as nice and the seller was asking $350 + $150 shipping for the same thing. Total investment was a little time and about $80 cash.
  15. Really? Somebody has to have a good one somewhere?