Tinindian

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Everything posted by Tinindian

  1. Tinindian

    Car Logo Quiz...

    Chery reminds me of our old Chinese Laundry man trying to say Chevrolet. His son bought a new one in 1948.
  2. Tinindian

    Car Logo Quiz...

    43 as well.
  3. Tinindian

    Need help to ID these Cars!

    A google search indicates that the Buick is a 29 by the shape of the rad shell and the rectangular emblem on the fender tie bar.
  4. Tinindian

    1927-1928 ? Erskine parts for sale

    Picture 2 on post #5 has a nice looking "Mechanics U-joint".
  5. Tinindian

    Need help to ID these Cars!

    The left picture is a Buick but I am not sure of the model or year.
  6. Tinindian

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    Ir thermometer is a wonderful investment. I wish I had bought one years ago.
  7. Tinindian

    Modern Fluids for Early 20's Buick's??

    As usual Mark Shaw is succinct and concise. I don't believe anyone could go wrong following his advice. There have been tens of thousands of words on car forums about antifreeze and lubricants. Some was statistical, some accurate, some totally inaccurate and some just like "old wives tales". Follow Mark's advice and enjoy your 1922 Model 35 Touring for many years and miles.
  8. Tinindian

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    This is the only way to clean the water jacket out. Sixty years ago if a straight eight Buick came in to the dealership where I worked it was an automatic core plug replacement with mechanical removal of the crud. If the owner wouldn't let us do that he was told to take his overheating problem somewhere else. We had pails of rust, scales and crud to dispose of and never had a come back.
  9. Tinindian

    Why? Why?

    It reads as if it were written by an eight year old.
  10. Tinindian

    Suchion Cup marks and Haze on New Windshield

    As a fourty-two year funeral director, I can tell you, you really don't want to see the inside of your lungs.
  11. Tinindian

    1934 Dodge

    I can't answer your question about a pin but I think a "hand impact driver" would be the tool to loosen the screw.
  12. Tinindian

    Suchion Cup marks and Haze on New Windshield

    Never had a problem with off-gassing in the old days when the windows were open most of the time. Now cars are closed/sealed up like our homes (lots of off-gassing there).
  13. Tinindian

    '30 right front fender wanted

    Series 6-29A
  14. Tinindian

    Water pump packing

    Assuming you have the pump off the engine of your Pontiac press the shaft out of the impeller and then pull the shaft through the front bushing. I have never broken an impeller but am told that they are fragile. I have never broken an impeller but am told that they are fragile.
  15. Tinindian

    29 Erskine Spark Advance Lever

    I was through Manor several times in the 60's driving my Grandfathers Regina built Pontiac going from Melita Manitoba to Moose Jaw. I didn't know it then but my future wife's grandparents had moved to Forget, Northwest Territories, from Quebec in the 1890's. My Grandfather lived in Moosomin, North West Territories in the 1880's, worked in a livery stable and drove people all over what was to become southeastern Saskatchewan in 1905. Good luck with your restoration. Hope you have many years of fun with your Great-Grandfathers car.
  16. Tinindian

    1932 Chevy clutch squeeling question. Please help!

    Is the 32 Chevrolet release bearing the carbon block type? That arrow is to lube the U-joint.
  17. Tinindian

    1932 Chevrolet Confederate clutch question??

    I never install any NOS bearing without cleaning it thoroughly and re lubing it, even if it means removing and replacing a seal.
  18. Tinindian

    From the HAMB - maybe a Chevrolet?

    I stand corrected. Thank you Curti.
  19. Tinindian

    From the HAMB - maybe a Chevrolet?

    29 Chev, the only year with the full apron between the frame horns. Horns, rad shell and radiator not original.
  20. Tinindian

    Pre War Cars - how fast is fast?

    My Pontiac cut out occasionaly when I first stated driving it, was caused by corroded connections at the ammeter. Shudder could be castor, camber or a broken spring leaf. Even with a high rear end ratio you should be able to drive 55 fairly easily without the cutting out and shudder.
  21. Tinindian

    Trying to Align Doors in 1928 Pontiac

    Bob's Automobilia has the dovetail and wedge parts for Buicks. I believe they may work for you. Not a straight year for year but some Buick body pieces and weatherstrips from a year or two earlier were the same as my Pontiac.
  22. Tight, like 150 foot pounds of torque. Any looseness will cause wear on the axle, keyways and key.
  23. Tinindian

    Pre War Cars - how fast is fast?

    I started driving my Grandfather's 99,000 mile car in 1959. He never drove it over 45mph. On reading the operators manual I noticed that the economizer valve in the carb cut out at 55 mph. I reasoned then that it was okay to drive at least that fast. I have consistently driven it at 50-55 on highways and 55-60 on the TCH and your interstates. In 500,000 miles the engine has been overhauled twice. Both times the babbitt was cracking more than worn (never had removed shims). He had always used good oil (detergent when it became available) but 330 or 40wt. Both times when I rebuilt the engine I started out with 10wt oil and after 50,000 or so changed to 20wt. The visible results when opening the engine were the same. I don't know what conclusions one can draw from this except that Pontiac engines were stronger than we thought. In 1962 I got to drive a brand new (26 miles on the odometer) 1930 Pontiac. It had been stored by the dealership when new). The man who bought it asked me to teach him how to drive it. That car was just as nice shifting and on the highway as a brand new 1962 was. There was a fantastic difference between it and my 100,000+ mile Pontiac. I imagine there would be the same difference or even more difference since it had never been beat up on 30's and 40's roads.
  24. Tinindian

    Trying to Align Doors in 1928 Pontiac

    Picture one looks as if the top of the door is back from the edge of the "A" pillar. As Rob asked is the pillar straight. Looking at the second picture. When properly adjusted the dovetail should be exactly in the middle of the wedge. That way the rubber and spring action steadies the vertical movement as you drive over an undulating surface. I hope you have the parts to rebuild your dovetails. If you look at the bottom of the firewall where it joins the cowl on the engine side. Is it cracked, has it been reinforced. The early Pontiacs were notorious for breaking at this spot. It was caused by the frame flexing ahead of the motor mount. The weakest spot broke, usually the sheet metal or sometimes one or all of the three joints in the wood of the "A" pillar. The fix that was implemented sometime in Series 6-28 production was to use a longer bolt on the front body mount position. This allowed for a heavy washer and a very heavy spring to be placed below the frame thus allowing the front of the body to separate from the frame about 1/4 inch when the frame was racked by a pothole, curb or whatever. Just shimming the hinges and/or forcing the door to fit the opening will not fix your problem. With lots of patience you will have good luck.
  25. Tinindian

    Car Identity and Year of Manufacture

    1926 Nash